All Activity

OK, gotcha thats where you were last I heard bob

i have never used a hydraulic puller. The last ENDT I did, I fought the liners. I had to weld beads inside the liners and let them cool. I also had to dress the edges of the 'dogs' on my puller a few times because they would slip off and round over. it was a chore.

No. I was going to purchase a puller but this friend offered to bring his hydraulic puller over and help. Basically a piece of well casing, all thread and a hollow pin hydraulic jack. Seemed a bit easier than a hand puller.

🍻

Thanks for all your help.

no damage. you have steel roller lifters.

After troubleshooting all the common problems (no leaks,new governor,degunking unloader valves),I’ve decided to swap out my Tu Flo 500 for a rebuild.I’ve had the truck for a year and have been slowly going through it to get it roadworthy and make it a “rolling restoration “.The most air pressure it ever built was 10 psi and now it won’t even read on the gauge.I’ve made up my mind to just swap the compressor out and looking for tips and advice on the best way to do it without dropping 50 pounds on my chest.Thanks and have a great day!

I tried to do my research. But those spring loaded push rods weren't in the book. Do you think it damaged things to run the engine like that for 3-5 minutes?

Sounds like you were paying attention. Good deal

Correct. I had been watching the rockers as someone else rotated the engine to make sure #1 was 30°after TC of compression stroke. I didn't know about watching #2 trick. I was also looking at #6, the companion cylinder, close off the exhaust valves and open the intake (just after exhaust stroke) as the engine was coming up on the timing mark. Im pretty sure I was adjusting at the right time/stroke. Let me know if I'm wrong though. Thanks.

keep in mind.... when the pointer is pointing to 1&6 that doesnt mean you are up on #1. you may be up on #6.. when you are up on #1, the #2 exhaust rocker will be rocked, (valve open)..

Thank you Jojo. Yes, I did use the flywheel valve adjusting marks to start with #1 and then 5,3,6,2,4. I did also set the bridge clearance on the exhaust valves to .010. The yokes/ bridges on the intake valves for this engine did not seem to have any adjustment to them, so I did not do anything to adjust those. Am I missing something about these bridges? After I posted, I saw a post where you helped out Mcrachet1 with a similar problem in May of 2024. JoeH also added what seemed like factory instructions for spring loaded push rods. I think I have something to go on now. Thank you for your help.

There building those Western Stars right in the middle of the state ( Cleveland, NC US 70 ) Every time I pass by they are rolling them out,, I’ve toured the assembly line 2 times. They do have a good look to them,,, But remember they are LOADED with Electronics and Plastic. Keep that 86 R going. I was looking for a newer truck last year, I talked to Joey about the pros and cons of the newer ones. I have a good friend in the towing business, and over half his towing is emissions or sensor related. So I bought the RW753 from my Son , and now that I’m done with it I have about the same money that I could have bought something in the 2010-2015 range with a lot of miles on them. I’ll be 67 my birthday, so that was the choice I made.

Yes you need to compress the springs. Did you also set the bridge clearence to .010" on both ends? And did you rotate the engine according to the book. And where you sure you were up on #1 when you started the ajustment ? I hope posted several times about adjusting the valves on these. You may be able to find my lengthy posts. Jojo

Should be able to read it all ifbyou zoom in a bit Paul

Hello, Just installed new heads on 99 CL with E7460 etech with an engine brake.. It has spring loaded push rods. When adjusting valves, I adjusted them without compressing the push rod spring but engine seems doggy and seems like there is a lot of noise coming right out the air cleaner. I've never had any experience with spring loaded push rods and the book didn't say to compress the springs when adjusting the clearance so I didn't. But now I'm wondering if not doing so could be not allowing the exhaust valves to fully open and so when the intake valve opens the air that didn't get let out through the exhaust, is actually getting released through the intake valves since it is still under pressure. Thanks in advance for your help.

Yes I have one, I’ll try it. I’ve just been trying to get the deep scratches out with the DA ,,,, I’m too the point where I’m telling myself,, it’s a work truck !

I replaced the EPDM still no brake lights

I never got good results with one of those DAs. Best one I have is an old one you can lock to spin round only. And lots of WD40

I have a 2011 D13 doing the same thing right now, fills the truck with smoke, fuel knock on cylinder 1, cut the cylinder out all is great, changed all injectors, no change reset overhead, turbo VGT was stuck changed turbo, about 20 seconds after start up n VGT closes it starts to knock, set trim codes and did a cylinder balance reset and the knock went away for a sort time. has anyone found a salution to this issue?

I’ve spent 2 evenings sanding the rear fenders , they had some deep scratches, there are a few that’s not coming out,, I’m down to 600 grit . I’m about ready to polish and move on.

One of these postd we're gonna see the Mov'n On KW in the background or the coupe from American Graffiti to match the '55

I will take all the Chevy trucks, all day long...👍

Do you have this liner pulling tool ?

TOO MUCH STUFF,, Every once in a while we have to sell some STUFF or we run out of sheds.