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ive done the same thing but it was level ground,,,,lotsa rocks,,,plywood and a pallet jack and of coarse alone lol.bob

I have a plate I'd give ya. Hole in the middle and notched to clear the oiler. They're only @11 inches until it starts come'n out 😁

Im pickin up what you put down.. That sucks. The last p.o.s. job i did was pulling a mack tranny out of a granite dump truck,outside on a small hill, using plywood on the dirt to roll the jack. That job sucked..

Well the down side to it was haveing to often work in a chicken coop ! I was offended asked to do un conventional things in un conventional places one hole patches ect!😡

I always used a bottom plate and threaded rod I wore out the treaded rod a time or two just be careful to get the block holes really clean before sliding in the new liners. How bad are the bores? Maybe you can lolly pop the liners, it would be ok if no taper in the bore.

Did you say the compressor was blowing oil out of it?

thats pretty creative, fjh.. I didnt get the pleasure of doing those when I was in the shop. I was too new and not ready to do that kind of work back then. I guess I missed a lot of fun. 🍻

Wow from that short video clip it looks like it’s blowing out of there pretty hard. Good luck don’t forget to check your check valve. Also that may be all it is good luck.

We had a flat push plate made for the bottom inframe push from the bottom with a tall bottle jack! Some times would almost lift the truck off the floor before they would come loose!

Yup I had forgotten about the cracking thous cracks we’re common on these too!

Probably hard to tell how many PSI without a gauge but here’s a short video clip IMG_9987.mov

I had the line off at the wet tank,there was some air coming out.I wasn’t aware of the braided line,I’ll check that.Thank you.

Glad to see someone else interested in 865/866 V8s. They were a one driver engine and abused buy most. First thing is dropping seats is not uncommon. The bad thing is ALL of these engines that I have worked on have Cracked heads. So much so that it took 4 engines (12) heads to find 4 accetable ones for my rebuild. (3) no cracks one with a small crack. I found a good rebuilt longblock later on and sitting since. The best that I could find 25 years ago. The issue is that heads crack though the injector hole from intake to exhaust so both seats are jepodized. Oversize seats will not fix anything as the crack will always be there and will open up with time and overheating with a driver with a lead foot. This dropping seats carried over to the E9s but was due to not enough press fit from seat to head seat bore. I dropped seats in E9s as well. I do have the same unstarted rebuilt 865/866 longblock for $3000 plus shipping. It was a spare for my B-755 and not needed anymore. Safe alot on finding parts and labor. As long as head bolts are the later smaller hex ones not the old large hex I have had no issues with poping bolt heads.

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Working at a machine shop, it was going to make my own puller plates. 5.25 disc for the bottom with 4.875 pilot to hold it correctly in the bore and not slip off to the side. A hydraulic jack would just be easier then strong arming a nut and all thread. I don't know exactly how easy these liners will move? And they are like 11" long!

I did that job a couple of years ago and as Bob mentioned used my trusty engine hoist. My old air compressor would build air but also passed a lot of oil into the system. It is also a good idea to trouble shoot the system as Mecho recommends before just replacing the compressor.

Man,you have a lot of great stuff!

lol, don’t have a Movin on KW ,, But a friend of mine started this 55 about 10 years ago but never finished it, I bought it and finished it about 4 years ago, I used the same paint code as my Western Star,,, Imron Black Cherry ,, like most of the STUFF here,, wait till someone gives up on a project and finish it, I can’t afford to buy them already done.

I would try to borrow an engine hoist .. but as Mecho mentioned it’s probably a small issue good luck… bob

the well casing works. a 1 in threaded rod/ bar stock 2 1/2 or 3 wide 1 in thick with 1 in hole for threaded rod; can take the gr 8 1in nut weld a couple handles to it for better leverage ( or box wrench), same bar stock for bottom liner ; challenge there is cutting groove to fit liner. it works instead of $$$$ for one time use tool.

did you take off the discharge line from compressor check for any air being discharged ? keep in mine the air temp from compressor is extremely warm (hot), place a rag/ wear gloves . air coming from compressor yet no build up also consider the discharge line which should be steel/ copper has the short section of flex braided line that is known for collapsing internally. if end result is removal ;no easy way. remember the compressor may hold just enough oil to make a mess when tipping it out from frame. don't want someone under it assisting removal.

OK, gotcha thats where you were last I heard bob

i have never used a hydraulic puller. The last ENDT I did, I fought the liners. I had to weld beads inside the liners and let them cool. I also had to dress the edges of the 'dogs' on my puller a few times because they would slip off and round over. it was a chore.

No. I was going to purchase a puller but this friend offered to bring his hydraulic puller over and help. Basically a piece of well casing, all thread and a hollow pin hydraulic jack. Seemed a bit easier than a hand puller.