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You know, I didn't even think about that. When I was having turn signal issues I unplugged it, but it was a pain to get it unplugged. I'll be going back out there soon and try it. Another thing to note is the high beam indicator does not light up when the relay is installed. However when I put power to the corresponding pin on the relay block it does illuminate. My flash to pass switch up top also triggers the indicator as it should. I think I know where you're going with this, I didn't think to unplug it since the high beam indicator wasn't on.

I have a superliner 1

If I would buy the paint all the material would anyone be open to painting it I don’t have the money to spend

A pencil pusher "engineer" who never drove a truck??????

Seemed odd to me that Mack felt the need to call them Road lights instead of Fog lights.. thank you for the response

Basically you are right!! That is one of the names for the additional lights either in or below the bumper, white or yellow, for better visibility in poor weather conditions. The best were made by Perlux and had fins to keep the light from blinding oncoming traffic.

i remember many many many many years ago on the farm we bought a load of sweet potato seedlings from a co op in North Carolina because of a shortage at our usual sellers. we ended up with about 25% of the field being tobacco plants.

I have a factory toggle switch on the dash of my Western built Superliner that is labled "Road Lights". Can anyone tell me what road lights were on those trucks? All of my lighting is controlled by existing switches, so I assumed road lights were an option that has long since been disconnected. Were they just Fog lights mounted in the bumper? . . . or something else entirely ? RW

Is there a way you can take a wider picture, as well thank you.

Thank you for the picture

All the EUP lifters are steel.. the valve lifter became ceramic in around 2002. Steel lifters are my go-to... the intake bridges were changed when heads with pinless intakes was introduced.. spring loaded pushrods were for the backcut on the exhaust cam lobes on the new style cam shaft. A Real E-Tech did NOT use spring loaded pushrods.. Im going to stop here, as more info needs to be posted. What is the basic goal of your question?

Hey idk if y'all are still around. I have a question about the 1998 E7 with the spring loaded push rods. I bought a new engine reman with piston, liners, crank, cam, and new heads, were installed from the place I bought the engine. I had to use my old original Valve train, turbo, oil pump, eups, etc. My original engine that I pulled did not have spring loaded push rods they were solid. Also had to get new valve bridges but only the intake ones if I remember correctly (its been a year) and when I put the original push rods in from my old engine, solid ones, there was about a half inch gap on my valve bridges. Then I found out about the spring loaded ones and that took care of the gap problem. The question I have is, you mentioned down below that the spring loaded push rods were paired with ceramic EUP cups, is that necessary to have ceramic for the spring loaded push rods? I installed the regular steel EUP cups when I put the engine in. When I bought the engine, the company I got it from they do remans, said there might me slilght differences. I am wondering what exact engine I have, the original that I replaced was an E7460. This is the first Mack engine I had to get this deep into myself, so I am not sure if the ceramic EUP cups vs the steel , is it going to make a difference with the push rod type? Everything else bolted on just fine and was exactly the same. I have been running it for about a year now with the steel type eup cups paired with the spring loaded push rods. I was wondering if I needed to change the eup cups to ceramic? Is ther any adjustments that you're supposed to do to the EUPs? How often are you supposed to adjust the valves? Thank you! I'm not very good at typing, my apologies. (The place I bought the engine from is a very well known place for reman diesel engines, if that matters at all)

Ooooooooo there’s a big surprise!!!!!

Speaking Tom's situaion cables could also be put at the outside to some anchoring spots the way we anchor a tent. But seems a risky deal with good chance being stumble. So that idea with fence posts or poles seems better. For example 2x2" square or 2" OD round pipes could be put into the ground (better cementized) maybe for a feet or two deep with a portion of 3-4 feet above the ground getting right along the structure side rib and bolted to it near the top and the bottom.

You can see some very long bridges hanging on cables. So X-ing a shed isn't a really hard deal.

Maybe it's not fine to flood up Larry's thread but seems I should toss a pair of nikels to this basket. Paul's explanations were wrong (or maybe we are both wrong with him as he clever addmits sometimes). The effect of cavitation is predicted by taking the fluid body apart. It's possible if you "pull one end" and "hold the other". For example in a centrifugal pump some portion of fluid is forsed to go to the outside due to spinning but the incoming fluid is hold down because of excessive resistance in the suction channel. Or similar effect can be achieved on a surface of impeller blades. Big impellers have section of blades made by the same principal as a plane wing. That "assymetrical ellipse" shape produces difference of pressures on different sides of the wing. More curved side gets lower pressure what helps getting the plane up. And same effect is used in leaned (not straight) boat sales. Ok, that's a rocket since but the point we deal regarding cavitation is fluid is broken down in a certain point. So a bubble occures there. That's not gas in fact. It's vaccuum. It could be gas filled to some minor grade because of intensive evaporation to the vacuumated volume but what has meaning is that volume is under notably lower pressure than the whole fluid body. When that bubble moves from the area with conditions which produced it to area with normal conditions normal pressure in the fluid presses it down immediately. And as long as fluid doesn't compress as gas it produces big hit in that spot. It's pressure wave spreads over surrounding fluid and since fluid is super-conductive for stress it achive structural parts of the device. During cavitation we have a kind of "hammering" to empeller blades, pump housing or a cylinder sleeve (here the effect is stimulated by pressure jumps in the combustion chamber if combustion isn't going right, for example being detonative). Ok, constant hitting to a structural element makes material brittle which is followed by chipping out and making cavits. This way general reason for cavitation to take place is incorrect movement of fluid in a certain passage. For centrifugal pumps the most typical reason to cavitate is higher revs than they are designed for. And clogged suction side too or sucking from very low level.

youtube fixing fifth gen cummins biggest weak point - Google Search Some innovative ways to install with out removing the pan! and the totally stupid shit Cummins has done going backwards with some design features !

Here's a Picture of our compressor "Unloader" (AKA the governor). It is working and has a range, where it turns off the compressor at 120 psig, and restarts it around 85 psig. Note: before starting the truck we sprayed some PB-Blaster in all the ports.

I wish I am The buyer... but I really do have plenty to do. I also swapped for the 76 C-10 big block truck that needs my attention.. Its a rare bird, and will fit nicely in my mini collection..

Thank you Vlad.

Best of luck! Fingers crossed.

Thanks, I will do that. I just happen to have an old tire out here, but I probably need more than one to make a tower, right? I do have a huge flower pot that I was going to plant one in too.

So another guy came by today to look at the big green International that runs now. He was Fredericksburg guy, who was acting as an agent for Kentucky guy, who was acting as an agent for Michigan guy. Bottom line, he was very impressed with it. He called Michigan guy and told him it was nice, started right up, and the pictures didn't do it justice. And I didn't even wash it or anything, still had inch deep dust on the hood. Michigan guy said he would call me later this afternoon.

Tom, lf you are space limited in the garden. Grow your sweet potatoes in a tire tower. Look on the www for unlimited sites for instructions. l do know tires hold a crap load of dirt! .....Hippy