doubleclutchinweasel

I can't find the document I had which gave the axle ratings for the old axle numbers. Sorry. Pretty sure I looked mine up somewhere (possibly a Euclid chart?), and it said 44s. Could be wrong, though, since I can't find the blasted thing. My springs are light. Probably 34s or 38s. So, they COULD be 38s. I just plain can't remember. They are SWDL-751s, if anybody has the numbers. Should be same rating as more common SWD-75. And, yes, these are 5-spoke wheels. That might also point to 38s...

Suppose the double-spline axle setup uses a different number of bolts than the flanged axle? My 8-bolt 44s are the flanged axle, not the double-spline version.

I've got 44s with 8! Maybe there's no pattern here!

They're double-spline axles. Pretty sure they made 44K rears with both welded axle and double-splined axles. Those having 6 bolts, instead of 8, would suggest lighter than 44K...I do believe.

Lots of possibilities with 2-stick transmissions. Some are better. Some are easier. Several ways to drive them effectively without a lot of "split-shifting", too. I could split-shift the Quadruplex fairly successfully back in the day. But, it was sometimes okay to simply do your upshift on whichever box needed it first, then do the corresponding downshift on the other one. One guy saw me do that once and told me he had never seen anyone "triple-clutch" a truck before! I thought that was as good a description as any!

'Bout all I can tell you about that hub is that it appears to use a double-splined axle shaft!

Hey!

check out my wiki post about R cab parts breakdown...

70QS33 - RH Inner Weatherstrip (along window) 70QS34 - LH Inner Weatherstrip (along window) 35RU223 - RH Outer Weatherstrip (along window) 35RU224 - LH Outer Weatherstrip (along window) 44SX30 - Generic Pieces for Window Tracks (2 sections per door, I believe) Any of these look good to anybody?

Well, at least it's an easy fix!

TP-3 Tractor Protection valve developed a leak. Applying brakes caused air to bypass the valve & come back up the emergency line to the trailer supply valve, & out its exhaust. So, there's another new part for a potential buyer!!!

Appears to have the inverted camelback springs, like my R600. Still got mine for sale, too!

Sorry. I thought yours was older. But, yes...the principal is the same.

Here is a Bendix TP-3 valve cutaway. It shows how the valve spool is designed. Air on the "top" causes the service side (bottom) to open. If there is no air on the top side, the spring causes the service side to be closed off automatically.

Vlad, There is a "double-check" valve on the treadle valve, with the air-operated brake light switch in it (see picture). Whenever air is delivered, either by the tradle valve or the trolley valve, this switch is made. I had to replace mine last year, because air was leakiing out of the switch portion when the brakes were applied. And, yes...that is a mirror under the treadle valve. I was reading the numbers off the treadle valve! The double-check valve allows air to be ported to the line which feeds the tractor protection valve (and ultimately the trailer service line) whenever EITHER the treadle valve OR trolley valve is actuated, and closes off the other valve so the air does not escape. This double-check valve is why air goes to the trailer brakes whenever either valve is activated, but the trolley valve does not apply the tractor brakes. So, air will definitely be delivered to the supply side of the tractor protection (TP) valve whenever the trolley valve is actuated. But, if the trailer supply valve (the red one) is not pushed in, the TP valve will be closed, and the air cannot go out the delivery side. Whenever the red valve is pushed in, air is sent to the "emergency" side of the TP valve, and out to charge the trailer air system. This air pressure also causes the TP valve spool to shift, opening the "service" side porting as well. This allows the air flow from either the treadle or trolley valve through the TP valve, and out to the trailer service line. If the red valve is pulled out, or if it pops out on its own, due to a drop in air pressure, the TP valve automatically closes off the service brake side as well, so applying brakes does not cause air to go to the trailer brakes. This keeps you from losing your service brake air if you...for example...lost your trailer! Incidentally, I just replaced the TP-3 valve on my R611 this evening (see other picture)! Does that make it clear as mud?!

Yep. Trolley valve will operate brake light switch. Air just shouldn't go out to trailer unless red valve is in.Dad taught me to tap the trolley valve from time to time, just to be sure it was not applied. Still do it to this day!

Come on, guys! If you don't like my number, feel free to suggest one of your own! Any REASONABLE offers will be entertained. Any insulting offers will be entertaining.

Incidentally, I have found a couple of door shells which are described as "no rust showing" for a super good price (less than $100 each). I will give the contact information to whoever buys the truck. If it doesn't sell, I'll need them!

Here's some... http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/tutorials/article/100-mack-truck-model-production/

Mack Truck Model Production Model List... Mack Model Production 1.rtf Mack Model Production.pdf Mack Model Production 1.rtf Mack Model Production.pdf Mack Model Production 1.rtf Mack Model Production.pdf Author doubleclutchinweasel Category Antique & Classic Mack Info Submitted 08/31/2014 09:03 AM Updated 08/31/2014 11:10 AM

Check your messages...

Actually, no. Genuine Interest!

...got a couple of nibbles locally...

Wow is right.