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doubleclutchinweasel

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Everything posted by doubleclutchinweasel

  1. doubleclutchinweasel
    I'm still trying to figure out an extra gear on a 15-speed. Don't know where that would be. I'm like everyone else, familiar with "nothing" & "double-nothing" on a 13-speed. But my 15-speed doesn't have any unused gears...
  2. doubleclutchinweasel
    I just noticed the V8 emblem on the hood! What is the model number? R615?
  3. doubleclutchinweasel
    Sure thing, 'Dog. That valve was the first piece I changed on mine when I got it home. It was leaking. Could turn it and make it better or worse. I got quite an education in Mack air brakes. Almost every piece of mine has been changed. Even upgraded from DD3 parking brakes to spring brakes. Look up my content. There are a couple of posts about the brake upgrade. And, there's one entitled "sometimes I wonder" that shows everything I had done up to that time. Let me know if I can help with the air brake circuitry.
  4. doubleclutchinweasel
    Here is a picture of my parking brake valve, taken as I was changing it out. If you look closely, you can see part of the ID number stamped into the side. The most common "yellow button" valves were the PP1 and PP2. The PP2 has the anti-compounding feature, which keeps you from adding brake force to the parking brake if you press the pedal when the spring brakes are applied. It does this simply by porting some air to the "release" side of the parking brake at the same time the service brake is applied. Pretty simple, and pretty clever. I am also attaching a couple of .pdf files for these 2 common valves. Maybe you can find your number listed! PP-1.pdf PP-2.pdf
  5. doubleclutchinweasel
    Looked into changing the system over to the spin-on filters of the 675. Not just the filter circuit. The oil cooler, the water pump housing, the radiator hose, thermostat housing, and other assorted small parts are all different. So, I changed oil and filter with the original setup this morning. Used a Carquest 85233 filter. Had 2 gaskets from Carquest. One was a 90114, which is just an O-ring. The other, a 90414, is best described as a slightly "elongated" O-ring. Either would probably work. I used the 90414, and positioned it in the housing so the outer rounded portion fit down into the groove in the housing, and the inner rounded portion was "up". This made the gasket look like it was "crowned" upward toward the inside, which matched up nicely with the shape on the bottom of the cap. Hard to explain! Filled the crankcase (5 gallons). Filled the filter (3 gallons). Started it up, cracked the filter vent, listened to the air escape. When oil started coming out, tightened it down. Used 2 new copper washers on the plugs (7/8" ID on the oil pan & 1" ID on the filter vent plug). Cleaned a LOT of sludge out of the filter canister. Nasty! We'll see...
  6. doubleclutchinweasel
    That's how I'm approaching mine...keep it running first, & make it pretty later. Preservation first: restoration second.
  7. doubleclutchinweasel
    There are a few different valves. If you look at the valve, there usually is a tag on it with a number. That number is a big help! My parking brake valve incorporated an anti-compounding valve. Very handy. You can download the Bendix handbook, which has lots of good stuff in it. I redid virtually my whole system. So, let me know if I can help.
  8. doubleclutchinweasel
    I have Bendix info somewhere that tells which are interchangeable. 2 different drive attachment methods, I think. Not sure which is the oddball. 550? Actually, after looking, I think I was thinking about the 500 vs 501 difference...which, as mentioned already, was related to the power steering connection. So, never mind!
  9. doubleclutchinweasel
    Like I said, it shouldn't be that complicated to do a "remote" filter setup. Here is my concept of a dual-filter, full-flow system. The flow rates and other specifications of these filters match the standard filters for a 237. But, they have a built-in relief valve to allow oil to bypass when the filters are maxed-out, instead of having the relief valve in the block. This can be mounted anywhere it is convenient, and connected via hoses. The ports in each end are 1" pipe threads, just like the fittings that screw into my canister. Two of these pictures are just external views. The other two are cutaways showing the supply and delivery porting. If you really wanted to get cute, a relief piston could be integrated into the block, allowing the bypass oil to go to a separate bypass filter. I guess I'm really surprised I can't find something equivalent to this online. Seems pretty "universal" to me...
  10. doubleclutchinweasel
    TRQ-7220 Quadruplex Shift Sequence Based on the gearbox ratios I got off another Wiki article, here are all the effective ratios for a TRQ-7220 Quadruplex. You can see where the ratios overlap, and would be skipped. You can also see why some of the LO-LO ratios would not be useful in a progressive sequence. Those could have been used, however, for "road speed control" for specific applications. I have done this with lots of the other old transmissions as well, if anybody is interested. Author doubleclutchinweasel Category Antique & Classic Mack Info Submitted 08/13/2014 11:59 AM
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  11. doubleclutchinweasel
    Based on the gearbox ratios I got off another Wiki article, here are all the effective ratios for a TRQ-7220 Quadruplex. You can see where the ratios overlap, and would be skipped. You can also see why some of the LO-LO ratios would not be useful in a progressive sequence. Those could have been used, however, for "road speed control" for specific applications. I have done this with lots of the other old transmissions as well, if anybody is interested. Mack Transmissions.xls
  12. doubleclutchinweasel
    Mine was a '72 printing...
  13. doubleclutchinweasel
    That's funny! I was just looking at those same pics in my book last night! Was just about to comment on the direction of oil flow. Great minds, huh? I found a note in my manual which indicated that, at one time, the oil flowed through the filter first, then through the cooler. But, as shown in your pictures, the "current production", as they called it, went through the cooler first, and then through the filter. So, the images I posted are correct for my particular model. And, agin, the filter is holding oil today. So, the check valves work...sometimes. You know, I remember my dad pulling the can out of an old R when I was just a young'un, and that can was not full, either. And, I know he had not drained it. I guess check valve issues were common on those cans...even back then.
  14. doubleclutchinweasel
    I grew up on a 5 + 4 Mack Quadruplex. Freightrain is correct about one thing; save the "split-shifting" with 2 hands till you get used to it! But, you don't necessarily shift the MAIN first. UPSHIFT whichever box you need to shift first, then DOWNSHIFT the other. If you try to downshift the main first, for example, you probably won't have enough RPM to do so. And, if you can, there's really no need to split-shift. I can give you a couple of different patterns to use. There is also a slight difference between an 18-speed and a 20-speed. Since the Hi-Split and 5th geear are both overdrive in the 18, there are a couple of gear combinations which are duplicates, and should be skipped. On the 20, there are no duplicates. First of all, the LO-LO on the compound is rarely used. In fact, the only time I ever used it, other than for backing, was to get moving in a steep place, and then only with one or two gears. First Sequence (18-speed box) (this will work for most conditions, and has no split shifting): LO-SPLIT 1st LO-SPLIT 2nd LO-SPLIT 3rd LO-SPLIT 4th DIRECT 4th (this is your 1:1 gear) HI-SPLIT 4th (overdrive) HI-SPLIT 5th (double overdrive) Second Sequence (18-speed box) (for heavy loads): LO-SPLIT 1st DIRECT 1st HI-SPLIT 1st LO-SPLIT 2nd DIRECT 2nd HI-SPLIT 2nd LO-SPLIT 3rd DIRECT 3rd HI-SPLIT 3rd LO-SPLIT 4th DIRECT 4th HI-SPLIT 4th HI-SPLIT 5th If you need more on the bottom end, start out in LO-LO 1st, go to LO-LO 2nd, then to LO-SPLIT 1st. On the 20-speed, just split 5th the same as 1st-4th. The heavy-duty models had the 4-speed compound on the left, and the 5-speed main on the right. Some of the lighter ones had tat reversed.
  15. doubleclutchinweasel
    Cab Mount (Upper) - 20QL250 (4 pcs) (alternate - BWP-NSI MA9R, PAI FMT-4900) Cab Mount (Lower) - 20QL1144 (4 pcs) (alternate - BWP-NSI MA9O, PAI FMT-4740) Radiator Mounts - 20QL231P9 (2 pcs) (alternate - BWP-NSI MA9AE, PAI FMT-4750 (possible slight difference in length))
  16. doubleclutchinweasel
    R-Model Cab Mounts Cab Mount (Upper) - 20QL250 (4 pcs) (alternate - BWP-NSI MA9R, PAI FMT-4900) Cab Mount (Lower) - 20QL1144 (4 pcs) (alternate - BWP-NSI MA9O, PAI FMT-4740) Radiator Mounts - 20QL231P9 (2 pcs) (alternate - BWP-NSI MA9AE, PAI FMT-4750 (possible slight difference in length)) Author doubleclutchinweasel Category Antique & Classic Mack Info Submitted 08/13/2014 08:40 AM
  17. doubleclutchinweasel
    And now the stupid thing is holding its oil level just fine...
  18. doubleclutchinweasel
    Most car engines bypass the filter in the engine block, at the filter mounting point. Virtually every filter system has a bypass. It can even be in the filter, I suppose. Without it, ALL the oil has to go through the filter...clean or dirty. And that's all but impossible. It would take a LOT of filters to flow all the oil the pump moves. Yours probably has a bypass feature in either the housing or the filters themselves. Hard to imagine letting a clogged filter starve the engine for oil. But, I could be wrong (again)! Most systems, like the car engine, allow the unfiltered bypass oil to go right past the filter & into the engine! The PAI pictures, I believe, show a bypass piston in the filter head. This oil could go to either the engine or the pan. Can't really tell. On my monstrosity, the bypassed oil goes through the bypass part of the filter & back to the pan. A great setup...when it's working!
  19. doubleclutchinweasel
    Wonder if I could come off the supply hose with a "Y", and go through 2 Fleetguard (for example) heads, and "Y" back together into the delivery hose???
  20. doubleclutchinweasel
    Yeah. That would make sense. If the oil comes out the unknown line, then passes through the cooler, it would then come out of the cooler and into the filter. Filtered oil would go out the big line, and bypass-filtered oil would go out the small line to the pan. What really drives me crazy is that none of this mess is necessary. If you look at the 3 lines coming out the bottom of the filter, they are the only things set in stone. If the supply line could connect to, let's say, a commercial dual-filter head, with an integrated bypass valve, the filtered oil could come out to the big line and the bypassed oil out to the smaller line...or even to a bypass filter. On your setup, it appears that the bypass valve is integrated into the pressure regulating valve. Bypass oil is likely dumped right back into the pan. Atually, the filters are probably a "bypass" type filter, with a built-in bypass feature. On mine, the bypass valve is integrated into the filter unit. On the pictures of the Maxi units I posted, I believe the bypass valve is integrated into the head. Seems like a great opportunity for a "generic" conversion system. Instead of changing all the coolers and manifolds, just need a unit that connects to the existing hoses. I could probably design it, but might need some help getting it manufactured. Am going to look into the Mack bypass valve parts a little more...
  21. doubleclutchinweasel
    Look at this Mack drawing, noting the external check valve on the filter. Then look at my "OIL FILTER 1" picture, above. This is why I thought the in and out lines were where I marked them. Either I have them right, or the filter housing is installed backwards? Or something else...
  22. doubleclutchinweasel
    From the pictures I'm seeing, the oil cooler on my Thermo is even a different part than the one on a Maxi. This may be more trouble than it's worth. Will have to wait and see if anybody comes up with any info.
  23. doubleclutchinweasel
    From the looks of the PAI drawings, the 2 lines on top of my relief block MIGHT go to the top of the filter adapter? If so, they use a different manifold arrangement (3 bolts instead of 4). I wonder if the oil cooler on this 673C is the same as on the 675? If this is a different animal, too, it may get complicated. And, yes; my in and out MAY be reversed. I need to review my book tonight to see how the oil flows. Got a response from Gene at State Line. He gave me some pretty generic information, but nothing specific. I sent him some of these pictures, and asked him if they pointed him at anything specific. But, he also gave me a VIN number for a truck to use as a parts list. That might help. My biggest problem is that I simply don't have any sources around here that I know of with salvage tricks sitting around to pick parts off of. So, I have to count on others' experiences to point me at the correct parts, and THEN try to source them...either new or used. It ain't easy livin' in BFE.
  24. doubleclutchinweasel
    And, here is a different pressure regulator block from the PAI website. I am assuming this is the type one would use. Also a picture of their oil filter adapter. Can't tell what would happen with that "unknown" line, above. From their pictures, it almost looks like there is one regulator piston in the block and another in the filter adapter unit.
  25. doubleclutchinweasel
    Here are a couple of shots with arrows to the various lines. Maybe this will jog some memories as to what goes where, and why...

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