kennylane

Name: Mack CF-600 (1972) Date Added: 27 June 2008 - 05:15 PM Owner: Kenny Lane Short Description: 1,000 GPM fire engine, 60,000 actual miles, 673 diesel, 5 speed transmission View Vehicle

I have a 1972 CF-600 Mack with the same engine I believe and it's on the passenger side of the engine on mine.

Look closely all around the handle where it goes over the shaft. See if there is a round drive pin that goes through the handle, the shaft, and the handle again on the other side. It could possibly be threaded but I'll bet you drive it out with a punch. I hope this helps.

I had the same problem with my 72 Mack. I had no luck in Nashville finding lenses that fit the body. I had to replace the entire assembly.

I'm in the market for a used Federal Q siren for my Mack. Is anyone aware of any bargains? I know a bargain on a Q is unheard of but if you're aware of one in need of re-chroming at a decent price please let me know. The chromed bullet is not important because I plan to mount it in the front panel and that area is recessed behind the panel.

Allison...you were in the right place to add oil. The bottom plug is to drain the oil and the top plug is to add it. How do you know it needs oil? If it comes out when you remove the plug it sounds like no oil is needed. If it were mine, I would remove both plugs to drain the gear box, replace the lower plug, and refill it through the top hole. Do not add it through the hole in the center of the wheel. <br /><br /><br />

I understand that a heater operates off of the hot water generated by cooling the engine. have a 1972 Mack CF-600 with a 673 diesel engine. Both of the valves that feed the heater core in the cab are open. Yet I get no heat in the cab. I first suspected the heater core, removed it, and water flows through it freely. The core looks like it was replaced not long ago. I see the temperature control valve in the cab opening when the temp control is pulled. Still no heat. When I feel of the heater hoses coming to the core, neither is hot. Has anyone got any suggestions? I've wondered if possibly one of the valves in the heater hose is turning but is still not opening. But I think I recall feeling of the hose past the valve and it was warm. What do you guys think. What am I missing?

I found one from an American LaFrance on Craig's List. After a little negotiating I bought it for $125. It had to be chromed but when finished I had just under $400 in the bell. I'm sure those kind of deals are few and far between though.

Can anyone tell me if the CF600 Mack fire apparatus had a negative or positive ground? Also can you tell me how to convert if it's positive ground? Are wiring diagrams available anywhere?

Does anyone have a source for original equipment gauges in a 1972 CF600 Mack Pumper? To be more specific, I'm in need of the battery condition gauge that monitors dual batteries.

Daniel, To get an accurate value of the truck, you need to ask a lot of questions. What is the condition of the trucks motor, transmission, fire pump, suspension and steering, booster tank, body, clutch, etc, etc, etc. I purchased a 1972 CF600 Mack with everything in working order and no major mechanical problems for $3,600. I may be interested in this truck if you are not if you would provide me with the contact information.

Adapt an old discharge cap to have an air chuck. Connect you air compressor to that cap and open that valve. Remove all intake and discharge caps. Then, with the entire system under air pressure, open one valve at a time, blow out the water, close the valve, and move to the next valve. Make sure you do this for all valves including tank fill and pump to tank. Also do the same with each drain valve including the main pump drain. You will sometimes have to wait on your compressor to catch up. Do this several times on all valves until you see no water being expelled when you open the valve. I hope this helps.

Bells of all kinds at this place. http://www.brosamersbells.com/fire/index.html

You failed to provide a lot of information that would be helpful. Regarding the engine, I would turn it over by hand with a socket on the front of the crank and a long pull bar. See how it feels. Is it seized up....or does the engine turn over with the same resistance at all points in the rotation? If it does not turn by hand or has hard spots when turning the crank, you probably have internal problems with the engine. Was the fuel tank closed or has it sat without a fuel cap? Are there obvious signs of rust when you look down the filler neck? If the truck has been in service, and the fuel tank has not been left open to the elements with no cap on it, I would add a limited amount of fuel along with a moisture treatment. I would then disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the fuel filter, and while someone turns the engine over, I'd catch the fuel in something so that I could examine it for contamination. If there is no debris and the fuel does not appear contaminated, I would connect the line back to the engine. I'm no mechanic...but growing up my Dad gave me a significant amount of common horse sense. I don't think what I am suggesting would heart anything. Let me know if I'm off base guys.