doubleclutchinweasel

I've been wrapped up in a many of those D-handle drills! Wrist. Breakers.

I have also used Vaseline to coat things I didn't want painted. Used it a lot on gauges and such.

My '70 had 2 hoses, side-by-side. No selector for the air. I think the selection on that one was automatic, based on the temperature, by a bi-metal coil....IF I remember correctly.

I remember a tuck I drove one trip. It had a single disc with no clutch brake (or it didn't work!). On level ground, it would go in after about 5-6 seconds. If the truck was pointed uphill or downhill, the clutch disc would rub the flywheel or the pressure plate just enough to keep the blasted thing spinning while the clutch was in! It was a PITA to get it into gear on a hill. Figured out pretty quickly to make sure it was in gear BEFORE stopping on the hills. Like I said. Only had to deal with it for one trip.

Like others have said, the "613" indicated an ENDT-673 engine. The "S" indicates "six wheel" (tandem) chassis. Those "double splined" axles are the ticket. We had those on all our heavy spec stuff. Usually carried spares in the truck (as well as a set of U-joints). You definitely have a couple of good trucks to play with there.

Like others have said, the "613" indicated an ENDT-673 engine. The "S" indicates "six wheel" (tandem) chassis. Those "double splined" axles are the ticket. We had those on all our heavy spec stuff. Usually carried spares in the truck (as well as a set of U-joints). You definitely have a couple of good trucks to play with there.

Refresh my memory. Does the "N" signify "no brakes" on the front axle???

Shame I don't have anything to put it on!

I'm not sure if that uses the same parts as a regular FA532 or not. Maybe some of the more enlightened here can shed some light on it. I can't find an FA(W)532 in any of my other literature. So, that one's a mystery to me. Maybe you can measure the thread sizes (and pitches) and compare to the dimensional sketches in those catalogs to find something that will work. As long as the tapers are the same, the threads are the same, and the lengths are reasonably close, they will work. I hate to pull one apart to get these numbers, 'cause that leaves it undriveable! But, sometimes it takes that to get the dimensions. I'll keep digging through some of my old stuff and see what I can find.

I'm glad you are improving.

Had air assist steering on the '67 R I drove. Really nice to drive. Did use a lot of air when weaseling around in the yard. Cylinder would sometimes back off from the cap, and I had to spin it back on. Was really nice on the road, though. That single-axle could still be a Mack double-reduction setup. Can't really tell from the pictures. A single-axle is a bit easier to maintain on a toy truck, in my opinion. But, whatever you do, I think you have a couple of nice toys to work with.

In particular, check out kscarbel's comments part-way down the page...

Can't help you with that! Somebody will. A couple of interesting reads about Crown and Orrville. http://www.coachbuilt.com/bui/c/crown_steel/crown_steel.htm http://www.coachbuilt.com/bui/o/orrville/orrville.htm

Is that the gray interior, galvanized cab? Those can be pretty sought-after.

Yeah, Joe, I think that list only ran through 1990. Sorry I didn't Pay more attention to the date on it! Thanks for the correction.

I've seen guys on here talk about houses that DO rebuild these pumps. So, I would assume you are correct, and one would just need the know-how to do it. I'm sure somebody here will have some detailed advice. How's the wing?

Looks like the last H was in 1959. Last G looks like 1962. Last F appears to be 1981. MH ran till 1990. All those dates came off the ubiquitous Mack production sheet (attached), unless I missed a date! I think the CruiseLiner ran till 1984 (according to Mack's website). Mack Production.pdf

That's what mine had, and they worked great...as long as you kept the mud dauber nests out of them! That design worked for decades.

And we thank you for that post!

I think you are both right. Different vintage engines had different starting instructions. I have seen both the half-pedal and the full-pedal instructions.

Diesels like a little heat. Cold diesels tend to build up crud. I think mine was a 170° thermostat, but the shutters controlled the heat from there to...I want to say...190°? I can't remember exactly. There are people on here that will remember those numbers in detail. I HAVE seen trucks with the shutters deactivated run a 180 or even 185° thermostat with no reported issues. Again, there are real pros on here that can guide you way better than I can!

Yep. We always called them "freeze plugs", but, in reality, they should be called "core plugs", since their PRIMARY function is to allow sand to be poured out of the casting after the iron cools. Usually, if anything freezes and pushes out a plug, there's already more damage done than you want! I am pretty sure the ones on my truck screwed into the block. And, Like bob said, one had been taken out and a heater screwed in that hole. I BELIEVE mine was in the center hole in the block, but I do not remember for certain. They have probably been put into different holes at one time or another.

Inside the red oval is the wiring I found for mine. Seems like the heating element was screwed into one of the water jacket plug holes, if I remember correctly.

Mine was a cable coming out the water jacket on the driver's side of the block. I will see if I can find a picture somewhere.

Here is two of the transmission identification charts floating around out there. There are others. The second one is more appropriate to your "107" number. Lots of guys here can help you with the engine codes.