doubleclutchinweasel

Can't wait to see what this turns into...

Most of the time, we only used 7 or 8 gears...even loaded.

Here is some numerical info on the 14-speed gear ratios. hey really are not that different from the 18-speed. It's probably called a 14-speed because, if loaded really heavy, you would usually start in Lo-Lo 1st, then go to Lo-Split 1st, then pick up the "normal" sequence. On occasion, I tried using the Lo-Lo 2nd, then going to Lo-Split 1st, but the road speed was really too low to make that work well. So, the 18-speeds we had were really "14-speeds", too. Ignore the "18" on the shift plate. I didn't have a good picture of a 14-speed plate!

That is a double-overdrive trans. Shifting is pretty much the same as an 18-speed version. Even in the 18, 14 speeds were really about all you could use, anyway. The 20-speed is a single overdrive, and the sequence is different in high gear. Somewhere, I have the ratios for that box. I will try to find them. The Quadruplex is my all-time favorite Mack transmission.

Let us know how it works out. Like the man said, "I learn from the mistakes of people who took my advice."

Could not get the fuel gage to work. Not sure if that was due to the polarity or not. like I mentioned earlier, the cables were swapped at the starter. Otherwise the starter would turn the wrong way. All the lights were fine. Used the internal regulator in the alternator, and left the old regulator unhooked. It was really not much of a big deal.

Hopefully, it doesn't change any more!

Here are a couple of useful links... https://www.eaton.com/rr/CustomerSupport/Support/LiteratureCenter/index.htm?sfield=xPublicationDate&sorder=Desc&pagenum=1&litlibtarget=1162919212402 http://www.roadranger.com/rr/CustomerSupport/Support/LiteratureCenter/index.htm?sfield=dDocTitle&sorder=Asc&pagenum=1&litlibtarget=1162919212406

In fact, look at page 119. Shows in detail how things are connected.

This almost qualifies for my "pull them all off and put on one line at a time" theory. I mean, like Jo-Jo pointed out, there just aren't that many lines on one of these blasted things. Without seeing where the air leak is, it's really hard to pin it down. If there isn't a leak on the range piston O-ring, causing air to bypass it, then it has to be one of the external valves or a crossed line. I'd still bet on a crossed line first. Here's a manual for a typical 13-speed. Start down about page 20. Has descriptions of the air system and some troubleshooting instructions. Other models would be similar. I have a few more of these handy, if I knew which trans you had. TRSM0660-2007-14613.pdf

Looks like they talked him into it! The Southern Classic Truck Show HAS been re-scheduled for the 17th.

https://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf No comments. Just passing it along.

Nicely done!

I use Opti-Lube XPD all the time. Great lubricity additives in it. With this ultra-low sulfur fuel, I don't think it's a bad idea to put a little something in there.

I think that's a ENDT-673C fuel pump number. Seems to match those other numbers. I had this engine. Drove another one years ago. Was a good motor.

You know, when I was working on my old R600, I think I replaced every single air valve on the truck...and all the brake cans...and all the lines. After that, the air system worked great. And, like the man said, the education I got while doing it was probably worth more than the truck. For a while there, I was VERY familiar with the Bendix brake catalog and how all the valves worked!

Looks promising... Red Wolf Farm appears to have it booked, anyway.

Some of the R models (including the one I had) used Rh threads on both tie rod ends, but they were a different thread pitch. This allowed for very fine adjustments. But, one of them was a bear to find (the finer-thread one, I think). Not sure if any of the B models ever used that setup. I found an aftermarket cross tube that was the right length (actually found one 1/4" longer) and diameter, and used a traditional RH/LH pair of ends. After that, the ends were easy to find. Just matched up the threads and the tapers. I have been racking my brain trying to find the info where I bought that tube, but cannot find the numbers anywhere. Seems like it was actually for a Ford product of some kind. Not sure who made it. Too many years ago. Seems like I found the original cross-reference in a Euclid catalog, if memory serves. Then, kept searching until I found somebody else's number that I could actually get. May have bought it thru CarQuest. Just can't recall. Correction: I COULD find both the coarse and fine threaded ends. Meritor listed them, I believe. But, my tube was bent right through one of the threaded ends, so I could not turn it. I could NOT find a tube that used the coarse/fine ends. So, I HAD to find a tube that fit...and the only one I found had traditional RH/LH ends in it. I'm gonna find that damned number! Driving me nuts! I know: short trip!

Excellent point!

Loving it so far. Need for it to quit raining every weekend, so we can get out and enjoy it more! Typical summertime in the southeast, I guess.

IIRC, the 250 HP ENDT-673C Thermodyne did have the same head bolt pattern as the 237 HP ENDT-675 Maxidyne. I believe it was the first (only?) Thermodyne to have that pattern. I'm sure one of the guys on here will know for sure. I HAVE heard of a 673 being "converted to Maxidyne". But, as I recall, there were a LOT of things to change to do this...like crank, rods, cam, pump, etc. That picture does look like it has 675 oil filters. Maybe even the 675 oil cooler. Again, there are guys on here who are a lot more familiar with the details than I am. Maybe they can help. A lot of them can identify manifolds and such on sight. There IS a lot of commonality and interchangeability among the various 672" engines through those years. Regarding that particular piece, is it possible that somebody put the gear case off a 673C on a 675 Maxi? Or a 675 Maxi valve cover on a 673C? Just throwing out ideas for somebody to hook into. You say the "engine number" identifies it as a 673C. Which/where number? Might help somebody ID it for you. Anyway, welcome to the Pound.

Bunch of chicken-f#@&ers!

Well, this is not truck-related, but it proves that idiots are, literally, everywhere. Recently got a new Harley. Rode it the first 1,000 miles, and took it back to the dealer for the initial service. I hate having other people touch my stuff, but thought it might be nice to have their people go over it the first time. They did their thing, and I rode it some more. They used the oil of their choice in the engine. Immediately, I did not like the sound as much as with the break-in oil. Not "bad", just a little "different". Something told me that I needed to change it out. So, I ordered some of the oil I personally think is a better lube. I am NOT turning this into another "which oil is best" thread! Too many of those out here already! Anyway, my gut just kept telling me to dump the oil. Could not really explain it rationally. Just a feeling, more than anything else. So, the other evening, I got it good and warm, and pulled it into the garage. Slid the pan under it. Slipped the ratchet on the drain plug, turned loose of the ratchet...and the plug turned! Took off the ratchet, and could turn the damned plug with my fingers! It was snugged-up against the O-ring, but was not tightened. I changed the oil and filter. Then, I decided it might be a good idea to check the plugs in the primary case and transmission, too, as they had changed those as well. The primary was probably OK. The plug in the transmission took several "bites" to hit the torque setting. Wow, 2 out of 3 loose. Called my son and told him to check his, too. Same thing, just not quite as loose on the engine oil drain. Primary OK, but trans and engine NOT tight. And, to think, I paid them a lot of money to leave these oil drain plugs loose! Idiots...everywhere.

Kinda off the wall here, but... An engine with badly worn rings can sometimes be harder to start hot than cold, because of the heating/expansion of the cylinders causing more pressure leakage in the cylinders. This is particularly noticeable if one or more of the rings is broken. Have seen this before, but USUALLY is more likely in a gas burner than a diesel. But, a compression check should rule that out pretty quickly. Do one cold and another one hot, and see if there is a difference. Dying when hot and not starting back...still sounds like fuel supply to me. A silly question; if you warm it up and it dies, and won't start back, can you put the air pressure on the tank right away, and see if it starts back? If air pressure forces enough fuel into the system to start it, that might indicate something. I tend to agree with whoever said it before; it's probably something so simple that it's getting overlooked. Or a pump.

I always liked the idea of the frame mount for the stack. A little better isolation from the heat and vibration. A little more hand clearance at the door handle. Pipe doesn't have to move just because the cab moved. Structure can be as strong as you like. Yours looks really clean, and sturdy. I like it!