thomastractorsvc

or brakes for that matter!

lets see your pictures and maybe we can what is missing and where it is supposed to mount vs how it is now

I use USAA and have everything with them cars, pickups, house, trailers and my Macks. They tried to send me to a historical affiliated insurance company and when I explained to them it was not a museum truck they asked for declared value and told them what I paid for them, told them they have historical plates and they said how much coverage I wanted since I have full coverage on them. I have both values set up 10k, They don't care if it is inside or outside. I pay $158 for the R and $140 for the B with $100 deductibles for collision/comp, (I now keep the comp at $100 after buying a back window for my old suburban) it is only a few dollars difference. One time I was trying to save some money and changed all the deductibles to $500. Bad Idea after losing two windshields one in my pick up, one in the suburban and then the back glass. After everything was said and done spent close to $1500 in just one wintery month. Try your regular insurance company and let them know it is a antique truck and not used for commercial use, I would have to think they would insure it.

pretty straight forward Should be a "removable bundle" inside need to take off and inspect, test submerged with 80psi air. Has a large o-ring and couple paper gaskets. End cap and inlet, should be torqued to 13 ft lbs.

have you torn into it yet?

how did they do the front grill? anyone have some pictures?

just an obvious suggestion, are you sure its not the cable that is stuck?

ah so, thanks thought it was some kind of truck

it does look familiar, not sure what a Kenilworth is

My nephew sleeping with Duke about three weeks ago Youngest sleeping after reading his Bible Youngest sleeping at the table after working him to hard in the snow, grandma watching Daughter camping out with the Duke Duke waiting for a "Scooby snack"

if its not the linkage it is corrosion on the pin and peddle (Steel & Aluminum alloy), if you cant budge it may be time for a new one you can soak it with PB Blaster or your favorite juice but after that replace it don't know of many success stories with that kind of corrosion, without welding on a nut or heating, but that assembly you cant do it. Some boat guys I know say vinegar works, I have never tried that. I have had better luck just replacing those kind of parts. If it was a head or manifold I would try the heat method welding on a nut to a stud.

thanks for posting, neat video. Any one notice that mud flaps were only on the rear of trailers? I would have thought they would have had them on the dollys to with those heavy lug tires

well at least the are not hard to fix, it will be more work to get to it.

cant figure out the leak picture, can you tell if it is seeping from the head gasket? Look from the top

were you at? the truck looks to be in great shape

yep that's it, same as my 80 R

is it for sale? if you don't get it let us know on here what they want for it.

Nason is a decent paint and nicely priced you can get at Oreillys. Every Oreillys will have the basic colors on hand but there is always one in the area that has an automotive paint store that can mix and match colors. I am using Nason on my R model. ( I gave them the Mack color codes and they said they could make it, wait and see of course as it still has primer on it)

I was going to post this one but thought you might be to young.

I'm with you they should have at least attempted to back it on, I wonder what it was like to load at the shop, that should have been on film to.

Anyone seen this video yet? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-WQT9SbntQ

saw this one last night about 10:30 and still working it this morning at 7:50 does that count? http://www.mshp.dps.mo.gov/HP68/AccidentDetailsAction?ACC_RPT_NUM=140099431

what he said

theakerstwo has just posted: You got me confused now when you say check torque and specs.Is he going to tear it down again and retorque or iust retorque.If so he would not make it in a commerce shop.The way old timer did break a engine in is with non detergent oil for a few miles but that is not needed any more with the rings we have now. I remember those days.Any more a break in means tomost shops to run fast idle out side as hot as it will get maybe 3 or 4 hrs than turn it loose and advice the driver to work it but watch for leaks.Back out of it on long pulls to some degree and see you next time it needs the valve adjusted. Not sure what happened to your post but to answer your question "You got me confused now when you say check torque and specs" The simple answer is it was a general statement to go back and make sure no leaks, hoses/lines were tight and everything is good to go, also on some engines you are supposed to recheck the head bolts and other stuff depending on the manufacture specification. There would be no reason to tear down unless there was a problem with noise, overheating, oil pressure etc... As far as making it in a commercial shop, so far I seem to be doing just fine in my own shop and teaching part time at a technical college

Yikes, you were lucky the stop never got put through the wall before you hooked up the alarm