thomastractorsvc

So what did you find out? Was it the filter screen or something else?

My Mack B61 has one but it is mounted under the hood on the side of the engine, just an old school oil filter set up. It is a canister type filter set up nothing real fancy mine holds about 2.5 gallons of oil.

$2500-$3500 you can ask for more might get it. If I were buying I would not pay more than $3500 unless it was something special or had a lot of extra parts. From my observations and buying and selling, I watch ebay and CL for a month or two, most trucks all start out high and either don't sell or they relist with a lower price, trucks will typically sell when they are fair priced it. My 1980 R model I bought last spring was listed at 12K. I called and asked about the truck and asked for pictures, made a offer. After a few months of not selling I made another and got it for considerably less. Some may say I bought a set of tires and got the truck for free since it had new tires all the way around.

Mike Thanks for your reply, I always try to contribute the best answers so folks can read it and make a decision if it is something they can do or best left to the "experts" I recently started teaching again part time at the college level a couple nights a week and recently talked about a similar topic. Most systems are basically the same, it is the manufactures nuances that need to be considered. Everything has an inherent danger and it is up to each person to determine the level of risk they want to assume. I have seen more battery accidents yet most would not think twice about changing them.

didn't Paul buy a yellow one of those "rare" trucks? Been through the wash so many times the exporter are not even looking at it

Shiny and red, looks great

The pictures show that there is a decent amount of rust in the body, that may get expensive to fix, may want to option it back to a tractor truck with fifth wheel

Seems to be a lot of advice here so, here is my two cents 1. Chock the wheels front and back (you don't need to disconnect the battery's as there is nothing electrical about this repair and you may need the engine running to build air if the truck does not hold it) 2. Locate two caging bolts, they look like this 3. insert into the hole on top of the brake chamber and key the bolt into the internal lock, (don't use vice grips as it will damage the ACME threads on the bolt) the bolt will only have about 1 1/2 inches sticking out (make sure the nut is near the top of the bolt with a washer) once inserted and keyed use a 3/4" wrench to tighten until the spring is compressed. (a cheat would be to use the truck air and release the brakes, so you don't have to compress the spring so much, this may work on the good chamber but may not work on the bad one depending on how bad it is leaking) 4. Drain all air from the system mark your air lines and remove them from the brake chamber. The new chambers will be marked for the lines 5. Remove the cotter pin and remove clevis pin from the slack adjuster, (You do not have to mess with the slack adjuster at this time.) 6. Remove the mounting bolts and take the chamber off the truck. 7. Take the chamber to the parts store and get new ones (keep the old ones until you have the new ones mounted, you will have to cage the new brake chambers to cut the rod to proper length, remember to thread a nut on the rod before cutting to dress the threads after cutting or you may have difficulty threading on the clevis/yolk) 8. Reinstall in reverse order, charge the brakes remove caging bolts and store on side of chamber or in the truck. (depending on how accurate your cuts are you may need to readjust the brakes) Should take about 20 minutes per side to install and replace.

if it is worth that why is it out side exposed to the weather, Owner says "I will throw a high number out there one of those deranged Mack fanatics will buy it, just look at all those old restored trucks driving around at the Mack truck shows"

I must be big dummy tonight I don't understand your explanation on what you are measuring, pictures or describe it better please, if you are converting from spoke to budd style why would you measure the stud size? I thought you would measure the spindle and where the hub races would ride.

I would say frame rust or cracks would be the biggest issue and headache and of course how rusted out it is, if it was wrecker it probably was inside a lot, the front pillars get rust in them and the bottom of the doors where it leaks into the cab. All can be fixed but the better it is to start the better you will probably feel about the project also the more you can find wrong may help with the price to a certain point. You can still buy a lot of the small stuff without breaking the bank, and gages and stuff are available. I would also look at the tires, as they may need to be replaced from sitting. If they are old bias ply tires I would bust them down clean and inspect the rims and put new tubes in them, if they are bad then I would look for tubeless and find some decent used. I have done both tubes are about $30 ea, have the rims sandblasted is about $25 ea. This past spring I bought 4 tubeless rims and gave $45 each for them from a salvage yard and paid $20 for sand blasting found 4 new recaps on CL for $175 and spent $20 each for mounting. I also bought some wheel studs and this is what I am talking about, Mack had them for $10 and PAI (Fleet Pride) had them for under $3 each, however I needed 5 now and could not wait 3-5 days. I started switching over from the tube tires to the tubeless to get ready for a truck show, half way threw changing them out is when I found I needed to replace the 5 studs as they were bad.

since it is for your B have they been upgraded yet to spring brakes or are they single chamber? If they are single chamber it would be a great time to up grade ,not much money and fairly simple. Take one of the old ones off and bring it with you as with seeing it is had to determine if long or short stroke. I posted a thread on how to upgrade took longer to pull the bolts loose than reinstall. You will have to cut the rod so make sure that when you cut it is in the proper position meaning the brake chamber is gaged that means that there is bolt compressing the spring and that pushes the rod out as far as it can go. Make sure to get new clevis/yokes and pins not worth trying to save the old ones. Slack adjusters can be greased and as long as the locking mechanism still works they should be ok or they are not stripped. You should not have to mess with any adjustments on them if the brakes were working before the air leak. If you have the original style adjusters and the ball socket does not click you may want to replace them, again take one with you when you go to the parts store. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/24092-b61t-upgrade-to-springbrakes/

I thought that R already auctioned?

make sure you bring some mace and a Taser

They maybe knock offs but they stand behind there stuff, the clone Honda engines run good, and if you are only gong to use it once in awhile the money saved is money earned (( The local RV dealer has a Dometic (electric start) 2600KW for $799.)) My experience with HF stuff is it works and lasts as long as more expensive or dies/breaks at first use. If you google HF engines everybody loves them and they last.

just went to main web site link http://www.harborfreight.com/ and that generator is on sale for $99, any how I was looking for the solar panel set up that they have because I have thought about that to, just add a couple more deep cycle battery's and that solar kit and you would be all set, but for the money the generator would be the ticket, 20amp runs for 5 hours, maybe get a bigger tank set up but if you only use it at night would be plenty, just turn it on and leave it run til it was out of fuel each night, if you thought it was to loud you could but it in insulated box or cooler

Your fridge is not dual elec/propane? same with water heater? I once was going to rent a generator for a week and it was going to cost 3/4 of what I could buy one for and still had to buy gas and take it back so I bought a 7500/5500 from Lowes several years ago was around $650 came with accord etc.. 30 amp circuit, have not used it with my camper but have thought about bringing it before. Harbor freight has a neat little one for a around $100 or less wont run AC but should run everything else, I have thought about buying one as a back on the camper because it is small and light weight. Get you a 20% off coupon or wait till its on sale and that's a cheap back up. http://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/gas-engine-generators/900-peak800-running-watts-2-hp-63cc-gas-generator-60338.html

looks pretty good, turned out to be a good save

pretty cool looking truck

Bienvenue au BMT!

That's is cool, when I met Randy, we didn't get to eat schnitzel, but I did eat some chicken strips kind of close

need to pull them a part and get the rust out and see if they can be put back together after being cleaned up and treated to stop the rust or if you need to get different frame rail or rails. If it is a hobby truck going to shows the frame could probably just get cleaned and put back together, but if you were going to haul or work the truck you want to make sure it has not become to thin. Second thing is frame bolts like this http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/bolts/Hex-Flange%7CFrame-Bolts or huck bolts bout they are made to be secured with a special tool, or a good grade 8 bolt with harden washer and nut. Welding is possible, if you have a Mack service manual it has a section on frame repair and welding, tells you how they would want you to do it or you can farm it out to reputable truck frame or truck body equipment installer. You could probably just replace the outer rail with new or used or depending on your use may have to replace both or go to a single heavy frame.

Well you should get better fuel economy now that its all shiny and clean, did you get your valve fixed?

Nice find glad you had the opportunity to stop and check them out Thanks

If you still have the title, tell him you got some other offers, and tell his deposit has run out. I would give you 10K for it if you send it to this side of the boarder with the right papers