thomastractorsvc

I know in the past I have made suggestions as to wheel hop and what needs to be checked. Since I painted my frame on my R, I took the fronts off and swapped them side to side, now I have a hop at about 45-50 which I did not have before, I am going to try and turn them on the hub before l swap them back. Years ago when I worked at a tire shop if the tire would not balance we would break it down and turn on the rim 180 degrees and this usually worked if not we would turn it 1/4 turns until it did.

Just get some sharpies or a small paint brush to paint the gasket back black

Where is the picture of that AC? Do you have duct to the sleeper?

Welcome. There are some NOS parts available, some new parts and you will probably end up refurbishing some of your parts and finding some used. Just need to see what can be fixed, bearings and stuff like that can be part cross reference, when it comes to rubber and moldings I was able to get all my window channel, clips and sweeps, molding from aftermarket Chevy place (when I told one of the parts guys what I was working on he was surprised, than one of the others said back in the day there were only a couple places that made that stuff, not like today) also check a good hardware store/napa/carquest, they usually have all the little rubber bumpers and stuff

you can fix it just use full edit in the original post

Congratulation's on your new baby! Hope everything with his tummy turns out ok

totally agree, hope you got it fixed

The body guy I am working with is supposed to come on Monday, I will talk to him about the doors, if you had good luck 4 years ago why change? If the doors are made in Taiwan quality is different than China. The lock issue is the doors are made for the new style doors where they changed the lock mech, it says that in the pdf

Before I found Dawson in TXs I called a place in CA and they were from China

Congrats on the cruzin I just changed the pinion seal on mine, http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/31740-replacing-pinion-seal-b-61/?hl=pinion it has the part numbers and what was needed! I wipe of the big chunks then use Dawn dish soap on the back of my cab to get the slinged grease off before I wash it. That dawn works great on the residue.

Welcome, check the forums for visors, from what I understand the fiberglass ones are lunds and are available, but they need to be cut to fit. As far as the wheels, you will have to find new hubs and wheels and that can be done with new replaceing everything or via salvage yards. Now that you are the proud owner looking at working on an older Mack comes the fun and challenging part, locating the parts at a reasonable cost to make your repairs and modifications. If you have lots of Money you wont have any problems sourcing what you need.

That's right and when I spoke with Mack they said they only had one in the system. As far as the tin hollow sound its because of not being coated on the inside. My one of my B doors sound the same looked like some of the undercoating had been lost, I sprayed under coating on the inside of both doors and it sounds better. My R has tinny sound on the passenger side and the window rattles almost like the door is open. As far as the lock issue I only need one on the drivers side. When I redid the channel and stuff on my B H ad to drill some different holes for that. Terry we already talked about it. Mark where did that door come from? I know from working on Chevrolets that a autozone door and a LMC door are very different.

Larry is that a APU in that box under the sleeper?

I found a place in Texas that handles aftermarket R model doors, they are $255 plus shipping to KC they quoted $100 either on a skid or double boxed with insurance. The doors are made in Taiwan and they said no one has complained about fitment. I have looked at used doors and the least expensive is $400 and its stripped with dings and surface rust. My door I could fix with a patch panel but for the cost of the panel and labor to make it look like I didn't do it is about $450. Suggestions, if I do go this route I will probably replace both doors as they will need to be painted on the inside of the cab side. Here is the PDF for the door M0260B.146105127.pdf

That's where I started at the web site from the info that the museum sent. I contacted Watts and spoke with Amy, I sent here my build sheet stuff she said she would try and track it down for me and let me know. I am keeping my fingers crossed!

just spent a couple hours on the phone and computer pulling my hair out, local Mack wants the part number for the part manual, online does not list parts manuals for 1980, the list goes from 1971 then skips to 1981 and up. Spoke with Mack customer service, they referred me to the Mack museum which they don't have the manual when I spoke with them and they said contact the dealer, dealer said contact Mack customer service, they said contact the dealer, dealer said contact Mack customer service, they said contact the dealer, dealer said contact Mack customer service, they said contact the dealer, dealer said contact Mack customer service, they said contact the dealer, dealer said contact Mack customer service. Any one have a R686 Parts manual they want to sell or copy???

Congrats! looks like you can make a few bucks to use on fixing the old dog up.

Check for power from the turn signal maybe the contacts are corroded, on my old b I had to take it apart and clean then I added some dielectric grease and been fine since

PM your info and I will take a couple pictures of what I have and see if you want them.

wow, was anyone hurt? that guy looked like he was going to turn than panicked when he seen the truck. I guess I am going to get a dash cam where did you get yours?

I have some used ones that I replaced when I updated my brake system. You can have them for shipping and handling. and a user award

I sent an email to the Museum and was told that they can be purchased on line through http://www.macktrucks.com and click on Parts & Service/Parts/Parts Publications. My question has anyone done this and how much do they cost, I tried to follow the directions but it either does not work or I was doing something wrong. It only showed me late model trucks and there was a link for the v-mac. Apparently all models from 1976 on up can be bought. BTW I also asked if the donation link was up and that was still no

Click on the pdf and it will open with a diagram on the bottom of the page with a sequence of order you are suppose to tighten in.

The book I have says final torque 5/8 head bolt studs and nuts 175 ft lbs 5/8 head bolt cap screws is 220 ft lbs 9/16 head bolt 150 ft lbs 3/4 head bolt 175 ft lbs V-8 head bolts 11/16 235 ft lbs Valve Clearances 673,707,711,675,676 Cold Static adjustment Intake .016 Exhaust .024 865,866 intake .016 exhaust .026 cyl head.pdf

JT did you find the culprit for the engine shut down? I was thinking maybe you have a bad connection at one of the sensors or a bad sensor. If you cant hook that fuel shut down to a cable at least put it on a switch for "just in case"