1951 Mack LJ

I have no interest in fixing it. Just don't want to scrap it if there was someone out there needing it for parts.

I bought a truck and it came with a T2090 that was pulled from truck because it broke. Not sure what is wrong with it. Is there any value in these as parts or should I just haul it in for scrap?

I didn't put a tape measure to both my RW713 and CL700. Both have E9-500. But if it was feasible and I came across the cab, hood and stuff i might be up for the challenge. Looks like the dual steering boxes are in the same location but the CL has longer springs with a lot of setback on the axle.

If the shift cylinder is leaking does it leak into the transmission case? I have air leaking out a breather on the top of the transmission housing under the shift cylinder. Everything shifts fine but trying to fix all air leaks.

Haven't looked at the mounts and measurements yet but how hard would it be to put a superliner 2 cab and hood on a CL700 chassis. I just bought a 1994 CL700 with E9-500 but I don't like the exterior or interior compared to my Superliner 2.

I was seeing 20psi on almost flat ground empty. And I don't know if I trust the factory gauge in the overhead console. Will have to get a load of gravel in it and go pull some hills.

Had the charge air cooler flushed and tested at the local radiator shop and it tested good.

Well seems like everything i have done has helped a little. Pulled injectors and had rebuilt. That helped a fair amount. What really woke this old truck up was pulling the side covers off the v pump and spraying about half a large can of WD40 on the linkages and all parts inside.worked the throttle by hand a bunch and sprayed more WD40. Let it soak for 24 hours and then drove it. Running strong now. Empty on small hills near home was building over 20 psi boost on the factory gauge and pulling hard. Put about 15 ton of dirt in the box and drove around the property and you wouldn't know it was loaded.

Any updates to bringing dynatards back to life. My Mack 237 with dynatard holds good on hills with 30,000 gross. Would like to get my E9-500 creating some engine breaking.

I been trying to buy everything Made In USA but Goodyear wants almost $1,000 per tire and these Yokohama were around $600. Made in Japan is better than the crap China tires that have weak sidewalls.

Got the wheels back from powdercoating and new tires.

Cloverdale Industrial Enamel. Self priming and rust inhibitors. Not super fancy but really strong and sticks to anything.

Getting things painted up before I get the wheels back from being powdercoated.

Thanks for the help. I actually found a dealer in Washington that can order paper manuals for around $40 each so going that route. 6 to 8 weeks because of the holidays but worth it for the price and brand new.

I don't have anything to put a cd in. Ten years ago that would have been a good option. I am thinking about downloading a pdf and printing the whole thing.

I haven't been very active on BMT for the last decade. I bought this dump truck a year ago and been working on getting it back up and going. It was originally a Canadian 5th wheel truck converted to a dump truck. Has the E9-500 with 12 speed. 20k steer and mack rears on camelback. Really could use some shop manuals if anyone has extras they would part with.

Haven't posted in awhile. Still running the R Model and hauled hundreds of loads of gravel.

Thanks for the info. I didn't want to overfill it or not put enough in.

1980 Mack R685T 2 axle dump truck.

There is 2 fill plugs. Which one do I fill to?

Yes the v style Ambac pump. I pulled the boost tube after the intercooler and it was getting a ton of air pushed through from the turbo so I figured it wasn't blocked up with oil residue. I been thinking it was the pump for awhile but hoping I was missing something cheaper. The only pump shop within a few hours said they don't have parts to rebuild the pump. I also surfaced the exhaust manifolds and checked for cracks in the exhaust feeding the turbo. Should I check for fuel pressure from the lift pump at full throttle and if so how many psi should it hold?

I bought this 1987 Superliner with the E9-500 and drove it home over 300 miles. It would barely run up to 1,400 rpm and little power above 1,000 rpm. Thinking that since it had zero maintenance for what looked like a decade I was hoping it was going to be plugged fuel filters or old fuel lines. After getting home I replaced the air filter, fuel filters, fuel lines from the tank, had the turbo rebuilt, checked for intercooler leaks, intake gasket leaks and fuel pressure after the lift pump was around 25 psi at idle. But still zero boost. Puff limiter was pulled before I bought the truck. It idles smooth and runs up to 1,700 rpm but no power above about 1,000 rpm or so. Has dual exhaust and doesn't seem like it is plugged. I checked the fuel return check valve and everything looked intact. Even pinched the return line some with a c clamp incase the spring was weak in the return check valve. What do I check now?

Thanks for the info. I just get tired of guessing torque specs and things.

I have owned the 1980 R model 5 yard Dump truck for over 12 years and just recently bought the 1987 Superliner. I work on everything myself but having troubles finding shop manuals. The 1980 R model 5 yard is double framed with the 237 and 8LL. The 1987 Superliner has the E9-500 12 speed and mack rears on camelback. Anyone out there with extra manuals they might part with would be greatly appreciated.

Have a 1951 DuPlex along the garage I just can't haul to scrap. What is a fair price for one of these? I would like to find it a new home and not on a boat ride to China for scrap.