doubleclutchinweasel

I'm sorry! Let me apologize up front. I just couldn't help myself... ...Well, Earl grabbed on the shifter and he stabbed her into fifth gear and then the chromium-plated, fully-illuminated genuine accessory shift knob come right off in his hand. I says, "You wanna screw that thing back on, Earl?"...

Jim Rockford! Oh, yeah! One of my favorite series. Hey, Jim's dad, Rocky, was a retired trucker! Couldn't be all bad. Even tolerated the one where the equipment thieves were stealing the "D8 Cat"...which looked more like a 450 John Deere, or something.

Outstanding!

If it actually has an alternator, not a generator, a defective diode in the rectifier circuit will also cause this.

I was JUST thinking about that episode! Sonny claimed that the truck would not start. So, he and Will took the turbo off, pretending to try to find the problem. Then, they broke one vane off the impeller, to show there was a problem. Apparently, truck hi-jackers have no mechanical savvy! Then, Sonny (I believe) pretended to have difficulty holding the piece in place to weld it back on, and asked his captor to help him hold it still. When the bad guy came over to help him, he got wallopped! I had to call B.S. on the welding of the impeller...and I was like 12 or 13 at the time! I remembered wondering if anybody was really that gullible! Oh...memories...

The pivot pin on my R is frozen in the aluminum base, and pivots on the pedal...which is exactly backwards from the way it is supposed to be! But, it is quite free and causes no problem. I periodically spray it down with PB and tap on it, hoping it will free-up one day. At some point, I will need to replace the foot valve. Not being able to get the pin out makes it almost impossible to remove one of the retaininf nuts, which makes it pretty difficult to get the valve off the treadle plate. I really figure that I'll wind up having to replace the whole assembly since I can't get it apart the "right way". But, I'll continue the PB/tapping regimen until the last possible moment. That stuff will surprise you sometimes! By the way, the old manuals actually tell you to pull the rubber boot up and lube the plunger periodically. Normal maintenance.

EXACTLY what he said!

What he said on the plunger.P.B. Blaster on the pivot pin? (Keep it out of the plunger)

Actually, they are in area 61B.There are also some in area 41B, area 83B, and a couple in area 75B. These were in the optional material "unobtanium". I also heard an unsubstantiated rumor of some odd-ball cabs in area 600R. These were in the even-rarer optional material "bull-shitium". If you find these, please put me down for 1.

What he said...

When I access BMT on my mobile device, it always tries to go to the "mobile" version of the website. I don't really mind this, as most mobile versions are geared toward running well on a mobile device. But, I just can't find a link to "my content", like there is under your user name on the "full" version. So, I keep going back to the full version, simply because it makes it easier to find my conversations. I noticed that there IS a menu on the moble site. And, it has several potentially useful links on it...but no "my content" link. Any way we could get that function added under the mobile menu? Or, does anybody know where that function is? I might be missing it somewhere!

This one was in (I believe) Denver, CO for several years before Brad bought it. One was destroyed in filming. The other, (I believe it was the shorter wheelbase) was, I believe, repainted and went on to do...something else.I would have loved to have driven this thing...just once!

Arrrggghhhhh....

All right. Up against the wall...

"I haven't seen anything like that since I was a little bitty baby." Sheriff Buford T. Justice of Portague County, Texas

Maybe this file will open... Nope! Apparently not! I'll try something different! Okay. Try this one...

Excessive? Is there any such thing? Well, I guess there could be. But, I don't recall actually seeing them. Hey, I think this post is back on track!!!

C'mon guys! Vinny doesn't deserve that! I mean, he already has to worry about his current U-model falling over. He doesn't need to worry about his image & appearance too! Sorry V. I kid because I care!

Here are a couple of pics to show the numbers... Look between the slotted plug on the fuel pump drive and the reservoir for the PS fluid. You can see the engine number in the pic. The frame one is easy. The front axle number should be stamped on the front axle beam, just below the RH spring perch. Maybe something like FA 534, or something.

Cab tag may not mean much. Check the serial number on the RH frame rail, just behind the RF tire. If the rail is original, that number might match the registration. If not, there have been some changes. By the way, I understand that, at some point, they started stamping the LH rail on the inside, as sort of a hidden way to track the original number, just in case sombody tried to alter or obscure the more easily seen one on the right. The "R685" would have been equipped with the ENDT-675 (237 HP) engine. Obviously, that's not what's in there! The engine model number should be stamped on the RH side of the gear case, near the front of the engine.

Yeah. You're right. They do live hard. Probably will just stick to steel.

Yes. Please do. Mine is a '70 model. The doors do not match. One or both have been replaced. Let me see what you have. And thanks!

Idunno guys! That looks more like a 285 or 300 Maxi, doesn't it?

By the way, I had to disassemble the lh door to do a little work on the latch. The bolt plate for the mirror was in the bottom. And, I'm pretty sure the one off the rh side is rattling around in its door, too. So, good doors I could definitely put to use. Aluminum ones might make my sticker peck-up!

Did you get into a lot of trouble for shaving in class? I always did!