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doubleclutchinweasel

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Everything posted by doubleclutchinweasel

  1. doubleclutchinweasel
    That's what I hoped it was.I found some round "washers" off of something (shipping brackets off a washing machine, I think) in the garage. They were about 1/8" or 5/32" thick. Seemed to work prety well. Dog is sitting happily on the hood now. Superdog is going to send me a "K" for the front of the hood. Starting to look like a Mack...and the hood is a HECK of a lot easier to open! Kent
  2. doubleclutchinweasel
    Got the dog and base today. Looks practically new. Will definitely be the shiniest thing on the old truck! On the underside of the hood, where the dog attachment bolts pass through, there is a metal re-inforcement "strap" to protect the fiberglass. There obviously used to be another "backing plate" of some kind on top of that, as there is a distinctive imprint in the paint. The imprint appears to be about the same 4-1/4" diameter as the base under the dog. Does anybody have one (R, U, DM) sitting in their yard and can tell me what this missing plate looked like? Is it just a flat plate? If so, what thickness. Or, is it some sort of stamped shape? Thanks, everybody! Kent
  3. doubleclutchinweasel
    Well, the dog and base may have evaporated. Had one of my friends who's an eBay regular bid on one for me. Got it for a reasonable price. Estimated delivery was yesterday. No dog today. EBay has no tracking data for it yet. No response from seller yet, either. Not sure if he's off doing the Thanksgiving thing, didn't like the price he got (HE set the reserve, not me), or what. Will give it another day or two, then get pissed-off. This is just one of the reasons I hate dealing with eBay. While most sellers are very responsive, some just plain suck. I can't believe nobody on here has any parts I could buy! Kent
  4. doubleclutchinweasel
    So, you wanna part with any of it? Prices?
  5. doubleclutchinweasel
    Mine is a '70, & it has the small. Maybe changed when the cab changed (72-ish)? My letters are almost dead on 2" tall. Maybe somebody else knows the size of the larger ones. Anybody got any small letters???!!!!!! Kent
  6. doubleclutchinweasel
    Dog on the way. Anybody ever find a spare "K" in their stuff? Kent
  7. doubleclutchinweasel
    I used no impact tools. That's some difference. Also, I had a lot of cleaning to do. Still, you be smoking'! Kent
  8. doubleclutchinweasel
    Mine had the seal ring slipped-on, with an o-ring seal, and an index pin. The two sides were different. One had a captive o-ring in a groove in the seal ring. One had a recess in the seal ring which located the o-ring. Must have been replaced at different times. Took the knuckles to work today and used the arbor press to make the in-and-out a little easier. Also cleaned on them some. I got everything back together this evening. Worked on it about 4 hours yesterday, and about 10 today. So busy I forgot to take pictures! Since you did yours so much faster, you must be a lot better mechanic than I am! Either that, or you had all the right tools and parts. My wife said you may have also had a pit crew! Took me the better part of an hour to indicate the wheels in and get them torqued-down nice and straight. Drove it down the road. Much less wallowing and wobbling in the front end. Steering noticeably tighter. Got back home and topped-off the oil levels in the hubs by flashlight. Have a hood ornament coming. Should be here next week. That may be all for this winter. Well, maybe replace the LQ-2 valve for the front brakes (leaks a little). But, that's not too bad. More to come... Kent
  9. doubleclutchinweasel
    Thanks everybody. I took the tires & wheels off. Drained the oil-filled hubs. Took off the nuts & washers. Pulled the outer bearings out. Backed off the brakes. Pulled the hubs off. The wear rings came out with them. They are o-ringed to the spindles, not pressed on. Took the backing plates off. I need to get the seal rings out of the seals. They are indexed by a pin, so I will need to install them first before the hubs go back on. Tomorrow I'll start taking the knuckles apart. Wish me luck! Kent
  10. doubleclutchinweasel
    Did yours use the needle bearing on the top side? Yours have brakes on this axle? Kent
  11. doubleclutchinweasel
    So, I ordered the kingpin/bushing set this morning. Should have it this week some time...maybe in time to work on it this weekend. I was debating whether to pull the wheel/tire/hub off as a single unit, or to take the wheel/tire off first. Any advice? I'm assuming you put new seals in the hubs, while you had them out? Also, did you "drive" your bushings/seals in & out? Or did you have access to an arbor press? And, in general, anything you might remember about this, and would be willing to share, would be much appreciated. I hope to have some pictures to post, once I get it all torn down. I'm just hoping and praying the knuckles are good, once i get them stripped down. I'm due for SOMETHING to go easy on this thing! Kent
  12. doubleclutchinweasel
    Ever find out if you had any letters or other bits and pieces? Kent
  13. doubleclutchinweasel
    Cool. Let me know what you find. I was just looking on eBay and CraigsList for some of the other stuff. Also thought I might want to check the "For Sale" stuff here (Duh!). Thanks, Kent
  14. doubleclutchinweasel
    Okay! I promised myself I wouldn't "waste" money on cosmetic parts this early on. But, I need to fix a couple of things which are driving me CRAZY (I know...short trip). I need a dog for the front of my R600. I need the WHOLE dog, with base. This is the "old", flat-hood type (R, DM, U). Mine was stolen long ago. I don't want to spring for a new set just yet. I'll do that when I do the cab and hood work. I just need a usable one for now. Same deal for the "K" on the front. Mine is missing. This is, again, the "old" type, which are much smaller letters than the later stuff. Finally, I could use the Mack scripts off the sides of the hood (both sides). Dog, "K", and "Mack" scripts...in that order. Reasonably priced. Don't need "new" quality...just decent stuff (for now). I'll buy all brand-new parts as needed when I get to the body work. I just can't stand looking at that missing dog, or that "MAC" on the front any longer! (see my logo) What's anybody got??? Kent
  15. doubleclutchinweasel
    Sounds like a plan. Love to see the results. Kent
  16. doubleclutchinweasel
    Yeah, I just tied in to the flex somebody had already run from the down pipe to the back of the cab. It was in perfect shape, so I didn't figure there was any point in replacing it. The little hanger I made makes this mounting very solid. I don't know if the bracket may need re-inforced to keep from straightening out or not. If it does, I'll pull it off and add a "spine" to it. But, like I said, it seems very solid now. Best of luck on yours, Kent
  17. doubleclutchinweasel
    It was pretty easy. Even the bracket was not too hard. Good luck. And let me know if I can offer any info. Kent
  18. doubleclutchinweasel
    Awesome, Dude!
  19. doubleclutchinweasel
    Cool! Why am I not surprised that you posted the first reply, Vinny! I look forward to seeing yours, too. I'm trying to keep this thing on a budget, & making my own parts goes a long way. I hope seeing these posts will help somebody else who's in the same boat. Kent
  20. doubleclutchinweasel
    Got the new pipe made to go from the underside of the cab up to the stack. Bought a commercial 90, and a commercial 60. Cut a short piece off the end of the 90, and spliced it in between the 2 pieces. Fabricated a simple hanger to better support the bottom end of the 90. Don't have a MIG welder, so it was welded up with 1/16" 7014 rod, at about 40 amps, on "electrode negative" (straight) polarity. Scuffed the aluminizing off at the joints. Welded in about 3/8" long "stitches". Sprayed a little hi-temp paint on the welds to slow down old man rust. Nice to have the noise go out the top again! Kent
  21. doubleclutchinweasel
    I guess I'd better make a new pipe to go between the flex-pipe (coming from the engine compartment) and the stack. I'm not a huge fan of flex, but it works, and the piece is in excellent condition. The elbow is burned out, and the hanger, which uses a pipe clamp, is cutting through the old rusty pipe. I'm going to try and use "standard" bits and pieces (see image, below), and try to avoid having to cobble too much. I'll get all relative dimensions this weekend, and try to sketch up something workable. And, hopefully, it'll even fit! Hopefully, I'll have a picture or two of the results in a few days. Kent
  22. doubleclutchinweasel
    I've been trying to figure that one out, myself. The "standard" 1-1/8" threads are 7TPI and 12TPI. So, those taps WOULD be fairly common. The 16TPI, however is not "standard" on any 1-1/8" bolt. But, 16TPI threads are one of those "universal" threads which can be used on practically anything. We make production parts with "16 series" threads, and I have been known to use 16TPI threads on special tooling I've designed. So, whether it was easier or not, we may never know. I'm just glad you keyed me in on the fact that they MIGHT be different...which they were. So, thanks again for that. Kent
  23. doubleclutchinweasel
    Sent Adelman's a message. Haven't heard back yet. You know, the "different pitch" method on the threads is not that weird. Years ago, I saw an automatic screw machine which was tapping a hole. The spindle turned the same direction all the time. The tap, likewise, turned the same direction as the part. The only way they could drive the tap in and remove it, without being able to reverse either, was to change the speed of the tap. When the spindle rotated faster, the tap pulled into the hole. When the spindle rotated slower, the tap backed out. Basically, it's the same principle...differential movement. Think of it as the "delta" of the 2 pieces...speed on the tapping operation, and distance on the tie rod ends. Okay. Enough geekiness for now! Kent
  24. doubleclutchinweasel
    Just for kicks... Here are a few shots of the underneath. I have removed 40+ years worth of Grease-crete, and everything has been soaked down with PB Blaster. This helps loosen everything up, and makes the remaining crud a little easier to remove. Once I get going, I don't think this will be too bad...as long as I dont run into any "unexpected" problems in there! Kent
  25. doubleclutchinweasel
    Yep. That sounds like what I did to the front tires. I still have a lot of work to do. But, every little bit helps! Thanks, Kent

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