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Another way to look at it that may help: If you had a "normal" truck and wanted to see why the Cummins fuel solenoid wasn't working and what to check to see if there was power there with the key on, you would clip one end of the test light to either the frame or engine block and use the pointy end to the stud with the wire from the ignition switch, and if the light lit, you would know you had power to the solenoid. Nothing is different when the truck is positive ground, you hook the test light up exactly the same and the results you see are exactly those of a "normal" truck.

Tks

yes, just different terms. It refers to the the wire that is carrying the current when one side of the circuit is grounded to the frame or surrounding metal. Look at it this way: You could run two wires from the battery (positive and negative) to every device and the surrounding metal could be "neutral" neither + or -. Instead of doing that you tie one side (either positive or negative) to the metal and eliminate one of the two wires. Ships houses, many things use the two wire method so any metal you touch is not a part of the circuit. Low voltage vehicles they cut the wiring in 1/2 by using the body for one of the wires. It makes no difference from an operational stand point which polarity is tied to the chassie. Positive or negative, it makes no difference, Light bulbs, most motor, many gauges, will function without any changes. Volt meters and some designs of temp and fuel gauges, you have to have the + lead connect to "ground" and - lead goes to feed (hot, live, whatever term you use).

What’s the difference between hot and live,aren’t they the same?

I feel the same!! The only way I will skip Macungie is my health or $6 fuel..

And Tom I know you’re just blowing smoke, but this tread is for bullshitting… bob

Yes

Yes, more pictures the better! Thank you. .....Hippy

I have no real idea when the compressor went out it blow water out the recovery tank and truck ran hot cut off I clean the blow by filter which was full of oil moisture slug cleaned it out with carb cleaner and gas maybe that’s what was causing it to build up pressure to push the oil out of the little breather vent on the filter housing I’m not sure but I checked the filter again after it worked all day and no slug or moisture in the system now and no water in oil hopefully it continues to work til I can get some money together

Am I losing it ?? I looked back a page or few, and saw a different picture. Ive seen this one before... Still pretty good,..

Sorry your post got sidetracked there for a bit, I didn't realize I was steering it off course, that's a highly unusual occurrence here.

Ok, then anything that is ground, the frame, the steering column, etc will light the light. Anything that has "hot" power will not. Move the clip to the positive (ground side) and the light will light when the probe touches something that is "live". I think what is confusing you is you are so used to positive being "hot" and negative being "ground", but your system is the reverse.

Positive ground?

Geez, you're never satisfied, you're always looking for more power! You should just get a race car and be- oh, wait...never mind... 🤣

That looks like fantastic work, no doubt!

I am using the type pictured,and I had the clip on the negative post I have 2 12 volt batteries

And yes tom,,,,, i like the.chick man… bob

And Tom clearly the more braces you get on that shelter the stronger it will be

At that vintage polarity only matters with some gauges, alternator (but not generator) and any radio with transistors. What type of test light are you using? If you are using a non powered one like pictured, normally the end with the alligator clip gets hooked to ground (positive in your case) and the item being tested wire will supply the negative. Cummins solenoid doesn't care about polarity, it will work just fine on positive ground.

Well, I can’t see the smokestack from the driver seat, but it was definitely nothing coming out of the feed line before I started to change the lines. I wind up blowing air into the fuel tank and then breaking it loose right at the pump until it starts running out after the new lines waited a week and it still would not start, but I shut ether in it and that did it but clearly it’s still losing somewhere and the plunger leaks so bad that I don’t think it will work at all once I unwind the wingnut and pull it out. It’s just dripping with fuel.

I still need to find a home for his mac truck with FULL quarry hauling open trailer - I know the trailer is worth quite a bit - but I'm sure his truck has not been maintained in a few years - and would need someone knowledgeable in getting it running. any ideas on how to proceed with that sale? any advice is appreciated - thanks Dan (P.S. I can take pics the next time Im out by his house - if needed for an accurate solution to this) Thanks in advance - Dan

As many of you may be aware that I’m restoring my 1964 B87 tractor.This positive ground is giving me a run for the money.When I use my test light to check things I’m finding everything to be hot,even the steering column is hot.My truck has a Cummins motor it’s a dt335,which has a fuel shut off solinord, that doesn’t seems to be working right,the motor runs fine if I use the manual shutoff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Trying pumping the primer a few times or until it starts to bypass, before starting and you can then see if it is actually loosing prime or not So back to the basics here, you've only been working on the truck for a few weeks so refresh my brain encase I have lost something over those weeks Things to check When you go to start the truck, does smoke come out the exhaust immediately ? If it has smoke, you still have fuel If the smoke is not there, you have lost fuel in the pump If it fires and then farts and blows white smoke, you've lost prime Paul

Truck update: Power steering installed. I cut the original tube and steering shaft. I then made a bearing ring to weld onto the bottom of the cut tube. This supports the bottom of the shaft/column Mock up Steering shaft conversion. 3/4" key stock cut round to slip into shaft. Then welded and pinned. The bearing is a tight press fit but I also got two clamps for added support. I lined the square into the joint and drilled for 5/16" pin diameter(3/8"-16 bolt turned down on the end). The yoke has 3/8"-16 thread so I used a bolt with lock washer. Installed. Seems very solid. I may need to put an additional support clamp on the column if it seems to wiggly when driving. Time will tell The column is just barely aimed upward more then before but my hand doesn't contract the windshield. I can put a 1/4" spacer under the clamp to shim the column downward slightly if need be. Just glad it is basically done. Waiting on R model drag link to cut and paste with my B drag link to attach to spindle. Then once motor is in I can work on lines to pump. Hope to get motor installed next week. Fingers crossed.

Pam in a can. .....Hippy