Freightrain

I think I have a plan. Remove the inner sleeve.and then shorten the length to make it just like the 673. I think it will work out fine. The wear spot from the seal will be inside past the seal because shortening the sleeve length will move the seal outward toward the flange. Looks doable. Luckily I know a guy at a machine shop....😉

Ya, if I have any money left I might be able to afford to drive it.......🤣🤣🤣🤣 I did sell the +.002 liners to friend that loaned me puller. He will have use for them. Didn't recoup all but better then nothing. Garage is definitely getting cleaner! Might be able to start maintenance on race car??

No worries. My score today from the "wallet draining store"..... .500 valve stem seals.....oh, sorry valve wipers...🤦. You can see the distinct size difference between these and yours JM. Worthless Vulva part number. (Note date on sticker...2017) $40 drain plug and copper gasket. I also got the proper seal, installed it and can STILL TURN THE CRANK!!!😲 Only $300 for all.....🙄 Life is good.....🤨

Just see if they are for .500 stem. They are noticably larger ID then the common .375 version. Caliper the hole. If .315 they are for .375 valve If .450 they are for .500 valve.

Got this off FB. Part number for the hub. Dropping off parts and liner puller to Mack friend and he may have one.

My heads do have "wipers" as Mack calls them. When I was speaking with the dealer the young parts man was all confused when I said valve stem seals. That is the very common name for them in the "car" world. Apparently Mack has their own terminology. My heads have .500 stems and newer heads have .375. They had tons of .375 in stock. The .500 are 40 yrs out of date but they did find them at another place and will have them Monday. I do know that Pontiac back in the 60-70s just used a basic O ring to help keep the oil from running down the valve stem. It stayed on the stem and went up and down but it helped fling the oil off. Ford used an upside down "cup" that rode on the stem but over time got hard and fell off. You would get a cloud of blue smoke at start up from oil running down the stem after shutting the engine off. Most engines have the more positive seal today using a metal housing that presses onto the guide and then has a rubber seal. Which is what my heads have.

Ok, anyone have the part number for the crank hub for a 673! Not the 300, but a END673. I have to use the hub from my 673 motor like I did for the 237 to line up the belts. I noticed the ID is kinda scored and actually worn on one side. I would like to replace it if possible. The one for the 300 is longer by about 3/4" and has a pilot sticking out for the balancer to register. Unlike the 673 which has a small hub that registers in the counter bore shown. This all shortens the length for the balancer to clear the front cross member.

Thank you for the offer.

Pick them up Tues. Will post PT number.

No. Only been to Pittsburgh and Beaver Springs.

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad. $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day. Diesel fuel to get there($100?). Building it was where it hurts. $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc. Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time. Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!! Times 12. Wth.

"dark grey". Looks like a std grey primer color. Not dark at all. I knew it was likely not right. Only bought one can. Mack is definitely darker. I am leaning towards grey instead of maxidyne gold. The gold I bought for the transmission last year was horrible. 300 were gold, 300+ were grey.

$5 grind job and some time in the solvent tank washing them up. That is it. Ya, I will likely be well in or past that neighborhood when this is all in the truck and driving. All in a $2500 truck.....🤷

Pics from the shop today. Couldn't do anything with them so will update next week.

Ya, Took a couple weeks and a lot of soaking and pounding. Mack dealer didn't have the right stem seals so I will get them next week. I also should have the right rear seal coming also. Darn near ready to close this up for good next week!