doubleclutchinweasel

true...true...

Hey, 57. I still can't get over how freakin' cool your truck is!

U-models fall over on their sides. Cabovers fall over on their faces. Same problem; different damage!

Yep. Best way to get a 237 is to just get a 237! I knew there were differences, but didn't know how many! I have a sneaking suspiscion that some of the "converted" motors were just about half-converted. A 237 is one of the most common motors out there. Shouldn't be too hard to find one. 'Course, I'm still kinda fond of my 250-horse 673C. No, it doesn't have the low-end of the 237, but does have pretty good power up in the sweet spot.

A 673C might already be fire-ringed. I've heard they were, anyway. And, the C has the extra head studs, like a Maxi. Know that piece for a fact. Seems like we discuss this every so often, but I'm not sure it is ever 100 percent nailed down. Seems like a good candidate for the wiki...

Yeah. That's right. You'd have to offset the cab the other way to use it south of the equator, wouldn't you!

I would assume that the center section could be changed to accommodate the new parts. But, i'm just guessing here. I mean, the housings should be the same, with different "guts" in them. Not sure how hard it is to do, though. I'll bet Superdog or some of th other more experienced types will probably know a lot more about it. Have absolutely NO experience with the automatic ones!

I like the bold. I can see it.

Ya know... I've always seen the range selector on the right side of the stick. But, I've never seen a "virgin" RoadRanger setup! I wonder if there were variations in the placement of the valve. Left, right, front??? Anybody have one set up differently?

I have also had trouble accessing it. Seems like I had to go at it from a different angle lately.

Yep. You can see the Deep Reduction switch in the first pic. Considered swapping over to the "new" 15-speed knob, but Eaton says you need to swap the cover on the cylinder to work correctly with the new valve. Maybe, maybe not. Didn't really feel like fooling with it! Since I'm now back to "original", I guess it's a good thing I didn't do it! An Eaton-Fuller valve is around $80. A Haldex-Midland is around $50. I can wear out a lot of the World American cheapies for that kind of dough!

'Bout a year ago, I posted on here how the old range select valve on my 15-speed RoadRanger was leaking. A rebuild kit cost as much as the new-style knob. So, I put one of the new all-in-one knob/valve assemblies on it. It looked a little odd in that old Mack, I will admit! But, it sure felt better on the hand! Well, the %#$& thing started leaking just a touch of air in high range. It would stop if you held ever so slightly upward on it. But, if you hit a good bump, or accidentally touched it with your finger, it would sometimes start to hiss again. I tried cleaning up my old T-handle valve, and putting new O-rings in it. But, it seems to be beyond help. Can't get it to stop leaking. Pretty bad wear on the slide. So, screw it. I bought one of the Chinese copies of the original valve. Cost me a whopping $9!!! Stuck on an el-cheapo plastic knob, and, voila! We're old school again!

Pretty sure it has one. Every R i've ever been in did. Probably under the dash, or on the inside of the firewall. I'll look in my service manual tonight, and see if I can find you a picture.

Non-detergent oils allow the crap in the oil to settle out. This is normally used in engines with no filter. Detergent oils keep the crap in suspension, so it will travel to the filter and be filtered out. For what it's worth... As a general rule, however: (1) Some is better than none, and... (2) Clean is better than dirty.

I've seen RD-800 models that look like that. I think they used a lot of them in Canada.

I'm still afraid it will fall over...

Welcome!

That's what I've seen, exactly.

That you, Barney?

Every Mack "locking" system I ever saw did just that...locked. Detroit Lockers (a.k.a.: Detroit Automotive Locking Differential) allow the "faster" wheel to overrun the slower one by virtue of their spring-centered, one-way ratchets. Only one ratchet gear can override at a given time, as the center gear will be forced completely into the other side gear at this time. This allows for cornering without binding. But, the ratchets can be heard "clicking" during the turn. They do, however, provide absolutely positive drive when going straight ahead. Incidentally, a Detroit Locker will also allow one wheel to overrun the other while going downhill or decelerating. So, they don't hold back as well as a true locker or a spool on a downhill. The primary use of the Detroit is to provide that positive drive to both wheels under acceleration. Lots of Detroit Lockers in race cars and off-road pickups. Don't use the term Detroit Locker as a generic term, as it is a very specific piece of equipment. Now, if they make one for heavy trucks, I know nothing about it, as I am not aware of it. Again, the Mack locking systems I've personally experienced actually LOCK the unit in question, whether that is a differential or the power divider.

Oh, dear God! Here we go again! PLEASE, read the whole thread...especially SuperDog's excellent summary.

Again, i'm pretty sure the odd-angle boxes are shared with F-models... Personally, I've never seen a straight one..not in person, anyway.

Apparently, the gold dog meant different things at different times. All the gold dog does now is make my head hurt to think about it.

As long as you WANT them to both engage at the same time...

Happy Birthday to U... Happy Birthday to U... Happy Birthday, dear Vinny... Happy Birthday to U...