doubleclutchinweasel

Welcome! If nothing else, some of the posts are...uhh...entertaining! Kent

Exactly!

Thanks, everybody! This was a lot more work than welding a bolt on top of the stick. But, it should be very durable...and it's certainly cleaner!

This looks and feels SOOOO much better now! In reverse, it's about the same height as the bottom-right section of the steering wheel.

Finished knob installed.

Set screw in place.

Using jig to file top of stick square and "index" knob.

Drill jig with 1/2-13 tap bushing.

Drill jig with 27/64" bushing.

3/16" pilot hole.

Drill jig in place with 3/16 bushing

Range selector valve is leaking. Old "bat handle" knob is worn through, and too tall. Looks like something off one of Ed Roth's cartoon cars from the '60s! The 5/8-11 to 1/2-13 adapter they used adds another inch or so to it. Picked up a new-style Eaton-Fuller knob, with built-in range valve. Now, I'm making a drill jig to mount on top of the stick (after I cut it off) to allow precise drilling & tapping of the stick. I'm gonna cut the stick off, and drill & tap it to the 1/2-13 thread size on the new knob. Then, I'll put a long grade 8 set screw in the hole, and thread the knob on. Rather than screw the knob on and use jam nuts to lock it in place, I will use a washer of correct thickness to "index" the knob on the stick. That will be a little more work, but it will be VERY clean. I looked at the actual 15-speed knob. But, according to Fuller, you have to change the cover on the deep reduction slave valve on the transmission to make it work. Must be a little different logic to the air circuit. No matter. The hi-lo range is the important one to me. And, it is supposed to require no modifications. As soon as I get the various bits and pieces made, I'll try to document the whole process in pictures. I know, I suck at that! Always run short of time and forget to take the pictures! I'll try to do better on this one, Vinny! More pics to follow (we hope!)...

I put a few pictures in a gallery out there...Kent