Freightrain

Wow, sounds like you have quite the predicament. I got "lucky" when buying the engine I am rebuilding. It was advertised as a 285. Upon looking at it, the engine was a 300+. I think it was a transplant and previous owner didn't look at it closely. The VIN said 285, so that's what they thought it was. I quickly made the deal. Not being well versed in possibilities of your engine upgrades, it is likely there is something you can do to increase power slightly. Doubt it can go far reliably, but anything can help.

Typical 511 series, 2"-6" bore. We have same kits at work but can go down to .75 bore with smaller head. Similar to this.

Most all pin bushings are copper colored,unlike rod bearings which have a copper base and metal coating on top. .0015 you should just feel it wiggle,barely. Not real scientific way to measure it but with skill you can tell if "ok" or bad. Taking to a machine shop is best. Any one with a pin hone will have the proper bore gauge to check it. When I did my 300, I have a Mitutoyo bore gauge that was able to check mine. It was good enough not to need redone.

Quality basically. Has to be "show quality". No patina.

I finally received my chain I ordered. Took 6 days and it was only about 30 miles away. Shipping was cheap or I would have just drove up last Monday and just picked it up. I welded my cross bars on the spreader pipe. I am not a certified welder but it AIN'T coming loose! I contacted my friend with crane to see what he has going on this week. I have to make two hook plates to weld on top of bar to chain to hook to. I can use the plasma cutter at work to make short order of putting holes in the plates. I did fill the transmission with the 50w oil I bought. It is ready for installation!!

Truck update: Power steering installed. I cut the original tube and steering shaft. I then made a bearing ring to weld onto the bottom of the cut tube. This supports the bottom of the shaft/column Mock up Steering shaft conversion. 3/4" key stock cut round to slip into shaft. Then welded and pinned. The bearing is a tight press fit but I also got two clamps for added support. I lined the square into the joint and drilled for 5/16" pin diameter(3/8"-16 bolt turned down on the end). The yoke has 3/8"-16 thread so I used a bolt with lock washer. Installed. Seems very solid. I may need to put an additional support clamp on the column if it seems to wiggly when driving. Time will tell The column is just barely aimed upward more then before but my hand doesn't contract the windshield. I can put a 1/4" spacer under the clamp to shim the column downward slightly if need be. Just glad it is basically done. Waiting on R model drag link to cut and paste with my B drag link to attach to spindle. Then once motor is in I can work on lines to pump. Hope to get motor installed next week. Fingers crossed.

The two times I have spoken with a pump shop I got the same glazed over eyes look when asking for "a little more". Either I have to give them the whole spec sheet, or nothing happening. I still have the printout from 25 yrs ago and FJH gave me the how to on my Robert Bosch pump on my old 673(and my 237). I don't have any info on this "P pump". Is there a simple rack setting that I can move a jam nut a couple flats?

A friend in Indiana has a B with a 300+ and a 14613. Ron Bogan. Really beautiful Blue with a bunk on it. Met him years ago, and I think he used to be on here. He says the tip turbine really screams. I'm thinking it will sound like one of those twin turbo Cats with that insane whistle. The 237 has a light whistle. The father of the local fellow that has been helping me has a B dump with 300+ and a 8ll? He has it turned up but hasn't used it for years since he closed down his trucking business. Truck is pretty rough and just sits in a shed on his farm.

Ya, the anticipation is really building up now. I just want it done!! 😆.

Thanks. Took some hard head beating to come up with that. So simple it took me a long time.... 😆. They don't swivel but no real need, I can just jerk it a bit and it will aim right out the door. The casters were a loaner from a friend so I didn't complain. I was telling him last week at lunch about what I was doing and he says " I have new set of them at the shop, I will go get them.

We're rollin now! Good enough to roll it out into the driveway so it can be lifted by friends crane. The plates sticking forward will hold chains going up to spreader bar and will get the chains ahead of the firewall. The front will have chains hooked to the front motor mount trunion using eyelets. Yea, it will be in the way of setting it down in the truck but will deal with jacking it up slightly and removing nuts and eyelets at that point. It's hard coming up with a way to hook onto anything up front. Besides using a strap around the crank/pulleys. I can't fudge it too much as it has to be able to be used the day the crane is here. Can't find out afterwards that I don't have a way to pick it up. I didn't want to have to remove anything off the motor like I did with pulling the 237.

I got some Sheaffer oil for my Triplex. Go back to my build and I have it posted.

I asked the shop I got this from and he explained it to me why not to make a phony 18 spd. I could have had him do the bearing upgrade for me then but I don't have any real reason to need splits on the low side.

18913a. Go big or go home. I was looking for a 12513 but this came up reasonably priced local to me. Plus it is a real double over. Geoff, I did just rotate the body over 180* by the four bolts of the housing. I don't think I can clock it downward. Steering box was my first concern.

I didn't take mine below 1500. Maybe 1400 if I was easing off the throttle before downshifting.