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Fortunately My Mom & Dad took a lot of pictures as I was growing up, and it seems like I inherited that same trait,, if I take a picture of a truck or vehicle I try to put someone in the picture like they did,, it means so much more years later. ,, Top left is My Dad and Me in front of a old Plymouth he had in the mid 60s , notice trucking hat & cast on his arm, he broke his wrist helping my Grandfather put a clutch in a car ,, he did some trimming on it because he never missed a day of work,, he still drove a B Model and shifted a duplex with it . The color picture to the right is him and the B Model,, I had it colorized and blown up, the other with 3 black and white small pictures are Dad and Me, old Hennis Freight pictures from the early 60s . The other color picture is Dad and Kyle at the National Truck Show in Greensboro in 1999 in front of a ( unknown owner) LJ . Thanks for the interest,, I have blown up so many and framed them I ran out of room to hang them.

Good points at the end. Too bad you cant buy a new input shaft.... feeling safe is tops..

Not sure what you mean about stripping the shaft inside and out. When I removed the shaft we had to remove the bottom retaining “plate” and then the seals were under that with a washer that had a groove around the edge at the top of the seal area. The seals outside were removed too. I believe there was one seal and a dust seal outside. I ordered a reman gear through Watts Truck. I tried to find one in salvage and other reman shops but never did. Being the age of these boxes I don’t know what shape it would have been in anyway coming from a salvage yard. I was going to do machine work on the shaft, build it up and turn it back down. After reading the comments on here, if I understand correctly, it seems the correct was is to turn the shaft down to the bottom of the groove and reseal. The groove was fairly deep so I don’t know about machining on it. In the end I have to feel safe driving the truck and not worry about that shaft. I am disappointed that I could not simply buy a replacement shaft. If they reman the boxes why can’t they just reman the shaft? Money? Liability? Maybe combination of the two?

When we put the sleeve on the shaft we ordered a sleeve to fit the sleeve and not the shaft so I wouldn’t think we stretched it too much. However I am not sure if the seal that was installed was meant for the higher pressure in the gear box. The groove in the shaft was large and I after I thought about it awhile I just decided to find a reman and not machine it. Mistake maybe. Costly yes. Thanks for the explanation.

Ok. So you did strip the input shaft cover inside an out. Too bad it wont hold. Im curious about your idea to weld it and turn it back down. Good luck....

I did remove all the seals down to a bare shaft. I don’t remember snap rings. I just bought this truck and it was leaking some around the shaft when I got it. I thought it was change the seals and be done. But I wasn’t aware that there maybe a groove worn in the shaft and that changed things. I had a man helping me that has done this type of work all his life and thought we had it back right but apparently not.

Paul confused us all with a couple pictures of his clutch. He's probably thinking " wtf did these guys do first time they got a look in a Playboy magazine ?" The 1/2" should be between where the bearing and clutch brake is where it would squeeze against the front of the transmission. Which we can't see that in the pictures. Gotta remember, the more the big ring is turned to adjust it, the less holding force the clutch has.

If there’s no air at the parking brake valve, the problem is likely upstream. The dash valve is usually fed from the primary air system through the parking protection valve, so check that the primary tank is building air and the PPV is opening. I’d also trace the supply line back for a missed, capped, or plugged line from reassembly.

On an ’84 R-Model this is almost always a ground issue or voltage back-feeding. All red lights with the circuit chaser usually indicate a poor cab, frame, or rear light ground, often from corrosion. The turn signal flashing red and green is a classic weak ground at the rear lamp housings or a bad cab-to-frame ground strap. I’d start by checking and cleaning the cab-to-frame ground, battery/frame grounds, and rear light grounds before chasing switches or wiring.

You could be right Joey,I thought the article I read said bearing to pressure plate but now I'll read it again tomorrow and see.......thanks Paul

The rod is pretty spot on with the door as far as movement goes. The linkage had a lot of slip out of the box but I shimmed that up nice. I just don’t understand how different it is means that the piston has nowhere near enough travel to open it fully. I’m bummed I spent the money on a new vent but at the same time, I don’t have any time to fabricate a goofy linkage with a big swingto Make it work as is. I guess it’ll be inop for awhile. It’s winter anyways lol

Can you see how much the rod moves before it starts to move the vent door??? Maybe the actuating piston is using up a lot of its travel to start opening the door????? A longer rod????

Many years ago my uncle and I was restoring an old hit and miss engine and the cylinder was rusted really bad so I clamped it onto the carriage of my American lathe and with a boring bar I made I bored the cylinder out and we used a heavy threaded rod and a couple of plates I turned and we pulled the liner in place it would of went easier if we froze the liner I didn't want to move the engine block until I bored the new liner to size for the cast iron piston it turned into a long day time we got done. My one worker did two cycle engine liner replacements I used my freezer and oven on those jobs. I did liner job on an old air cooled Gallaway hit and miss engine we stood it up on my bridgeport and bored it the liner was about 10 or so inches long I was a little tense doing the boring on that job

Yes it derated i abandoned the load guess im looking at an egr valve

Interesting... I never saw the adjustment gap related to the pressure plate, only between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake.... Well... I just learned something.

So, I have shimmed the rod as it had alotnof play in it (brand new, awesome…) and it opens 1/4 of the way it’s supposed to. The piston rod evidently isn’t long enough to fully open the vent.

Thanks for the replys guys.On the build sheet for our Cruiseliner the clutch is described as a 14 inch twin dry plate self adjusting Spicer/Dana unit.When we got the truck there was no free play at the pedal.I removed the small plate with the 2 bolts and the small adjuster cog behind it which was stuck with dust.I then adjusted the larger adjuster wheel by tapping gently on the teeth with a screwdriver/rubber mallet untill I got 1 3/4in free play at the pedal.I found nothing that even looks like a clutch brake or parts of one in the bell houseing.Did it ever have one or was it removed by someone else?? I dont know. However my question is not clutch adjustment but trow out bearing adjustment.Iv read the trow out bearing should have a 1/2in gap between it and the pressure plate but ours is 3/4in. The clutch is working fine as it is with no grinding going into gear moving off.....maybe I should just leave well enough alone??? Paul

Turds!!!!!

It may derate you may be fine to get home with it!

I have resorted to an impact chisel for these ! I have a 16 inch one just for this job! They can get nasty seized !

I have 1 if Missouri isn't too far away.

Maybe Dean can take a picture of the picture in the top left corner and give us some information???

I made a tool for that. Sometimes the ring isn't very cooperative.

I have actually adjusted one or two of these easier to remove it more room to work! If the ring will move is another issue! When we get our worker back he can decide!😂🙄