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9-2 code.pdf

I have posted the ''pin-out'' charts in case you need to I.D. the circuits. I also posted the 9-2 code info to use to guide you through checking the grounds.

luv it !! fjh

This happens on the forward side when you don't have free pedal on the clutch ! I have a habit! I open the drivers door put my hand on the clutch pedal I then know what to expect when I go to move the truck! I also now Can Nag at to whom ever owns the truck to adjust the dam thing for that very reason! One of my many pet peeves!

have you checked the fuel pressure ???

can you post a picture looking up into the clutch access hole need to verify which clutch you have!

driver really really needed to pee!!!! 😁

Ok guys just another little update on the Cruiseliner transformation...we have almost all mechanical work done except our clutch throw out bearing needs adjusting as its has 3/4in gap instead of 1/2in, can anyone advise us on the proper way to do this?....The truck is running and driving again so whats left to do??? We have to rewire rear lights fit headlights fit bumper and we are still looking for tyres.The cab has to be retrimed inside to match the movie truck and the stripes/signwriteing have to be applied.We are delighted we have come so far this year and hope to finnish the truck for the show season starting April'26.We thank all of you for your help with our truck,couldnt have done it without you guys...Heres a few pictures of how it has turned out so far including some experimenting with differen light/shadows. Paul

You could be right with that but on our Cruiseliner low/high beam and parking light works on all 4 headlamps so we are leaving it like that!!!! Paul

It could be bound up with paint maybe ?

I have a library nearby, how good it is I am not sure. It is worth a shot. Thanks for the suggestion.

The steering gear was leaking by the input shaft. I was told I could take the top off and replace the seals. After removing the top I discovered the shaft had a groove in it. On these forums the only option after finding the groove I saw was to buy another gear. I tried putting JB Weld in the groove and turning it back down on a lathe, installed new seals. It held for a few minutes then started leaking again. Removed shaft again, installed wear sleeve and new seals. I ran it about two hours and it started leaking again. I searched for days and could only find one gear through Watts Truck. Weller would reman one for me but they had to have mine first so that would be a drawn out deal. So I have ordered the one through Watts. It was $2500. I called a few salvage yards and could not find one. Several places I called wouldn’t even bother to answer the phone or call back after I left a message. I had considered taking the shaft to a machine shop, have the groove welded up and then turned down but was not sure about the integrity of the shaft after doing that. Anyone ever done that before? Is there anyone on these forums with a RD688 that has had this same experience? If so what did you do?

I sure doubt if it is the air conditioner!!!! I see a cable hooked to the tow eye,, Is there another truck pulling????

Paul, I replace the seal, and the unit is entirely brand new. The hinge itself moved what I’d considered normal, but I will try to lube it up real good tomorrow. I’ll double check as well and make sure it’s not all bound up. If I am hearing some sort of function from the driver seat when I move the switch, would that indicate everything under the dash is working properly, and potentially the vent itself is bound up?

I'm thinking high beam, low beam and parking light in the lower light and the upper is high beam only Paul

I'm thinking a squirt of normal engine oil would help a lot as the seal is probably dry as chips Paul

I had to call her an early night as we are in the beginning of an ice storm up here in the mitten state. After work tomorrow I’m going to the hardware store because amongst the chaos in the shop, I put my wiper arm nuts in the wrong special spot so I could remember where I put them. So with any luck, would any of you gentlemen/ladies off the top of your head by chance know what size/thread/all that fun jazz nuts I need? It stalled progress tonight and that’s the only thing keeping it in the shop as of the moment lol. Thank you all!

So my r model project is almost complete. Down to buttoning up a little bit of this and a little bit of that. This things been both a dream, and a headache. But it’s gonna be worth it. Anyways. I bought a new cowl bent as my other one was brittle and broken and the hinge had seized. When I brought the truck home, the vent was disconnected already. Nonetheless, I hooked up the linkage, and aired the truck up to check my cab ride height. Looks good. When I slide the switch over, it clicks, makes the “door” of the vent budge a small bit, and that’s it. I decided to call it a night. I am seeking knowledge from the Mack community on what to look for, after I get out of work tomorrow. I’ll unhook it to start and see if the linkage moves. To be fair I don’t know how these work, and am absolutely willing to learn. Thank you, and i appreciate the future advice! God Bless.

The Cal Codes are important, but the engine will run good until it learns how its running. Not entering the Cal Codes is not the issue here..

So I have learn some read off the intake sensor and mine has no wiring or bracket for it just a pig tail zip tied and I get no blink code and my lightning bolt definitely works, but what would it do if the eup codes where not entered in the computer

A/C leaking water ?