doubleclutchinweasel

Main considerations were cost & simplicity. The pipe was cheap & took 10 minutes to put on. Plus, back in the day, we never spent extra money on chrome...it didn't make us any more money!

Okay. Got tired of putting a jug over the stack every time it rained. And the black gunk that blew out when it started was a mess. So, here's a new piece of pipe to tote the smoke...and hopefully keep the rain out! Sorry for the sideways pic. Haven't figured out how to rotate them from my phone...

Wow! I just figured somebody needed a key, & only the Briggs & Stratton blank would fit. Had no idea it might be original. Or maybe the B&S stands for something else!

I haven't seen one of those since I was a young 'un! Somebody should start offering reproductions...

Just a coincidence? This is my Mack key!

Drove The Dawg to work 3 times this week. Nothin' like an R-model for a daily driver! Finally did replace the water filter supply hose. It was pretty rough. Of course, when I opened the "spigots" to let the antifreeze back in, they both leaked. $#!&$#. Took them out temporarily & put plain elbows in. Nice thing about an old Mack; you can usually fix one with parts from the hardware store! Seems like we have forgotten that on all the new stuff... By the way, the hose fittings on mine were 45º "SAE" fittings, not 37º "JIC" fittings. ..just in case anybody was interested... All the stuff I've done on this toy so far has been very educational. Sorry I'm not better at documenting it with pictures. But, I would be glad to advise on anything I've learned.

Yeah. You gotta watch the clearance at the drive-thru!

Haven't fixed a blasted thing lately! Just been drivin' it some. Driving to work. Driving to see the grandsons. They like to blow the horn! Here's a picture of the Dawg at dusk, waitin' on a pizza...

Thanks! It's nice to be appreciated for your weaseliness!Kent

All them there shiny new bolts sure make it look purty!

Replaced the leaky rubber hoses on the transmission with tubing this morning. No more leaks! Maybe get some pics this afternoon.

The parts used were as follows: Synchronizer Kit: K-3493 (New Rings and New Sliding Clutch) O-Ring Kit: K-1447 Gasket Kit: K-2199 This K-3493 (formerly K-2447) synchro kit includes the K-2446 kit (improved rings and new springs), and includes the 20336 sliding clutch. This eliminates the trouble of trying to make sure the hub used matches up to the rings used. The 20336 hub has 13 splines. The other hub (20323) has, I believe, 18 splines. I hink that one was found on heavier transmissions. The 20336 replaces the old 16716, and the 20323 replaces the old 16759. The splines in the new hub continue completely through the bore, whereas the original hub in mine only had partial splines, and was relieved the rest of the way through. The new one, therefore, has much more spline engagement. I THINK the K-3491 (formerly K-2445) synchro kit MIGHT have fit the old hub, but don't quote me on that. I felt it wasn't worth fooling around with the old hub, considering the difference in the kit prices. Besides, now i have current parts! The O-ring kit and gasket kit were dirt-cheap, and were actually cheaper then just buying the handful of gaskets and O-rings actually needed. So, that one was a no-brainer!

Everything is back in. Works MUCH better now. A couple of those old air lines still need attention. I'll probably tinker with that a little this weekend.

Mine did it worse when it warmed up. Almost flawless when cold. About 50/50 when warmI tested it by rolling along at about 20 mph, in neutral, clutch released. Switch back & forth between high & low. Worked fine going into high, & always ground going into low. I'm hoping this straightens it out...

A few more in-process shots of the aux box adapter weasel. Guess I'll end up building some other system when I need to pull the tranny.

Thanks! I was kinda proud of that. I'm gettin' too old to hoss these parts around.

A few pics of the aux box on the lifting weasel / work stand...and the errant synchro. Looks like the pin shoulders and hole edges are the culprits. I just hope the 4 generations of "superceded by" part numbers are accurate, 'cause I've ordered the new synchro set based on them!

Hopefully, I can post some pictures of the process soon. Raining too hard right now...

Yeah, that's what I've been doing, too! I hope I find everything else in there in okay shape. Don't want to spend a fortune in there. But, it works now...even downshifts smoothly about half the time. So, I'm hoping it's mostly sound. Anyhow, I'm hoping a complete synchro kit (about $250), a gasket kit (about $35), and an O-ring kit (about $15) will smooth it out. If the rain'll hold off, I'm going to try and tear into it this evening. We'll see...

My RTF-915 Road Ranger has started grinding when shifting from hi to lo range. It's fine going into hi. I think I've found the most likely part numbers for the synchro unit, gasket kit, & o-ring kit. I've also downloaded the parts and service manuals from Eaton. These pictures are of a device I've built to attach the auxiliary section of the trans to a floor jack to aid r&r, as well as serve as a work bench. Once I get it apart, hopefully I'll be able to verify part numbers & get it shifting smoothly again. At a future date, I'll also need to drop the whole box & put in a clutch. When I do that, I think I'll tear the box down & convert it to an overdrive model. But, that's another story... More pics & updates to follow...

Looks just like the power steering reservoir on my R-model. The next argument will be over what type of oil to put in it! By the way, that also adds ballast to the RH side!

Me too. 'Course...I didn't have all that far to go...

You tell 'em, 'Dog!

Some good responses on this. But, some of them may not address your question! Clearly, there are two ways to shift; clutchless and double-clutch. Both work fine...IF PROPERLY EXECUTED. You CAN upshift with a "single clutch", as long as you wait for the input shaft to slow down to "match up" the RPM and let it slide in without too much mismatch. But, you CAN NOT downshift without either double clutching or "floating" the shift, because you simply HAVE TO raise the input shaft RPM to the point where the the shift will engage. Like most of these responses, I typically do not use the clutch to shift when things are nice and pleasant with the world. But, on occasions where I need to get out-&-in quickly, I'll use the clutch to get on with it. You mentioned the partial depression of the clutch in the original post. Yes, I have been known to do that too! The main point when shifting, either with or without the clutch, is to UNLOAD the transmission to allow it to come out of gear easily...and not chip corners off the dogs! Then do the same thing going into the next one. Sometimes, that little partial de-clutch is enough to do that. Sometimes, a particular tranny will shift BETTER with a partial de-clutch than with the pedal all the way to the floor. Keeps things spinning, I guess. Used to drive a Mack 18-speed Quadruplex which always shifted easier without the clutch than with...especially on those split-shifted downshifts! Kept you from getting hung-up between gears as much. Now, that's fun...trying to match up both ends of the box to get SOMETHING back in gear...while going uphill...loaded...and losing speed...before the silly thing came to a complete stop. I'm sure there are a few other old-timers out there who have experienced that particular little slice of heaven!!!

I have a stick!