doubleclutchinweasel

Again...check out the link to my '70. I drive it several times a week. And, a lot of work has gone into the mechanical side of it. Mainly, it needs the cosmetic work done to it to make it pretty. Engine and trans are great. Driveline is great. Drives great. Cab is better than most steel dash trucks. It's far from a basket case.

Maybe my '70 model would work for you?

Welcome! http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/36819-1970-r600-for-sale/

My oil clarifier has always behaved well. Held oil well. Oil pressure builds quickly. No issues. After it sat for a couple of weeks, I experienced something odd. The oil drained out of it, raising the oil level in the pan, & taking a few extra seconds to build pressure. Went on like this for a couple of days. Then it dawned on me...if the filter drained, the canister would be full of air. And, with all the fittings on the bottom, there would be no way for the air to get out. And, when oil pressure built up, the air trapped in the top of the canister would become pressurized. When you shut it down, this pressurized air would push the oil out through the outfeed hose until the pressure dropped. So, I started it up, & bled the vent plug, like you do after an oil change. Problem solved. Filter now holds oil, oil level in pan is good, & the pressure builds quicker again. Been watching it for a few days now, & it's holding fine. So, if it ever drains down again, I know how to get it back to normal.

The new front spring insulators are in now, too,

Well... I went out this morning, in the awesome, cool Carolina air, and replaced the front spring insulators on the old R611. First, I removed the cross-tube, and removed the lower spring caps. Then I jacked up the front of the frame to take the load off the springs. Now, since lifting the front of the truck will allow the springs to come out of thier seats, but will also allow them to "curl" on you, I added a small jack toward the rear of each spring. This allows you to keep a little pressure on the springs, holding the rear down, and preventing the "curling". If they curl too much, you can't get the new insulators into the pockets very well. Then, I lubed up the new insulators with some dish detergent, and slid them in. It is important to note that AT NO TIME should you put your fingers/hands in the spring hanger. If the jacks let go, you would be minus some rather important apendages. Then I let the jacks down evenly, so the insulators eased into the pockets in the upper spring hanger. Next, the lower caps went on. And, finally, the cross tube went back in, and all with new hardware...a Weasel trademark! Not sure why the image, below is repeated! Sorry!

In fact, I might be coaxed into driving it to Georgia for you!

I still think you need it!

...and yet more... Actually, I'm starting to think I may have under-valued this thing! Just kidding!

...and, some more...

Some recent pictures. Trying to show the WORST aspects of the truck.

What leak? I fixed my leak. Had a bad TP3 valve. Replaced it. Leak gone. And, this one does not have Maxi-Brakes on it. It has current-production spring brakes on it.

Come on! Somebody make an offer, at least!

If I wasn't trying to sell my R already, I'd be all over that thing. Where were you when I was looking? Story of my life...

That's been superseded. It's now 634-5789...P7!

Yep! We carried a broom handle & spare axles in our trucks. The axles, & the occasional U-joint, were the only things I ever personally saw break out back. I never once saw a differential break in one of our Macks.

And, from a manufacturing standpoint, not having the flange on the axle shaft is a huge time/cost savings.

Looking at it right now. The problem is that Mack had more SPRING ratings than they had AXLE ratings. Like I said, the springs are light. In fact, the build sheet only shows 32K on the rears, as well as on the trailer, as that was the legal max on tandems in 1970. Somewhere I had located the actual axle ratings, which were higher than the springs. I think I may have found it by looking at bearings. It is actually the bearings which limit the load you can put on an axle, anyway. I just can't freakin' find that blasted sheet. I think I'm finished for the night!

Oh, and it's got a 92 carrier on the front & a 93 carrier on the rear, if that helps...

I can't find the document I had which gave the axle ratings for the old axle numbers. Sorry. Pretty sure I looked mine up somewhere (possibly a Euclid chart?), and it said 44s. Could be wrong, though, since I can't find the blasted thing. My springs are light. Probably 34s or 38s. So, they COULD be 38s. I just plain can't remember. They are SWDL-751s, if anybody has the numbers. Should be same rating as more common SWD-75. And, yes, these are 5-spoke wheels. That might also point to 38s...

Suppose the double-spline axle setup uses a different number of bolts than the flanged axle? My 8-bolt 44s are the flanged axle, not the double-spline version.

I've got 44s with 8! Maybe there's no pattern here!

They're double-spline axles. Pretty sure they made 44K rears with both welded axle and double-splined axles. Those having 6 bolts, instead of 8, would suggest lighter than 44K...I do believe.

Lots of possibilities with 2-stick transmissions. Some are better. Some are easier. Several ways to drive them effectively without a lot of "split-shifting", too. I could split-shift the Quadruplex fairly successfully back in the day. But, it was sometimes okay to simply do your upshift on whichever box needed it first, then do the corresponding downshift on the other one. One guy saw me do that once and told me he had never seen anyone "triple-clutch" a truck before! I thought that was as good a description as any!

'Bout all I can tell you about that hub is that it appears to use a double-splined axle shaft!