All Activity

Late to the party.... Congrats on new job. Hope it brings you happiness. I want to change jobs after 40 yrs here but I will loose a bunch of perks that I don't want to loose, yet.

Yep...

Great Minds Joey!

Without a shim, the bead goes on the shelf. You need to shoot straight when inserting the liner so you dont smudge the bead of RTV with the end of the liner. Yes to putting the shim on the liner . Zero chance of pinching it.

I think I’ve seen it in our local true value

I like the shim stuck to the liner on install less chance of it getting dragged into the bore on install seen that happen as well! bead of scone on ledge and liner as Joey mentoined! again I been away from this for a bit but some things do stick around in my knogin !🙄

Ya baby,,,, have a swinging time and best wishes

I'll get in there and check things out. I may be able to borrow a cutter if needed. Thanks for the advice. This may be a new motor before I'm through.

Since Western Star dropped the 6900, it looks like the only competition for the KW C580 will be the upstart Canadian Edison Motor offering. Pretty interesting Company

What are the specs on Mack AB and AC engines

I put a narrow bead on the liner and on the shelf. NARROW.... you dont want the RTV to not allow a good liner seat. I also recommend taking a small amount off the shelves with a counter bore cutter, unless you are happy with the depth mic readings at 4 points in each bore

Shim sizes are a plenty. Up to .020".

That seems like a good idea, thanks. If I shim the liners, would I put a bead of silicone on the block and on the shim? Or do I just put it on the block?

Joey or Heniz would know the shim the shim sizes available ! 2 thou increments Rings a bell for me But havent been there for a few years! You should clock the liners as you pull them and put them back in the same local if your going to try this!

Okay thanks. I did that last time I changed the gaskets and did get 200k out of them. If the bores and liners look good, can they be shimmed .003 or .004? What thicknesses do the shims come in?

You could try re retorque after a few heat cycles ( Crap shoot ) other than that you got to pull liners check for cracks and shim ! on the cheap a guy could scuff the liners and reuse! Done that ! Mack made us do this under Warranty once and NOT SCUFF the liners It worked oK but I prefer to scuf! just my opinion!

I am using a quality sled guage and I am going by the manual for the measurement. I haven't pulled the liners, so I guess that's next. I'm looking for a longer straight edge to check the block and heads. I'm probably not getting a clear enough reading with the one I have. This motor was rebuilt by the previous owner and may have already had the bores cut. I am curious if you've seen protrusion too low from the factory? Did they ever change production specs as they increased power ratings? The motor ran good other than the failed gasket and naturally, I don't want to rebuild it if I can avoid it. In your opinion can I expect any life out of it at the lower end of spec? The truck is 26 years old and a couple hundred thousand more miles might see her to the end. Thanks for any help. I know I have a lot of questions and am asking for some speculation. I just don't have enough personal experience with this to make a good decision.

You want to be as Joey said 25 or better specially on high HP engines !! On the first E7 engines the spec was set low and it caused issues like this! I believe the low spec back then was 19 ! Had one that kept blowing rads up and popping water filters! odiously the filler cap was haywire too However! After the second water filter you have to dive in and figure out what the issue really is!

Larry, SAE 50 (synthetic or mineral) has the same viscosity range as 90 GL. 40 SAE is close to 80 GL so no change in "thickness". Gear lube and engine oil are "rated" on different scales. EP additive package in GL increases "tackyness" in the lube so it tends to stay on the gears (and syncro) better, not an advantage with syncro's. An important thing in hypoid and amboid gearing. SAE 50 or 40 are approved by Eaton and I have used both. SAE oils have better heat tolerance then gear lube and are preferred for that reason. Synthetic oil has better heat tolerance than mineral based SAE oil. If you look though what Eaton has put out about lube for their heavy manuals, all three types of oil are approved depending on market. When run in the highest heat load conditions, over 1950 ft/lbs and/or extended drain, Eaton says that the top tier of oil has to be used if you want them to warranty it. You also have to keep the oil temp below their limit with and oil cooler. If you are running below those limits and follow "std" oil change protocol, they will warranty with mineral oil as well. In third world regions they still allow gear lube to be used. Every step up in oil is better but not required for proper operation as long as oil temp is kept below X (I'd have to go back and re read to find the limit). In short, the syncro still works with all three types of oil.

did you file a police report for that stolen igloo? you may be able to file an insurance claim and get reimbursed for the cost of rebuild materials. 🤣