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G75-G753LT Truck Specs Febuary 25, 1960 Copy of Vehicle Specifications G75 G753LT.pdf G75 G753LT.pdf G75 G753LT.pdf Author thomastractorsvc Category Antique & Classic Mack Info Submitted 01/13/2015 04:52 PM

G73-G733LT Truck Specs Febuary 19, 1960 Copy of vehicle specifications G73 G733LT Truck Specs.pdf G73 G733LT Truck Specs.pdf G73 G733LT Truck Specs.pdf Author thomastractorsvc Category Antique & Classic Mack Info Submitted 01/13/2015 04:40 PM

B-422T Truck Specs October 16, 1959 Copy of Vehicle Specifications B422T Truck Specs.pdf B422T Truck Specs.pdf B422T Truck Specs.pdf Author thomastractorsvc Category Antique & Classic Mack Info Submitted 01/13/2015 04:36 PM

check the vent and make sure not plugged and/or pull the oil filler cap off and see if there is presuure

Take it for an oil sample may be condensation if you don't run the truck much.

so far away are the best deals!

wheres the pictures?

On the center bolt if you don't have the right tools i.e. torque multiplyer. large impact. ect.. wait til you are getting ready for paint and take it to a spring shop have them do both sides and in a few hours and a couple hundred it will be just like new.

once you get that AC working make up a set of plans for the rest of us! You will make sure the rest of us don't become "hot heads"

If that green one was closer I would get it myself.

I guess I am late to this party but I would have said 5K-7K depending on the rust out. Remember that truck is only worth what someone will pay you or you are willing to pay. From what I have seen lots of older trucks sell for 6K-12K the high priced ones are always for sale. Now if it had papers that it had a reman motor or transmission or a crap load of stuff done and you can still tell they are new parts that can always bring a better price. Rust and corrosion repair can get expensive because you lose on down time and plus time and materials, just paint and metal work if you do it yourself would be around 700-1000 depending on paint and stuff. You would change the door seals, window channel, maybe a headlight bucket.

Looks like that will work just fine. On my R I replaced the 5th wheel and redid all the mount brackets and bolts I used 3/8th angle 3x4 it was not to bad of a job getting the frame blots drilled but I had my neighbor use his milling machine to cut the slots he has way more patience when it comes to layout than I do

Looks nice

Like your paint booth!

Looks like it pulls good just need to put paint on the rest of it now

looking good

From there website must not be a dot compliant suspension as it says for off road use, I still think the level switch is the best idea.

looks like the cab was intact just rolled backward, probably a safety design cockpit thing

So did you ever finish this conversion?

what are you using for paint?

Looks pretty straight and fair price for a running and driving truck with no rust. A few dings but it would be an easy clean up with soap and water and some elbow grease and I bet a stack of $100's in person could get for a little less

http://www.jobsinme.com/seek/resultdetail.aspx?jobnum=54345 They are hiring maybe some one could get the Superliner as there assigned truck?!?