doubleclutchinweasel

It's for a different setup (R model), but maybe this will give you something to think about at least. The "Stop Light Switch" is in the "trailer service" line, downstream of the double check valve. This way, the brake lights come on if either the trolley valve or the treadle valve are operated. The schematic shows this a long way from the treadle, but, in reality, it was right there at it.

"Service" line, not "emergency" line. Service line should get pressure when you hit the pedal.

Should be able to move that switch to any fitting anywhere from the treadle valve to one of the tees in the rear lines and get it to work, now that he's got power. I think mine (R model) was at the treadle valve itself. But, that can be a pain to work on. I think they put it there, near the double check valve, so that either the treadle valve or the trolley valve would actuate it. I also had another switch, I believe, at the parking brake valve which turned on the brake lights when the parking brakes were set. It can be located, literally, anywhere in a line that gets pressurized when the pedal is depressed. Depends on whether or not it's going to have a trailer on it as to how the trailer brake plumbing plays into the picture.

Yeah. We're singin' the same tune!

Sorry, 'Train! You typed yours faster than I did mine! LOL!

I'm late jumping in here, and I may be WAY off base. But, the place the switch is screwed into says "tractor emergency". Isn't that SUPPOSED to have pressure on it? Believe that's connected to the "truck tractor protection valve". Maybe that's not the right location for the switch? Try tee-ing into one of the actual lines going to the rear service brake chambers? Again, I may not be seeing the right stuff, and I am no B model expert. So, don't yell at me too loud!

If you check out some of LTK's other projects, you'll see that everything he does looks like that. Quite the artist.

It’s funny. All this wheel cylinder stuff seems all too fresh in my mind. Seems like only yesterday. But it was over 40 years ago.

Saw that, as well as a wikipedia article on RE Fulton, Jr., which mentions it also. But, I have yet to find anything "official" that says there was a Fulton at the helm of Mack. I keep finding the same list that is shown above.

Think we've hijacked the poor guy's thread! But, anyhow... I never did a Quad like that. But, I did change the clutch on a C60 Chevy on the side of the road by myself one night with no jack and very few tools.. Walked about a mile to an auto parts store to get the parts. About 4:30-500 PM. Wrapped chains around the box. Looped the chains over a couple of pieces of pipe laid on top of the frame. Put 2 ratchet binders on to tighten it up and adjust the height as it went out and in. Used a pipe wrench to turn the pipes, rolling them along the frame. Had a come-along tied to the rear to hold it back. Lots of stuff in the way of those rolling pipes. Seems like I had to tie it up once or twice to move the pipes around some obstacle. Got just enough room to get it apart without hanging up on the input shaft. Could NOT find anything the right size to pilot the disc...eyeballed it...through a mirror...with a flashlight. Not ideal! Going back in, of course, it wouldn't spline up. Used the come-along to pull it forward, and pushed in the clutch, and bumped the starter. In it went. Got it buttoned up about 3:00-4:00 AM. Went on home. I would not attempt that now for love nor money. But, I was young...and stupid. Didn't have anywhere else to be right then anyway! No cell phones. Nobody to call for help if we had them. Can't remember all the details now. It's been over 40 years. But, I came close to laying down under the truck and giving up more than a few times.

Been there, done that, too! Always seemed to be the one swinging the hammer! Yeah, those "new", bolt-together, oil-filled tracks are way better. I remember on the old style, we had a running joke that you would walk the tractor a half-mile out of the way to run through a mud hole...just to stop them from squeaking for a few seconds. Saw a lot of stupid stuff back then. Saw a few people hurt, too. But, for the most part, everybody walked away with all their body parts intact. I tell the safety people here all the time, "I never worked more safely than when I knew what I was working on could get me killed."

Is that anything like how we used to loosen the pad bolts on dozer tracks? Put the breaker bar, socket, and cheater pipe on the bolt. Pull or back up to a tree. Have one idiot stand on the head of the breaker bar, and have the other idiot ease the cheater pipe against the tree by moving the tractor. I usually was the idiot standing on the wrench, by the way! Hell of a racket when the bolt came loose. Worse when the tools exploded.

Thanks for the update. Glad you got it sorted out.

I hope you find this. It’s one of those things I wish I could see in person. I love a mystery! Strange it’s only in lo range. And that it only grinds during shift. Said nothing about grinding during up or down range shifts. No grinding in high range. No grinding under acceleration or deceleration. A video would be awesome. As you can tell, there are enough guys on here with enough experience to fix most anything. Onyx, Mech, JoJo, FJH just to name a few. If these guys can’t fix it, it ain’t broke.

Incidentally, I bought some off-brand primer to put in the R once, because the original was leaking. The new one worked, but I never could get it to seal in the housing. Leaked around the threads. Bought a set of seals from a pump shop in Knoxville and rebuilt the factory piece. Worked fine from then on.

I just wondered if there is something in the air system that could be causing it to try to go to hi-range when there is no load on the trans.

Yeah, once in a while...

F? JoJo? Thoughts? You know that system WAY better than I do.

Nothing like a pressure-filled fluid system!

Something wonky in the air system, causing the range shift or the splitter to try to shift unintentionally? Pinched/cut air line? Bad piston seal? Bad valve? JoJo and FJH can work miracles for you, if you can give them enough info to work from. If it works right in hi range, that might be a clue.

Definitely there through some of the best stuff.

I still can't get over that truck. I wanna say it looks like it just rolled off the assembly line. But, I think that might be an insult. I don't know that they ever looked that good from the factory. Only thing wrong with it is that it's not sittin' in my driveway. That would make it better.

I think I mentioned this before. A local construction outfit had a green one when I was young. One of the owner's sons crashed it with a fuel tanker behind it and died. They later put a blue/white Pete cab kit on it. Still had the green frame, and a couple of the gauges still had the pentastar on them. I drove that mongrel one trip across town. Always felt eerie sittin' in it.

I was still doing construction work when the D10 Cat tractor first came out. It was the object of a running joke the old guys used to pull on the new operators. It's in pretty poor taste, but, if anybody wants to hear it...

Not much help, but a picture... Probably have a better chance of finding a left-over E4465B than an actual Mack 301SQ32B......IF that's even the right thing. Just trying to give you a starting point. Ask Watts? Might have to have a local machine shop turn you some new bushings. Or, look through industrial catalogs for a Teflon-lined sleeve bearing