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Its backwards. Grease needs to leave the bushing bores through the seals. So the open, or grease side faces the area in-between the bores. (Toward the axle beam) This allows the grease to leave and push dirt out..

Also, do these seals need to go in the other direction? This is how my old ones were in but after reading an old thread on here it sounds like maybe the lips needs to go towards axle?

I hope I still have another good 10 years in me. I went looking for an older animal to take care of, Puppies often get adopted 1st (but don't always get to stay in that home😒). 5 years old was on the younger side.

That's the same valve body I have as your's and HarryS'. I'll have to look through my paperwork, but I made copies of the installation and plumbing routing from a maintenance manual I borrowed to install it. I'm going off memory, I recall it did say Garrison. As for the Ross unit, like Sheppard, that was a power steering box rather than an add-on assist unit. I've seen some that have a Ross Power Steering logo horn button on various make trucks. I know there's some casting numbers and IN/OUT markings on it, maybe a part or assembly number, but I don't recall seeing Garrison or an ID tag on the valve body. My pump was a Vickers unit I sent out for overhaul that had an integral reservoir bolted on top of the pump. I just went through my photo archives and I took copies of the plumbing from what looks like a Mack maintenance manual. I have a pic of the rebuilt and installed pump. The only picture I have of the valve body was from the donor truck, covered in grease and dirt. But, that picture also shows the steering are limit stops that I grabbed and installed, too. I do have a picture of it hanging up after I painted it.

the grease board was a common tool back in the day. sometimes a P I A but better then dismounting the tires , pulling hub /drum assembly with floor jack. Luckly a customer having large fleet bought an OTC wheel dolly jack. I borrowed it countless times. not only faster but less seals got damaged on reinstall. accurate control when sliding wheel assy back on axle. I eventually acquired one (walker); think that went in auction also😞

carefully remove o-ring , clean the inner ring groove . can find another new o-ring better.; if not apply some RTV in o-ring groove reinstall the o ring. it's not a high pressure area.

beautiful looking . only good thing about this rent is contract states no animals. closing in on 75 ; can't run with a puppy; won't go through the events of putting down a senior . shelters have some of the most amazing animals

Yes, if the inner ring is free from damage. Be sure to put the dowel in the hole in the spindle.

I just bought seal. As long as the sealing surface is good and the o-ring is good should seal up fine.

It must be pretty big difference Even C models as I may call them, CH, CHR and so on used the R model chassis in Australia There has gotta be something special about the R model chassis I'm gunna say, without looking it up that Mack Australia stopped using the R model chassis maybe 10 - 15 years ago Paul

Another Mack question. Never seen a setup with this extra race either. Looks like I can buy just the seal quite a bit cheaper than the set that comes with both. Does that race with the roll pin need replaced with the seal or can it be reused?

Spoke hubs are all inboard drums, they have to be!

Harry’s,that the exact as what I have.What I need is the threaded nut on the end,it has bad threads.I can use it but would like to have a better one.

I thought the valve looked like a Garrison also. Here is a picture of the Garrison I took off the B-61.

His parents are Cheryl and Wayne, that's about all I know. If I go, which I probably will, I'm not going to the actual wedding. I'm going to stay at the motel with the dogs. We were at Cheryl and Wayne's when Roman got lost in the woods that time. Their other son was staying with the dogs while we went out to Sam the Clam's, one of Zina's favorite restaurants. Roman got out the door and took off. I know he was looking for me. We got a call at the restaurant letting us know he was lost and we left to go look for him. Everybody in the neighborhood was looking. When he finally came out of the woods I told him I wouldn't leave him alone like that again. He was at our wedding at the Keystone Antique Truck and Tractor Museum. He's the one on the end, standing beside Mark (vision386 on BMT).

I didn't notice any of that, and I've watched it 5 or 6 times. I'd better go back and watch it some more😆

Koda, joined our family in Jan at almost 5 years old. Lost my last one in November, and I need some time to grieve before opening my heart to another.

So when you put the pin up in the eye. Set a bottle jack under it and push up. Put a little lift on it axle then drive down on the axle beam with a sledge hammer. This will seat the pin. Then remove the jack , pack the thrust bearing with grease, and install it with the nut. Tighten the nut all the way, then back it to the next slot for the cotter pin. This should allow for smooth hand operation of the knuckle.

is there a procedure on how far to screw that bottom cap in? I would assume you need to go far enough to get the thrust bearing to contact the kingpin but how far past that?

Thank for replies. Good point on centering. If I convert I'd prefer spoke hubs as well.

Thats exactly like my king pin removal tool, old king pin with a piece of flat bar welded to it.🤣 terry

have placed two foams back to back on injector installs also.

I liked to do these in frame leaving the spindle connected to the tie ends saves the customer Time!

how true a statement; shepherd/ huskie rescue dog. he came home to us at 8 weeks ;then went Home after 16 1/2 yrs of being my best ever Friend. had a portrait of him painted which has the same effect when I look at it; and he's been gone a number of yrs now.

Yup ! You have to have been where he was to learn this !Like I mentioned earlier on a Robert bosch they used and oring to keep shit out somewhat better than the foam on the ambc set up!