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doubleclutchinweasel

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by doubleclutchinweasel

  1. Pretty sure Accuride, among others, still make 3-piece (no more 2-piece) 20" tube-type Dayton-style rims. Tubeless 22.5" one-piece rims are far better, easier to find, and easier to find tires for. They fit the 20" spiders. "Small Spider". I think the same goes for 22" tube-type and 24.5" tubeless. "Large Spider".
  2. Agree. The gearing will hurt the initial selling price. Most folks would need to re-gear it. That can cost some bucks.
  3. Oh, man. I hate to hear that! All I can do is wish you luck!
  4. Looking at your pics, I can't tell if your floor comes apart or not. If not, that makes it more of a pain. My R600 had the "all hose" option, so it had rubber hoses with braided covers everywhere. When I changed the foot valve, I took that opportunity to swap everything over to DOT tubing and compression fittings. Looked a whole lot cleaner after I did that.
  5. Get to know Bendix! It might be an E2 or E3, if it's a single circuit. I THINK the difference is that the E2 is linear, and the E3 has a light initial pedal that then requires more pressure to go over a certain PSI. But, I may be mis-remembering. Actually, that is correct. See the "Treadle Valves" attachment. Usually, part of the floor comes out to allow access. But yes...it is typically a PITA. E-2.pdfE-3.pdfTreadle Valves.pdf
  6. I wondered when/who was going to do that!!!
  7. They say it’s a small world. that power line was the last clearing job I got to work with my dad before he died. Have lots of memories about that one.
  8. Looks like this truck (from the Mahan collection) has been the subject of a conversation here before. Look about half-way down, where B66 is helping with the serial number.
  9. Weaubleau! You're just about 35-40 miles south of Warsaw. Spent one hot-ass summer in Warsaw in '79, clearing a power line RoW from the site of the Truman Dam to a substation in Clinton. They were still calling it the "Kaysinger" dam at the time, because of the location.
  10. Mine was changed when I got it. Like everybody said, it had a 1-wire alternator with integral regulator. Battery cables swapped to keep the starter running the right direction. The only issue was the amp meter. It was a single stud type and was grounded through the body to the dash. I swapped in a 2-stud model so I could reverse the polarity. As far as I know, that was it. All the lights worked. The fuel gauge didn't work, but i had a hardwood dowel "dipstick" under the seat! I agree with Paul and Larry...just reverse the polarity on the truck and be done with it. Not that difficult.
  11. I thought that was it. 1967 DM865SX
  12. I am pretty sure that tractor (or one like it) is in my "Mack: Driven for a Century" book. Think it says "Big Snort", or something like that, on the hood. Will look that up tonight.
  13. There are enough guys on here to help you do pretty much ANYTHING. I doubt there is too much that SOMEBODY here has not already done.
  14. https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/truck-trailer-attachment/for-sale/list?catid=35037&manu=mack&mdltxt=t2090 https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/truck-trailer-attachment/for-sale/list?catid=35037&manu=mack&mdltxt=t2100 None local, but somewhere to start.
  15. You're correct, 'Train. I had not considered LED bulbs. I should have said INCANDESCENT bulbs do not care about polarity.
  16. Light bulbs typically do not care which way the current is flowing. Not sure the electric brakes would either. Somebody on here probably has more experience with that than I do, though. My R was converted to negative ground when I got it. Basically went to an alternator, and swapped a couple of cables. All the lights worked fine. I had to change the ammeter to 2 "two post" model so I could reverse the polarity on it. I'm sure some honest-to-goodness experts will chime in here and help you out...especially if you add pictures!!! We love pictures!!!
  17. We do some 3D printing here (resin). But, we do not have the scanning capability. Should be companies out there that do both. A quick Google search should show some in your area. For a usable emblem, I would suggest the metal media (SLM, DMLS), not the resin (plastic). The metal can be polished or maybe chromed. The printed item can be made of varying densities, from "skeleton" to "solid". The metal parts lend themselves well to varying densities, with skeletonized areas where possible and solid areas where needed.
  18. Nice thing about the old Macks; you could fix a lot of things using stuff from the local hardware store.
  19. God, that sound takes me back! Thanks for posting that.
  20. That looks like one of the galvanized cabs, so you should be fortunate there. There seem to be more good engines and parts out there than there are good cabs any more! Best of luck to you.
  21. Joey Mack is a great source of information on those "later" models. There were another one or two who were good also, but I can;t recall the names right now.
  22. There are a couple of Mack techs on here that continually blow me away with their knowledge on these things. They should be of great help to you.
  23. Pictures. We love pictures!
  24. No, the "early" box would not have been available. Not even sure about the "late" box! Just trying to figure out if a truck of that vintage could have had the OD set in the compound. I never saw one that did. But, like I said, I learn something on here every day.
  25. http://www.macktruckrestorations.com/Page2/page2.html Matt Pfahl's site....check it out!
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