doubleclutchinweasel

The T-shirt guys even get in on this...

More Quad stuff, since somebody brought it up. Most of my experience was with the "720" series (overdrive 5th).

And an odd one...

Thus sayeth The Weasel...

I looked at a Valueliner one time that had the rear air-ride frame off a Ford grafter onto it. Looked like the Ford rails slid OVER the Mack rails. I seem to remember Mack using a narrower frame than some others. That one seemed to confirm that. They did a pretty good job on it. But, I passed on that truck because the roof had been replaced...and was...get this...pop-riveted onto the cab around the gutter. That didn't seem too healthy to me! Had a Cummins and an 18-speed RoadRanger. Heck of a Mutt!

Remember, they are ALL welded together somewhere! Sounds like you had a good, professional repair done. Having both bearings on the new stub should be better than the "split between the bearings" setup. The original patch...not so much!

I'm afraid to post the pics!

Some of our trucks had the shifters cut down to various lengths and had the shanks heated and bent in various ways. You really could do a lot to make them easier (or harder) to shift with the shape of the levers.

Thought they looked local!

If all you guys got together and started your own repair service, you could make a fortune!

Those mountains look familiar. Where was that taken?

Thanks to all of you for the kind words! I really appreciate the comments. Sometimes I feel like a total amateur around you guys. So, it's super flattering when I do something y'all like! Thanks again.

Got a cohort that rides Norton 850 Commando. Love those Nortons! I'll dig around and see how much I had in that lift. It wasn't much. I think the 4 trailer jacks were the most expensive part of it.

Oh, crap! You're right!

Folks on here know more than I do. But, I would assume you could change over to an Eaton knob. As long as the air pressure goes where you want it to go, I don't think it matters what the knob looks like. I mean, you just have a range shift and a splitter, right? Shucks, you might could even go old school and separate them into 2 selectors; one on the knob for the splitter and one on the shifter shank for the range!

Welcome, Bill. You've come to the right place. Someone on here will know, if anybody does. That wouldn't be "Bootstrap" Bill Turner, of "Pirates of the Caribbean" fame, would it?

Was it just me, or did everybody feel like we all kinda' adopted Vinny? He sure was hot-and-heavy into those Sidewinders!

Thank you, Sir! Again, coming from you guys, it really means something. Incidentally, that's my Little Boy in that one picture.

Thanks! That actually means a lot coming from you. You are truly one of the "pros" on here!

You know, I HAVE thought about it...

Oh, and the thing I was most pleased with was the ramp holder thingy I built under the trailer. It looks factory. I get more comments on that piece than anything else.

I still have more plans for the trailer. Once wood gets reasonable again! LOL! They used the self-drilling deck screws. Half of them are either way off-center of miss the crossmembers altogether. Plus, there was no need to rip pieces to make them fit. According to my measurements, full boards will fill it up with just the right gaps between them. So, I plan to weld up all their holes, drill holes where they should be, like you gave a $#!^ where you put them, and use carriage bolts in from the top. Already have the bevel washers to use underneath the locknuts. Will make it a lot easier the NEXT time it needs re-floored! Did this on the other (home-built) trailer I have. Works much better, and looks a lot more professional.

And this is my all-purpose trailer. Still a car trailer, but has easily removable pieces to make it a bike hauler. The chocks are attached to cleats on the frame with bolts. No need to crawl under! The center tie-down unbolts to leave a flat deck. The outer ones are welded on. Rear tiedowns are situated on the outer rails and one in the middle. It is attached to a steel plate welded in the frame. There is actually room to do 2 more setups on the rear, if needed. The removable ramp locks in between the regular ramps to give you a good, wide bike ramp. It stores in the pocket behind the right rear wheel. Never know it's there until you need it.

And here is our lift table. Used 4 jacks in the corners. Much cheaper and sturdier than most of the el-cheapo tables.

Not sure if this belongs in here, but... I guess it depends on your definition of "shop". I don't do much heavy truck work now that my Dog went down the road. But, I still do a project now and then. Here are some lifts I made for my and my son's Triumphs. None of the commercial lifts worked very well with this frame design. So, we made a cradle for each one that attaches to a regular bike jack, and bolts to the frame of the bike. Very stable and well balanced.