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I will take a good look tomorrow. If it’s connected directly to the air tanks does it need a pressure regulator or anything like that?

You might try the Pennsylvania number I used to be an owner operator and my cal T number is still registered and I haven’t been active since 1990 good luck

I started getting flu shots about 10 years ago and I wasn’t aware every time you get anything like that that knocks out your natural immune system so if you continue to get all of these off the wall shots pretty quicker, your body cannot fight off anything on its own anymore if I would’ve known that, I wouldn’t have started getting them

I think it was even later then the 70's, the July 25 1980 according to FMCSA website.

Does anybody know of anything about this truck or the company I ran the number dot and other number nothing

Just to let you know, I don’t know how long you’ve owned that thing but just about everything you look for you’re going to have this same issue very little new parts available just about everything is no longer available. You got to kind of hope somebody has some left over part of the reason I got out of old cars, especially Chevrolet if they got a little brand new part in a box they want fortune for it. but best of luck with your search.

Oh, by the way, I’m hoping I am wrong

Is the switch connected to a dump valve on the frame or the air tank?

I think it was about the late 1960's to 1970(??) when the US changed the ruling from 2 axles to all axles. Even the 2 axle trucks had a limiter for pressure on the steering axle. This was to prevent "lock up" on snowy / icy roads.

Sorry I didn't see that earlier. I don't think there is a way that would give the factory result, if it would work at all. For 12 volts, I would look at L/N and a SAE #1 mount. I don't know the cost, but you will have something that can be repaired/replaced easily. I am sticking with 6 volt so staying with the old Delco. I did try an new "aftermarket" armature and found them to work well.

Argentina is retiring their A4 Skyhawks after 60 years of service. WOW, what a well-engineered aircraft. https://www.twz.com/air/argentina-retires-its-a-4-fightinghawks

Tom, I had the ethanol gas blow the diaphragm out of the fuel pump on my Diamond T. I also use it in my 92 Caddy as it sits for long periods of time. NO gum up's!!!I have one station locally which sells the premium non-ethanol, with several who sell regular non-ethanol. Many of the motorcycles and boats in my area use it.

i can already see it.....within a few weeks,,,half the nation will have this,,my company was not on board with that,,,,,get the shot of get fired,,,,rediculous

Mine has 2 pairs of coils each with its own screws for the coils

I don't think that is correct? What does your old one look like? If needed I can open one of mine and see if my memory is any good.

No GW. All 4 are tied together. Only 1 hole

Do both the "ends" have holes in them to be screwed to the brush holders? If that is the case the center covered in black gets attached to the stud.

You are correct. It is a concern of mine. I do not know what the effect will be. I was also wondering how I would hook it up, do i run a jumper for the brushes? Or do I box it up and return it ?

Welcome to BMT.Your in the right place if you need knowledge on Macks.The knowledge shared with us when we started restoring our Cruiseliner was outstanding...Good luck with your truck... Paul

Joey, one thing I just noticed, It looks like coils are all in series? IIRC on mine there are two sets of coils, each had a "north and south " in series and the two groups are in parallel, so two coil ends at a brush holder. In your picture I only see one lead that connects to the stud and one end that ends at the brush holder. Either I am not seeing something, or those are different then what I have in the 4 starters of that type I have. It is possible my memory is faulty, but I remember it being different.

Yeah, your good... welcome to the Dog Park...

It shouldn't get hot, but it can. the surface area where the windings connect to the stud is small. Solder has worked for me, but if I was going to do it over, I would use silver solder. Absolutely necessary? no, my starters are proof of that. I just feel it is worth the effort. It will take future stiff nut threads (from)breaking the soft solder. Where he is putting in new windings, I'd go the extra mile.

Yes, there is a lot of knowledge here welcome aboard bud and good luck with it.. bob

Yes Paul , that is what I am looking to do. I have very good cables and terminals. My goal is reduce the heat from amp draw.. thanks bud....

That thing was probably the cats ass when it was invented compared to what they had to do before that thanks for that when I was a very young kid, they were working with equipment in my area that still had the cable shovels early 60s