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Yes to feelers. Not trying to confuse you, just curious myself. My gut tells me you are good. Especially with your skills. Im also assuming you have long feelers or metal shim paper like I have. Ill take a break for a bit. Still waiting for other comments.

I would imagine the bent window, then the latches, followed by the glass etc Paul

This also applies to Venezuela

Guess I'm confused....why? I bore gaged the cylinder and miced the piston. I have clearances that I question. Are you thinking I should use feeler gages?

What goes back in first the door panel completely assembled with glass, door latches or the vent window in?

I’m restoring my B87 tractor.I’m at the point of putting the door glass and door latches back in the door panel.My question is do I have to put the vent window in first or can I do it after I put the panel in first before the vent window.

I presume that Iowa 80, Mideastern, Wildwood FL, and the other big chrome shops only stock for newer trucks. Try contacting one of our ATHS chapter members, Lewis Cantrell, d/b/a DTP Chrome Shop in Spartanburg SC. dptinc@hotmail.com Lewis has an old 48 foot movers trailer which is a display unit inside and he attends / sells at many of the truck shows in the southeast. He might be able to help you out???

I may be wasting your time, but since they are 1 pc. Pistons, can you slide a ring less piston in to take the measurements?

Gotcha.

I'm just concerned because the bores are -.0015/.002 undersize currently. It would have another .002 clearance if the bores were "on size". The new piston number doesn't mean anything to me and of course it doesn't match the 50 yr old book.

Cuba lived, for many years, on large amounts of OIL and MONEY from Venezuela. In return, Cuba provided 'Security Services' for the last two Venezuelan dictators, BUT NOT ANYMORE!" "THERE WILL BE NO MORE OIL OR MONEY GOING TO CUBA - ZERO! I strongly suggest they make a deal, BEFORE IT IS TOO LATE." President Trump

Fjh... youre always that guy.... 🍻

Nope I not that guy! Sorry! No brain function today!🙄 This is another it ran before it will run again sinario!

The truck looks cool! You will be a lucky guy purchasing it! I too wish that for you! I'd like to own one also some day. But so far it's only drool! The sleeper you have was made by Able Body. At least judging by the pics. As you can see it has two cut outs for the exhaust mufflers. The LH one was gone in unknown direction. Or possibly the sleeper has come from another truck which had two stacks and yours had one. Speaking the matter you asked I doubt you'll be able to find stainless skirds for that sleeper. They seem existing in the past but during my observations on different on-line truck accesory shops in the last 15 years I haven't seen any offers on those. Also a point is a R-model cab is not designed well to acomoddate straight skirds. It has rounded rocker panels which wouldn't suit flat boards. Or at least they would look wierd there. For my needs I fabricated stainless skirds for a sleeper but declined idea putting them on the cab. Sure that was a matter of my taste. Fabrication of stainless parts turned out into more complicated deal as it looked to me originally. The material is harder than common steel so you need high quality drill bits and notable amount of labour to attach marker lamps. The truck on the picture (not mine unfortunately) has a sleeper similar to yours. It's Able Body, I checked it out in person, there's a tag riveted to the back wall. As you can see there are stainless skirds attached to the bunk only and they look nice. I don't know where the owner accuired them from. Of what I know definitely they were put in place a long while back. Too possibly they're hand made.

I dont know, but it looks like the range is .0025" avg. Does measuring the new bore and the new pistons give you the answer? I should assume you did that. Sorry, scratching my head too.. I hope another guy sees this to answer you. Maybe, fjh, or mechohaulic, MarkT, ....

A couple more pics from the net representing the subject. It's an L-model not a B. But about the similar time frame. If you look well you can note the U-bolt passes a hole in the chassis skird at the inner side of the frame rail. I expect of your truck also having those holes in the corresponded areas.

Im concerned about the new piston. What should the clearance be? Old piston is A-5213 562

Isnt the part number stamped inside the old pistons ? I cant remember...

Ok, can anyone tell me what piston I am using compared to chart in book? I am still questioning the clearances. I am in the .005-.006 range. Hate to find out I need .010!

Waiting to pick that up before installing rods. I wish the book gave you the dimensions as I would make my own. They just show a picture of it.

Do you have the piston cooler target plate?

Chipping away. Have three rod assemblies ready for install. I had to file a few rings to get to minimal .013 ring gap. Might have been "ok" but I gave it a few more. Tolerance is .013-025. Last thing I need is to break a ring due to closure of gap. Yikes. Got front cover and side covers glued on. All bolts call for "nylon", so they got blue loktite. They had blue residue on the threads when I cleaned them. Using High tack on gaskets so they should never leak! Will finish cleaning the side of the block below the covers and around accy drive.

I just looked and I do have some 680 jake brake housing and parts

that truck looks like some time spent detailing would be weell worth it.

Well I got the top of the engine back together. I sand blasted and painted some parts. Thought it might look good. It fired right up. My match marks on the distributors worked great. Time for some cold 🍺... I still have to do the water pump and then I good test drive.