thomastractorsvc

I guess it went to a new home or is it the same guy?

If it is pushing that much oil something is wrong or you got a lot of crankcase pressure take the oil fill cap off and see if it improves short of that, like others said check for the fuel lines and how much oil is down on the dip stick, or better yet tell the builders that you don't feel comfortable trying to break it in and take it back to there shop and pay them to do it then if it comes apart there wont be an question on who did what, if it is just a break in issue it will resolve it self and you will be out a few dollars but have piece of mind. Not sure I would wait til spring and take it to the cummins dealer and put on a dyno until the oil issue is resolved, in my experience the longer you wait the less likely the re-builder will take responsibility. If I redo an engine I do a break in and run test to make sure it does run properly, does not leak and overheat (and show the customer). If you want bring to my shop and I will tear into it and figure it out but bring some CASH,because if it aint right you will be paying for another rebuild.

I figured that the reason you stopped posting pictures of repair work was you got to much work to do during the day to take pictures and post them, for awhile you were taking pictures of some of the work and rebuild, now I guess it is because you closed up shop.

Just found this post. All I can say is fantastic work and craftsmanship.

You closed up shop? What happened? I thought you got busy and didn't have time to post project trucks.

See if you can find the Mack part number and cross it to PACBrake OEM SOLENOID-CROSSOVER.pdf

If you can take it out it would be easy to test and I am sure that what Paul posted above is similar and would be a close base line. Take the sending unit out and use a multi-meter with a resistance setting and check it. In the down position (empty) that will have the most resistance and the up position (full) will have the least. If you don't have any reading (zero) in any position than it is bad. I thought I would add that I have some alligator clip jumpers that I use on this kinda stuff. Clip the positive lead to the stud that goes to the gauge and the negative to the ground/housing as it should ground.

What starter did you buy?

Glad to see you got it home!

I would have a uninterested party like mobile mechanic to inspect it if it is something you are serious about I have had good luck with that since I get starry-eyed around things I want to buy. I also agree for the same or less money you could get what you want.

I am on my cell but I have a topic from spring 2012 with starter pn and tooth gear just search it by my name make sure it is a 11 tooth starter

If that was the truck in St Louis, it was on CL for $7500 and had rust and other issues with the engine, I would have to go through my notes I made an offer on it a couple months ago but it definitely needed work.

Where you located? I am in Oak Grove by KC and have 1978 RWL766LST and a couple other Macks.

Is that the truck that was in St Louis?

The shutters on the early diesel B's did not have a thermostat they used the shutter and shutter stat as the thermostat to regulate temp of the engine. When cold shutters would be cold as it warmed up they would open to a certain point to maintain temp in accordance with the shutter stat that was mounted in the return manifold on the left side of the engine. I would think that all changed when they went to the P, 711 or added a turbo. I have not researched it enough to determine the exact date when the thermostats became a part of the coolant system, but looking at engines was sometime in 1960 early 1961. Correct me if i am wrong someone.

Looks like you already started selling rides to the "Full Figured Women!", I see you accept all the major credit cards on that side of the truck, I guess that means no kick stand??? You can get these for the mud flaps

Welcome

buy this and mount on the wall just high enough to attach the clips put on all four corners of where you are going to park the cart http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Van-Trailer-Products/E-Track-Straps-Tie-Downs/E-Track-2-Horizontal-Galvanized-Box-4 Or if it was me I would use this and some HF ratchet straps and be all set for under $30 http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Search?search=%284+pack%29+Stainless+Steel+Flush&x=30&y=10

Just like new, there you go.

Exactly what I would like to have someday to do some work and show I think it's it a little high on price though around $7500 to $8000 and it better have a good DOT check up!

Condolences and thoughts to family and friends.

He must be a company driver knowing he wont have to pay for damages.

I like it!