doubleclutchinweasel

Mmmmmmmm......... Cooooolllllll.....

Same thoughts... Is this an E6 or an EM6. Or, what is the ENDT- number? It should be stamped on the timing case. A Maxidyne version pulls fine down low. If you have the non-Maxi, basically a Thermidyne, it prefers to run a bit higher RPM, & not be lugged. Mine is the ENDT-673C. It's a 250-horse Thermodyne, but has oil-cooling jets on the undersides of the pistons, & the extra head studs in the corners if the heads...like a Maxidyne. So, it can tolerate a LITTLE more lugging, due to the extra cooling, but still won't live at 11-1200 like a Maxi. I've seen engine/transmission swaps which result in impractical combinations. But, if it's a factory 6-speed Maxitorque, & a factory Maxidyne, do what Lmackattack & jakebrake86 said, & keep the revs down in the 11-1900 RPM range. Oh...and keep a sandwich or book handy to pass the time!

Good point. Thanks.

Generally, you find "trailer" tires on trailers. Got to have "all position" or "steer" for the front axle. But, thank you for your comments.

Nope. I live in b.f.e.. Actually, lower b.f.e.. I have contacted some dealers in other cities. So far nobody has anything. Most folks around here wear their tires to the cords before they pull them off.I have a guy with several trucks in Charlotte who's squirrelling away drive tires as he pulls them off. But no steers yet.

...and here's the 424 somebody has on ebay...Notice the external prongs which engage the striker. Different.

This is the "old" style latch (62QS325A) and striker (keeper?) (31RC310B) which lasted up into the 80s...

I still need 2 good used 11R22.5 steer axle tires. I don't want new ones, since they will dry-rot long before I'll ever wear them out. Not worth the money. Prefer a matched set with maybe 50% tread life left on them. Probably okay with G (12 ply) rating, since I don't haul anything on this thing. Most importantly, I want sound, not abused tires that are nice and round. Only ones I have found locally have been severely cupped-out, or cut-up, or had the beads destroyed from dismounting. Anybody in the region got any...or a good source for them??? Thanks, Kent p.s.: I have a few odds and ends (Dayton wheels, etc...) I can offer for part of the deal...if anybody wants them.

Well... I have found out that the latch changed at a later date than the "+3" or "+4" cab change...which was '73 or so. It appears that the later latch showed up around '83-84 but, as usual, may not have been a "clean" break. I also figured out that it is quite easy to tell the difference in the latches just by looking at them. I will post some pics later of the "old" style, which might help somebody out. The doors which use the later latch reportedly have minor differences in the lock/latch locations as well. This corresponds to rumors I heard some time back when somebody was looking for a door shell, and was warned by the brain trust that there WERE, indeed, two different R-model doors. I had a similar experience some time back, when I thought I had found a newer cab to put on mine. It was a super nice RD cab, with all the deluxe interior trim, in great shape, and for a really good price. But, it had the wrong hood interface shape. It was for a later RD which used a flat-sided hood, NOT an earlier one which used a slope-sided R-model hood. The guy who had it insisted that there was "only one" R-model cab. When I offered to show him the difference, he was not interested in seeing it. I figure, if you're gonna sell stuff, you should know these things! Whatever... I did take my door latch out this weekend, and did a little...uhhh...patching on it! Where pieces were staked together from the factory, and had loosened, I applied the "7018" solution to them! By welding together some of the looser parts, I was able to get the latch tightened-up enough that the door will now close and latch fairly tightly without having to slam the silly thing. While I was in there, I was pleased to find that the door itself on that side is very solid. Everything in there, however, is shot! The passenger-side door is much worse. Anyway...I'll keep patching on this old stuff, and collecting parts for later use. Maybe I'll eventually find myself a good cab I can restore and put on here.

And I've got a few more of the 2-piece...just in case anyone wants more!

Okay... I finally found a picture of a 62QS424. That is NOT what I have! So, I think you were correct on the 62QS325. But, I can't find a picture of one of those anywhere. I can see, however, how someone might think the "bunny ears" on the 325 might look like a "gear". But, when I think "gear", I think more than 2 teeth! I guess that's why you should always look before you buy. My parts guy saw those 2 teeth, and thought it was a gear. When he told me the 424 looked like a "Y", I thought about the 2 teeth on mine. But, it turns out that the 424 has a "yoke" sticking out the front of it. probably latches on a "bolt". My unit latches in a "C-shaped" cutout in the striker. So, again, I think you are correct on the 325. So glad it costs more! Yah!

Well, it gets weirder and weirder! I just spoke with a regional Mack parts guy who seemed to know what I was talking about. He also had a 62QS424 on-hand. He says the best way to tell the difference is by the rotating part of the latch which engages the striker. Acording to him, the 62QS325 will have a "gear" on the end of the shaft, while the 62QS424 will have a "Y" on it. Well, mine has a "Y" shaped gizmo on it, the two prongs corresponding to the two "latchings" the door does when closing. That is, the first is the "safety" latch, and the second is the "full" latched. I think I'll go down there tomorrow and see what it looks like. More to come...

Thanks. I thought that it was the "older" number. I just didn't know if it was "old" enough!

I've found 2 numbers for LH door latches. They are 62QS325C & 62QS424R. Does anybody know if either of these fit the "early" R-model doors? Or is there another part number?

Here's the reason I needed it replaced, and here's the "new" one in place.

A few shots from the service manual...

This was still on eBay. Had one of my local eBay-holics order it for me. Looks like the rubber insulators are readily available, both from Mack and aftermarket sources. I love it whan a plan falls together...

Oh, you funny man! You make my dog laugh!Seems like keeping the 4-wheelers running has cut into my Dog time lately. Hate working on them-there littl'-uns! I'll get back to it eventually! In the meantime, I'll do my research & planning. Hopefully it won't be long till I'm back at it. And, as always, we thank you for your support...

Thought it sold. Will re-check.

Looks like the most likely candidates for the parts to be used are: Meritor A3102N3472 Cross Tube. This is one of the "DS1379S" tubes - 59.4"L x 1.75"D x 1-1/8 - 12 threads. Slightly shorter (0.6") and smaller (1/4") than mine, but should be fine. I like the 1-3/4" diameter better than some folks' 1-1/2" ones. Have found this tube online for around $130. ES405L and ES405R Tie Rod Ends. Not sure whose, yet. These match the stud dimensions on mine. In fact, the curb-side one crosses over to the Mack 10QH38 part. The road-side one is the same, but with LH threads. These can be had for around $50 each. The total for the swap should be about $230, which is less than the cost of the OEM Mack cross tube alone! Hey, that's the whole point, isn't it?

Will do.

Here's a picture of one that somebody had for sale a while back, just for reference.

I have found enough numbers, thanks to everybody's help, to feel confident that I can swap this over to something a bit more standard. Thanks, everybody!

I need a spring retainer cap for an FA535 front axle. This is the cap which holds the rubber insulator pads in place on the tail end of the front spring. The one I need is the right (passenger) side one. The Mack part number 52QK389 is cast onto the cap (see pic). Oh, if you have a set of the pads, we can talk about that, too. I am waiting on Stengel Bros. to reply as to their stock status on the pads. Kent

Yeah. Start with the tapers. Some of these tubes are 1-1/4", not 1-1/8", threads. Again, won't matter as long as the tube, ends, & tapers match.Thanks again.