doubleclutchinweasel

The volt meter on my '70 R600 had only 1 terminal, & was grounded through the case. Moving the wire would cause a dead short. I just got a universal volt meter with 2 terminals, & wired it to the correct one.

I still like the C version of the Thermodyne!

First thing I had to fix on my R was a LF spring with 2 broken leaves. Replaced 3. Was during that time I was fighting a pinched nerve in my neck. S.O.B.s are heavy! I'll give you that!

Well... That makes just a whole lot of sense. Glad you found it. Still curious that it was intermittent...

Auto..... Auto...... Auto-what-ic???

Here are a couple of shots of the model and serial numbers on the gear case of an older 6-cylinder. See if you can get these numbers, as they will tell you more than anything else. This one says "T673C..." which makes it an ENDT-673-C.

Measured some on the water pump today. Looks like about 6" from housing to fan, & about 1" from fan back to end of shaft. So, that's about 5" effective, which makes it a "short shaft" unit, I believe. A "long shaft" would be about 5-1/2" long. Most literature suggests a 316GC184 pump. Looks like that may be correct.

I think mine may have been opened up also, now that you mention it. The heads almost touch! Takes an open end or a crows foot to tighten them...

Heli-Coils? Maybe?

We will talk! Many thanks!

New ones are $70-90 now. Would like to just have a decent used one for now.

Anybody got a good battery box cover I can put on my R600? I don't use the RH box, but would sure like to cover up the box simply for aesthetics! Doesn't matter if the latch is good or not. I will fab something. Just need a decent top.

That's the route I plotted, too. Needs every bit of 97-98". Must be the taller hood of the R model!

Well, I measured the current tach cable sheath. I know it's not "virgin", since the end has been spliced. It's about 97-98" long. So, either the build sheet doesn't actually say 88, or I misunderstood it! Anyway, I don't see how the cable could possibly reach if it was 88" long. So, maybe I need a 97-100" cable. I think there is a 54MT314DP100 listed. 100" long, I believe. Now, if I can just find a suitable tach, maybe I can tell how fast the old-timer is spinning!

What I like about a rat rod is that all the effort goes into functionality, not into appearance. I once read that, "Anyone can restore one; it takes a real man to cut one up." That being said, I can't see cutting up a classic Mack. There just aren't enough of them left.

Sounds like those may be more "universal" than the 313s. By the way, does anybody have a functional "old" tach? I think it may be a 17MT379. It's the old one with the "counterweight" on the bottom end of the needle. Mine has a broken needle! Found some on eBay. Never know 'bout those guys!

Okay! So the cable comes with different tips, and you pick the one you need? That makes a little more sense. And, yes, the drive tip is in pretty good shape. By the way, is there any significance to the 54MT314 series compared to the 54MT313 series cables? I noticed the 313 is used on the speedometer. Is the 314 series the interchangeable tip type? No biggie, just curious!

I know this has come up before, but I'm still unclear about it. So, 'xplain it to me! And, as always, pictures help. Need a tach cable. May need a tach too, but that's another discussion. The build sheet calls for, I believe, a 54MT314AP88 cable. The one on it now is longer than the 88" implied by that number, and the engine end has been spliced for some reason. Maybe to adapt the end? Maybe something to do with the drive pin? Numbers available now are 54MT314DP88/94/108, etc..., suggesting revisions have been made. This number series shows up as a "speedometer" cable in several places. Are the tachometer cables standard speedometer cables? And, if they are, how does one deal with the odd-ball drive gizmo on the engine end (see pics)? I don't believe a standard square speedometer cable can stick into this thing and still thread on...too long, I would think. Or, is it? That gizmo sticks up quite a ways from the drive gear. Do you stick the cable into it and stake it? Or, would the end, shown below, interfere with the sheath? Please help!

Zip ties? Zip ties are good, m'kay?

Niiiccceee!!!

Another shot, after a little more tweaking & a new Ny-Lock nut...

Yep. Precisely what I did. The clamp now holds the stop cable. The stud on the pump arm was worn the f#@k out. Almost falling through the arm. Of course, nothing to be found. So, I had to make my own. The hex piece is a coupling nut. There is a shouldered grade 8 screw in the back. It is tightened into the coupling nut firmly, & Loc-Tired. Then the wire hole is drilled through. Finally, the outside screw clamps the wire in place. The washers on either side of the arm take up extra slack, but still leaves the assembly free to rotate in the arm. Looks pretty good, I think.

Oh...and would a length of rubber tubing (gas line, etc...) make a suitable "grommet" to take up the space between the sleeve and the bracket? And, I would still like to see a close-up of somebody's throttle cable bracket.

The shutoff cable has nothing on the end of the sleeve. It does look like it USED to have something on it. Currently, it is being retained by the narrow slot in the clamp. The round part of the clamp is considerably larger than the sleeve, which is why i think there may have been a ferrule or something on the end of it.Incidentally, I found some cables fairly cheap on www.fortpro.com. Anybody know if these are any good?

Any thoughts on the "end" of the tube on the shutoff cable? I'll see about making up a throttle bracket.