Freightrain

I have boost and pyro. Tonight's fabri-cobble. Jake brackets. Since finding real ones would be hens teeth I just took a few hours to come up with this. Looks like it will work fine. Had to fab up 237 also but this pump works backwards compared to 237 so I had to reverse it. Now I can wire it up and test it. New clutch. Was going with organic but for a "few dollars more" I can add 300 ft lb of capabilities. Why? Just because. It was what was in it when I took it apart. I was able to find yokes for steering column(I hope they are right). Will get them in a few days and I can start on steering column. I will bring Miller 211 mig home from work so I can fill in extra holes in frame where I removed original steering box. I have a big Miller but can't fit it in front of truck in my little stall so the 120/240 machine at work will be easy to work with.

Absolutely agree. I can't wait to kick it in the ass. Even though I am not heavy I am not afraid to make smoke!

They always have worked. Haven't tried it on this motor yet. There is oil getting to the heads, but it is the rocker tips that seem to be marginal at best. A few have oil drooling out of the rocker tip. Most basically nothing. Granted there is not much spring pressure, valve lift or RPM that would wear the rocker faces. I always question it because on a gas engine if you have the valve covers off....you are getting soaked even at idle.

The 237 ran for the last 9 yrs as such. I noticed the lack of oil back then. It still leaked at the valve covers enough to think it would be flooding the heads. It was always damp in spots.

Back to square one. Was able to fit in my small mill at home. Drill/tap insert thread insert. I also took a quick pass across the mounting surface with a face mill. Got rid of the rust and rough pitting. It's all back together and running. Question to the guys in the know: Does the valve train not get much oil? Valve tips are not getting much. A few more then others. The rockers are getting oil at the shaft as you can see it drip out but the rocker tip not so much. These are the rockers from the 237 and they didn't oil much. I did clean them and used air pressure to make sure the rocker passages are clear. Moving rocker up/down you can feel air spurt out at the tip. It didn't seem to have issues on the 237 with wear or anything. Is this normal? The studs I got were just a smidge short on thread length so I had to stack up a couple washers to make sure the nut didn't bottom out before tightening.

No problem Vlad. You have way more knowledge than me about that stuff. I have never thought that hard about it, as I just learned about cavitation when I bought my new 2000 Ford Power stroke pickup and keeping the ph level in the anti freeze checked to keep pitting to a minimum. As for the manifold, I did buy some thin wall inserts and new 3/8" studs that I will be installing tonight in hopes to get that all back on the engine and running again. I will post pictures.

Ya, remember seeing/hearing it. Thought it was an iron lung 275? Can picture their rigs but can't recall name. Nice stuff.

Yes, I didn't want to crack it! I was very careful with the heat.

Well, one step forward, one step back. The nuts on the turbo studs were marginal so I bought new locking nuts. As I was just snugging the last one.....zip.....stud came loose. 🤦 So off comes the turbo and I used heat to remove the other three studs to see there was barely any rust holding them into the manifold either. 🤦 Glad I hadn't folded the lock tabs on the exhaust manifold studs😲 Guess I will be installing helicoils in all four as the rest were not much to look at also once I unscrewed them. Ya, M10x1.5 threads. Why? Just because the stud threads for the nuts were m10x1.25. Ya, that is about the most odd thread ever. Just you can't get them at the local Ace hardware. Lucky for me I have two major bolt houses and it was something they carry. So, no more running until I get this to work and use the mill so they are nice and straight so the studs fit the turbo. Well, at least it wasn't in the truck? The last stud is being a real pisser. Letting cool and try later. I don't want to crack the manifold! I did loosen it off the motor so it could move around easier.

I used to constantly tear my SPS apart and clean the contacts. Got fed up and switched to 12v neg ground.

Go back and edit and erase the extra link codes, that should help with the pictures. The codes are piggybacked . Go to the "jpg" and erase after it in each line. I agree with Vlad. Get some 3/16" steel cable and some hooks and some turn buckles. Go diagonal along the sides and across the ends. That should stiffen it. That is how real steel buildings are erected. Our shop has them except they are like 3/4" rods. Big. And on windy days they clank as the building moves.

28QC429 is the whole assembly for a 1984 R686ST. I need the lower yoke for the steering box and the other half of that joint: The u-joint is still available: 2104-5103X.

That was my exhaust when I started the 237 10 yrs ago. 😆

The white one? I've seen stories of it.

Once I primed it, it starts instantly. It took a few tries and pumping primer to get it to that point.