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Dog Pound !

I've done this several times and I believe 73-10 Ohms should be correct for the sender. A quick google search says that's the range for the Stewart-Warner fuel gauge sender to make the gauge work. The other range is 240-30 Ohms. The Stewart-Warner Technical sight says 73-10 for the 82342 gauge unit. Now you just need to get the right length sender for the tank. They all come with some adjustment to calibrate the sender to the tank.

Paul, I sure would like to be able to come Down Under for the Mack Muster, BUT many circumstances will not allow it.. If any of you other BMT member think you can make it plan on spending at least two weeks in Australia. There are many private collections and several "just tourist" things to do. If you PM me I can send you the email address of the lady who designed our ATHS Down Under Tour.

Just read the instructions that came with liners. Protrusion is .002-.009 not the .0035-.0075 in the Mack manual. Guess the .010 I have is close enough.

Crank does have a wear ring installed.

The rear main seal may offer 2 options. 1 without a wear ring and 1 with a wear ring. The seal itself is different. Just FYI

The mains are all rolled in. I only pulled them to 50# currently just to seat them. I need to borrow a friends big boy torque wrench as mine only goes to 150#. I might as well wait until the rods are in and I can torque it all up then. Cranks spins effortlessly with just a finger on a rod journal. Nice. I have rear seal plate washed up and ready for new seal. Oh, ya, I asked if it came with the kit. Ya, it was " supposed to" .....but it doesn't. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦. Just another $50 probably. Christ how worthless it is today dealing with very unknowledgeable people just starting out because all the older folks retired and left a HUGE gap of information. Next big hurdle: To get the bores cleaned up one last time, check liners and wash them to get ready for installation. The Mack books says they should slip in 1/2-2/3 way and whack them the rest of the way. Yikes. No, not doing it that way.

Randy, You did a great job on the Prime Rib!!!! Looks done, but still pink enough in the center to be tender.

Hey Mack fans, The countdown is on, with 81 days until one of the best weekends of the year!!! Don’t forget to lock the 21st and 22nd of March 2026 into your calendars, to get your Macks to Kyabram!! 📅 We hope that everyone had a very Merry Christmas, and here’s looking forward to what 2026 brings! 🎄✨ Sad to Glad!! 🐶🚛: The news of the legendary B Model being replaced came as quite a shock to many passionate Mack owners. Why change such a tough, reliable Bulldog? was the loud cry back in 1966. Mack Trucks Australia certainly heard that feedback and responded with ads and brochures explaining the move to the R Series, reassuring owners that there were BIG improvements to be had — 22 of them, in fact. Best of all, the traditional and trusted Mack components remained: the Mack 711 engine, Quad box transmission, and those famously tough axles and suspensions. Truly the best of both worlds. The brawny new shape of the R Series, according to Mack, said “Truck” with a capital T. With the R Series, Mack claimed it was more than ever the MAN’s TRUCK — bold words indeed! History proved that chest-beating was well founded, with the R Series going on to become the most popular model ever produced by the Bulldog breed. 💪🐶 Paul

Vlad brings up a good point.. Differences in the hood.. I am NOT familiar enough with the differences between butterfly and tilt hoods on Macks to give you an answer.. BUT I know that the R model Mack style Sheller Globe cab that Brockway used had a different cowl for their butterfly hood and are NOT totally interchangeable with the Mack cab with a tilt nose..

I did finally figure out how the top of the regulator attaches. You have to take the mirror bracket off. Underneath the bracket there are two more screws that hold it in place.

I forgot to add that the fuel pressure regulator is the 45 degree fitting that i said you can 'T' into... if the fuel pressure is low, towards 60 or less and you are not making oil do to fuel dilution, then you need to replace that regulator... then go from there with road tests...

Okay that is awesome thank you and I chased the wires out of the computer for the ambient air temp sensor and it was the ones I suspected that are dead head with a empty plug in the end

Apgar bro's

Yeah she looks a whole lot different now.Its plain we are doing a replica of Pig Pens truck from Convoy.The underside of the cab is bare aluminum.We soaked it in a 50/50 mix of vinegar and warm water then power hosed it off.Then we rubbed it down with 120 grit scotch cloths and WD 40.It came up nice and clean but still some areas to finnish.The red patchs you can see are steel and will be painted aluminum..... Paul

Brother, headache is an understatement! But it’s all coming together one piece at a f….. frustrating time lol. Yes it is air operated and I wish mine was a hand crank for simplicity sake, but here we are. I enjoy it just as much as I despise it at times. Hopefully soon she’ll be on her own merry way barking all over the county!

i think resers potato salad is what we usually buy

lol must be a newer design,,,,my 66 is a hand crank,,,im assuming you have an air operated one,,,, i like the part about a headache,,,,seems the more i fix on mine,,,,the more i find wrong with it,,good luck bob

If it is a Shepard gear, I think the correct repair is to cut the shaft to a smaller OD and shrink a sleeve on where the seal rides. You could possibly have the sleeve made from hard chrome stock, making the repair better than the original. These repairs need a qualified machine shop that can do the work. It would take tooling that can cut the hard shaft and sleeve. I was working on a car that had some brake parts that are NLA anywhere, my machine shop made a repair like the above and was surprisingly reasonable. You just have to think "outside the box" and remember anything made by man can be re-made by man.