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I just realized that the radiator sides are different, the drivers side is aluminum and the passenger side is magnetic, probably cast iron I guess. Was cast iron standard and aluminum optional?

https://www.breitbart.com/politics/2025/04/03/watch-nancy-pelosi-in-1996-assails-u-s-free-trade-with-china-is-this-reciprocal/

https://aucwell95.en.made-in-china.com/product/imLRCDIuuQpz/China-Aucwell-Latest-Model-D07-Electric-Van-Factory-Directly-Supply-Wholesale-Cargo-Van-100km-H.html?pv_id=1inv6b2pf54e&faw_id=1inv6csej593

The chassis is a Ford Transit. So imagine that the powertrain module is under that front hood.

Why does an electric truck have a hood? Shouldn't it be a cab-forward design?

Ha ha I don’t know they’re nice looking vans and they seem to have a lot of them

The air control is supposed to be able to feather the body down but that's a fairy tale. I put a one way restriction valve at the pump. Full flow going up and adjustable flow going down.

Post your solution to the selenium unit when you get to that point.

I bet it was a DM. The wing window sits notoriously close to the steering wheel, I know I clipped my pinky on ours a few times. Don't think I ever had that issue on our R models.

I won't ask you how you know that! 4th is the most I ever had opportunity to try 🤣🤣

Next update. Thanks to the user posts here on Leece-Neville Alternator/Rectifier/Regulator systems, our truck has been converted from Positive ground to Negative ground. It was rather easy thanks to Leece-Neville alternators NOT using "case ground" methods. The rotor coils and also the output coils are isolated, and the regulator only maintains a voltage level and since the alternator make AC voltage (3-phase at that), the output of the regulator is not polarity sensitive. Only had to swap the rectifier output wires. Also had to also swap wires on the ammeters (A & B ) so it responds correctly. The water temp and Fuel gauges were bad and are disconnected. And since the starter is not a permanent magnet motor, it also is not polarity sensitive. Pictures: The rectifier before & after (note: we're upgrading away from Selenium). Notice the cloth on the thicker wires and you will see they are switched. And one of the alternator with labels added.

Rivian I think..and aren't they up to their ass in alligators??

I don’t know a whole lot about the movie or the truck. I did see it once a long, long time ago, but does anybody know why it has a +3 cab and a plastic dashboard when it supposedly a 1970? I should just buy the damn book. I am not much of a reader, but the wife is always on me about starting good to exercise your brain. Yes I agree with her.

More updates. We have two air tanks and there appears to be a check valve between them. But, the air pressure gauge only had one of the two needles/lines/ports connected. So, I was able to find unused 1/4" air lines (I believe from a air valve at bottom/under the dash that is long gone) and there was a plugged port on a fitting between the tanks. And presto dual air gauge works.

DM800guy, We're looking for one. Message sent.

All, In the stuff we received from the Mack Museum, here a list of B85F's from 1200 to 1219, on a form called "CHASSIS REGISTER". It was handwritten and a little hard to read, so I typed it up and did a screen shot. Note: there are 3 chassis that were not on the list, 1203, 1217 & 1218. And for people in the future searching the internet to find their truck: B85F-1200 , B85F-1201 , B85F-1202 , B85F-1204 , B85F-1205 , B85F-1206 , B85F-1207 , B85F-1208 , B85F-1209 , B85F-1210 , B85F-1211 , B85F-1212 , B85F-1213 , B85F-1214 , B85F-1215 , B85F-1216 , B85F-1219

that was just creepy

Glad to hear the problem is solved. That old valve at the right of the picture - can't you take it apart and check the inside out? There must be a sort of spring and a plunger/ball/a diaphragm which could be bad.

Interesting. Thank you for explanations. A plan is to take the governor apart to sandblast and paint the housing. But I don't know if I can do that and keep the key mech parts together to not loose settings. Or set them back in. Another task was to increase the RPM's up to 2300 since that's a hobby truck and I'd like to rev it up between shiftings sometimes. I asked the pump guy on my desires but he explained the matters only in general. He's not a specialist in Mack pumps/governors and I'm pretty sure there are neither of them in all the country. But he's very experienced fuel tech and said he could do the job if the settings are known. But they are not.

June 13 & 14 Friday & Saturday

haha,,,,stuff drives you nuts,,,mine does the same thing ,,,but i know what it is,just havent done anything with it yet,,,glad you got it figured out

Yeah, the throttle shaft controls the spring tension. The weights are fighting with the spring like a tug of war. The spring is fighting to increase the speed, the weights are fighting to decrease the speed. Putting your foot on the throttle makes the springs pull a little harder

Ok, so actually it turns out the weights try to pull the fuel rack back but you add pre-load to the spring just by your foot moving the linkage further up?

Moving the throttle shaft more increases the spring preload. The flyweights try to move outwards, and the spring tension pulls them back in. The centrifugal force pulls the weights out harder as the speed increases. The weights moving outward pulls the fuel rack back

Yes, now I remember that dowel. That time I didn't reset/check the timing. Just needed to get the truck yard driving (actually to take it off the street into my property. One plunger got stuck and I couldn't get it free until took the pump off the engine.