doubleclutchinweasel

To quote my Dad, "Stay ahead of the truck." In other words, have it in the right gear for the next situation BEFORE you get there. And, like everybody said, don't leave both sticks in neutral. You'll get the hang of it. And remember, there is no law that says you have to split every gear every time! I rarely had to use them all. Only when I was really heavy did I need to split every gear. To be honest, you sometimes did it just to show off around the shop! Really looked impressive when you missed one! LOL!

Got ya. Sorry!

Is there a number stamped on the accessory drive case on the engine?

Could be a plate on either the engine or the fuel pump itself that lists HP. I'll try to find an example.

Like he said, the steps are BIG on a those boxes. Remember, the steps are a certain percentage drop, not a fixed RPM drop. So, if you shift at lower RPMs, the steps appear smaller (same percentage, smaller RPM difference. Those engines pull hard at lower RPMs also. I used to keep the revs fairly low through 4th. Then wind 4th pretty high, drop into neutral, take a nap, then drop it into 5th! Downshift only when the RPMs pull down to about 12-1300. Don't try to downshift at 17-1800 like we did with the compound stick on the Quadruplex boxes. Big steps! Big, wide steps! If the revs are, say 2/3 of what they were before an upshift, the equivalent downshift would be 3/2 the revs. So, if the revs drop from 2100 to 1400 on an upshift, then you have to pull down to 1400 before downshifting and rev it all the way to 2100 to get it to match up on the downshift. You'll get the hang of it. I am very curious about the RPM/MPH that 67' asked about. That OD trans should do more than that unless something (tach, speedo) is off calibration, or the rear gears are insanely low.

There you go!

Yep. Need the number. Could be 673. Could be 711. Was there a 707 too? Brain just stroked off there for a minute...

Just like finding a lost cow: all at once!

Not to offend, but grinding while downshifting a non-synchronized transmission usually IS user error. MUST match RPM...regardless of whether you use the clutch or just "float" it. Will slide in easily then. Of course, there COULD be other issues. But this seems to be the most common problem. Oh, and welcome to The Pound.

Might be able to create your own paper and have it converted to a sticker... This is from Windows Word...

If you've been "on your way to the dump" with the same load for more than 2 weeks...

If you've ever written a check for a car wash...

Injectors?

"Good" don't even come close, Matt!

I curious about the resistors. Their exact job is to reduce voltage.

Some (all?) of those have a small oil feed tube in the front of the air compressor crank that has a tendency to fall out when the pump is removed. If this one has the tube, be sure it is in place at installation, or you may not get lubrication to the compressor.

Polarizing was important. I think there are instructions out there.

Got one too. Still some of those around.

You know, Barry, lots of the better kits I remember did have options in the box. Not that difficult to set up a frame for single or dual axles, or even to leave the frame long to allow end user customization. Multiple driveshafts (or cut-to-length pieces), extra crossmembers...not a big deal. Lots of the kits I built had both spoke and disc wheels in the kits. Again, builder's choice. This thing looks like it would be geared more toward the serious builder/collector than the casual builder. So, I personally think the quality and flexibility of the kit might be more important than the selling price. But, that's just one Weasel's opinion.

The girl is pretty, but she can't cook. Or, is it she can cook, but ain't pretty. One way or the other...

I built several of the R685 kits over the years. On the later ones, the quality had deteriorated somewhat and the parting lines had grown substantially. I always wished they had done a kit of the older R models with the steel dash. Some of AITM's had the old dash. Never enough time or options!

Yep. Happy Birthday, 'Duck!

There were 124 B13's made. Odd number should have been a diesel. Can't find any information on what engines came in those. Also 131 B23's made. Again, odd numbers should be diesel powered. Same problem. Can't find a lot of info on those either. Considering the clutch lever mentioned, this could easily have been a truck engine, later converted to power a generator or a sawmill. Speaking of sawmills, I had a cousin who ran his sawmill off a 50's model END-673 out of a wrecked B model. Still had the 9-speed overdrive Duplex behind it. Even still used the parking brake on the output of the trans. Plenty of power and plenty of speed options! Overkill, you think?

Man! How long I wanted to hear that! I ended up buying a bunch of First Gear Diecast 1/25 scale B-models because no kit was available. I don't build many models anymore (no time, old hands, old eyes, etc.). But I would probably grab a couple (or more) for the "just in case" situation.

If releasing the "parking brake" on your truck involves moving a rock...