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It is all Mack parts. My concern is the liners being almost -.002 undersize from book spec after installation. Why? Manufacturing? I had .0015-.002 shrink and the book calls for .001 clearance to .-001 shrink. It squeezed them a bit. Then the pistons being +.001/.0015 larger then old pistons. It all adds up to tighter fit. The book has a wide variation, so what is right? That is all I question. I have slipped pistons in the bore(had to to be able to check ring gap). They fit, it isn't that tight. Like I said, I don't want to gall a liner and tear it apart again. This is all just the anal "wannabee" machinist in me. I'm all for hacking shit that doesn't matter. Engine work is a not that.

Thanks for that…. All that unnecessary mess . For a filthy thug.. that coulda been easily avoided… just get in the car … what’s the problem … I could only get thru half of it … bob

So i see did you check the ring gap in the bores and you did have to file some ends! If you didnt file too much I would put this question in a a dark corner and move on! You can stew for ever on this ! Joey mentioned putting in a piston with out rings that is a good thought! But what is the min- max measurement with that method just a gut feel ! I have a gut feel as well and it is if it ran before it will run again ! if these pistons are NEW Mack pistons or the old ones they will be fine if they came with a kit they should be fine if they are what you ordered! Just ME!

Pretty sure the vent window frame needs to be in first as the front of the side window glass rides in track that is part of the vent window frame.

Not sure what’s up with PBS removing… in my area it’s nothing but clean wholesome viewing and lotsa fun shows… Bob

Sorry I’m only familiar with R doors … sure someone knows . With them partially hang window unit close connect pull rod to latch then install latch and push window unit in vent goes in first maybe that helps

If you haven't watched it, do so.

Oooooooohhhh I forgot all about him…. But yes I do remember him … thanks for the memories babba and it looks like he shopped at the same store as I do … come on????????

I had some nice memory pictures come up on Facebook today, here's one of the last time I saw hatcity (Ed Ackell) in sunny Florida. Me and Zina met him at a nice seafood restaurant for lunch, we had a great visit and Ed was a great guy. We stopped by some beach and saw some folks enjoying themselves, a couple of girls taking pictures and a couple just strolling by. Meanwhile, back in the cold Midwest it looks like a girl was changing a headlight in the truck stop parking lot.

I am just confused why feelers would be more accurate then using micrometers and a bore gauge. Both should give the same basic results if done correctly. Unfortunately I don't have long feeler gauges, as I have never had a need for them. I measured the old pistons and they are 4.867/4.868. Those were running on a bore of 4.875(on size and negligible wear). That gives it +.003 more clearance on average. Maybe I am splitting hairs but I don't want to have to do this twice! Thousandths make a difference.

Yes to feelers. Not trying to confuse you, just curious myself. My gut tells me you are good. Especially with your skills. Im also assuming you have long feelers or metal shim paper like I have. Ill take a break for a bit. Still waiting for other comments.

I would imagine the bent window, then the latches, followed by the glass etc Paul

This also applies to Venezuela

Guess I'm confused....why? I bore gaged the cylinder and miced the piston. I have clearances that I question. Are you thinking I should use feeler gages?

What goes back in first the door panel completely assembled with glass, door latches or the vent window in?

I’m restoring my B87 tractor.I’m at the point of putting the door glass and door latches back in the door panel.My question is do I have to put the vent window in first or can I do it after I put the panel in first before the vent window.

I presume that Iowa 80, Mideastern, Wildwood FL, and the other big chrome shops only stock for newer trucks. Try contacting one of our ATHS chapter members, Lewis Cantrell, d/b/a DTP Chrome Shop in Spartanburg SC. dptinc@hotmail.com Lewis has an old 48 foot movers trailer which is a display unit inside and he attends / sells at many of the truck shows in the southeast. He might be able to help you out???

I may be wasting your time, but since they are 1 pc. Pistons, can you slide a ring less piston in to take the measurements?

Gotcha.

I'm just concerned because the bores are -.0015/.002 undersize currently. It would have another .002 clearance if the bores were "on size". The new piston number doesn't mean anything to me and of course it doesn't match the 50 yr old book.

Cuba lived, for many years, on large amounts of OIL and MONEY from Venezuela. In return, Cuba provided 'Security Services' for the last two Venezuelan dictators, BUT NOT ANYMORE!" "THERE WILL BE NO MORE OIL OR MONEY GOING TO CUBA - ZERO! I strongly suggest they make a deal, BEFORE IT IS TOO LATE." President Trump

Fjh... youre always that guy.... 🍻

Nope I not that guy! Sorry! No brain function today!🙄 This is another it ran before it will run again sinario!

The truck looks cool! You will be a lucky guy purchasing it! I too wish that for you! I'd like to own one also some day. But so far it's only drool! The sleeper you have was made by Able Body. At least judging by the pics. As you can see it has two cut outs for the exhaust mufflers. The LH one was gone in unknown direction. Or possibly the sleeper has come from another truck which had two stacks and yours had one. Speaking the matter you asked I doubt you'll be able to find stainless skirds for that sleeper. They seem existing in the past but during my observations on different on-line truck accesory shops in the last 15 years I haven't seen any offers on those. Also a point is a R-model cab is not designed well to acomoddate straight skirds. It has rounded rocker panels which wouldn't suit flat boards. Or at least they would look wierd there. For my needs I fabricated stainless skirds for a sleeper but declined idea putting them on the cab. Sure that was a matter of my taste. Fabrication of stainless parts turned out into more complicated deal as it looked to me originally. The material is harder than common steel so you need high quality drill bits and notable amount of labour to attach marker lamps. The truck on the picture (not mine unfortunately) has a sleeper similar to yours. It's Able Body, I checked it out in person, there's a tag riveted to the back wall. As you can see there are stainless skirds attached to the bunk only and they look nice. I don't know where the owner accuired them from. Of what I know definitely they were put in place a long while back. Too possibly they're hand made.

I dont know, but it looks like the range is .0025" avg. Does measuring the new bore and the new pistons give you the answer? I should assume you did that. Sorry, scratching my head too.. I hope another guy sees this to answer you. Maybe, fjh, or mechohaulic, MarkT, ....