thomastractorsvc

yes and no they have a commercial zone that goes by tire/axle up to 22400 each if tires are rated for it, outside of the zone it is by bridge formula. My tandem can carry 15 tons outside the zone at around 52500lbs (Bridge Formula), in the zone I can go up to 67200lbs with the same truck. Although I am tagged at 54K so I never run over my plates in the zone, its an 85 do not want to break it. Most triaxles here are 15 to 16 ft beds can go up to and not exceed 80K in the zone but uses bridge formula outside the zone so most only carry 16 to 17 tons legally with pushers. Using a tag would increase the length for bridge and should be able to get a few more tons. A strong arm on the rear is good for another 10K so if I could get half that I would be happy.

Its a double frame on 44K camel back and if I decide to do it I will only be adding less than 3 feet over all for a 16ft bed. Right now I could squeeze a 15 ft on but would be tight up at the cab. I not sure yet what to do was just brain storming and trying to see what everyone has seen. If i could find a decent dump trailer I would do that but I am not going to spend 20K on one and then rebuild it. As dump truck season picks up I will have to make a decision. I don't do asphalt just rock and dirt and I was hoping to save some money at the body builder if I went with the tag on the rear. To have it stretched, axles moved and lift installed its around 7K without a bed. It would be $4500 to just add the frame and tag to the rear.

Get a second mortgage. I appreciate that they sponsor this site but some of the pricing then shipping negates buying from them things that you can get else where or used. If they (Watts Mack) were more competitive on some stuff I would have no problem calling and spending a couple bucks more to get it from them. Do they have a captured audience sure they do on certain NOS/NLA or repop parts and everyone knows you have to spend the extra cash to get it. Most don't have an unlimited budget and cant dump a grand on a B61 windshield gasket, 2 mufflers and a window squeegee set and 8 well nuts. Example http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_80&product_id=218 $200 muffler plus shipping or http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/donaldson-m085171/muffler-4-in-4--out-p-w26-m085171 $83 plus shipping or pick up local from Napa for $134 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWRM085171

Do you know what they are asking and a Point of contact or number?

The puff limiter set up has avalve located on the manafold and a air valve located on the front pump. Follow the air line. The valve located on the end of the pump is what needs to be removed as it holds the rack from opening and needs to be shimmed properly. It may be stuck open or not shimmed properly. That will prevent the rack from opening and will not allow boost to build.

Speedco or another heavy truck place should beable to test the sample on the spot

Sorry to hear that a buddy of mine has replaced 3 on his T800 KW in less than a year so I understand the frustration

Where are the pictures of the superdogs?

I was wondering if it was a regional thing based on bridge weight or something like that. I seen a pictures on the internet with a pusher in front and tag on rear looked like a michigan set up. As long as the the tag was down when dumping I cant see what the issue would be unless it may get tippy but with two axles spring suspension in the front I would thik it would be to bad unless it was like a 19 or 20 footer.

Mike Harbison aka Superdog PM him or me and I will give you his phone number

Where are those trucks? Are they for sale?

I was talking with a couple companys about extending my frame on the 92 Superliner to accomadate a 16ft bed. After the adding the couple of feet they were going to roll the axles back and redrill and put a lift axle in front. While taking a shower I was thinking about all the pulp trucks I ran years ago most were spring lift or mounted so that when weight was put on the truck it would compress the suspension for the added capacity. Also most of the mixer trucks around here have tag axles unless they have the strong arm then its that and a pusher. Has anyone seen a tag axle triaxle dump?

I have Haggerty and best rates of all that were mentioned. You can pull a trailer only draw back is you are supposed to have inside storage when not in use.

Sweet

Looks Good lots of work in that bracket

Price?

Still looking? I have a perfect one on my 67R. I need $400 plus shipping as that is what it will cost to replace it with the right tank from the used parts place. I thought I had better pictures but if you are interested I take some more.

I cleaned the frame and the mounting brackets like Rob said. I then painted before assembly. The last one I did aluminum frame, 1978 Superliner, I bought some black liquid spray plastic and sprayed some of that over the paint not sure if it will help have to wait and see.

When I get a chance I will see if I can find the number and put air to the valve. Yesterday it didn't look like there were any shims between the pump and the air cylinder. Of course until I get it out it is hard to say and the air conditioner pump makes it hard to crook your neck in for a good look. I guess what i will do is look for the stamp and measure the trow of the new cylinder and by the right number of shims than replace the puff limiter at the same time then everything should work like factory.

I finally bought a new Puff Limiter valve and air cylinder. Yesterday I changed the Puff limiter and thought I would see how that made things run since after messing with the old one the smoke dyed down for awhile than it came back hence the ordering of the parts. This morning when I was headed to a job site the truck did not blow any smoke out the exhaust no matter how hard I mashed the gogo pedal so I figured that must be the problem. About 3 miles from home I was finally getting into the taller gears and it acted liked it was stalling so I held it to the floor the RPMs started to slowly rise and the boost never got above 20lbs and the pro holding steady on 700. I made it onto I 70 thinking well maybe I need to get used to it but when she hit high gear she dogged out like it was starving for fuel boost still at 20 and the pyro holding steady between 600 and 700. I hit the next exit and headed back to the shop I pulled inside cranked on the heater and put the old valve back on. Took about 10 minutes then headed out Boost was immediately back to normal, black smoke when I got hard on it and boost topped out around 32 or 33 and pyro holding steady around 400. Obviously the air actuator valve must not be shimmed right so when the new Puff Limiter valve was working it held the rack partially closed. I guess my question is how do measure and shim the air cylinder and once I do get it right will it still make the truck doggish? I have learned to run the truck with out making it smoke bad by throttle control but wanted to see it fixing it would save on fuel.

I think that was for sale down near Wichita Kansas if IRC they were asking around $60 or $70K

Looks like one of the dogs near the top has a Texas plate on it, long way to drive I guess they must have fixed the bridge.

Looking good

Congratulations, looks like the passenger door is the worst. Is that the one that was on FB for $130K?

Congratulations That is a family heirloom