doubleclutchinweasel

That's about the luck I have, too!

You may have a point there. He might just have to swap the spiders. The hub and drum may not even need to come off. But, I do not know for sure. Hell, I'm just happy when somebody asks a question I know a little about! Most of the guys on here know so much that I feel too dumb to answer most of the questions! Sure do miss Glenn. He could have told exactly what was needed.

Yes, you would need a set of small spiders. I'm sure the junk yards are full of them. Maybe even some new sources still out there. Some were made by Kelsey-Hayes, some by Gunite. Not sure who all made them. I know Accuride USED to sell new ones, but I do not know if they still do. I'm sure some of these guys will have the part numbers for the hubs and related parts (brake drums, bearings, etc.). Probably somebody on here wanting rid of some 'cause they put Budds or Alcoas on one. Might even be somebody looking for the "big" ones you have. Incidentally, I had mine backwards in my first post. The 10.00-20 tube types were on the front and the 11.00-22.5 tubeless were on the back. Brain slipped there for a minute. When I got it, there was a mix of both types on the rear. But I found a good deal on a bunch of recaps and made the rear more uniform. The fronts were pretty good, so I never messed with them.

If memory serves!!!! If not, somebody will correct me!!! Small spider takes 20" tube type and 22.5" tubeless tires. Large spider takes 22" tube type and 24.5" tubeless tires. So, 20" and 22.5" are interchangeable. 22" and 24.5" are interchangeable. To change between those 2 groups requires different spider. I had 20" tube type on the rear of mine, and 22.5" tubeless in the front. Those were interchangeable.

I believe there are 2 different styles. One has 3 bolts and the other is like Mecho is describing (one bolt and a key). Both have a splined bore on the other end to accept the P/S pump shaft, IIRC. Here is one example... And here is another style... Part "B" in the image... Both the part numbers in the list I posted still pull up on Google from various sources. So, I believe the numbers are still good.

Agreed.

This one's a little easier to see...

Yes, you can find a compressor that has an open back to attach a power steering pump. Be careful swapping compressors. Some (all?) have an oil feed tube that goes into the front of the input shaft which can easily be lost during the operation. Here is a little light reading for you... Mack_Tu-Flo Power Steering.pdf And here is a picture of a Bendix compressor on an ENDT-673C. The power steering pump is circled in red.

Oh, hell. Here we go again! https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

Just now saw this. I am much saddened by the loss of such a wonderful guy. My thoughts and prayers to the family.

Not sure if this is the same axle, but it is the same type of end. Do you know the model number of the axle (located on front, passenger's side)? Look through the attached PDF file. Near the end, it actually has dimensions for the ends. If they match yours, you might have somewhere to start from. Front Axle.pdf

We used to paint all the interior surfaces on out "hot rod motors" with Rustoleum. Sealed everything and made the oil drain back faster (or at least that is what the rumor was). Beautiful work...as always.

I did not not know this until I saw it yesterday. But, Craig Sagehorn died earlier this year (March). Craig was Paul Sagehorn's dad. Paul is the one who had the "Movin' On" truck and still has (I think) the "BJ & the Bear" truck. His dad continued to drive long after most would have hung it up. So, my (much) belated condolences to the whole Sagehorn family.

This rebuilder lists all kinds of part numbers for that series of transmission. They just might be able to tell you what the difference is. Notice that they show 2 different output shaft numbers right off the bat. https://www.transaxle.com/products/transmissions/volvo/volvo-t310p

What years were the Sightliners made? Didn't they come out in '57 or thereabouts?

Seems like I've spent half my life in that airport!

Waiting...waiting...

Just went back and re-read the original post. If pulling out the choke cools things off, then it definitely sounds like a lean mixture. But... I think everybody here has listed all the normal issues. Inadequate cooling. Intake leaks. Lean mixture. Timing too advanced (hot piston/detonation). Timing too late (burns exhaust valves). Fuel octane (too low = detonation, too high = burnt exhaust valves). There are only a certain number of things here to look at. I'll be curious to hear the eventual solution, as I'm sure all the others will be.

That is sweet!

Holy s#!t!

I know what you mean there. Mine did not take that long, but it was miserable seeing her like that.

Me too. Top one looks too tight around the tire. Bottom looks more "R-like" to me.

I miss Rob. He knew a buttload of stuff.

They ran those off overhead line shafts. Big flat belt from the shaft to the lathe. To reverse it, you’d twist the belt. Have run many of these converted to electric motor.

Trying to put one in gear without a clutch brake when it's pointed uphill or downhill can be a bit of a chore. Best to leave them in gear when stopping and don't be trying to put it in needlessly.