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That’s fantastic… nice going… bob

Making headway. I have the majority of the linkage made tonight. I am playing with rod lengths to get things right. I just need to get a piece of 1/4" key stock to lock the arm to the clutch pedal to set pedal height and check the actual throw. I have high hopes it works good. The Z bar. I just need to tap a side hole for a grease zero, dress up the corners and put some paint on it. The new lift pump will be here Wednesday, so I hope to get it started and maybe try the clutch in Thursday. 🤞🤞🤞 I also started mounting the power steering reservoir on the passenger side. I made the bracket, just need to finish it up once the new pump is installed. I realized yesterday that I have my next race on May 24th(not 31st). Time is running short!! Real short.

Great Paul! Hope it works well for you. 👍

Tks will try in the morning

What where they grossing with that kind of load

Look at them aluminum rims,stylin very cool.keep the pics coming.triple stick wow. Never seen one.and welcome

Connect the chosen polarity battery to the frame of the truck. with the rest of the batteries hooked up, go to the regulator, jump the battery terminal (B) on the regulator to the armature (A) for a second or two, and that is it. You have polarized the generator and it should start charging the correct way for the way the batteries are hooked.

How do I choose polarity?Mine has a voltage regulator and a generator.

Looks like it is wired for neg ground, but I can't say for sure. Once again, look to the alternator (if there is one) or the voltage regulator for a generator (they are sometimes marked as to polarity). If not marked, and there are no electronics, then chose one polarity and run with it. Neg ground makes the most sense today.

I did a B-Model wheel end change and removed the middle seal, and easily found a good oil seal for the hub. Filled with oil and off to work it went... It's been a few years ago.. I saw it at work for a year after I did the swap..

so the EGR and the sniffers are gone as well?

Inner seal was kept and inner bearing greased. That’s a great write up to have if inner seal will ever be deleted. Hopefully someone will find it helpful down the road!

My number is 215-669-1252 and I’m in Philadelphia Pa.

I have mentioned this before and got some great response.But I’m still lost.First question will be how do I know if my truck is positive or negative ground?Secord question what the hell m I doing wrong.I have provided some diagrams of how I have my truck wired up.When the truck is running or not the whole thing is hot.By that I mean touching my test light against anything it lights up(steering column,frame,oil filter and so forth).Any help would be greatly appreciated.When it is running it runs great.I have a rebuilt generator for it and a new voltage regulator,I don’t want to damage them.

So sorry,,,, Joey just spotted this that’s the worse … bob

Mark- Agree with you on the VHD, Only good looking Volvo in my opinion. (Axle fore ward only) Heinz-Does Volvo Heavy Haul offer the Cummins X-15, If so will Mack follow? I think Acar offers seal beams also. Keep it simple stupid. KS- I believe you like the new Autocar conventionals? I saw Severino up in NH had a new one. They used to be all Mack Granite dumps and then some Western Stars.

Congrats on the rare catch up Paul! Well done!

I wish there was a straight forward process for registering a vehicle in Connecticut. I put the requirement of the DOT number exemption in the same category as the Affidavit requirement I was asked to produce. I have several friends that had to get the DOT exemption, prior to receiving a registration, but on both my trucks I was never asked to produce one. That was as recently as 2023 for the B73. My fall back whenever asked to produce some sort of documentation, is to ask for the statutory requirement for such. Then ask for a supervisor for clarification on where the requirement exists if it cannot be resolved with that clerk. Many times they can't define the requirement as it's just what they've been told and can't be backed up in black and white. DMV requirement have changed over the years, mostly with vehicle inspections leading to just a VIN verification, and I've stated the requirements as I've experienced them to register a former commercial vehicle with Classic Vehicle plates in Connecticut. I would be curious as to what you actually experience and if they provide you with written documentation requirements? If you do make any phone inquiries prior to going to DMV, please tell us the context of those conversations and the statute references if they exist? That would certainly be helpful as a guide for helping people in similar situations going forward. As always, I try to be pleasant during exchanges with DMV, whether in person or over the phone. The person I spoke with over the phone was able to confirm my requirements was very helpful in getting my truck registered. There was still some confusion with the clerk and supervisor at the counter. But, after some back and forth, I did walk away with my registration and plates. Matt

Thank you

That is a very good way to approach the problem. If the drums are worn but not terrible, a re-lined set of shoes will outlast your lifetime if you aren't stopping 80K lbs on a daily biases. Don't let perfection prevent good enough. Talk to some heavy truck parts houses and find one that will either re-line or send your shoes out for re-line. Last time I did that it was a week + or- for them to be ready for pick-up. Being a hobby truck you can wait that long.

The shoes I have look decent now but I just wanted to be ready for when I take it apart it’s only gonna be a hobby truck so if everything looks decent then it will do ok for me

Start by assessing the drums, if they are serviceable and you can get the casting number off them, it will help looking for parts. If the drums are trash, and an odd size, then it is going to be a struggle to find what will bolt in place and work.

As long as the shoes themselves are not damaged, having new linings installed on the old shoes is likely the best solution.

It says I have 16.25x3x1/2 inch brake shoes for an FA505 front axle with spoke wheels I was wondering what everyone else was doing for brakes maybe I’m missing something cause it seems like these shoes are obsolete