thomastractorsvc

Thanks for the info I asked Mack about resetting the codes they said needed a tool. I didn't know how true that was as from what I can find it is a primitive system. Really all you need is a copy of the VMAC I codes and the light to work. Is the codes the same for the VMAC I, II, III, IVs?

How would you block off the timing? Then you would have to also install everything from the foot pedal to the pump. Maybe it would be better to wait until you have issues and replace the pump with a mechanical one.

the paperwork says Superliner II, probably had left over lights so they stuck them in.

My 85 has round headlights. Old picture but you can see the lights.

Can someone list what needs to be done for the future when VMACIs are no longer serviced and considered obsolete.

So the VMAC I is early version OBD? I found a bunch of China knock offs that support heavy duty trucks OBD II but the notes say they are for 1996 and newer. Has anyone used another scanner than the hard to find and expensive Kent Moore/Pro-Link readers? I found a scan tool $150, data cord $146, VMAC disk/insert $350 but no power cord yet and that is used with no returns.

Sent a PM

Thanks That is what I needed to know. Now the hunt is on.

I didn't think about the bearings if they are pitted or not. I was just thinking about the gear sets

I have never done this but thought of doing it before but found another gear box cheap. if you didn't want to take it out I would try and dissolve the rust. Fill it up with evaporate rust and dissolve it. Then after everything was dissolved rinse with a pressure washer and then soak in diesel/kerosene. Then flush a few times. Like I said I have never done it and if you don't have the tools or money to have someone else do it right now like Glenn said, I think for around a $100 you could try it. If you do post the results. https://www.evaporust.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover

Thanks I appreciate the pictures. It looks like someone moved the rollers to the top. I got a house full of kids today so I will look today and see if I cant figure out where they go and move them. We had a tornado come through on Monday night and have one of my sons friend over staying since his house was damaged and school is out.

Any idea what the scanner looks like as I never seen one. I saw an interface cartridge on ebay but not sure what the scanner looks like and connector.

my 2 cents-Are the lights in a grommet or solid mount to the bed? If solid mount probably the banging if in a grommet I would say it was something else as the grommet would protect it from the jarring and shock.

Are you sure it is not the transmission switch I have to hold mine in a certain position to get it to work. Have some one jiggle the shifter while in reverse and hold it tight up to the corners and check it. Obviously with key on and engine off, I crawled up through the passenger side and used a test light. Took mine off and tested it and found it was good when reinstalled had my boy work the stick in reverse. Now I just hold it tight in gear when I want the lights and buzzer to come on.

My hood has the dual cut out for external air breathers from factory although these were changed to a smaller version. Question where to the side rollers go and what do they look like? Mine are mounted at the top and all the other ones I have seen are mounted lower near the hood guide pins. If you look at the pictures you can see that the rollers are missing and the pin has broken the hood and sticking out. The center rollers are intact and in good shape. Want to get the hood fixed but need help on the roller situation so it doesn't break again.

I'm sure those specs can be converted are you wanting to go hub or stud pilot? Pull one of the hubs and start hitting up the salvage yards or see mack

I pmed with another member and he mentioned Kent Moore serial link adapter with a laptop and the VMAC software. I googled it up and came up with a bunch of different stuff and no idea what I was looking at. What is the best software and interface and what does the scan tool look like. I just want something I can pull and reset codes if I get one. For use with my 1992 E7 400 VMAC I

Swishy you should have told you wife to move her car

I wonder if there maybe some frame issues around that winch. I was reading in an up fitter bulletin that to prevent frame damage that frame reinforcement must be at least twice as long as it is high mounted. from the pictures it's just a single frame with the winch mounted on channel.

Is that 613 double framed? Send me the pics of the superliner

Congratulations now let the good times roll!

I could make back the cost of the length streach and lift axle within no time as the truck is paid for and I have a 15ft bed sitting here at the house. My thoughts were adding a tag to the rear would be less expensive and would not have to mess with moving the axles. A 25 year old truck is what I want. I have no desire to make $4000 a month payments and worry about how many nickels I need to rub together waiting on call backs or having to haul asphalt by the ton and running overweight to to make up for the overbooking of trucks and only getting three loads a day while sitting at the jobsite waiting for the other 15 trucks to dump ahead of me. With my 32 year old truck (1985 RWL 15ft dump) that is paid for I only take work that is by the hour and I am not forced to haul asphalt by the ton. All things being equal i.e. a triaxle dump 25 years old or brand new 2017 dump truck makes the same money per hour, my business model venture doesn't require the extra overhead.

I thought about it but with the two different weight zones it would only be feasible for use in the Comercial Zone as it wouldn't really increase capacity outside that zone as the bridge wouldn't increase and the added weight of the additional axle would cancel any gains. I just really need to find a good dump trailer.

Make your offer before March 7 that's when insurance premiums are due.

Thanks looks like a good site