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Got ahold of John. What a wealth of knowledge and a great guy to talk to. He does have a gasket set for my 866!

I take this to mean he has had the thing all the way down. It is a known wear point on the Shepard box. I could re-seal once, and get some life out of the box (many years) but after that the shaft needs machine work. Any of the two digit boxes and the 392 series/type are old enough that shaft wear is likely.

I still havent seen where he removed the whole seal assemblies. The inner and outer seal with the snap rings that at the flat spring steel type that you remove with a pocket screwdriver. the top dirt seal is not for high pressure. Unless I missed something in the story. If so.. forgive me.

dry ice works wonders

While I was looking at that old rig, I was thinking the guy driving those things at that time. We’re probably thinking that was the best they were going to get compared to horses. Thanks for that.

Here is a better explanation as to why speedi seal will not work in this application. Any oil seal, be it a rear main or a wheel seal, is vented to case pressure on the oil side. In a gear box or a rear axle that will be atmospheric, in a crankcase, it may be a few inches of Hg above atmospheric. Take the vent out of a trans or rear axle and put an air fitting in there and connect to 100 psi, would you expect no oil leak? most would say no, it would leak, now raise that pressure 20 fold! That is what the high pressure shaft seal on a Shepard box has to hold back. Stretching the seal a few thousandths over a speedi sleeve will damage it.

the 1/2=2/3 method worked . far as the whack rest of the way ??; liner in 1/2 way spray WD40 or equivalent in counter bore then with clean 2X4 (and shoes) stand on top of block and body weight should push liner down. that is if the block still in frame and secured. no jumping/whacking liners. clean rag on top 2X$ to catch WD40 spray. liners have shims under them tad more caution needed

Speedi sleeves increase the diameter of the shaft by a few thousandths, not an issue for wheel seals and the like but a big issue for seals that have to hold back 2000 psi. It has been a long time since I did a Shepard box, so I don't remember exactly how the seal is. Last box I had to send off for a input shaft repair IIRC it was $1200. Input shaft seal area and pitman shaft bushings are really the only thing that goes wrong on those boxes. There is a fitting on the side that you can pump grease in between the high pressure and dirt seal, to keep grit out of the high pressure seal area, if this is done regularly it helps keep the high pressure seal in good shape. The grease forces any dirt up and out. Just one pump every oil change is all it takes.

back a" few "years ago while at Mack I installed at least 8-10 osculators on Blakeslee massive DM's. don't recall exactly but they may have been a modern day Apgar. two lock pins rear of deck similar. not sure of the locking slot on turn table.

I still don’t know why the sleeve didn’t work and I was also surprised that you were able to get one

Good luck mine went right in with chunk of wood and light taps with a hammer after dropping in around 2/3 the way

Dammit Man... i wish i still had my extra parts. I sent them back with the engine i built. I dont have the part numbers

Well at my age I’m worried about dumping all this dough into this thing and croak before I get to enjoy finished product… Bob

Personally I would grab that cab … you can always do modifications if necessary good luck … good replacement cabs are very hard to find …bob

lol excellent!!!!

With the Shepard box the input seal is a high pressure seal, a speedy sleeve will not work at those pressures, as you found.

Kit doesn't have front seal either. 🤦 WTF good is a "kit" if it leaves out all the important parts??

Right machine work presumes sharpness and accuracy with tolerances. Your bad experience with that speedy sleeve is the most prbably due to its imperfect fit. Which could be predicted by its very imperfect shape and even the design. A thin wall tube pressed over unevenly worn surface doesn't seem supplying perfect surface for a seal to seat against and work well. I honestly am surprized at all this technology is count as "good" and so widely used. And at the same time I heard from multiple guys that they use such a sleeve and got leak back again soon. As less excentricity of the spinning surface is as less deformation of the seal's rubber is required to keep tightness. It's more actual for higher revs applications though so doesn't seem the matter of your issue. Possibly there was leak just between the sleeve and the shaft if you didn't apply sealer or epoxy in between. Or the sleeve's shape was so imperfect so the seal couldn't do its job at all. Or got worn or cut by a certain sharp edge. Maybe it's worth for you to just spend a couple of hours in the evening to read on the web basic principles of fabrication of shafts. Engeneering is way not always a rocket since. Most basic points are easy enough to figure just by common logic.

The wear ring + seal is a differnt part number than without the ring. Hope the Mack parts guy gets the right one. I think the number is in the KSA&A book.

Thanks. It is a Shepard gear. I really don’t know if the machine shop in my area could do it just right. I know they cut down shafts for tractors but I felt more at ease getting the reman. I have had other parts made but for some reason my gut said go reman.

Thank you. I was hesitant to weld then cut down the shaft because I thought it may weaken it. I thought by putting the wear sleeve over the worn area and a new seal would do the same as cutting shaft down and putting a sleeve but I have no experience doing machine work.

I think with shipping both ways, they want the core back(1200 core deposit), it will be about 2700. It is supposed to be a Sheppard. The salesman said it was a genuine Mack reman.

Dog Pound !

I've done this several times and I believe 73-10 Ohms should be correct for the sender. A quick google search says that's the range for the Stewart-Warner fuel gauge sender to make the gauge work. The other range is 240-30 Ohms. The Stewart-Warner Technical sight says 73-10 for the 82342 gauge unit. Now you just need to get the right length sender for the tank. They all come with some adjustment to calibrate the sender to the tank.