thomastractorsvc

Maybe where you are but here in KC area that truck weighs 16500 at most and at $110 with no tires that is about $900. Maybe another $100 more if you cut it up and stripped it into "clean" pieces.

Napa hanging on one of those twirly racks

Looking Good. Keep at it. It won't be long now and it will be blowing smoke with a load of gravel and a smile on your face and picture takers snapping photos as they watch you go by.

If you have to swap them go to hub pilot or bud maybe easier in the long run with brakes and drums. The drums on my 85 Superliner are obsolete via webb or gunite and only available "Gold Plated" from the dealer. I had to buy new for the front at $350 each and the rears are $325. Luckly the rear drums were good and there is a place still left in the USA that will turn them. http://www.casperkc.com/

In the midwest where I am the permit is for the structure and span they could care less about what's under the floor, lots of broken concrete floors and mud jacking companies.

It does have a lucus viscosity enhancement in it, I think cold idle most are 90 or better and same when running 50/60 at idle is fine if it goes up when you are running it.

If it would not cost 3 x that to move it I would by it and make atriaxle dump I am sure it must of had power steering.

I asked awhile back and if I remeber right it was sold, but that does not mean anything nowadays

See if you can find an aux gear box

I used the door seal for an R works fine can be bought by the foot I think that is what Watts sells to.

I think the intent is to document the repair or diagnosis and or trouble shooting with results, instead of asking a question and blindly hoping that someone that knows will reply. I think a section of successful repairs is a great idea and in the past have made a few posts that explain and document. I did it for the spring brakes and pinion seal as well as the windshield replacment on my B61. Also I think it would be helpful if a poster would follow up with what they found out or what fixed the repair. I have on numerous occasions went back and revived a thread with "so what did you find out" or "did you get it fixed". I have been scanning services manuals in my spare time to get posted on here but with all the software changes and difficulty of loading and server space I can't get a lot to upload.

http://catalog.azsupply.com/viewitems/all-categories-clamps-v-band-clamps/v-band-clamp

Thanks for posting that info. Not many posts with how something is done start to finish. My hope is if someone starts reading this one they will not be afraid to tackle some of the work.

Find someone who uses these guys, I used to be able to buy direct but they got bought out and now only through dealers like PAI http://bwp-nsi.com/index.asp They will have everything you need for the brakes and wheels at a reasonable cost.

Haven't been on in a day or two. Hope you are feeling better and nothing to serious with your knee.

Awesome looking that clutch news sucks but now should be good to go for a while

What did you use for your paint and primer for the truck, the frame and door panes/interior. As a DIY painter that info can help others since it looks like the products worked out well for you.

I read a oil analysis report that said manufacturers recommended synthetic oils in newer engines and components due to the tighter tolerance and that conventional oil can not provide the film required to provide wear protection. It is best to run what the manufacturer recommends and if they recommend a synthetic as an option then you have to do a cost benefit analysis to see what works for you financially. As far as the leaks it would have to do I would think with the degerant that is added but even regular oil has had degerant added for more than 20 years. So unless it was an older engine I not sure how the degerant would effect the leaking unless it was coincidence.

How would it be more stress on the crank vs under power? A engine is nothing more than an air pump and turning a head/into an air compressor without combustion is hard on the crank, Why? I know some of the older trailer mounted commercial air compressors used 6 and 8 cylinder gas and deisel engines that ran on half and made air with the others. I think it was grimmerschmidt that made some sort of air powered tractor also used for drilling

Do you have anything on the dynatard to see what I might be missing?

I found it on a surplus website I looked for more but they didn't have anymore or I would have bought it all at that price.

My neighbor built an english wheel and made a press brake I will see if I can get a picture of them he also has a torch pattern cutter. His next project is a tubing roller.

Just finally caught a $$ brake on everything I have to fix. $3 for the roll and $16 for shipping. Quoted $14.81 at Mack per foot ((Hood Welting for the Cowl)). I paid $11.86 last spring when I bought some for the 1978 RWL from Mack. Hopefully there is enough for the next Superliner.