BC Mack

We run 300 buses on disc brakes on all 4 corners, about 30,000lb gross with autotrans and retarders. are they better or cheaper than drum brakes???.... well, the jury is still out... here is some rough math. downtime per axle pad change is about 3hrs... we do that 3 times a year on 80,000km/50,000miles per year... about $250 for pads.... 21mm new, off before 3mm. rotor changes are at 37mm, new is 45mm, no machining done or needed during life... about $300 each.. about every two years. Unable to measure for annual govt inspection, so wheels off if it hasn't been done very recently. calipers... we replace boots on EVERY pad change... if adjuster fails test or boot is burned the caliper is replaced, IIRC $1600 new, no exchange... company policy... there are remans out there but we won't buy them. our calipers electronically read the pad thickness on the dash... you can also check pad thickness by protusion of a guide pin... same as on the big jets actually.. so that is how dot can check lining wear... biggest problem we have is the calipers, we get inbalance across the axle and when it gets more than 3mm difference we take it off the road and tear down everything.. heat.... being a lowfloor bus, poor airflow, 36/36 maxi clamps it hard.... and practically no visual on the brake, can't see anything move with the wheels on... and the heat is cooking wheel bearings in rear as they are grease not oil... ZF axle. never had any serious reports of brake fade, and we do 110kph on freeways as well as city stop/start... I drive them and have found them to be smooth and not jerky.. one opinion... bosses say nothing when asked... we got them with the bus so big learning curve when new.. HTH BC Mack

We use the older B400 and B500, plus the new 'hybrid' which is just an electric B400.... the transmission retarder has been in city buses nationwide for many years, there is also an electric 'Telma' unit for drivelines, heavy loads downhill are normal for us and recent trials for a new bus order study had buses loaded with sandbags disconnect the retarder for the test, most smoked the disc brakes at the bottom of the test hill, they actually had to tow the Orion away. the retarder and trans cooler should be on your list "to be considered" if you plan to be loaded down long hills with these auto's.. we have the programming set for "throttle off" but "brake on" is available but driver feedback was complaints of sore legs on the second option as the retarder held the speed with throttle off and the occasional dab of the brakes. Certification for the bus is done with retarder off and IIRC it is for two full stops within a time period and I was told by our test engineer this is marginal in real life. Probably the same spec Mack has to meet for braking distance so the retarder may be seen as a back-up and not just a lining saver. Transynd is synthetic... I think we pay $7 per litre in bulk but the 24,000km change for ATF is now 72,000km for Transynd, so the math is good. HTH.... and sorry guys for using the 'bus' word so many times.. LOL BC Mack

All I can add to this this discussion is from the maintenance side... ask if it is possible to specify "Transynd" for the oil, or, change over to it on your first change. Talk to the Allison tech rep if you can and ask their opinion. Our fleet of 1200 buses with Allison, Voith and ZF trans all changed over 5 years ago from regular ATF and there has been a significant reduction in failures and overhaul time has increased, it works very well in our retarders with lowered temps... BC Mack

have you considered pulling down the headlining and wall panels and adding insulation to keep heat out?? doesn't appear to be too much in my MH, I'm going to add some just to keep the heat 'IN'.... Canada, eh..!! there are quite a few high tech materials out there, but as I'm 'dollar challenged' I might go with Roxul which is available in batt or board from HD or Lowes... not one to get into fancy paint schemes myself, but a two-tone cab, white from the windshield up and colour down, may help with your heat issue... BC Mack

On the beer run... did you pick up a few tinnies of Fosters????.... if you change your avatar to 'Crocodile Dundee' and start calling us 'bloke' or 'mate' we will begin get worried about you going over the edge. don't worry about the strange driving position.... I started out life on the right side of a truck/bus and drove a 69 Mustang in London... then came to Canada and had to use the other hand to shift, seems normal now, but every now and again I get to drive a former London bus here in Vancouver.... so, you get used to it... until you come to a roundabout, be warned, your brain starts to fail at this time... LOL have fun with it BC Mack

good photo.... that modification would have a dot guy busy filling in your ticket..!!! looks like you need to consider an offset slack adjuster as there doesn't appear to be room for a longer s-cam.. picture was posted earlier IIRC. not much room there..!!! BC Mack

Damn..!!!!!! you can actually BUY a hooker?.... I thought they were 'rental' only... BC Mack

Just to throw a negative in here... devil's advocate... oh well, someone has to do it....... before you consider converting and adding seats into the back of a semi cab, talk with your dot and insurers first... why?... someone has to assume the engineering responsibility as you are modifying the vehicle beyond the manufacturers intended purpose and design which then becomes null and void. they are going to need to determine if seat anchoring is suficient and meets FMVSS, passenger ejection protection and crash worthiness is still maintained.. it may already have a couch in the rear but is it approved for use while in motion?? the insurers will need to know your new passenger count too... they are always looking for an angle to null and void your coverage after a serious or fatal accident and this modification would be it. try and find a vehicle already converted by a professional company approved for modifications... Toterhome..!!! this subject comes up all the time on bus conversion forums, wood stoves nailed into the floor behind the driver are not always a good idea... hope this has not put you off... some may say that it's your truck to do what you want to it but the gubbermint has other plans...!!!!!! BC Mack

Hi KSCarbel.... I certainly don't dispute your info, you are a guru.... it is 1988 data and all the E9 MH's I've looked at were very late models, mines a 93 and built with the Canadian climate in mind... so I formed my logic / judgement from that alone. I'll withdraw my statement then... keep up the good work BC Mack

Yep, one more vote for the Series 60 in an MH..... you'll have to change the mascot from Gold Buldog to Green Frog...!!! one of the easier engines to work on and very reliable... even the old 4 cylinder 50 is FAR better than the Cummins ISL.... given the cost of overhaul on an E9 it is certainly worth thinking about if you plan on working it, the purists may not agree though...!!! no egr/dpf/scr is the way to go. BC Mack

I have an E9 in my MH and it is 12V.... 24V is as an option and not an "E9 given" as you state.. you have checked the batteries and wiring to confirm 24V.. ?? there are 4 batts on both systems. use a voltmeter to check what you have. is there a reason you need to change, are you having problems??? easier to repair your issues than modify.....you can just bypass the master switch if that is sticking... that won't affect anything unless you have an overnight drain. anyway, to answer your question on modifying here are some basics but not everything.... adjust interconnections between batts change starter motor to 12V by replacing it.. the alternator will need to be configured to supply only from 12V stud, or replaced. 24V start needs less amps and usually has smaller cable but drawing shows Mack has installed same 000 cable on both types, saved you some money. the MH electrical system manual can be found on ebay, given your need it may be a good investment before you start ripping the truck apart. I have attached 24V info from the Mack manual to help you find your problem, if you have a 24V system.... if you have 12V I should be able to put the drawing on my scanner keep us informed... BC Mack

WS721 for the little bit extra $$.... buy and fit both you're going to be disturbing the rubber anyway.... and if you fit a new right it will be obvious very quickly how bad the left is... BC Mack

getting hard to find a Mack dealer with stock as they don't want to buy 6 of each (crate size)... a poster on here "BAD DOG" in Ontario CA offered me one but I found a dusty pair at a dealer in Kamloops BC, his last stock. part numbers left is 9QT518M right is 9QT517M PAI lists them as FGW-5765 & -5764 maybe 'farmer52' has a source as I'm sure he posted info this year about finding some. HTH BC Mack

as a trial about 100 of our local Transit buses converted over to these LED headlamps about two years ago, older model buses with oblong lamps, and to pardon the pun... it was a night and day difference.... drivers loved them. some of these buses went for scrap a few months ago and the only mechanical part removed were these lights... however, one pair must have escaped the campaign as the local tow-truck is now sporting a pair of lamps with "New Flyer" embossed on them... not cheap, about $300 a pair with wiring IIRC... but they are definately a better lamp... see what I can do for my MH.... BC Mack

Just be aware you are handling a 'bomb'.... do NOT get curious and try to dismantle the maxi, I really don't want to post our safety departments graphic photos of what the spring will do to your skull... may I politely suggest that this is one aspect of hobby truck repair that should be supervised by a qualified professional if it is your first time repairing air brake parts, this item needs a correct set-up, cutting the pushrod to match the removed one could be an error if the old one was wrongly cut. the angle of the rod to slack adjuster needs to be correct to assure leverage is correct and matched side to side, also a perfect time to inspect other related parts. some good information given here but I personally don't give out instructions on repairs on the internet, be careful applying info you read as it is caveat emptor, not wanting to be an a$$hole but after 40 plus years of doing this I have seen too many obituaries and accident reports. have you looked at the Bendix website? just be careful... if you can find someone to show you through it all the better. now back to your regular programming........

Well... my day off work went like this.. work on my Scenicruiser coach work on my Mack Ultraliner watch the guys moving a vintage locomotive http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCOBSe5_orY all I needed was to see a DC-3 fly by and I'd be totally fulfilled...... BC Mack

Farmer52... thanks very much for this info. I took a good look at the details in the brochure, now, given the fact mine is a 93 and info is 85, could I interperet that I have a level 4???... for example some items that I have that are level 4 'only' are.. front headliner in velour, instrument panel w/velour riders insert, sleeper sides and rear panels in velour.... carpeted tunnel. maybe the difference between.... trim, premium trim and premium velour is what differentiates the different levels. As there is no 'standard' velour are we to presume any velour is 'premium'? Not too woried whether I have 3 or 4 but it is an interesting debate, maybe there is a 3+..? you are looking for the trim to upgrade your truck, would you also need wiring changes for lights? obviously I need to send "that letter" to the Mack Museum to see what my build sheet says. question for all.... the white decals in the cab door jam have faded away, I surmise these are the legal weight, axles, tires etc..... anyone had these reprinted? are they an item I can simply order through any Mack dealer by giving my vin?? BC Mack

Farmer level 3 seems appropriate, your book is 85 and my truck is 93 so there may be some adjustments. it is grey velour and carpet.. however, the velour on the riders panel looks more like purple, must be uv... the door panel is dark grey vinyl top and carpet lower. I was told by the previous owner it was a "high spec" order by the original owner, I'm the 3rd..... pretty sure I have all the options you have listed.. maybe I should get moving on getting my spec sheet from the museum... also need replacement white decals with all the specs, they have faded away. I know it has a twin frame and 20k front axle with two steering boxes to meet the requirements to pull a 'super B' in BC, 63,500kg.. that's 140,000lbs, so it was built with one purpose in mind. once I have the Scenicruiser project finished I will move my brain cells over to the Mack and start putting some more serious thought into it.. there are two more E9 MH613's not far from here, still running, will be in touch with the owner and will send you info on them once I get a happy feeling that they are to be released. BC Mack

I have yet to contact the Mack Museum to get my build sheet, it's on "the list".... I am a little confused between level 3 and level 4 as mine seems to meet level 4 but other info states that was Magnum only.... it has the fabric button seats, carpet on floor and engine hump; the door, pax dash facia, ceiling-wall panels are in the "furry stuff".... what do you think from my photos?? and... if I had ooodles of $$$ and a Landol trailer I would bring them both to the east coast shows for your viewing pleasure... BC Mack

I keep them both at the West Coast Railway Assoc. storage shop in Squamish B.C..... now, I'm not a railway buff but they have an interesting collection, my bus is parked between a vip railcar once used by the Premier of BC and one of the first main-line diesel locomotives in Canada... once the bus is finished the Mack will take its parking spot... the WCRA has little use for space between the rails so that's why I'm there as it is very hard to find undercover shop space in my region that my limited budget can afford. BC Mack

My Ultraliner is still in storage, so a little TLC before the winter sets in..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3y9lWHhGmM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rs_qAtcRb7o http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0abQu_FNno the truck has been off the road since 2004, I plan to pull most of it apart for restoration but it must wait until I finish my current project... warning... this video contains a bus and a two stroke green leaker... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4G6s95Et6IY BC Mack

If you are finding the oil is getting black and a burnt smell you may be overheating it... a nice, but expensive, upgrade is to Transynd... anything with a retarder needs it. Commonly used in transit buses... but it is expensive!!!. otherwise... just what Bob said... ATF from a reliable supplier. BC Mack

Hi Marcel been away and just seen your post... my MH613 is a 93, E9, 12v... the 24v start is an option if ordered.. take a look at how the batteries are linked together. starter solenoid is mounted on shift tower, usually wrapped in a rubber sheath... dumbass in my option... two other areas for bad wires are... 1. multi pin plug behind the rats nest of hoses in left front wheel well, good to clean it out anyway as it serves many systems 2. where hose and wire bundle passes over left front steering box, the half round support edge can pinch/rub wires..undo the tie-wrap and clean this area too I had similar problems... found the +ve #4 wire power supply from solenoid to fuse panel had rubbed and corroded, also same for wire from ign switch to solenoid, same area hope the pics make sense. BC Mack

yes, on the SR61 16 speeds... BC Mack

OK... OK... I'll take my punishment.. should have know better than to come out of the closet with you guys watching.. so, can I say "Scania" on this forum????? LOL BC Mack