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lol let’s face it holes and air starter tanks. Do not help you at all.

I had the CR tools, so that is what I went back with. Others had Stemco and that is what they used.

I am kinda anal about my wheel bearings. 1st I tighten them down to make sure they are seated and not cocked on the spindle (got fooled once in my youth, and never did again). The I want to be as close to zero preload as I can get without any runout. It isn't as easy as it sounds, when you tighten the lock nut it takes the slop out of the threads and makes the bearing a little tight if you set it to zero before you put the lock-nut on. I come across far too many that are too loose, too tight tends to destroy itself in short order.

The tank on my Marmon came from a CCX, it was a replacement for the original Roadway tank that developed a rust hole. I also have a Mack one from Mander's that is aluminum, that one I'm keeping!

Happy Birthday Joey.Hope you have a great day....Herself will have something nice cooked for you when you get home and if your a real good boy maybe a cold one or two in the fridge🤣

We are all lucky you took the trucks, otherwise we wouldn't of got a look in Paul

He did stop and have a glance, can't look at everything I guess Paul

i guess if its not full of chrome,,,,hes usually not interested,,bob

you got quite a bit of exposure,,,,i thought that was kinda rude he passed right by that DM without even as much as a comment

lol,,,,i remember growing up there,,,,seems it was always raining or snowing ,,,,,but thats why everything is green there and gorgeous

Of course, trying to find those check valves is probably like asking for a hubcaps on a 47 LaSalle lol

lol yeah I remember that I have not used mine in a long time. I just blow air into the fuel tank until it starts coming out at the pump. I’m pretty sure it’s the check valves in the pumper unit.

And I wasn't going to take the trucks because it was going to rain

HAPPY BURFDAY!!! (that's a Philly accent)

yes. the dowel location is not clocked to any certain degree. Many times after doing a zillion of these, when I back it off then set it to 50 lbft. the lock ring is lined right up to the dowel on one side or the other. it will be very close, half a hole off.. but dont sweat it if it is a full hole off anf you need to turn the inner nut to line it up. be sure that the dowel is in the ring hole so you dont jam the 2 nuts together and mash the dowel.. The wheel bearing will loosen up on it's own.

yep that makes complete sense. So essentially the wheel bearings will have a preload of 50 ftlb give or take dowl alignment?

My filter was dry and the lines are all new. Took some time to get it all up. My right thumb is still numb from pumping forever. I installed a new primer but it doesn't seem to work as well asy old bailing ring style pump so I swapped it and it worked quickly.

He is now dragging wagon… best wishes bud and hope for more bob

Thanks for that info Barry. We'll have to sure to sign up early and prepay to be sure to get our models early before they sell out.

I forgot to say, the outer axle nuts gets put on with a large breaker bar as tight as you can get it. I think it is about 550 lbft.

if you are asking about bearing clearence, what we always did was.... preload the bearing at 200 lbft, then back it off, and set it at 50 lbft. to engage the lock ring on the dowel will sometimes require you to turn the inner nut a little. you can flip the ring over to see which hole is closest with out disturbing the final torque too much. I always choose to back the nut off a small amount instead of going too tight. does this post make sense?

@Geoff Weeks yep I think your right that was my next step before anything. just wanted yo make sure I get what i needed for the wheel seal ordered. thank you sir!

awsome thanks again @Joey Mack that is what I assumed, but you know what happens when you start assuming things... Hub end end play when setting wheels bearing .001-.005 is kinda what I have always been taught. does that sound about right?

here is the tool. then you have to buy the correct installer head for the wear ring. It is designed to slide snuggly over the spindle , while keeping the wear ring straight and it doesnt mash the end of the wear ring too. the tool numbers are on the stemco seal box. Im not trying to make this a big deal, just showing you what is out there for proper tools.

Yes if it doesnt have a flange. When you install the wear ring, be sure to put a light bead of RTV on the leading edge so that it spreads the RTV as you drift the wear ring on. It stops when flush with the spindle. Then wipe off the excess RTV once its seated. The fancy tool does a perfect installation.