thomastractorsvc

my wife helps me when I need a hand, but she does not volunteer to help very often, but she did volunteer to marry me so I guess we are both lucky! Keep it up and it will be running and driving before you know it.

Trying to find time is the hardest part, on my R that I got earlier the this month I took the entire dash a part and vacuumed it out, gave me a chance to look at the wires for rodent damage and poops, luckily I only found one chewed wire and that was under the head liner for the interior light, a few poops mostly 33 years of dirt. I looked at a couple Generals and found that every door latch had been "worked" so I am thinking that was a weak link in the design, I called around a few places looking for trim, door and other parts, when I could not find much here in KC area I started looking at other trucks I guess like older Macks not many are left around here. Seat time is what will make your shifting better. Keep up the effort, the paint looks like it is in decent shape maybe a good buffing will really put a shine on it. Rob

Here are some pictures from tonight with the doors, fenders and night jewlery on. Not sure why they look grainy maybe the camara and the auto light. I still have a couple more things to get done but looks like its almost together. BTW still need some jewlery for the hood HINT HINT HINT!!!! Need (2) two short trim pieces, two (2) long trim pieces and also one (1) diesel script in any condition as I sand blasted and painted the others emblems. Broken is fine if all there, my neighbor has tig a couple of my other scripts and after painting cant even tell.

Your picture is upside down

FYI I looked on here for the info and never found it so I decided to post. Just changed oil and filter last night in my 1958 B61 with the 673END Wix/Napa numbers Oil Filter 1554- uses the smaller Luberfiner 500 canister, drain plug on bottom with copper washer 15/16", vent bolt on top, holds about a 1.5 gallon of oil. ((Inspect copper washer for damage, this is what prevents the plugs from leaking)) <<<<The O-Ring is the same for both the 500 and the 750 housings>>> The part number is -Luberfiner 2788, Fleet Guard(Cummings) 101853S, NAPA FIL 5414 Remove plug at bottom and drain, remove band clamp, pull filter out, clean and inspect inside housing and rubber gasket, replace drain plug, replace with new filter, fill with oil, replace top cover and secure with band clamp and crack open vent. Drain engine oil and refill, holds 15 qrts or just under 4 gallons check you dip stick Start engine observe oil pressure and tighten vent. Check for leaks, don't over tighten Fuel Filter 3090- canister mount right front engine. Remove line from top fitting, then turn nut on top and remove, remove filter and clean canister, replace filter and fill with about pint of fuel just to the top of the filter, oil and install rubber gasket, retighten cover, install fuel line. Start engine let idle for a few minutes and you should have no problem with air. Check for leaks,dont over tighten. Local NAPA has the Oil Filter for $21 Fleet Filter is $10.95 http://www.fleetfilter.com Fuel Filter is $13.49 and Fleet Filter is $6.99, I am sure you could check Oreilly or Carquest but I buy 99% of my filters from Fleet Filter, I figure out my filter needs for the year and buy 1,2 or 3 of each depending on equipment or vehicle, that saves lots of money. Rob

probably whom ever fills at night dropping the hose in the dirt or not keeping the dirt/dust wiped off

Looks good, take vinnys advice and shoot a video of it running

Welcome You must post pictures please some on here can't read to good so they just look at the pictures here is a R model that I looked at a while ago.

Looks great, I cant wait to get mine on the road hopefully few more days.

no what he is saying is each line needs to be the same length as the one you are replacing

I would say thats good guess on PSI, one more thing make sure the line is seamless. If you dont have the right flair tools make the lines and take them to a diesel shop and have them flair them. As you bend the lines write on them with a sharpy pen or use masking tape, it will make them go on easier when you are done messing with them.

you can use ****STEEL**** hydraulic brake line for diesel fuel injection don't use anything that is galvanized as the coating comes off, don't use plain steel automotive fuel line unless it rated for injection. The flares on brakes vs fuel injection are different and you should be able to re use the nuts on the pump and injectors as probably only the lines are bad. Make sure the diameter is similar and it is rated for pressure and you will be fine. You can use hydraulic hose for fuel lines from the tank and back, just make sure it is rated for fuel, some are some are not so check depending on application or if you have them made just tell them they are going to be used for diesel. Rob

Take a picture of the axle assembly and springs and post it if you have 34/38k you will have a light torque rod, if they are 44k they will be heaver

The wedges are for the caster angle symptoms of not enough caster are low speed wandering or weaving at high speed symptoms of too much caster is hard steering and impact shimmy symptoms of uneven caster will cause it to pull to one side Caster does not show any tire wear.

Nice looking truck, gliders are the only way to go now to have new truck with no egr headachs or rebuild an older truck. I am surprised that not many do it anymore,

If you have time during the next oil change, drain the oil and flush a couple gallons of diesel or kerosene through the oil pan, you can let soak and it will breakdown any sludge deposits in the bottom of the pan and if you put in enough it will clean the pick up screen. You can keep recycle flushing it as long as you strain it, works better than oil. If you pick up any older service manuals this is what was used to flush the housings/pans I do a lot of older tractor work and it does wonders on getting crap out and you can see the metal. Pour the flush in to a 5 gallon bucket and drop in a magnet in a zip lock see what you find

Lots of work done, looks great

Looks good hope my turns out that nice

Thanks, got the fenders and doors on this weekend, was hoping to finish the wiring but we had a storm come through so I closed up and went inside, its about ready to roll need to change the oil, change some rear tires, I got some tubeless need to get the rims painted and mounted, put mud flaps on and a couple other things then I hope to be riding in style, since its a contour cab I have been trying to remain on the thinner side so my belly dont rub the steering wheel, when we redid the seats I had my wife and mom in law redo the drivers seat they put 6 inches of foam in it and I had to suck my gut in to slide in. I guess that was why drivers were all skinny back in the 50 and 60's

Looking Good Vinny, you need to spend more time out at your Grand Parents working on your truck. When do you think it will be ready to roll?

I always thought RM was my first and middle name intials, now I am really confused, so I should have all wheel drive option, no wonder my wife is always telling me to get off of her, that expains it

Thanks all for the support. Hopefully maybe today I can get to changing out the slack adjusters, the locks are sticking in the down I have acouple of diffrent things going on today but with some time managment I can get something done. Have to pull out the camper and set up to start prepping for next weekend Have to paint 4 tubless dayton rims for the rear of the b Try and get the doors together for the b and hung on the truck Sand and paint a dresser for my mom in-law Then work on the R

Looking good, mine has AC, I am not sure if it works but I am going to try and make it if it doesnt.

The "Old NEW Truck" is looking good, I'm with you on fixing it before it brakes, once you get caught up you can usually keep it that way with basic PM.

Check in the wiki for the wiring diagram I have seen it there