thomastractorsvc

Wow, looks like a great turn out, nice pictures were are the rest of the 600??

The US Army ran Macks on the Sinai supply/water runs in support of the multinational observer force, I used to have pictures but don't know where they are now. For Army Truckers that was a good assignment back in the day.

WAZZZZZ UPPP!! Don't Forget you are required to post pictures!

Thanks all for the comments, did a few more tweaks to her today, still waiting on my plate, I ordered an electric brake controller so I can pull my GN trailer, I cant wait for the I-70 truck show, will probably be the only truck on display other than the ones they bring down from I 80 museum.

On my way back from a tractor show in Louisburg, KS and spotted this one turned around and went back to see it. Was kinda rough and torn up on the inside, mismatched tires and someone tried to paint it with a glove but looked like someone was still using it as the window was down and had some stuff in the cab, they relocated the battery to the back of the cab, looked like the same engine that is in mine a E6 285, could be wrong but had the intercooler on the top of the engine. As it was parked by a building and people driving by all I did was open the drivers door and take some pictures, it did have a purplewave auction sticker on it but did not see it on the website as a past sale or listed maybe it is for an upcoming auction and not listed.

Nothing yet still hauling with my 1 ton and gn trailer, would like to use it to haul, equipment/tractors and old macks, now that I bought my R, always fun trying to expand a business on a budget.

I am now on the hunt for an older lowboy trailer (25-30 ton) and was wondering about the king pin distance to be compatible for a tandem axle truck, I have looked at a couple trailers and I thought the gooseneck was short for a tandem and they looked like they were set up for a single axle, and of course everyone all say they will hook up, just don't want to have the fifth wheel all the way to the rear and tear up the mud flaps when turning. If I was looking for a new model wouldn't have the concern, they are just out of my price range so I will probably end up with a 1960-70s year that needs decking, paint and repairs.

Take lots of pictures for posterity and of course for those of us who likes pictures

that's correct on cam style brakes the shoes are the same size and dimension for both primary and secondary, if they are not identical they are mismatched, the coloring is supposed to be the composite type/heavy duty/standard, I have seen different composites on the primary than on the secondary and maybe that is what he is talking about. the hardware is also color coded, the blue springs are heavy duty

The fish, the machine or my friends belly??

They had a plaque with the operators names on it seemed like there was 10-12 of them over the years, one person operation and it has an elevator in the middle of it because when its working you cant climb on it from the side, couple of workers inside mait guys and a superintendent. That small house looking drag line had a v8 cat engine inside and one operator and mait guys that worked 20 hours a day for like 20 years, it was originally on a barge/boat in the Mississippi/Arkansas river area dredging sand bars and was purchased in the early 1910s and moved by rail and reassembled

They should be around be around $25-$30 at a truck parts store or you can order them on line about the same, Ryder Fleet on line sells them for $24 but it will take like a about 5 business days for them. NAPA sells them also but they are twice the price, if you cant find anyone around you that can get them let me know, they have them in stock at my little truck parts place I frequent I can pick them up for you, USPS flat rate is like $5.50 anywhere from here in in KC, I paid $27 each for them last month on mine, if you need lug nuts I can get those for you to the correct ball face at $1 each, I just sent 12 to one of the other BMT member was less than $20 with shipping, USPS flat rate is the way to go, little slower but saves money.

You can blow dry them just don't spin them on your hand with air, as far as the seal goes it is a SKF/CR (Chicago Rawhide) 31281, this is for both wet and greased hubs. You can use grease seals on greased bearings and wet seals on both oil bath and greased wheel bearings

Stop by any truck stop they should have them next to the candy racks or at least that is where I have seen them and bought them, they are pretty common.

Way back in the mid 80's in VO-TECH I was taught about primary and secondary shoes see attached, this is from the Mack service manual read under cam brakes section. Brake scan.pdf

# 3 for the truck show circuit, #1 for the antique farm shows #2 for the cars going to the scrap yard All in that order is my vote

start with the motor vehicle office in your state, since its been in your family for so long and you can prove that, maybe they will get you a duplicate, looks like it still has the frame under it in the front, the sn# should be stamped on the right side in the wheel opening

It depends on where you are located, what kind of shape it is in and what you are willing to pay. Think about it like this, what does it cost to replace the floor, reupholster seats, missing parts, rechrome then think about mechanicals, clutch, batterys, wiring brakes, windsheild gasket, etc... How much can you do yourself? I have a spread sheet for what I have put into mine and I am not making a historical show peice, Just in parts I am in about $3100 and I did all the work myself with some help of my mom inlaw (upholstery) My neighbor some aluminum welding (fixing broken emblems and a fuel tank bracket) My Wife holding things, My Son holding things, My Daughter holding things. I still have some minor stuff to finish and find but all said done I think a fair price would be around $8K for mine now. When I bought my truck it was running but need repairs, I have pictures posted so you can see the work that I have done. I was able get some parts from fellow BMT members, Watts and some wholesale warehouses becuase I set up business accounts. If it is running and operational I would think $2500-$4000 for one that needs to be restored, just depends on how much body work,mech work, tires, whats it missing. If its not running then I would only offer scrap price maybe a little more if it was in good shape otherwise.

I visited the 2nd largest shovel in the world when it was built in 1963 this past long weekend and I crashed my Army/best friends family reunion. Maybe not really crashed as most of them I had already met. Theses were some of the trucks an IH and a KW/Dart My Friend and I on KP Some of what we ate 49lbs Some close combat markmanship training, even after retiring 4 years ago still got it, wont be turing in my expert markmanship badge any time soon!

I dont think it is a 1967 though

If it aint full of bondo and floors rusted out and the engine runs decent seems like a fair price, if it was on CL for awhile and never sold I would really want to see it in person to see what else is wrong with it.

Looks good

Make sure to check that your races are good, a gallon of bio degreaser works well or diesel fuel and a soft paint brush, make sure to dry them with some air before repacking and dont spin the bearings with air while drying it can cause galling and damage, check your bearings for pitting or damage, if any moisture was in it there maybe some pitts on one side where it sat.

yea, yellow and black, triangles on the corners and a diamond in the middle, I used the orginal bumper and straightened it fairly decent, still a little tweaked but the bolt holes all aligned looks good on her, I was not going for a museum resto but a safe truck with some clean work clothes

Thanks all, before I left town for the weekend, I painted the bumper, hopefully I can get it on in the next day por so, painted it old school style