doubleclutchinweasel

"EN" is for engine. "D" is for diesel. "L" is for the lightweight aluminum bell housing, I believe. "T" is for turbocharged. "C" is the particular revision. This is, I think, the last version of this particular Thermodyne. This is a 250HP, 700 ft-lb, turbocharged 672 cu. in. Thermodyne. A very good engine.

I think the "vision" is an important thing that some people lack. It really helps if you can see where you want to wind up in your mind before you start. I'll sometimes do an unfamiliar task in my head several times before I do it for real, and then it isn't technically the "first time"! It's already been done in my head! Or, as an acquaintance of mine put it, "Those who don't know where they are going often end up somewhere else." You definitely knew where you were going...and you're damn-near there! All the accolades that have been piled on your work in this thread are genuine...and well-deserved. Thanks for taking us along on the ride with you.

I think on mine the cables were swapped at the starter.

I think the dogs on the flaps are correct. And, here is why. Mack's policy was that any dog viewed from the side should appear to be moving forward. So, on angled things, like mirrors, the dogs appear to be facing forward when viewed from the side if they are facing inward. But, since the mudflaps are angled the opposite way from the mirrors, the dogs appear to be facing forward as they are now. So, I believe they are following Mack's guidance. Somebody posted that paper on here once. Can't remember who. Rob, maybe?

It's not that hard to convert most of it to negative ground. The amp meter (if it is a single post like mine was) will have to be changed out to a dual post so you can reverse the needle.

Seems like we've covered this on here before, don't it Larry?!

Can't wait to see what this turns into...

Most of the time, we only used 7 or 8 gears...even loaded.

Here is some numerical info on the 14-speed gear ratios. hey really are not that different from the 18-speed. It's probably called a 14-speed because, if loaded really heavy, you would usually start in Lo-Lo 1st, then go to Lo-Split 1st, then pick up the "normal" sequence. On occasion, I tried using the Lo-Lo 2nd, then going to Lo-Split 1st, but the road speed was really too low to make that work well. So, the 18-speeds we had were really "14-speeds", too. Ignore the "18" on the shift plate. I didn't have a good picture of a 14-speed plate!

That is a double-overdrive trans. Shifting is pretty much the same as an 18-speed version. Even in the 18, 14 speeds were really about all you could use, anyway. The 20-speed is a single overdrive, and the sequence is different in high gear. Somewhere, I have the ratios for that box. I will try to find them. The Quadruplex is my all-time favorite Mack transmission.

Let us know how it works out. Like the man said, "I learn from the mistakes of people who took my advice."

Could not get the fuel gage to work. Not sure if that was due to the polarity or not. like I mentioned earlier, the cables were swapped at the starter. Otherwise the starter would turn the wrong way. All the lights were fine. Used the internal regulator in the alternator, and left the old regulator unhooked. It was really not much of a big deal.

Hopefully, it doesn't change any more!

Here are a couple of useful links... https://www.eaton.com/rr/CustomerSupport/Support/LiteratureCenter/index.htm?sfield=xPublicationDate&sorder=Desc&pagenum=1&litlibtarget=1162919212402 http://www.roadranger.com/rr/CustomerSupport/Support/LiteratureCenter/index.htm?sfield=dDocTitle&sorder=Asc&pagenum=1&litlibtarget=1162919212406

In fact, look at page 119. Shows in detail how things are connected.

This almost qualifies for my "pull them all off and put on one line at a time" theory. I mean, like Jo-Jo pointed out, there just aren't that many lines on one of these blasted things. Without seeing where the air leak is, it's really hard to pin it down. If there isn't a leak on the range piston O-ring, causing air to bypass it, then it has to be one of the external valves or a crossed line. I'd still bet on a crossed line first. Here's a manual for a typical 13-speed. Start down about page 20. Has descriptions of the air system and some troubleshooting instructions. Other models would be similar. I have a few more of these handy, if I knew which trans you had. TRSM0660-2007-14613.pdf

Looks like they talked him into it! The Southern Classic Truck Show HAS been re-scheduled for the 17th.

https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf No comments. Just passing it along.

Nicely done!

I use Opti-Lube XPD all the time. Great lubricity additives in it. With this ultra-low sulfur fuel, I don't think it's a bad idea to put a little something in there.

I think that's a ENDT-673C fuel pump number. Seems to match those other numbers. I had this engine. Drove another one years ago. Was a good motor.

You know, when I was working on my old R600, I think I replaced every single air valve on the truck...and all the brake cans...and all the lines. After that, the air system worked great. And, like the man said, the education I got while doing it was probably worth more than the truck. For a while there, I was VERY familiar with the Bendix brake catalog and how all the valves worked!

Looks promising... Red Wolf Farm appears to have it booked, anyway.

Some of the R models (including the one I had) used Rh threads on both tie rod ends, but they were a different thread pitch. This allowed for very fine adjustments. But, one of them was a bear to find (the finer-thread one, I think). Not sure if any of the B models ever used that setup. I found an aftermarket cross tube that was the right length (actually found one 1/4" longer) and diameter, and used a traditional RH/LH pair of ends. After that, the ends were easy to find. Just matched up the threads and the tapers. I have been racking my brain trying to find the info where I bought that tube, but cannot find the numbers anywhere. Seems like it was actually for a Ford product of some kind. Not sure who made it. Too many years ago. Seems like I found the original cross-reference in a Euclid catalog, if memory serves. Then, kept searching until I found somebody else's number that I could actually get. May have bought it thru CarQuest. Just can't recall. Correction: I COULD find both the coarse and fine threaded ends. Meritor listed them, I believe. But, my tube was bent right through one of the threaded ends, so I could not turn it. I could NOT find a tube that used the coarse/fine ends. So, I HAD to find a tube that fit...and the only one I found had traditional RH/LH ends in it. I'm gonna find that damned number! Driving me nuts! I know: short trip!

Excellent point!