Jump to content

Phyrphighter

Puppy Poster
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Phyrphighter

  • Birthday 01/19/1965

Location

  • Location
    Central NY

Profile Fields

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

2,328 profile views

Phyrphighter's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. 1935 Chevrolet Fire Truck - just less than 20 feet long, 80 inches wide, 87 inches high approx 7000 lbs. Looking for an enclosed haul from Belle Plaine, MN to Liverpool, NY. Ready Now
      • 1
      • Like
  2. Name: Mack Type 80 LS (1942) Date Added: 05 August 2008 - 04:55 AM Owner: phyrphighter Short Description: 1942 Mack 80 LS Fire pumper 80 LS 1084. Originally East Syracuse, NY Engine 1 750 GPM Hale ZD Pump View Vehicle
  3. [Hello, Thanks for writing. I do have all the paperwork from the Mack museum regarding my Mack showing it to be a 1942. Could the slide be mislabled? I would love to obtain the image you have. If there is anything I can provide for your database please let me know Barry Lasky "quote name=FDNYTRUCKScom' date='11 January 2011 - 01:36 PM] Hi, I@[twitter]' class="bbc_url">@' class="bbc_url">@[twitter] maintain the Mack Fire Apparatus databases, and we would like to add this to our listing. I have a slide of a L model from East Syracuse marked Engine 1, but it has a date of 1948. I can send it to you if you would like, it might be your rig, most of the details are exact, but there are some differences. let me know if you would like the image. thanks in advance! Mike Martinelli www.fdnytrucks.com
  4. Hello all, I am attempting to remove the gauges from the dash of my 1942 LS type 80 pumper to have them refurbished. The only thing holding that up right now is I cannot figure out how to remove the copper line that goes from near the head of the engine to the back of the "temp" gauge. When I loosen the nut on the back of the gauge, the line does not to seem to come out and the entire gauge is loose within the mount. On the engine end there seems to be two things I can put a wrench on at the sender- when I loosen the smaller one, I still cannot seem to pull the copper line free of the engine. When I loosen the larger one, I end up with the entire sending unit out of the engine ( and antifreeze comming out). Is there a way to remove this sending unit at the back of the gauge ? Barry Lasky
  5. Stopped at my local NAPA yesterday and found that mine has the Rotella oils available in single weight (gallons) and on the shelf.
  6. Thanks for all the suggestions and information. I did get the Clutch done in my garage with the help of a friend ( I should say GOOD friend cause nothing is lightweight in that job !) It was reletively problem free working on my concrete garage floor with a good tranny jack. I bought a clutch alignment tool (plastic) that made that part a breeze. It took a little patients to get everything lined up to put it back in but we got it, its all adjusted and working well ! Barry (L) AKA Phyrphighter
  7. I also use hagerty and pay around $115 a year in Central NY
  8. Sorry, I just found youre question about the electrical connecter burried in my E-Mail. I don't have any access to the connecter but I could take photos and post them or send them to you so you know what your looking for. Drop me a note if you need them.
  9. My 42 Mack 80 LS works exactly as you suspect. I turn on the battery with one switch then there are two that pull out for the ignition ( 1 for each of the two ignition systems) Over each of these pull out ignition switches is a round red bezel that lights up when you pull out the switch below it indicating that paticular ignition is on. You may be on the right track thinking that one of the switches is "stuck" in the on position. I do notice that if my rig is running on one ignition, it sounds like it runs a little different when I pull out the other switch. Barry
  10. Thanks for the info so far guys. My garage does have a concrete floor and I have access to a 2000lb tranny jack ..... I also have both the Mack and the Motors manuals.... I have talked to a friend at a local truck garage here and he is checking to see if his garage will do it. but I really think I may be able to do it myself. Gonna get the clutch ordered at least. Does the throwout bearing need to be pressed off ?? if so - I may have an issue .
  11. Hello All ! I have a 42 LS80. The clutch is on the end of its servicable life. I have located a remanufactured clutch and pressure plate for just over $500.00. Sound fair ?? also - have any of you changed one of these? I am mechanically handy but I am not sure if i should attempt this or find someone to do it for me. Thanks Barry
  12. Hello All, First - thanks for previous help from the people here. I have figured out that I had two problems that kept me from getting my 1942 80 LS into pump gear. One was a linkage adjustment so that it would come out of prime when put into pump. The other problem that I still have is that the vacuum cylinder that should pull the clutch out when you are changing the lever from "prime" to "pump" and so on is leaking and needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I have 18 inches of vaccum at the connection to the cylinder so I know that it is leaking. Does anyone know where to find one or get one repaired? Is it possible to do myself? In the parts list this is part # 45 RJ 21 Pump Shift Booster Cylinder. Thanks Barry
  13. I have a recently aquired 1942 Mack LS type 80 with vacuum assisted brakes. While investigating why this rig was so hard to stop I have found that I am missing the linkage that runs from the vacuum assist cylinder near the rear of my truck to the “power lever” near the master cylinder. Do you have – or do you know where I might find this linkage ? Also - Does anyone have or rebuild the vacuum components if i find they are unusable ? Finding the linkage is Job 1. I have attached a diagram showing what I need.
×
×
  • Create New...