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If the MFG was any good, they likely would have done the "thinking" for you and provided a way to vent most if not all the air. Cat 3406 has the bypass to the 'stat come down vertical, so a small hole at the top of the higher pressure side will vent to the T stat housing. If the mfg did provide a method either internal or external, it is important not to plug what they put there.

IDK, I know a neighbor had a problem with a IHC. It was wet lined . Coolant filter and SCA's were the std answer in trucks at that time. He, like many farmers never gave it any thought until there was a problem. Never used SCA's or coolant filters.

lol I have no argument,,, here… I’ve never even heard of an air pocket in the water pump till now… like most people… assuming after running an engine a few minutes after new water pump ,,, air is all pushed through to the radiator

I'm going to say Pawn Stars.

I went looking for the causes, not solutions but you bring up good questions. I would add one more, does a dry liner engine have a similar problem as a parent bore? Do either of them have a problem at all? You don't hear much about dry lined engine leaking coolant between the dry liner and block/crankcase. I know it happens with freeze cracks. It would follow that the places in the block that hold the liner would effect the resonance of the liner. So a liner pressed in at the very top and bottom might resonate differently than one with the top press fit is lower in the block. The irony about learning is: the more you know the more questions it brings up! Mostly I hear about it in wet lined engines, but those are often the most powerful engines as well, so the cylinder pressure and piston speed may be a factor? I bet there could be a collage level course on the causes and solutions alone!

I was considering purchasing a 40-60hp Ford farm tractor of mid 1980s to mid 1990s vintage. They all had the same 3 or 4 cylinder wet sleeved engines. And from my research there was was repeated mention of cavitation and/or "porous blocks" in those series/vintage of Ford tractor engines. I don't know if those two terms are synonymous or different issues that are conflated by people that don't actually know. Anyway I decided I didn't want to take a chance on something that was coming up on 40 years old that had known issues when they were brand new.

So based on this analysis what is the conclusion as to why some engines suffer more so than others due to cavitation issues? Is it the specific harmonic that a particular engine creates inside of itself as well as the engine's specific liner design / material? Also does cavitation affect parent bore engines? Or does it but there is so much material between the wall of the water jacket and the wall of the cylinder that it never becomes a problem?

By the way. there should be a triangular cut out inside the bearing cover. that is to point down. its an oil drain.. 🍻

noticed number of conversations regarding removal of cover ; yet no mention of reinstall. memory correct the cover has only one position for proper install. a drain hole must line up with housing ? or has that been eliminated?

Some pretty fast progress for as many issues you have nice going Larry also yes, my steering box was 100 pounds. I didn’t even attempt to do anything with it without the engine crane… bob

Sounds like you are close to installing the new PS box. I'll be interested to watch that process.

That's what I thought, I just didn't say anything... 🤣 All I know is that I went to the dentist one time and he said "you have a cavitation here, you need to cut back on the M&Ms" 😀

Not to muck up Larrys 300 build thread any more I am going to start an new one. 1st I would like to say that I wasn't trying to be disrespectful to anyone (esp Paul) but did want to understand the thinking. I did a deep read on the subject, and found we are both wrong. Liner cavitation has nothing to do with the water pump at all. Not design, not placement on the block, not how well it bleeds itself of air, nor air itself. We were both partially correct and partially wrong. Paul is correct that vaporized coolant, not air, is the cause. It isn't due to flow or pressure however, according to what I have read on the subject. Liner cavitation is caused by high frequency sound wave from the liner itself, cause by the combustion and movement inside the liner. When these high frequency sounds get transferred from the liner into the coolant, they make high and low pressure points in a wave, as the liner resonates. When at the low pressure stage of the wave the coolant can vaporize and when at the high they "burst" back to liquid. This, over time can etch the liner in a tale tail pin hole shape. For this reason, cavitation damage is limited to one plane of the liner, and 90 deg around the liner there will be none, it is all in how the liner resonates. This also explains why it occurs more or less evenly across all liners in the engine without regard to how close or far they are from the water pump. If it were caused by vapor pockets circulating in the coolant, we would expect the damage to be random around the outside of the liner. It is also why some manuals state "with minor cavitation damage, the liner can be reused if turned 90 deg in the block". Centrifugal pumps can not pump air efficiently and even less so with a liquid "head" above the outlet. As stated it is why they are not "self priming". For this reason, there is a way provided to expel air when the outlet is below the top of the impeller housing. Eliminating any trapped air is important, but has no effect on liner cavitation. It can effect the pump itself and other parts of the engine. It is partially why all trucks for over 50 years use a "bottom fill" system (shown in the 300 thread as a Marmon attachment) so the coolant rises from the lowest point in the engine and pushes out the air as level rises. Paul stated "I must have an open mind to learn" and I do, which is why I ask anyone to back up their statements, I can't learn if I don't know the "why". An open mind lead me to a few hours of reading on the subject. I have already apologized to Paul in the 300 thread if I seamed a bit too "confrontational" but I need to understand the "why" of something to be able to retain it. His If you want more info or possibly a better explanation then I can give, do a web search for "causes of liner cavitation in heavy diesel engines" and select the ones Not from some YouTTube, but from engine mfg. To quote Paul " So cavitation occours when the liquid, in this case water, separates into gasses Oxygen and hydrogen in the case of water This happens when the delivery side of the pump isn't restricted enough or supply side is to restricted " It isn't that the coolant separates into Oxygen and Hydrogen or even that the mixture of antifreeze separates at all, but rather that it changes from liquid form to gas form while still being coolant, this happens at the minute scale where the wave caused by the high frequency sound from the liner meets the coolant on the outside of the liner. Much like an ultrasonic cleaner does. It does this while at pressure inside the block. Cummins low flow has a block coolant pressure of ~45psi @2100 rpm! That engine still has liner cavitation issues. It isn't that the flow is restricted in any way, either on the low pressure or high pressure side. Until I read up on it, I never really gave a thought to why it is on one side of the liner and 90 deg it doesn't happen, I knew that to be true, both from reading and pulling liners out of engines, but now I know the "why" and it help me to better understand the problem. Likely more than most want to read or know, but I did put in the time to understand it. The most important point I learned is the "vapor bubble" is both created and destroyed at the liner itself and not the result of being moved about by the circulation of the coolant.

This one? 1980 Mack R612T - Commercial Vehicles - Wooster, Ohio | Facebook Marketplace | Facebook

No big updates this week. Some painting of parts, made a few new small #4 lines for oil and coolant. My reman steering box showed up yesterday. Jeez that thing is HEAVY!! Kevin All is sending me a care package with template to drill frame for new box. That along with Jake pieces for Tip turbine. I did install the starter last night so it is ready to spin up. A friend gave me 10 gal of Cat oil(says better then Rotella for zinc) that I will be using. I need to get twin filter housing off the 237 before I can prime it up. I did get the race car all back together also. Trans back in, oil changed and primed up. Ready for another season after I donate bit of welding on the back end. Seems all the wheel stands have been working on the ladder bar front cross member and I saw a couple small cracks at a couple joints. Not uncommon actually but it has been a few years since I needed to address it. I also have set up my friend to use his service truck to do my install. Told him by end of March I hope to be ready to set it in the chassis. I need to start collecting material to build a custom lift cradle.

Ya, well there's your problem. Giving a damn about your companies property. So few, so far apart. I deal with that shit at my shop. I get in any vehicle and it looks like a 3 yr lived in it for a week. I have spent more of my own money on car washes then any have spent on their own vehicle since they were born. It's call Pride.

I drove a few with the 5 speed and it was quite an event to go from first up to second and it wasn't much different shifting on up I really liked the 13 speed in the Brockway triaxle and the ten speed in my White I

https://www.breitbart.com/economy/2026/03/03/breitbart-business-digest-the-strait-of-hormuz-is-the-line-between-a-scare-and-a-shock/

Think n back in history me thinx the early hi torque maxidynes were fitted with a 5 or 6 speed mack cog box the idea when driving @ full reves 2100 RPM pull gear lever into neutral wait for revs drop 1100rpm (or roll a cigarette) while U B waitin for the revs to drop so U can grab the next gear mack had a clutch brake and the idea to kill the revs between gears by hitting the clutch brake in neutral made for a faster gear change by slowing the cogs advance on a few years with a Maxidyne 5 or 6 speed cog box you could kill the revs by using the dynatard where you could pull the gear straight thru to the next cog this idea was great U did half the gearchanges compared to a green screemer & RR gear box twas the next best this to driving an Auto When the clutch brake aint working properly... thro the clutch to start off to pik up a gear is to drag the gear lever into the biggest badest cog 1st gear then select the gear U lookn for or engage the PTO then shift to neutral cya

But they still have Camelback suspension available