thomastractorsvc

So is it just the econovance bad? or the engine lost oil pressure and locked up? Or did when the econovance fail it took out the cam gear and got metal into the bearings?

Nice pictures, glad you are getting the time to stop and visit with folks from here

unless you plan on changing all the bearings and synchronizers and a total rebuild I would go reman, as everyone has said you will be back in it at some point, what it costs now and next time will be more than the cost of the reman. While you are at it I would do the clutch and clutch brake.

there was a cab corner on ebay when I was looking yesterday

Mike Nice find! Are you going to work it or make it a toy?

Nice! Wish I had the money to buy or make something like that. I saw that picture before. A couple years ago there was a truck similar to that one that was repowered, don't know what happened to that one but it was on truck paper and Ebay a few times.

is the motor a part? Do you have another motor to put in it?

Thanks I was going to post that to, looks very similar to the on in my Service Manual dated Oct 1979

are you sure it is not an alternator? does it have neg or positive ground?

Vlad Are you going to be around this weekend I will bring my B over and let you help me on my tanks

Don't get you panty's in a wad, that was not SEN Schumer who said that but some NY Professor that wrote an opinion piece. Jonathan Zimmerman is a professor of history and education at New York University. http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/end-presidential-term-limits/2013/11/28/50876456-561e-11e3-ba82-16ed03681809_story.html

Ditto

I would see if you can get to it from underneath first, those bolts holding the brake pedal assembly are not going to come easy and you have all the copper lines hooked to the bottom of it. You may open a cans of worms with breaking the housing or twisting one of the copper lines. You should be able to finagle you hand and test light from underneath, it will look something like this but will probably have small screws holding the wires on, you can check to see if you have power to it with a test light one side should be hot then when you apply the brake it would close the circuit sending power to the rear lights. Not sure how your switch is wired up but you may have to have the key in the run position. For safety, It goes with out saying, always chalk the wheels and have the engine shut off pulled out if it is a diesel or discount the coil if it is a gasser.

as was said check the air lines to make sure not damaged, if they are ok replace the valve

Thanks was what I was looking for.

Just my two cents, If there is a price I will stop and look at it and think about if I could use it or know someone that might be interested. Sometimes I have bought things just because of the price, not that I needed it, but the price, I have kept some things and bought and sold others. I very rarely will stop and call someone and ask about the price. Why? Because I have had many conversations with sellers that feel insulted by my offer or start arguing with me about what they really have. Not worth the headache. If you want to sell something post a price if it is a firm price state that if you are open to offers state that, it is not hard and will attract interested people. Same goes of pictures, no pictures or price I will skip over it unless it has a decent description I will ask for pictures. No pictures I will move on. I don't know how many times I have been told it was one thing and after going to look at it, sometimes a days drive and it turned out to be another and just a waste of time and money. My rule is now "No pictures not worth it" especially in todays world. Anyone remember the CL ad for a Mack sign with hanger and it turned out to be was a mud flap and bracket. If you want me to become interested post a reasonable price, maybe a picture or two and a decent description. Then if it peaks my interested I will call and we can get into it. Now a days, with the internet, everything is close, I have purchased equipment as far away from me as Rhode Island, About 1800 miles away, I hired a local shop to go due an inspection and look at it after I got pictures, an agreed price and a good description. So because I am far away does not mean I wont buy it, but don't post no information and price and for sure I wont. I also had asked a member on here to check out a truck for me by where he lived, based off his observation and pictures when he checked out the truck for me I made a fair offer to make the purchase, unfortunately the owner and I were a few hundred apart and the deal fell apart. That truck was 650 miles away from me. As you all know this past weekend I just picked up a truck in Nebraska about 300 miles away, that truck had a price and OBO, I called the owner he knew what it was and sent me pictures and we were able to settle on a price. If the ad said "truck for sale call" I would not have called or bought it.

Yes, via email through the web site, Barry asked for the vin and I have not heard back anything. Do you have a part number for the glass?

Anyone have a part number for a CF windshield? Superdog told me they are the same as the F model windshields. Thanks

wasn't that the one for sale not to long ago on ebay or something???

Mike How about some pictures than!

any better pictures of it and does it run?

All it needs is a Duramax or Detroit 671 and it would be awesome don't forget and making the sleeper accessible from the cab, modifying the air intake so you don't have a huge blind spot and taking out the bench seat and installing buckets and fixing the suicide door to match, the rust and don't forget a coat of paint

does it make any noise when the PTO is engaged?

Don't forget to make your wife a place to stay when she comes to visit, well worth the effort.

Vin do you have any pictures of the dash repair?