doubleclutchinweasel

Is that the gray interior, galvanized cab? Those can be pretty sought-after.

Yeah, Joe, I think that list only ran through 1990. Sorry I didn't Pay more attention to the date on it! Thanks for the correction.

I've seen guys on here talk about houses that DO rebuild these pumps. So, I would assume you are correct, and one would just need the know-how to do it. I'm sure somebody here will have some detailed advice. How's the wing?

Looks like the last H was in 1959. Last G looks like 1962. Last F appears to be 1981. MH ran till 1990. All those dates came off the ubiquitous Mack production sheet (attached), unless I missed a date! I think the CruiseLiner ran till 1984 (according to Mack's website). Mack Production.pdf

That's what mine had, and they worked great...as long as you kept the mud dauber nests out of them! That design worked for decades.

And we thank you for that post!

I think you are both right. Different vintage engines had different starting instructions. I have seen both the half-pedal and the full-pedal instructions.

Diesels like a little heat. Cold diesels tend to build up crud. I think mine was a 170° thermostat, but the shutters controlled the heat from there to...I want to say...190°? I can't remember exactly. There are people on here that will remember those numbers in detail. I HAVE seen trucks with the shutters deactivated run a 180 or even 185° thermostat with no reported issues. Again, there are real pros on here that can guide you way better than I can!

Yep. We always called them "freeze plugs", but, in reality, they should be called "core plugs", since their PRIMARY function is to allow sand to be poured out of the casting after the iron cools. Usually, if anything freezes and pushes out a plug, there's already more damage done than you want! I am pretty sure the ones on my truck screwed into the block. And, Like bob said, one had been taken out and a heater screwed in that hole. I BELIEVE mine was in the center hole in the block, but I do not remember for certain. They have probably been put into different holes at one time or another.

Inside the red oval is the wiring I found for mine. Seems like the heating element was screwed into one of the water jacket plug holes, if I remember correctly.

Mine was a cable coming out the water jacket on the driver's side of the block. I will see if I can find a picture somewhere.

Here is two of the transmission identification charts floating around out there. There are others. The second one is more appropriate to your "107" number. Lots of guys here can help you with the engine codes.

What he said. Block heater makes more difference than anything else. On the '70 I had, I found the wiring for the existing block heater folded up and twist-tied together, tucked in behind the oil cooler. Apparently, nobody had ever been aware it was there. I ohmed it out to make sure it wasn't shorted to ground, plugged it in, and voila! Made a huge difference on these cold mornings.

Once you narrow it down, these suppliers also have the stud and shank dimension listed in their literature. So, you can do a final comparison of the numbers you find with the actual parts on the truck. So, you'll have a pretty good idea if they steered (no pun intended) you in the right direction, even before you start pulling the old stuff out.

By that time, hadn't Mack already started the "even is gas, odd is diesel" numbering scheme? Hence, A50-gas, A51-diesel?

Okay. I haven't had anything to say on this one up until now. Just been enjoying reading it! First off, I have to point out again how similar the Aussies think to us old hillbillies! We seem to try to make the most out of what we've got to work with. Probably for the same reasons! Where I grew up, we didn't have the luxury of trotting down to the local store and grabbing new parts...nor the money to do that. So, we got really good at salvaging what we had and working with what we could get. Anyhow, regardless of whether you can find a newer engine to drop into that thing, I would still be tempted to pull that one all the way down, and for 2 reasons. First, it still may be salvageable. But, even if it isn't, it would be great experience to pull it apart and see how everything inside there works. And what you have left would be no less valuable than what it is now. I once bought 2 400 Pontiac engines for a project I was doing. One was running and the other was locked-up. When it was all said and done, I ended up using way more of the locked-up one than the running one. Anyway, I'll go back over here in the weeds now and just watch what happens!

A little more info. A link to a Meritor parts listing and a sample page. Also a Euclid link and a sample page. Notice they even list the Mack-specific combination for one axle where Mack used RH threads on both ends, but with a coarse thread on one and a fine thread on the other. https://dimnsa.com/catalogos/descargas/PB8951 Eje Frontal.pdf https://www.doverbrakeinc.com/downloads/catelogs/EUCLID CATALOG FRONT END 760C.pdf

Nice!

A good place to start MIGHT be to see if there is a number on the RH end of the axle beam (FA534, FA535, FA536, etc.). This should tell what series the axle is. From there, there are lots of places to look up the ends. Mack has done some strange things through the years on tie rods and ends. But, knowing what axle you have to start with might be a good place to start, at least.

I can't help but remember this one whenever I hear about a bandsaw incident. Sorry, no pictures. Well, maybe NOT that sorry. Anyway, we had an operator running an automated vertical bandsaw, slotting tapered mounting bushings. These bushings sat on a locating fixture, and the operator presses the Cycle Start button. The saw table would rapid advance to the point where the OD of the bushing would almost touch the saw blade. Then, it would feed slowly through the wall of the bushing. The saw would then rapid across the bore of the bushing, and approach the other side. This wall would then be cut partially through. The table would then retract and the operator could swap out the part for a new one. Repeat ad nauseum. On one cycle, as the blade emerged from the first wall, he stuck his finger in the bore of the bushing and tried to remove it...before it was finished. With the finger securely in the hole in the bushing, the saw rapid advanced to the other side. The blade split his index finger from the tip to the first joint. We called the ambulance. They came and got him. It was several days before he came back. Once back, our safety committee asked him to explain exactly what happened, so they could try to improve the situation. He did a fantastic job of explaining exactly what he did, even pointing out what he did wrong. Problem is, when he demonstrated what he did wrong, he took it a little too far. Using the index finger on the OTHER hand...yep, you guessed it...he actually DID IT AGAIN! We called the ambulance...again. When he returned this time, we kept him far away from things that cut. To this day, that guy has 2 perfectly matched, longitudinally-split forefingers. I'm sure the joints are not perfect either. LTK, glad you are on the way back. And kudos for having the guts to tell what really happened. Best of luck in the recovery.

I think it sucks. And the only way I can think of to fix its suckiness is to park it in my driveway. Then it would be cool.

Waiting...waiting...waiting...!

The '67 I used to drive had a through-the-floor clutch pedal like a B, and a mechanical linkage. The '70 I had used a hanging pedal and a cable. Lots of variations out there.

Those First Gear Diecast trucks are pretty cool. I have several of them.

Here are a couple of pictures from 2 different pages in a service manual. I think one is for air operated and one is for electric. See if any of the notes help with anything. I think B1 and B2 are from the same page, and B3 and B4 are from the other page.