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The Republicans have had to file a lawsuit to prohibit the U.S. Census Bureau from counting people who are in the U.S. illegally during the 2030 census. Why should they even have to do that? Doesn't it go without saying? Immigrant rights groups say “That unlawful request would distort representation for millions of Americans and shake the foundations of our representative democracy. What? The Republicans are only talking about illegal immigrants (not Americans) who shouldn't be on U.S. soil to begin with. The census would apply to legal immigrants.

I have a couple of questions about these compressors though since my one is in fact not completely assembled at the moment. 1st - what is the torque for the conn rod bolts? I measured it when loosened the rods in the new compressor but the bolts had something looking as a thread lock on the threads so unscrew could be harder than the specs. And should I use any Locktight or other thread lock compound there? I know that wouldn't hurt the deal but better to learn what is prescribed by the manufacturer. And the 2nd. I probably have count the matter but still have a little bit of doubts. I tied to figure out the way the connecting rods oriented. Sure marked all the parts and the old compressor had the rods with the markings (part#) to the drive end (up front). But that NOS one had one rod to the front and another to the rear. And I'm sure nobody opened it before me and the parts were std which meant factory assembly. Also pistons had no arrows pointing any direction for the fittment. So overall it looked like Bendix saw no matter on which way to install pistons and rods. I put them as they were in my original compressor - same way up front. But if anybody may confirm or argue my guess I would like to hear the suggestions.

It turned out a bit more attractive about its look when it had before the rebuild. The mechanical part was not perfect too. Cylinders had rusty caves but what seemed more troubleful was one of the connecting rods having cap bolt holes modyfied (drilled through for a bolt with nut). I could live with a repaired rod but it also had a small crack near the repair. What I definitely didn't want was a broken rod in a compressor somewhere in a middle of a highway. Tried to locate an alu conn rod for Tu-Flo 700 but had almost no luck. Checked out other possibilities and found a NOS compressor locally. Actually that was 700 km from my place but at least in the same country. The compressor had different fittment being a Cummins or Detroit version so I couldn't use it complete nor all of its parts. Good thing the block was found the same so I took it together with pistons and rods avoiding the need of boring the cylinders. Crankshaft was shorter than needed at the drive end so I had to use the original one. Micro caliper shoved minimal to zero wear and that was good. But the size was the 1st repair already so I bought new bearing shells for it. That NOS one was std, of no use there. I also bought a PAI repair set but mostly for gaskets.

Glad you noticed the wrong seal when you did wow that could a been real bad

The original plan was for the thread to be called "A fancy engine" since I was going to start assembly of a E6 for the R-model. But along figuring on how to free up a big table in the shop I resolved to put together the compressor first since its painted components were taking place on the table for a long while.

Nice progress, bud. Thanks for the post.

Since my wife is in sunny Florida until Friday I thought now would be a good time to cook a pot of beans🤔 They're not really one of her favorite foods anyway. I think they've been here since about...a long time ago. They're not quite done yet, but they're tasting good.

see if the ledgend is still on the inside of the fuse box cover. it will show you the trailer circuits. I didnt realize this was a granite, thought it was older.

I have an '07 Mack CV713 that I'm trying to add trailer wiring to. I've seen other posts saying there's a buss bar behind the coolant tank; there isn't one on my truck. Any recommendations?

the wear ring seal has a : thinner felt lip with standard metal housing OR the metal housing thinner with same felt can't recall. point is the seal allows for the wearing taking space. which is why the crank turned hard as it did with wrong seal combo. positive note :heck of a situation if it was thought to be OK just needs to wear in after clutch /transmission installed.

now that deserves a full page of likes!!

I don't think it as "so much money blown" ::: more like money has been spent for an investment AND the knowledge gained by hands on is considered PRICELESS!!!

I always put a "value"on the enjoyment I get restoreing vehicles.You will always get a good chunk of the money back if you had to sell them for some reason.I work with a guy who thinks nothing of blowing 4/5 grand at a horse race meeting...thats his thing. Great work on that engine.......Im following closely Paul

Wow Tom. We just rocketed up to 41* with 2"-4" of snow on the way tonight. .....Hippy