Freightrain

My local engine shop uses liquid nitrogen for sleeves and valve seat installation.

My plan. I have a local supplier we used to get it for work years ago on a regular basis. I was in there this past summer to pickup some dry ice for a special project at work. The son(about my age) took over for his Father some time in the past. He remembers me after all this time. They were a Coke syrup supplier and you back then you could get free glass of pop while waiting.

Kit doesn't have front seal either. 🤦 WTF good is a "kit" if it leaves out all the important parts??

Just read the instructions that came with liners. Protrusion is .002-.009 not the .0035-.0075 in the Mack manual. Guess the .010 I have is close enough.

Crank does have a wear ring installed.

The mains are all rolled in. I only pulled them to 50# currently just to seat them. I need to borrow a friends big boy torque wrench as mine only goes to 150#. I might as well wait until the rods are in and I can torque it all up then. Cranks spins effortlessly with just a finger on a rod journal. Nice. I have rear seal plate washed up and ready for new seal. Oh, ya, I asked if it came with the kit. Ya, it was " supposed to" .....but it doesn't. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦. Just another $50 probably. Christ how worthless it is today dealing with very unknowledgeable people just starting out because all the older folks retired and left a HUGE gap of information. Next big hurdle: To get the bores cleaned up one last time, check liners and wash them to get ready for installation. The Mack books says they should slip in 1/2-2/3 way and whack them the rest of the way. Yikes. No, not doing it that way.

I may be screwed up. Pull clutch would wear the rear side(pulling crank towards rear). The pilot bearing would wear front due to crank being pushed forward. Time to relax before I get too wacked out on my thinking.

Yes, it has snap ring but that would put pressure on the back side. Have to dig under cover but I think my 237 had snap ring also.

You are one up on me....this is my first! It's just an engine but they all have their quirks. I just keep reading the manual to get ahead of things coming up. Guess I didn't read far enough 😆. Didn't dig deep enough into the parts box to see them on the bottom under everything.

I was wondering myself how the front side got wear but it is a PULL clutch..... Ah ha. I'm sure they pushed on the clutch at every start. Even dead cold and 10 seconds before it gets oil pressure. I learned 35 yrs ago to not push the clutch on start. My hot rods had 3000# clutches and a dry start would just eat the thrust up. I broke a lot of linkages. Even today, with the super light clutch in the race car(two fingers will push it to the floor)I do not push the pedal to start. Now ever vehicle has a safety switch to keep the brain dead from starting in gear. I do the shifter wiggle 3-10 times before I ever push the button. The thrust brgs are nice, no damage on surfaces. I drilled the old pin out and press in new one. We are good to go. So far only the center main had a single dirt scratch in the brg. The rest are smooth and minimal wear. No brass showing. I'm done for today and will install this and finish up the last three in the next few days. Yes, the new and old had vertical oil slots in them. Thanks Joey.

Duh, guess I should have dug out the NEW thrust washers. No slot but does come with one new pin. Guess that answers my question.

I am working on rolling in new mains. Question for FJH or Joey: The thrust brg on the cap side. Should it rotate slightly? The brg seems to have a slot machined in the bottom where it can rotate about 3/8"(width of pin) over top of the pin. Looks machined but the pin itself is worn on that side also. Coincidence? Back side is not cut and only wiggles a touch on the pin(which is still round and not worn like this side).

The 18913 I have has the two bolt pattern at the rear of main box for that rear hanging mount. It looks like it had something bolted there and this was in a power unit, not a vehicle.

The top of the bell is still just below the floorboard so the mount will be going down and back from the mount point on bell. I don't see an issue with clearance. Time will tell, I have a welder....it will all fit.

They are all in different area codes. I will have to fab up mounts to get up to the Eaton mount area. The frame mount ledge is about the same as upper mount holes in Triplex. The Eaton is way up compared to those. The pattern is completely different between each . See sketch.

Bottom. I don't have to pull floor to get to it.

Entire transmission is below the cab floor so that should not be an issue.

Comparing transmission mount locations. I bolted Eaton on backwards just to compare heights. You can also see how far forward towards engine it is compared to Triplex. Scribbled sketch. Eaton bell is 5" higher and 3" forward. This gives me something to work with to make mounts before it is dropped into truck. I hope.

Long road ahead....

Ok, it happened. My friend showed up with his log truck and we got the motor and transmission picked out, set down and separated. Sorry I didn't take time for photos because it was all hands on deck. I got them wrapped up enough for the rain that came in overnight. I have a heavy tarp for longer use. I still need to get Jake parts off yet and likely use the twin oil filter set up and oil cooler off the 237. The triple filter I heard is a bit too big and will get in the way of power steering. The oil cooler I already rebuilt when I put 237 in the truck so it should be good for quite a while yet. Kevin All is making plans to stop down and drop off the power steer box and will likely buy the triplex for his bus. I need to load up the old 5 spd and deliver it to friend that came to pick the engine out. He also gets the old pistons from the 300 and the deep oil pan. Not sure what all I will get into today? I may roll new main bearings to get things started so when liners are in I can just slip rods in and torque everything down. I need to borrow a friends BIG torque wrench. Pretty sure I used it years back when I reinstalled rear springs and had new U bolts (before I stretched it and put air ride on it). We're making baby steps......

To take just .003 off now would be a PITA. It was fine before, it will be fine now.

My new friend runs that 237 pulling engine. He knows how to make them run! Even stays together at 3400 rpm! Yikes. I'll never do that but maybe I will try to get a few more HP out of it at some point. He, his dad, and grandfather are big Mack guys and weren't afraid to make power. His Dad's comment to me was "I can make that 300 smoke the tires on that single axle". 😆. Hold the phone..... I need it to last a long time first.

Ya, my thoughts also but figured I would ask those that know these motors. It ran before and all numbers are within .001 from old to new. Few more crush is better then a few less!

Well, did a little cleaning on the bores and counterbores. Checked my depths and I am a bit shallow. .189 and liners are .199 tall and book calls for .0035-.0075 protrusion. I'm at .010. I compared all old liners and they were the same. Unless I get someone to deepen them .003 I will just run it. Until I get the liners in I think I will roll new mains in it and then get rear seal installed. I hope to get someone here soon to pull 237 out so I can work on getting power steering installed. Spoke with Kevin All on a plan. He my buy my Triplex for his bus.

Most DMV employees only know "what they heard" about a law. Especially when it is something like what we do. Few have direct dealings or first hand knowledge. Paperwork is your friend. I hit scales that say "All trucks" and bypass "commercial trucks". Lots of junk vehicles (daily drivers) running around town with historical tags on them. That is what gives the rest a bad name.