Freightrain

Sealed bearing probably got warm enough to finally dry the grease out and burnt itself up. I used to run a bronze bushing in my race car but it would hog it out crazy. Switched to a sealed bearing and it has run decades without issue. The metallic disc is surprisingly smooth release. Though it only has 200# base pressure with 11 grams on each lever and a couple turns of base it has maybe 1200# at 6500 rpm. Easy to drive around. The metallic disc in my one hot rod was brutal to drive. Smooth backing out of garage, then it would get chattery and be horrible to get it to start out smooth. Either try to stall or I would just wind it up and go and then spin the tires. The race car has a solid hub but hot rods have sprung hubs. You made a comment early Geoff about encapsulated springs. I used to have those in some of my old sprung hub clutches. I guess it is suppose dampen the spring? I would get a year before I would rip the center hub out of the disc. It would rip the pedestals apart and the plastic on the springs would be hammered. Thus switching to solid hub design.

DW clutch in Maryland did mine that last time. Still haven't determined what failed this past fall on my trip home from PA. They were fast and very inexpensive. I have the old metallic clutch that was behind the 300, but I don't see a reason to pay shipping two ways. I will just order a new Eaton. I ordered the rebuild with that Carbolic lining. Yes, it was listed as a step between organic and metallic. Did well for the last 8 yrs. I will pull the plate off and see how it was when it warms up a bit outside.

Good thought but with 6 liners I don't want to be all day doing it. Hard to find big incandescent bulbs anymore, I do have a 250w halogen work lamp and those put off heat. I may get my small rosebud torch head out and warm it up. Can do that in a few minutes for each cylinder. Current temp of block is only 47* as that is what I keep garage set if not working in it. Forced air won't warm it fast enough to do any good with a big chunk of iron.

A takeoff from friends engine shop, he writes on everything as he measures it. Block, heads, intake, etc. Being around him for nearly 40 yrs it rubbed off. As for flywheel, my new friend that pulls with the old R model offered me a larger clutch. I didn't really get into it with him but I guess he runs a 15.5 behind his "237" pulling engine. I will ask him about it as I'm sure he is well versed. Being I am not making big power, I will stick with the 14".

Final wash up for liners. Checked bores again. Getting .0015/.002 shrink. Book calls for .001slip to .001 shrink if I am understanding the nomenclature. I think I will get my electric space heater out under the block before dropping liners(dry ice). Hope to get myself a touch more clearance Clarence. Will keep a hammer and block of wood handy. Got the mains all pulled down. Did the yellow dot ✅ just to remind myself that I checked it twice already. 👍 Hope to get liners in at the end of the week. Need to get more gaskets also so I can close up some holes.

I have 25 yrs stirring my sticks. They are novel but like I said, two big boxes are out of my price range. I would have spent 3x what I have in my Eaton compared to buying a set of used 5x4, 6x4 boxes. Though at the rate I am burning up cash on the rest of this winters upgrades it really isn't that far out of reach. 😆

I like stock stuff but also like tastefully done changes. The crazy build stuff is ok, but not my cup of tea. You'll never find a set of 12" stacks on my truck, ever. I'm cringing at putting a 13 spd in my B but I want something that will put up with my new powerplant. A real set of boxes is out of my price range. Like I say, build it as you want. Screw the haters.

You want to cringe at that price....but it is realistic in today's world. I'd love to get my dash and glove box plated but would hate to ask. I thought of having SS panels cut to fit over. Cheaper and easier, I think?

Dang these are brutal.....😆

Contemplating it. Will investigate further after cleaning it up more.

Last time I looked it was NLA. Had thought of trying to retro for a newer SS air cleaner if I could find one that was close to size. Going to try to refit mine first. Need to search a Donaldson? filter that may fit.

Here's a question for the masses. I want to cut open my oil bath air filter and convert to paper element. 11" dia x 13" tall would work if I can locate something of the sort. Little cut/paste and I think it will be fine. Getting tired of all the oil in the intake tubes.

The first dealer was lost when ordering the kit. Second dealer actually looked and found parts using an old R model parts book. It is where I typically buy from. The south dealer was where I used to deal with 20 yrs ago when I lived down that way.

126sb183a was only thing besides oil pan.

Might as well said "Sailboat fuel" as it's near an empty box. Jeezus. It has gasket kit but only valve covers and misc little crap for on top. Nothing included for anything below the heads(besides oil pan gasket). Why???

"Good"? Good enough for who it's for..... 😆 I have so little patience it makes it hard to be real good. My buddy who is a fabricator is OCD and will take forever to do a simple thing. I'm like F it and just do it. 😲 He is an artist. Me, not so much.

More progress. Timing cover is cleaned and new seal installed. Oh, ya, I don't have a gasket for it either. Wtf? Nickel and diming me to freaking death. Into chassis cleaning. Bump stops. Spindle arm: Removed the air steering parts, which included spindle arm being changed back to original parts that I kept. I started washing the grease and oil off the frame. I hope to chip away at it over the next month so I can bomb it black again. The frame is still black in many areas once you get the gunk off.

It was hot tanked so it is pretty clean overall. I will wire wheel the lugs and detail it a bit before clutch install.

Done 2.937 height.

New information online says depth is 2.937. Not 2.797 like in my manual. So the .04 we took off is about right since it is currently 2.975. I'll take the .04 off the top and it will be back around 2.935.

Ok, was grinding on my flywheel and after getting the surface flattened I measured height and it is almost .200 deeper then stock spec of 2.797. We didn't take but .050 off so apparently someone ground it way down and didn't take the upper surface down. I bet this clutch slipped like hell from the last rebuild. The book says don't take more then .070. Well it will be .200 down. I know it won't make any difference in my set up and can't see it having any issues with function. Anybody have thoughts?

Yup pan gasket was folded up. I have it under some "weight" on roof of wagon to flatten it out. The other day I widdled out a crank spacer "tool" for front cover install. Found a piece of unused tool steel with close dimensions and a hole in it already so I finished it up and have it ready. I'll get cover back tomorrow when I go into the shop and grind the flywheel and bring it home also. Baby steps. I am trying to figure a day to get liners dropped in. Since that is in a holding pattern, I figured I would work on getting column out of the truck in preparation for power steering install. Lucky the wheel has been off a few times so I have a good work around for getting it to pop off easily. Then work through 60 yrs of grime to get bolts out and trailer control/air lines off the column. Went "painless". Now to wait on Kevin to make a trip down to do some horse trading.

I remember buying a Felpro kit when I did the 237 heads. Not sure it came with everything either? Only needed head gaskets and miscellaneous paper gaskets for intake/water manifold, etc. No seals needed.

Out here poking around and realize this worthless F'n gasket kit doesn't have side cover gaskets either??? WTF. Don't they expect you to actually want to regasket every leaky part? Ugh, just don't get it. My $3500 rebuild kit has grown to $5000 and still missing pieces. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦

Old seal is 446 GC 235 B. Doh!!!!! I surely hope not in my lifetime!