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Happy Birthday Back in Black Pullin.. !! 🎂🥳

I purchased some turn signal and marker lights for my B43. Marker lights were all there but one of my turn signals is missing. I filled their contact forum multiple times but haven’t gotten an answer for a while now. My phone can’t make international calls so can’t call them. Any help getting in touch with watts truck center would be much appreciated.

I found 691GC227M2 on the web , states that it's 70psi..Could anyone confirm 👍? I would call any of my local mack dealers and ask ,but they're as useless as tits on a boar hog and lazier than an upper jaw. Thanks Red.

These trucks were positive ground from the factory. The two I have both were set up to run twelve volt starters with negative ground. The B42 had no series parallel switch originally and I deleted it from the B73 before I ever ran it. Two things I had to do when setting them up was reverse the leads to the ammeter so it read correctly under charge, if not it'll read a discharge when the generator or alternator comes on line. One way to test for this, is before running the truck, is to put a load on the system by turning the headlights on and checking the ammeter for a discharge or just momentarily giving it a direct short to ground downstream of the ammeter. If the polarity is wrong it'll show a charge.The other was to when I had the generator rebuilt I asked to have it set up for negative ground. Regarding the voltage regulator, almost every one I had new out of the box, had instructions on them to "Flash the Field". They are not polarity sensitive until the field side is momentarily energized only for a second or two. All the instruments and senders don't care about the polarity and will work normally with either polarity, with the exception of the ammeter. Looking at your diagram, it looks like it's set up for negative ground. The lead from Battery A is going to the ground side of the starter. I have a wiring diagram in an original Mack maintenance manual I used to wire and convert the B73 to the 12V starter and switch to an alternator. The new harness I had was set up for the S/P switch and a generator and I wanted to delete it properly and switch to an alternator. Let me dig that out and see if I can post it here to help you chase the wires to the switch. You can hook the batteries up to the S/P switch but leave the starter disconnected. Using a voltmeter, test the various smaller terminals for 12 volts, nothing should read to the starter lead. This would be testing the S/P switch in the "run" position. Using a jumper or pressing the starter switch with the ignition switch on should give you 24 volts at the starter on the voltmeter. That would test the S/P switch in the "start" position. To be clear, you're not changing your polarity so if the batteries are hooked up wrong the ammeter will be your initial clue they need to be reversed by putting that load on or creating a momentary short. You have a new S/P switch installed so it should work if wired correctly. Once you get it running I would still check that both batteries are charging by receiving around 14.5 volts by checking them with a voltmeter individually. That's one of the issues a S/P switch will give you, is that one set of batteries is not charging. P.S., I have a brand new 12V AC Delco voltage regulator still in the box if you want it? I bought it years ago and have no need for it as I have alternators on everything, now.

Gunna have a race go make it to the race Looks like it's coming together though Paul

I dunno if it will or won't, probably different frequency in Australia but it will look cool and be something to sit and stare at Paul

Yes

Ford Kuga electronic parking brake has been acting a bit weird lately. Sometimes when I park, it suddenly shows a “parking brake system fault” message, but the brake itself seems to work fine. After restarting the car, the warning sometimes disappears, sometimes it comes back again. Has anyone else experienced this? What’s usually causing it — sensor issue, module glitch, or is this just normal behavior for this model?

That’s fantastic… nice going… bob

Making headway. I have the majority of the linkage made tonight. I am playing with rod lengths to get things right. I just need to get a piece of 1/4" key stock to lock the arm to the clutch pedal to set pedal height and check the actual throw. I have high hopes it works good. The Z bar. I just need to tap a side hole for a grease zero, dress up the corners and put some paint on it. The new lift pump will be here Wednesday, so I hope to get it started and maybe try the clutch in Thursday. 🤞🤞🤞 I also started mounting the power steering reservoir on the passenger side. I made the bracket, just need to finish it up once the new pump is installed. I realized yesterday that I have my next race on May 24th(not 31st). Time is running short!! Real short.

Great Paul! Hope it works well for you. 👍

Tks will try in the morning

What where they grossing with that kind of load

Look at them aluminum rims,stylin very cool.keep the pics coming.triple stick wow. Never seen one.and welcome

Connect the chosen polarity battery to the frame of the truck. with the rest of the batteries hooked up, go to the regulator, jump the battery terminal (B) on the regulator to the armature (A) for a second or two, and that is it. You have polarized the generator and it should start charging the correct way for the way the batteries are hooked.

How do I choose polarity?Mine has a voltage regulator and a generator.

Looks like it is wired for neg ground, but I can't say for sure. Once again, look to the alternator (if there is one) or the voltage regulator for a generator (they are sometimes marked as to polarity). If not marked, and there are no electronics, then chose one polarity and run with it. Neg ground makes the most sense today.

I did a B-Model wheel end change and removed the middle seal, and easily found a good oil seal for the hub. Filled with oil and off to work it went... It's been a few years ago.. I saw it at work for a year after I did the swap..

so the EGR and the sniffers are gone as well?

Inner seal was kept and inner bearing greased. That’s a great write up to have if inner seal will ever be deleted. Hopefully someone will find it helpful down the road!

My number is 215-669-1252 and I’m in Philadelphia Pa.

I have mentioned this before and got some great response.But I’m still lost.First question will be how do I know if my truck is positive or negative ground?Secord question what the hell m I doing wrong.I have provided some diagrams of how I have my truck wired up.When the truck is running or not the whole thing is hot.By that I mean touching my test light against anything it lights up(steering column,frame,oil filter and so forth).Any help would be greatly appreciated.When it is running it runs great.I have a rebuilt generator for it and a new voltage regulator,I don’t want to damage them.

So sorry,,,, Joey just spotted this that’s the worse … bob

Mark- Agree with you on the VHD, Only good looking Volvo in my opinion. (Axle fore ward only) Heinz-Does Volvo Heavy Haul offer the Cummins X-15, If so will Mack follow? I think Acar offers seal beams also. Keep it simple stupid. KS- I believe you like the new Autocar conventionals? I saw Severino up in NH had a new one. They used to be all Mack Granite dumps and then some Western Stars.