Freightrain

What in the F did I just try to watch for 10 seconds??? My favorite line from Terminator 2: "We're not going to make it, are we?".

Cars had similar oil cups in that time frame. I always just used regular motor oil. Most had a piece of felt that absorbed the oil and wiped it onto the bushing.

I spent my weekend making toothpicks out of thirty 60ft trusses that friend couldn't use for his new garage. He ordered them 5 yrs ago, been tarped, but many were junk and new builder has his own lumber coming. Real expensive toothpicks .....

We had a dose of summer then back to "Sprinter"(spring-winter). Ugh.

One tight exh valve could have been hanging open, loosing compression and causing the smoke? It's a stretch,but plausible.

I guess a real compression check would be the next check. One hole down from the others could cause smoke.

Could be a dead hole that is giving you white(fuel) smoke? Sticky injector not fully closing?

You are retired AND the truck is in a garage. What's the hold up..... 😆

How much more weight was typically put in the front trailer? 20k/18k or 24k/14k for 38k total. That was a good looking U. Tall rubber also. Was that usual?

Well, took a run Saturday and every seems well. Heater core popped in my 95 f150 so needed to tear into it Saturday morning, so I used the B for a parts run and go to lunch with friends. Ran through town and then onto the highway to go to lunch. All I can say is "Nice". No noise, no rattle, no buzzing of the shifter handles which mandated I keep a hand on the compound while on the highway. It stays in gear on decel, with Jake on. Once I got parked at lunch and let it idle,....no more knocking and clanking. I don't know how to act 😆. I need to roll under and check for any leaks. There were none on the garage floor after sitting there for a few weeks. Life is good.

I have heard conflicting results on a stock organic clutch and a 237 torque. I decided to step it up a notch. Overkill for me? Likely but I have been doing stick shift stuff for a lot of years and I tend to like to build in a safety net.

There should be a major hot wire at the S/P switch that feeds the dash area. I had converted mine to 12v start and I installed a solenoid where the S/P was and I attached that feed to it as a junction.

Mine is very smooth overall. I don't have to ride it to get the truck moving so it doesn't get hot/aggressive/chatter. A similar clutch in my hot rod will chatter horribly but in a car you don't have the gearing as in a truck so it heats up quickly and will get tough to drive smoothly. The first few stop/starts is okay, then it gets chattery. I've wanted to do my own maintenance on my race clutch but don't have the proper rivets or rivet sets to install them. I have a sponsor for our group that does all the NHRA big boys so it is simple for him and just a couple hundred dollars to have him completely service it. I only do it every few years so it is not a big expense.

Yes, see my posted picture above and compare to other pictures that Heinz posted of a stock clutch.

Seeing you want a useable truck, swap the rears the easiest way for you. If you don't mind lengthening the truck, find some rails with good rears and slip it over and bolt it. That is what I did with my B. 1991 Ford rails worked perfect, they were an inch taller but width wise was a perfect slip onto my original rails. I bolted it on over a 5ft overlap and stretched the truck 5 ft(using the whole 10ft of rails I got).