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thomastractorsvc

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Everything posted by thomastractorsvc

  1. Don't forget to post a follow up of what you did and if it works.
  2. Are you getting fuel to #3 at the injector pump? crack that line and see if it is spitting fuel maybe the plunger/pump spring is stuck?
  3. This is the answer to your problem.
  4. Glad it was resolved. Thanks for posting a follow up for the next guy.
  5. That truck would look nicer with a regular dump bed all painted up
  6. its $3.65 here down about $0.10 from when I fueled up last Thursday or Friday. Same cash or credit except at the truck stops, so I usually fill at the small guys.
  7. looks like you have it licked now, just need to get it back for this next weekend to install
  8. cascade works well to flush oil out of radiator and coolant lines, that's what I use when I need to flush the system, pour in let run, rinse and repeat
  9. Sorry for you loss, pets are like family
  10. Looks nice, I checked out the web site a while ago, does nice work. It will be a nice truck to enjoy.
  11. the pictures shows the vin, but not the axle, call the local dealer they will know for sure and might have some service history also.
  12. nice truck, looks like the previous owner kept it in good shape, that always helps fro any restore project
  13. my advice would be to use a mic and check it for wear before trying to put back together, so what did you do? rebuild it or buy a reman?
  14. He was probably happy that you did that, the AC probably didn't work
  15. what you going to do with an excavator cab?
  16. nice catch, I wonder what it has for a transmission, last couple R's I have seen with sleepers had six speeds
  17. I broke one so I made a flat driver out of an old chisel cut it short and use it with a socket. I use it to remove the mounting screws on the floor/foot plate of older JD tractors, I usually need to use an impact because of the rust/corrosion. It seems to hold up well under that kind of stress.
  18. looks like that did the trick, I will see if I can get a picture of mine tomorrow, but don't laugh at it has a zip tie on it
  19. While I was waiting on my wife this afternoon, I was thinking about this and years ago I can remember vaguely changing the diaphragms, I guess I never paid enough attention to it and weather the breaks worked, I was always taught that the brake was disabled when caged. I guess I learned something that I should have already known.
  20. Maybe the service side will work, when I have caged them it was to release the wheel/hub and move it to the shop not to rely on it for stopping. When I have taken the ASE Air Brake test and recert tests I don't ever remember it being a question. I suppose that is why I commented the way I did. I have a spring brake chamber laying in the shop I will cage it and put air to the service side and see if it moves. Let you know. Might make a video of it if I remember to.
  21. looks like a sleeve was on the end, is it inside the mount? Short of replacing the cable see if you can loosen up the clamp and pull it up and retighten it, that's what I would do and see if that would stay, if the clamp wont hold it replace it or wrap some electrical tape around the end of the cable a few wraps would build it up to hold in the clamp. I would try those fixes first unless you have a replacement cable or that one is broken. You can get a new cable for about $20.
  22. exactly what Larry said, you have part of it on the throttle rod but missing the cable mount that is attached to a compressor bolt, just bend you up apiece of flat steel an drill you a hole and you will be in business.
  23. when you cage the brakes you manually release them and mechanically pull the rod into the free/caged position, my experience with caged bakes is once you do that no brakes work on that hub/wheel. Maybe on older pods it was different.
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