doubleclutchinweasel

"Perfection". Yeah, I think that's the word!

From his original description, that's what it sounds like to me. Cookin' the Puppy!

Wrong ring groove in the piston. Wrong ring end gap. Cylinders not round. Cylinder ridge. Cylinders warping at temperature (improper cooling). Detonation. This is a biggie. Can damage LOTS of stuff. (refer back to original melted pistons) (too lean, too much timing, too much compression, too low octane fuel, etc.) Improper piston/cylinder fit. Rings installed upside down. Woods sprites. Gremlins.

Great job, Mate!

Common sense? What's that?! LOL! Common sense is so rare these days it should be considered a super power. "Hello! I'm Sensible Man!" What you did with the trailer is very similar to one of our methods for raising and lowering machine tools..."rocking" or "levering" them up. I used to do stupid things under vehicles. Not any more. Now I want jack stands, cross-ties, timbers, or whatever I can find. That "what if" factor is super important to consider. You never work more safely than when you know that what you are doing can kill you. Kudos on your ingenuity and caution on that job.

I would recommend good jack stands even with high-dollar jacks! But, that's just me!

Little bottle jacks from Tractor Supply or Northern Tool don't cost much (Torin "Big Red"). 6 ton is about $35. 10 ton about $50. I have several of them in various sizes. Work fine. Cheap enough to throw away when they quit.

This one sure gets the Weasel's Seal of Approval!

Nice!

I doubt the ones they are talking about get programmed! LOL!

Lovin’ it! Great work.

I guess one important thing to determine on this one is IF it has the 24V system. If it does, the S/P switch would be suspect. If it doesn't I would look at the cables.

The old R600 I drove back then had the 24V start. Pushbutton to engage the S/P switch was on the dash. Seems like the key was on the left side and the pushbutton was on the right side of the steering column. The one I had more recently was all 12V. So, it did not have the S/P switch or the pushbutton.

I have heard of 15W-40 giving different oil pressure than SAE30. I know folks who swear by both!

Didn't all the 24V starting system trucks use the manual push button to activate the series starting circuit? Seems like all the ones I saw did. Turn on the key then push the button. All the 12V starting systems I ever saw just started with the key. Maybe that's a way to tell if it has a 12V or 24V starting system. If it IS a 24V start, then that unit would definitely be a good place to start.

Bad batteries on one side? Bad crossover cables?

That cab is nothing less than gorgeous.

Need updates! What's going on now?

Matt, I'm due for some more updates. I need a "fix"!

If it's like the 13, you can. But, it may not be exactly the same ratio. Might have to go in a little sooner or a little later. Understand about the not wanting to risk it thing, though!

Saw it at lunchtime today...

Yeah, that sounds like something i would have said before!

To be honest, I rarely used all the splits in a Quad...even when loaded. Used no more than 6 w/empty trailer. Could get by with 7-8 with most loads. Even when heavy and needing to split the main, it was common to skip a gear in the compound. By the time you got into that hole, it was time to go to the next one anyway. So, just skip part of a split and keep going. I only recall a time or two that I actually used all 13-14 progressive shifts in that thing. Bobtailing in my R600 w/15-speed, I normally only used 4 or 5 gears. We had one driver who did just what you said, though. He really wanted everybody to know how good he was with 2 sticks. It really WAS impressive...until he missed a shift and had to stop and start over! Then it was REALLY impressive! LOL!

I love it when there are multiple answers, and they are all potentially right! LOL! Like the man said, the INTENTION is that that lo-lo switch is ONLY used in lo gear (or reverse) and lo range. Then, it is SUPPOSED to be disengaged...and you are back in lo gear, lo range. Basically, it is an 8-speed, plus a lo, plus a lo-lo...kinda like it says on the shift plate onyx posted. Imagine that! BUT, like jojo said, there are other possibilities. If you know what the effective "steps" are, you can use them. It's similar to the old 15-speed RoadRanger I had. You were SUPPOSED to use the deep reduction to go from 1st through 5th, then disengage the deep reduction and go back to 4th, at which point you would resume your regular "10 speed" pattern. It gave 12 forward speeds. BUT, you COULD disengage the deep reduction in an earlier gear and downshift 1 step in the main box. Worked out about the same. Their intention was to gather as much road speed as possible before making that air shift. I have done something similar in a 13-speed RoadRanger, using the "nothing" and "double nothing" gears in hi range while downshifting...to keep from going back into lo range. But, using "lo" gear in hi range resulted in uneven steps between gears. IIRC, I had to lug hi 1st (5th gear) down a little lower before going into lo gear on the main. And, if I still had to go back to lo range, I had to short shift that one (not drag it down as far). Used some of the "unused" combos on the Mack Quadruplex, as well. Like Direct and Lo-Split 5th. They are there, they are just essentially duplicates of other gears. Like I said, you got a lot of different answers, and they are all potentially right! Love it!

I was just watching the 1977 movie “Citizen’s Band”. In addition to a pretty cool cast, I just noticed that one of the guys had a really cool handle. Roberts Blossom played Paul Lemat’s dad, under the handle of “Papa Thermodyne”. Gotta love that handle!