BC Mack

JT what he said.... for now just remove the air line and cap it, or remove the valve with line on... figure a way to manually move the lever to 'off' while you go about testing. If engine starts ok but the piston moves out as if to move the shutoff lever on the govenor housing then you have got a fail condition or an electrical short. I would not run for long without an oil pressure gauge to read, fuel pressure can be read by tapping into the spare 1/4pipe fitting on the secondary filter. you WILL need a manual for your truck to see what the trigger is... it could be oil pressure, fuel pressure or alternator signal... there is usually an 'engine shutdown control relay' or 'engine cutout relay' and it will also be tied in with the 'starter control relay', the alarmsat (overtemp shutdown and alarm) and the low coolant sensor. these things are a real pita but are there to save your engine, so don't get too pissed off with it. the ones I have worked on are in GM buses with 71 and 92's but get complicated with front and rear start controls, gear stick microswitches and manual overides... I can't imagine your truck is that difficult, you just need to know what is triggering the shutdown. it is merely a process but the manual and wiring diagram for YOUR truck will be a great help. BC Mack

I assume that you presume the fluid is being restricted by a blockage? and you don't have a collapsed hose.. We have a trans cooler flushing machine at work that we bought from Allison, originally for 748 trans as the heat prior to us going over to Transynd cooked everything inside with the retarder working hard. There were many occurances of trans fluid overheats, even boiling, but after we started to "reverse" flush the coolers on a trans change or shifting problems the issues subsided. The machine filter clogged up after just a few uses so we opened them up and they were full of small black carbon chips and small fibre pieces which our trans shop identified as clutch pack disks. If we found a very large amount of metal in the input end we scrapped it, after sectioning a few of these we found the metal was well impregnated into the matrix and was obvious that it was restricting flow and would not clear with a back flush. We figured an in-house cost of about $400 which included a new gasket... new at that time was $1200... This is on Transit buses which probably have the same rough life as a municpal or trash truck. Our B400/500's still follow the same program but are larger than those installed on 74x series, and with the use of Transynd we have very few problems today. HTH BC Mack

This was on display at a local new HD truck convention.... APNA at Tradex, Abbotsford BC I talked with the owner, Glen Morrow, for some time as I noticed it had bus parts installed, he explained the evolution of design that took place and that he is now down to just a few small issues to finish. It is a working truck and he specialises in moving antique and expensive vehicles rather than general street work. Engine is a Cummins diesel, Allison 5 speed auto trans, Telma driveline retarder out of a Prevost coach and a two speed rear axle on 22.5 6 stud rims. Did JT just started drooling...?? the International was the only other vintage truck I saw there.... too many tricked out Peterbilt's with enough lamps to light a small town, obviously I took no photos of them. BC Mack

Hi bbigrig "I'm waiting patiently for a gentleman who has 2 MH's with E9's to sell them to me. He tells me when he is ready I get first dibbs!!! Until then, I miss that "Thumping" noise." there are two E9 Ultraliners coming up for sale here in SW BC.... too far for you? have not seen them myself yet, second hand info, year and condition unknown, but they are from the same company. if interested, pm me and I can do some digging.. BC Mack

Don Fairchild of Bakersfield CA is the guru behind this two stroke compliant engine, he's often found on bus/RV forums helping out owners with his 8V71 soft turbo conversion which helps them with higher altitude smoking and low power without the need to re-engine their old bus conversions. He has stated that there is a very large market for this epa compliant conversion in the marine industry and may be moving down to TX to support the increase in business.... one year you nearly close down and then you have too much to handle!!!!!! BC Mack

Already there... we've had them for about 5 years now and they all choke at 160km... we had one go to 200km so we took it out and tore it down, it would have lasted one more trip from the findings... Cummins cannot keep up with Transit reman engines nor new parts.. and we are one of the few Transit agencies doing their own rebuilds as most shops are being closed as being "too expensive"...!!! EGR Coolers fail constantly, VG turbo's choke with soot... we even bought our own shaker downdraft tables to clean DPF's... we now have a PM to remove intake manifold heater just to clean the crap out. I rebuild the cylinder heads and most of the valves never make a second trip, all the seats are toast. We got rid of 6V92's and a bulk of the Series 50's under a government initiative to "green" the fleet... the new POS buses smoke more than the two strokes... so, we went and bought 150 Hybrids with a Cummins ISB which idles most of the day and fills the exhaust manifold with oil..!!! Progress? BC Mack

We've rebuilt over 500 Series 50 Transit motors in-house... all bullgear bearings are replaced if gear is being re-used. No info coming from DD so our engineers reversed engineered the spec and came up with a torque of 720 lb/ft for which we use a 4:1 multiplyer... note, it is left hand thread. No failures and many rebuilt more than one time as we do well to get 400,000KM out of a rebuilt city bus engine. Unfortunately, we have done our last rebuild and are buying complete engines from DD... 30% failure rate in first 3 months, mostly migrating bearings in balance shaft.... I'm still rebuilding the heads but that may end this year. Nobody has any positive comments on Reliabilt quality but Management love the price!!!!! modern business? well, it will keep us well employed doing re-re of components from a box.... and the Series 50 is being replaced by Cummins ISL EGR so we WILL be busy as they only last 160,000KM before they choke on their own soot. BC Mack

I would start by hiring a low-loader to take it home..!!!! there is no correct place to start when you take on such a project, regardless of current condition it will need a complete rebuild or VOSA will be talking to you on the road.. the UK vintage truck restoration hobby is growing and facilities to help you are out there, pick up a copy 'Heritage Commercials' or similar at the newsagent and see the workmanship of the restored lorries. The same support industry that supplied all those new parts for your Landy can help you with the Mack.... I certainly wish I was back in the UK restoring buses and trucks, lots of people out there to help you. consider your Mack as a long term restoration project rather than a wash-and-brushup, survey the complete vehicle, determine what you want for an end result, figure your finances, free time, skill sets and a facility to do the work in and all that will determine your completion date. as well as my Mack, I'm doing a bumper to bumper restoration on a 50's Greyhound coach, one person doing all the work... me!!!.. estimated at 5-6000 hours, working weekends... so, nothing about this type of work is speedy... unless you have a fat cheque book. lots of people on this site doing what you want to.... ask Vlad, he's in Russia working on old Macks. sit back, take it all in and form a plan... see, told you it was easy!!!! cheers BC Mack

I did the same... took an old pipe and cut it to about 3", bent into a swan neck.... you can then temporarily remove the delivery valve from the pump element and "spill time" which was more accurate than lining up the stamped markings... especially for the pumps used on Gardner engines which used a scribed line in a window and was always hard to read correctly when the engine was mounted horizontally under the floor of a bus. BC Mack

41Chevy.....yes, I realised you were not comparing them to diesel injector lines.... that same nut in aviation standards is called an AN818... with the correct steel line and steel fittings most airliners run 3000psi hydraulic pressure through them... 39 Baby Mack.... that is one of the styles I've seen... looks like the collar is held in place by the flare. I'll try and scan the old book I have and see if that is what Mack also used in the period. BTW... who made Mack injection pumps and injectors in the early days????? BC Mack

the connector is buried behind the hoses in this pic..... the only time you would need it is to remove the cab. we have the same corrosion issues here in BC... when I was out looking for an MH a former Mack dealer foreman gave me a list of three or four things that were always an issue on the MH, and that plug was number one on the list. that hose and wire bundle in the sleeve guide over the left steering box is worth pulling apart and power washing, I have found salt galore, and a 6ga positive wire chafed through to copper. It amazes me that Mack put the starter solenoid just above the left front tire and simply wrapped it in rubber mat.... hmmm BC Mack

Was planning to go.... but one of my countrymen took out a four lane bridge on I-5 and the traffic is just nuts. BC Mack

yep.... just regular thin wall tubing, will take delivery fuel pressure but not pump to injector pressure... BC Mack

Guess I'll have to ask the question.... why do you want to turn the engine over... are you planning to drive it home? engines that have sat for a long time will have NO oil left in any bearing... and turning an engine over will scratch or score the crank, cam and bore... I used to do it in the old days, a gallon of oil poured on the rockers of a Leyland 600, jerry can of diesel and stuck 24 volts to it 'cos it turned too slow!!!!!! I can understand the desire to 'prove' the engine isn't seized, but in the end you should tear the engine down and check everthing anyway. remember, you are a long way from the supply chain... old Mack parts in the UK are as rare as rocking horse droppings so you need to look after what you've got... got to be same for wheel bearings etc, I can send scary pics if you need them. anyway... just had to put that out there, not trying to ruin the dream.... it's just the 'restorer' in me that says these things.... the red neck says givver!!!!!!!! BC Mack... a former Landy owner (15 of them)

Yes, agreed, I was refering to period engines that I used to work on with CAV injection with pop pressure set at 175 atmos... one of my jobs as an apprentice was to clean injector nozzles and run BPE6B CAV in-line pumps and injectors on a Hartridge test bench... 1940's technology in the 1970's.. some earlier AEC engines had Ricardo heads with a pre-combustion chamber and Pintaux injectors. today, I play with the Cummins ISL in buses.... 29-36,000psi and given the egr and dpf problems I think I would prefer the 1940's Leyland and AEC... no laptops needed... in all the old CAV books I have, I found a document "nipple forming tools", got to be 40's or 50's... it shows the tool and process for forming pipe ends on 6/8/10mm pipe... if anyone wants to see it I can try and scan for posting here.... but, it looks pretty straightforward, all you need is the right pipe, right tool, right dies... hence, get them made at a pump shop..!!! BC Mack

as the other guys have said..... get a pump shop to make them.... nowhere near a car brake line flare... but go ahead and make supply lines from tank to pump yourself. I had some made for a 1940's AEC (CAV-Simms) many years ago in the UK and they had a pre-made nipple sweated on each end, not a formed flare....so would the Mack flare ends of that era be similar?.... anyone got a close up of the injector pipe end?? I thought the usual injection pressure for a direct injection engine was 175 atmospheres in that time ( x 14.7 to get psi) so that would bring it to 2500psi. BC Mack

Per the Isometric drawing, item 49 is the cab ground... it appears to be located just below and behind the centre of the dash... not seen that on mine but would assume it to be a stud... the wire appears to feed through the harness to the multi-plug connector next to the air-line connector block below the cab... and the chassis ground is just beside the left steering box (I have seen that on mine)... as Farmer 52 has mentioned, jumper to any good ground source to see if it corrects the problem... you may have poor connections within the dash panel. Repair maybe a new jumper from the gauge. Plastic cabs and electrics are a problem.... BC Mack

Ssshhhhhhh, PC police might be watching this...... can't call it that anymore!!!!!!!!!! In concept, yes...... 6x2 of the 80's was usually a lift axle in 3rd position, IIRC the weight was 38ton then... current production from, say, the parent of Mack is the FH16-700 6x2 with hydraulically steered 2nd axle is 44ton capable. I'm not as in tune with modern day EU trucks but with better electronics to control these steering axles, the second row would certainly give an advantage in turning. those 8 leggers were a money maker back in my day, from farm boy to millionair fleet owner was possible in the building frenzy of the 70-90's. Apologies to KSCarbel for stealing your thread.... BC Mack

The concept of the 'Chinese Six' goes back to the 30's in the UK... as mentioned, it was an easy way to balance axle loads and prevented front axle overloading which was its main advantage. There was a revival in the late 60's when used in tractor units, legislation was pending to align UK and EEC regs but on five axles and for this the manufacturers thought it was easier to pre-empt with the Chinese Six tractor rather than a three axle trailer.. the legislation never came and the production ended quickly... it took many years before UK and EU weights were married. I worked on many of these POS short tractors, no room to work, imagine doing a clutch on a fixed cab cabover with a steer axle right under the tranny...!! Scammell seemed to have a big market as I remember many used by Shell and BP Oil... even Bedford utilised the concept in their front engined VAL coach. the four axle on a rigid frame, twin steer with one and sometimes two drivers was built in great numbers as at 30 ton vs. tractor-trailer 32ton it served the "tipper" industry well, dump truck in American parlance.. Why "Chinese Six"? well, in the politically incorrect past it was a tongue in cheek reference to Chinese writing "backwards", which is what the axle relationship was to a normal three axle "lorry"..... BC Mack .

Welcome to the forum from a fellow MH owner... please post some pictures... you are in Mendoza..!!! a few years ago the bus company I work in Vancouver Canada for exported about 80 Trolleybuses to that city... your city bus company restored some and I've seen youtube video of them... we wore them out and you guys found a new life for them..!!!!!! BC Mack

Marcel, mines a 93 MH613, E9 500, twin stacks, T2180 trans, on Mack air.... currently stored awaiting time to restore... and I really like that paint job Vision, would look good in red... hmmm BC Mack

found the old hub I removed after the 'technician' overtightened the left wheelnuts.... note the crack in the alum hub. BC Mack

I had a quick session with my clutch today, rechecked the pressure plate movement, springs etc.... gave it some rapping with an airchisel... but after firing up it was no different... probably need to go for a drive but given my timelines and other projects this truck will just have to wait for my current project to be finished and I will yank out that tranny... took some pics to show the access and how forward the clutch is.... GEOD998... if you get lucky let us know BC Mack

don't think that will work, aperture in trans bellhousing is too far back on my T2180, the periphery bolts are only just reacheable, someone else commented that the roadranger has an aperture more foreward and maybe your idea would be doable on that trans.. but, will have another look at your idea this weekend.... I could possibly install retaining bolts into cover plate, remove periphery bolts and give it all a shake, but pretty sure I will not be able to view the disks... since we all work better on this site with pictures... I will try to get a few and post them... thanks for the idea though.. BC Mack

GEOD998 now I have eliminated clutch cable or adjustments I've got it figured down to three potentials on a multi disk clutch.. 1. front friction disk stuck to flywheel face 2. front friction disk stuck to spline of trans input shaft and being driven by flywheel face 3. centre plate stuck in drive lugs and jamming front disk to flywheel that's my summary so far, I'm hoping that an air chisel at the weekend will teach it a lesson..!!! I would like to take it for a drive as I think it will cure my problem but unfortunately it is parked in an awkward corner and starting it in gear and trusting I can shut it off or stall it before hitting a wall is raising my pucker facter a few notches... and, as it is not heading for the road but continued storage I can wait to do the repair the safe way and if that means pulling the trans, so be it. BC Mack