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1st, it looks like they are 12" brakes so new axles will also need to be "low boy" axles, 2nd that is a lot of brackety to weld in for no gain. What is wrong with the current axle? Axle and brake are two different things. That may be an SR-5 but I can't tell from the picture. What size tires does it have on it now?

I really don’t know what the previous owner had going on with the brakes. I’m going to cut those axles out and weld new ones in. And will also put new air lines in. This is really just a trailer to haul my trackhoe and dozer between farms. But I want to make it as safe as possible. I just thought it may be easier to buy one of those tanks with the valves attached and mound it inside the frame. I’ve added a pic of what I’m referring to.

President Trump issued an executive order on January 7 prohibiting defense contractors from paying dividends or buying back shares "until such time as they are able to produce a superior product, on time and on budget." Separately, President Trump also said annual defense contractor CEO payouts should be limited to $5 million. Reminds me of the movie "Dave". .

I would follow Brockys advice. Get it running and then see how they drive. If you have never driven trucks like this it won't be a quick thing to just hop in a drive. 26 yrs ago when I bought mine it took a summer of driving to get proficient and comfortable.

Coupla things, screw clamps on rubber air lines are not permitted. No way "one is fed from service the other from supply". You've got to get what you have legal before trying to add spring brakes. Without seeing the whole air system, I can't tell what is buggered up and what if anything is correct. What I can see from that one picture will get you shut down in a heartbeat. You've got kinked copper line. I would correct the defects that will get you shut down. I towed many trailers without spring brakes (I was a heavy hauler) over the years. Once the system is correct, you can see if there is enough room to add what is needed for spring brakes. Also need to correct what is wrong with the RH S cam bracket, the push rod is not inline with the slack adjuster. It looks like something with the slack adjuster bushing isn't right, preventing the can as push rod from being properly in line. everytime I look I see more wrong, right chamber fully extended, left chamber fully retracted, what the heck is going on there? Stuck or air to one chamber only?

The Mack engineers designed the complete power train to accept the heaviest (and overweight) loads that a customer could put on the truck. As a hobby truck, bobtailing or with a light load of toys, this usage of the entire available power train is not necessary. I would first determine what YOU are going to use the truck for?? If NO heavy work is planned, you can play with the present duplex and enjoy yourself, with out going to the work and expense of swapping transmissions.

Thanks for the help. I have a few places I could call around to for what I’d need. They are just an hour or so away from me. I think I could swap the 30/30 cans to just single 30s. But im not sure which would be easier/more cost effective to do. It may be one of those six in one hand, half a dozen in the other scenarios.

Zina has been talking about trading her Nissan Titan for a GMC because she likes them. The Nissan is our truck, but it's really her truck. She wanted a truck, and she traded her nearly new Honda CR-V for it. The Nissan has given us no problems so far, and when I started looking at GMC trucks I was surprised to hear how many people had transmission and engine problems, joking that they should come with a spare transmission, and people saying their engines were crap with hardly any miles on them. Then you have some saying "well, I've got 375,000 on mines and it's been fine". But anyway, I think she should keep the Nissan. My online research told me that even Toyota was having a lot of engine problems.

Honestly with an antique vehicle just bobtailing around with no load you can shift a quad or a tri as just a 5 speed with the auxiliary in lo or direct and then once in 5th shift the aux to hi and forget about all that shifting.

Heavy equipment trailers were exempt from the spring brake requirement and may be still are. You need to plumb it correctly with an SR-5 valve not just with a relay valve. Look at Bendix's air brake manual for the correct plumbing or leave as is a carry some chalk blocks.

Not sure which model of quad you are after but here are the ratios for a direct triplex and overdrive quadruplex. If you look study the ratios and percent drops in the sequence you can see why it is recommended some should not be used. You can use all 20 forward gears with no ill effects, however, in a practical sense it makes no sense to do so.

I always put the mid grade gas in the car and the pickup. The car, a 2016 Impala, has the "flex fuel" sticker so it only requires the lowest grade, and the highest octane is recommended in the Nissan pickup. They both run good on it, and I'll put a can of Sea Foam in them periodically. A gas expert once told me the mid grade and hi-test was the same gas, they just put an additive in the mid grade to make it high test gas.

The reason you don't use 5th gear with the compound in low is because that gear ratio is the same or very close to the ratio in 4th gear with the compound in high. There would be no reason to shift to that gear (5th lo), it would be about the same ratio. There are several gear ratios like that in many of the Triplex and Quadruplex transmissions also. There are gears there, and there might be a time when you would use them, but it would not be part of your normal shifting sequence. I find the Quadruplex is nicer to drive than the Duplex, because of how you shift; you use the compound more, and the shift lever is closer to the driver. There is nothing wrong with wanting to have a 20 speed transmission. It's your truck, have fun with it. you might not use Lo Split in the compound much, but it is very handy in tight spots or backing up.

Any vehicle sold in USA after I think 2001 model year was/is required to be able to burn gasoline with up to 15% ethanol. If you read the fine print on each gas pump it always says may contain up to 15% ethanol. Then sometime in the early 2000s they came out with E85 (85%) ethanol fuel made from corn. The vehicle has to be specifically made to burn it. It will have a yellow fuel filler cap if so. Most stations outside the Midwest don't have it but it is really cheap compared to 87 "regular" gasoline. But I heard you take a really significant hit to your fuel economy when using it so it probably all balances out. IMO ethanol in gasoline is the biggest scam ever imposed on the motoring public.

Thank you all for the much needed information im pretty sure you guys have figured out that im as uneducated as it get in turking im only 26 and still learning tons of new stuff about these trucks and everyone in BMT is super nice to me. I did not know that was the case with 20 speeds but even tho i know now im still itching to put a 20 speed in there since i always wanted to dirve one with 20 speed (there is no logical reson for me to want the 20 speed but here im still wanting it. Its a part of the dream) How about the 10 speed i have in my truck has low high and 5 gears (technically 9 since it says no 5th gear on low) do i use the all 9 of the gears on that. My truck is not in driving condition right now so couldn’t drive it. Also why does it say no 5th gear in low.

Our Aussie supply is 91, 95 & 98 Octane. I always used to buy 91. Then I was encouraged to buy the E10 which had some bio fuel. Within 6 months our Toyota V6 Prado would not start, it was choking. I called the Toyota service manager, he asked are you filling up with E10, yes. He told me go buy 98 and put as much as possible into tank and some injector cleaner and then try start motor. He said if you get it to run it was cough and sputter but let it run so new fuel and cleaner can get into the injectors. He advised me, never use the E10 because it clogs up the injectors and in time will damage the fuel system - big $'s to repair. It worked. 98 has been the fuel ever since and never any issues. Then my local BBQ LPG supplier told me he always filled his cars with 98. His work Ford Falcon ute from new had 750,000 klms, ran like new, oil regular changes oil was near clean, no smoke out the exhaust. Plus more power, no valve pinging under load and better economy than 91 & 95. My daughters filled their little 1100 Toyota with 91, under load it pinged like a sick piano. I put 98 in and some additive, it hummed like a canary and it pulled real hard up hill, and more distance. Many years ago over hear we had Standard and Super, I dont know what the Octane was in each grade. I do recall that with Standard our 6 cyl Holden (US Chev blue/grey motors) would ping under load especially uphill. Same with dad's Inter R190's, with Super the pull and performance under load was far better than Standard. And with a high load fronting a head wind they would top gear easily. Not so with Standard fuel.

I would think any business that sells trailer and truck parts would have a good selection of tanks on the shelf Most low loader trailers dont have enough room for tanks in the area around the axles and the like They always look like they have bucket loads of room but when on full oscillation the axles cans tend to move a lot more than people think Paul

Hello everyone, I have purchased a new to me equipment trailer which only has service brakes on the rear axle. It came with two axles from another trailer with ~100k miles on them. They have the service and park break chambers. I would like to add the r12 and r14 valves to the trailer and plumb them up correctly with the anti compounding valve. The trailer has two air tanks along the frame rails. One is fed from the service side and the other is fed from the supply side. But they both feed into sides of the only r12(?) valve. Which may be normal for that old of a trailer but it has me puzzled on how I can connect it all together. So if anyone has a tank off a trailer that has those valves already mounted I would be interested in purchasing it. Or someplace that might have one. That way I can just bypass the old tanks and lines to just run new ones.

Nope....

This is funny, Rufus the bull.

Soros ? FYI you're helping pay for it. You me everyone who lives a productive existence. One way or another these low life leaches get a little piece of everything and funnel it into nonsense.

So the Navy is paying $17.2 million per aircraft for the new (long delayed) T45 trainer............and it can't perform a carrier touch-and-go ??? https://www.twz.com/air/navys-t-45-replacement-will-not-be-capable-of-making-carrier-landing-touch-and-goes