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and some holes drilled in the sides to releive wind pressure would not be a bad idea either.

yes. it fit perfectly with betterrer. "a longerish beem fits the opening betterrer"🤣

Closing off the back end will help as well as keeping debris from blow in. Cables in an X with turnbuckles to tension will do a good job as well. Closed back end with X cables would be the best.

I remember I think TJC corrected something I did wrong or maybe mark T

Ya I think sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn’t

I thought I had too, I was thinking when you tapped "edit" it gave you the option to "delete post" too, but I guess not.

I did what Larry suggested and it looks like the pictures are back, I haven't put any cables in the carport yet. I was thinking of putting an X brace in the far end, never considered the sides.

No suggestion in your issue sorry tom good luck … but I did delete a tread before… I didn’t have any trouble.. but I don’t remember what I did

Go back and edit and erase the extra link codes, that should help with the pictures. The codes are piggybacked . Go to the "jpg" and erase after it in each line. I agree with Vlad. Get some 3/16" steel cable and some hooks and some turn buckles. Go diagonal along the sides and across the ends. That should stiffen it. That is how real steel buildings are erected. Our shop has them except they are like 3/4" rods. Big. And on windy days they clank as the building moves.

Yup. Or just cross ropes. I mean for instance a steel (SS or galvanized) cord put from front lower to back upper corners with screw tie ups incorporated. A couple to each side and a pair crossing each other at the back end. Sorry I'm blind posting the advice, can't see the pics.

"Longerish". Is that a technical term?

Yes sir I took off this year on Friday and was wanting to see more b-models up close to get a better view on some of the ponents.

Tiz a bugger getting old and technology beating us ha ha Lots of braces needed to stop movement Paul

I somehow made a double post and I tried to delete one, but that seems to have failed too.

Dunno, can't see no photos here to add comments to Paul

I think the corner braces are too short. Maybe install some that are 18" or a bit more longerish, mounted at the same spot near the wall and then mounted to the rafter where it lies. It should still offer good clearence when you pull a truck in close to the sides...

I've got this carport And when the wind blows it sways back and forth probably 6-8 inches at the top. Today I got in the big green International that runs now and it swayed over against the door so tight I couldn't even move the door. It's normally about this far away. So I'm wondering if I should ignore it, or add some braces to stiffen it up some, or take take some pieces of the siding off so the wind can blow through. Anybody got any thoughts?

nothing to see here, can't delete the dreaded double post...

The alum steers and painted drives would be period correct with painted steel trailer wheels... Unless you but a trailer with Alum rims!!!

oh

No!!! Alu fronts correspond with the alu tanks. And the rears are asking to complete the line. If the truck has tandems they could be different than the front. Or you can paint the fronts white and the tanks either. But you'd get the look of more like a fridge than a fashioned highway truck.

Can't I just paint the front ones white?

Welcomer to the forum! I have a couple of cents to toss in the ring regarding your ideas. 1st there was a guy on the forum who added airbags to the stock front axle of his 2nd generation Superliner. As long as I remember all 3 leaves rested in place and the bags were put in between the axle beam and bottom sides of the frame rails. The 2nd is I have a MH-model which normally (to my understanding) must have 3 leaves in each front spring as your truck. But that truck has only two leaves. I haven't checked the thicknesses yet so keep wondering of if springs of Vision-model (2 leaves) were used or just the 3rd leaf removed. But I have the truck driven for about 1600km when moved it to my place and found nothing extraordinar in riding. Ok, a cherry on the top of the cake - front shocks were not taking place there at all. Vlad

And Tom, if you're going to keep the Mack... Alloy rear wheels are needed to take place. Those white steel ones conflict with the fronts about the look.