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Basically there's a cast adaptor housing and a Morse cone shaft end. You fit a coupling cap with internal splines on it and it mates to a splined tube arranged on the engine side. But as I said there are plenty Mack pumps with different settings and I know people tried using a pump from a different engine model (power, year) and got wrong operation. Also for example a few engines used both Ambac and Bosch pumps. And you could swap one with the other having the correct attachments. But Ambac pump sets with 19 degree initial timing angle and Bosch with 23. For which reason? I don't know. As I said there are much more nuances than you would like to explore swapping those pumps. -
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By mechohaulic · Posted
drove by PLunske's yesterday . too much traffic to slow down. that Diamond T has different cab then Waterbury Mack's T wrecker. don't think I would have stood that T on it's rear axle if Waterbury had a tandem not single axle T wrecker when I attempted to hook a DM600 roll off and move !LOL -
We just moved to a new place in October and it’s not set up for any type of solid fuel heating appliances yet. Well it is but I don’t trust the chimneys. All I have right now is a propane forced air furnace. And I never got around to installing a 30A receptacle to backfeed the main panel with. 100% reliant on electric utility to stay warm at this point. I had a power outage last night on probably the harshest night yet this winter. Amazing how that happens. I’m surrounded by Amish so the transformer out on the pole is solely for my house. It “blew” at about 8:30 or 9:00. I called it in and honestly didn’t think they would come out until the morning since the weather was dangerous and my house was the only one affected. I couldn’t believe it but 25 minutes later this guy shows up by himself. Sets up on a 45mph state highway. No traffic control. 4” of snow on the road. 40mph wind. 9 degree temp and goes up and changes a fuse I think he said. Plus he was laying in the snow under his truck to get the frozen outrigger sensors to work to allow his bucket to go up. If this guy wasn’t making $250/hr he wasn’t getting paid enough. I was in awe… -
Ok, I have a few points to mention. I looked over the photo's you posted. The engine in the truck is the most probably not original but later series Maxidyne 237 HP (ETAZ-675 or so, other guys will correct me). My guess is based on presence of the water/oil heat excheanger (cooler) at the left side. B's had turbo engines too but without it. Air intake pipe from the air filter to the turbo looks custom (home)-made. Also someone converted original air operated wiper drive with electric motor. Both facts may be even seen positive. At least the engine is more powerful but very similar to the original ENDT by the look so I wouldn't sorry about the fact. If the truck had 9-speed tranny with two sticks I'm pretty sure you will have quite enough "fun" shifting it. At least in the beginning. The 2nd stick is a splitter. So you start in 2nd low than shift to 2nd high (with that 2nd stick) than you have to get 3rd low so... you shift both main from 2nd to 3rd and the compound from hi to lo. At the same time and without clutch! I may be a bit extra emotional on this since the most American guys who drive a vintage truck count that action as simple as apples. But an avarage European person who's skilled to drive a car with synchronized mechanical box finds himself in a total nightmare when tries shifting that unit. I don't want to spread too extensive description but just mention one more fact. 5th main (the top gear) is right front from you. Not right rear as in a car. So you shift the main stick left front-left rear- right REAR and than right front. That's just an addition to the no-clutch (or double clutch) shifting using two sticks. Ok, further on. I would like to see the housing of your transmission from under the truck. And the front axle beam too. Since I have an interesting guess. At least the axle beam looks familiar to me by what I can see on the front truck's picture. And that's not an axle typical for a B-model. Of one more interesting point is the rear axle ratio. It determines how fast you can go with the truck (using particular transmission and the drive wheels size for sure). If you look at the differential housing of each rear axle at the front area to the right of the propeller shaft flange you could see two data tags (plates) attached with rivets. Clean out the lover ones (but sure better both of them). There's a script "RATIO" on the lower plates and than 3 digits (6,34 or 7,33 or so) are stamped in. My bet you will find 9.02 there. But I may be wrong. Also your truck has cool looking heavy wheel hubs for 20" tube type tyres. The hubs are not typical for North American market, my guess they were a special order for a certain East customer. The rims are split rims made as 3 portions. They must be reliable enough to drive safe if mounted right. Many people may say they're bad thing and nobody wants to work with them for tyre installation. But on my mind they're suitable for self service and are definitely a nice sample of the older days engeneering. So I would keet them if that was my truck. Sure it's yours so you're up to the choice. The tyres on the FR axle look like made in Russia 12.00R20 or 11.00R20.
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By mechohaulic · Posted
Yes Sir I did notice that. I have realized that in many instances my mind is failing; to see your posted engine pictures and others posted here . still brings a positive smile and some great engine building memories to this ole man. THANKS every one. there is an auction I found today on auction zip having unbelievable Mack memorabilia ; I didn't want to post it if possibly some one here has a bid on it . now lets not go off topic. -
Hey Mech? Can you see that the END piston is a pencil holder? I have one on my desk at work too.
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- I double sticked and old Mack to feed a stone crusher in 12 and 14 hour shifts six days a week all summer to pay for my chemistry degree.· 0 replies
- Because I wanted to sleep for 1 min and 26 seconds each trip out of the quarry at the crusher's vibratory dump box at the top the quarry during those 12 hour shifts, I bulled the old MACK up long 20 degree and sometimes steeper grades.
- THAT meant that I split each gear 1, 2, 3 after coming out of boggy low.
- All I did was rev to the right engine note, reach my left arm down through the steering wheel to hold the curve I was on or hold the truck's path steady; slip out of 1st, throw the 2nd stick high into low and slip into 2nd gear... rev to the right engine pitch, slip to high.
- Then when it was time, reach through the wheel again, slip high to low and 2nd to 3rd {if I correctly remember 60 years ago}.
- The Igneous rocks were too heavy and the grade too steep for me to ever get into 3rd high.
- The crusher team were the mechanics for everything and had replaced the old Mack's tranny gears because they had been ground too much. - - They later told me they didn't believe me when I told them I slipped all my shifts because the gears showed no wear.
- Except for start and stop; Not once did I use the clutch because that made my leg ache too much after an hour or so.
- I slipped all my standard 4 speed shift vehicles all my life...just to be with the music of the engine and car or truck.
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- I hardly ever change disc pads or brake shoes because I always slipped my gears downshifting...· 0 replies
_ I learned that because the synchro rings got shot on my 1968 Volvo 122S 2-Door 4-Speed with an electric overdrive because I stupidly speed shifted and ruined them. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-volvo-122s-17/
- [Note: That Volvo's original owner was a Canadian Submarine Captain who rallied it and that is why it had Volvo's unique electric overdrive.]
- {I clear coated over the bone white with Cadillac Firemist Green and painted the grills Black because they were dented...gosh it was stunning.}
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