thomastractorsvc

If you are really going to make it nice take the hood and assorted parts to the local chrome guy and have them stripped then redone or if you have a good polish guy get that done. The hood piece is aluminum new like $999.00. If you need a two stack cut out sleeper with new vents and floor I got one for sale for what I got in pm and I will send you pictures. I was going to put on my 1978 but decided I couldn't cut the hole in the cab

The fan will spin when running but not be locked in. When it is locked in it gets full rpm blowing air over the radiator cooling it down and you can hear it blowing. I don't know if you can put a bolt in it to lock it up like you could on the cummins if you can I would do that. It will hurt you mpg but you won't be stopping every 20 minutes to check the temp on a 5 day drive at 40mph. BTW for as much as you have written you might want to contact Haggerty the are up in traverse city and maybe you can right a story for there old car magazine. Lots of car articles not much of trucks.

Where are you in Texas? Local Mack, Watts get an account with PAI Industries so you can look up parts don't forget ebay and other online venders. I use a local parts distributor for PAI I pay by credit card and they drop ship to my house usally 1 to 2 days depending what time it is

It was for a Hyundai Santa Fe. The part was made in the USA. Have to keep an eye on it. The only thing I didn't like about it is on one end it has two horizontal sits that help to pull it on. When I sinched it down, it puckered two small holes less than an 16th of an inch. I don't run the front under water so I am sure it will be fine.

I am surprised it was not left in the middle east, so it must have been a lease truck for DS/DS. Most of the commercial stuff that was bought for the war stayed in theater and ended up in Kuwait. I saw a lot of commercial OTR Trucks run by the NG units during the war. Then when I redeployed to Doha Kuwait about a year or so later, my unit ran a bunch of Steel Nose Macks that were probably mixer chassis with fifth wheels set up to pull 100 ton Kaylan low boys in support of the Engineers who were pushing up berms along the entire boarder with Iraq in an attempt to slow down the next invasion. Years later, I remember hauling equipment to punch holes in it out in the middle of nowhere so we could invade Iraq.

I found a boot at the parts store cost about $7. I installed it today and it is okay, but I had to remove a ring spacer on the upper shaft . It took about 15 minutes to replace. I ch a need out the grade 8 bolt that was on the upper steering joint. When I disassembled the shafts, I noticed it was stretched. It was a grade 8 3/8" fine bolt.

Have you found any double frames Rs you willing to part with yet? Still looking and winter is coming need to get something in the shop.

You should also add another air tank. I restored a low boy trailer last year and posted about it. search my name and you will find it.

I was looking on summit web site but the diameters are odd sized. The upper is 1.75"/ lower is about the same with over all compressed is about 8", the ones I am finding are like 1.75" on one end and 2.25" on the other. I guess I can always tighten the crap out of it.

I popped the hood on the 85 Superliner yesterday and the dust cover boot that keeps the grease in and dirt out on the lower half of the steering shaft is torn up. I wiped the boot off enough to get some electrical tape around it and so I could run it today. Meanwhile I called Mack they had to make "phone calls" to the HQs to get advice since the boot is NLA. After several hours of waiting for my call back a gentleman called and said they had a boot that might fit but they were not sure and it was a 2 day out order and $50 and they had no idea if it would work. This is the part number off the quote 25160249, I dont think it is a Mack number as the guy stated something about spicer. The picture was from last spring but you can see the accordion boot on the lower half of the steering shaft. Any help would be appreciated.

Stopped by the Mack dealer and got some info, my truck has the AMBAC 300 pump. Part# cyl Assy 31Qc212 (mounted on front of pump) $79.62 PAI#EAC-3964 Part# Relay Assy 691GC218CX (mounted on manifold) $234.25 PAI# EVA-2775-001 There are a lot of shims available to shim up the air cylinder on the pump so part # 505GC19P15 will get you there. $3.96 PAI# ESH-3849-010 (.010 inch thick) Not sure on the PAI prices as I have not heard back from the parts guru.

no numbers to cross the bearings over to?

Is there any way to tell if it is working while it is on the truck? I suppose it could have some oil or dirt in it and resticts movement. How much are they maybe I will just buy one and replace it andvsee v what happens.

I checked mine today. Last week when I would get into it more smoke would roll than normal and towards the end it would get a little gray. I had the mini-me push and pull the parking brake knob and I could not feel it move. I took mine of and shook it and nothing happened so I put air to the inlet side and it blew out the other so I stuck it in the vice and pulled it a part. I figured it wasn't working to begin with so what to heck. It has two buttons on the inside with a spring in between. A plastic lock ring and a diaphragm. I suppose what happens is manifold pressure creates a vacuum and pulls/pushes the valve to allow compressor air in to reduce smoke. I cleaned it up and removed the lock ring and looked under the diaphragm and seen it had some oil so I sprayed it out with some can solvent and air then reassembled it and put on the truck. With mini-me pushing and pulling the brake knob you could feel and here it click open and closed, which it wasn't before. If It starts up again I will check the valve on the pump and probably replace them both. What does the deal on the pump do when it gets air? I was going to take it off but ran out of daylight for what I had on my agenda for the day.

Had a chance to work on the Superliner today. Glenn, I see the other set of valves hiding in there. Since I had the valve covers off I ran a check on continuity of the brass posts and one was shorted out for some reason. The solenoids worked fine when I ran a hot lead to them. After replacing the faulty brass post I now have the dynatard working. I took it for a test drive and it seems to work fine. Nothing like stage 3 Jake more like a stage 2., but it should help save the brakes and drums on the old girl since the drums are $325 each. I took a video of the testing with engine running and will post a link when I get it uploaded to youtube, for now all I have is pictures.

Glenn, I know it is late but it looks like it is only two valves per cylinder where are the other valves or am I missing something here???

Is the number stamped on top of the solenoid the part number? 805gca213a

It appears to me that it is a 2 valve

I have power from firewall to head when it is supposed to be powered. I replaced the brass terminals that go through the head earlier this spring because they were leaking oil. I guess when I have a little more time I will pop the valve covers off and have a look. I saw on PAI that they sell the solenoids but not sure what they cost. I think I will price them and see if it is worth delving deeper. Thanks for all the reply's, I bought one of the Dynatard manuals of ebay. It is only 12 or 15 pages I will see about getting it scanned and loaded up if the site works better than when I was doing the other stuff. It was a real PIA to upload PDFs.

Thanks to all for posting the pictures

is it for you or the museum?

I will see about taking the valve covers off if its more than the solenoids I am not going to fix it. I would rather have a Jacobs but I am not sure were I would even find one. How big of deal is it to replace the solenoids and any idea what they cost?

Update I was able to test the wire going to the heads. When the engine is under power (reved) it has full power 13.6volts, the relay chatter/vibrate and the switch is in the on position. When the throttle is released and the engine resumes idle speed power goes away and the relay stops chatter/vibrating. So I guess it is the solenoids under the valve cover. Any special tools or care that needs to take place to unhook them and replace?

When I bought the 85 RW I found that it had the engine brake, the previous owner didn't know so I figure it has not worked for awhile. I replaced the brass connectors that go into the block and pump. Today a guy canceled so I decided to see if I could figure out what is going on with it. I have power to the governor and I also have power to the switch that is mounted on the shifter. When I rev up the engine and let off and turn the switch on I hear the relay in the glove box chatter/vibrate but nothing else happens. I can't tell if I have power yet to the wire on heads. But if I rev up the engine and let off and apply power to heads with a hot jumper wire nothing happens, so I guess I need to replace the solenoids on the heads? Nothing in the service manuals but the wire schematic. I have searched on here but no luck. Somebody have the Dynatard manual?