Freightrain

Sorry, still have a T bar seat......there is no lowering it.

While at the shop Saturday, friend offered me one of those air splitter shifters. He bought it from Chrome shop mafia some years back for like $600 and never installed it. He says I can have it. He says you won't believe have cheap it is for the money. Just a lever hooked to an old school splitter valve. Real simple. I may or may not use it 🤨

Peterbilt??? Probably 5 ft tall and a glitter ball on the end.....🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Friend gave me number to local place so I will call and just see what I have to work with. I know it get very pricey. Maybe it is just a governor setting? An old BMT member sent me some pump numbers for a 320hp motor so I have something to work with. Time will tell.

So a fancy pump? Mine has a Robert Bosch which I was told is the pump to have

The boss is nuts. He is ALWAYS hot rodn shit. It's always never fast enough.....

I lifted both off the ground and carried them out and out them in my pickup. Then unload at shop. Yowza. Glad I'm still young....🤣 I just spent part of the day out torquing the rods down. Then installed oil pump after doing a quick backwash with fresh oil to make sure it was clean. I got the air compressor installed also and remade the coolant line for it. Just little things to keep picking stuff off the floor. I need to address that rear seal so I can get the pan installed.

15# is about right. I was having power issues years back and found my lift pump was failing. I mounted a fuel pressure gauge out on the air cleaner so I could watch it while driving. It would rise and fall. Replaced pump and was a solid 15#. If you don't have a liquid filled gauge it will flutter due to check valves in the pump. A liquid filled gauge will dampen the bouncing needle some. The lift pump is where the plastic check valves are at that was mentioned to check by Terry.

Thanks for the ideas. I left the heads at machine shop as too freaking heavy to load and unload again. Will gather some tools and try again next weekend.

So with working with injectors, I was poking around my manual I looked at injection pump numbers. Knowing this is set at 295 HP(lowest setting), I wonder what pump number is the 320hp model? It doesn't denote anything like that. Being a gear head I am already thinking of more HP. 😲. If I knew what pump number for 320 hp version I could send pump out and tell said shop to make it to that specification. Maybe. Just dreaming.

The banjo threads are m10x1.0(haven't confirmed pitch but likely but OD is .390). I have everything metric at work because we do a lot of metric) but nothing at home. Might buy a few bolts on way to shop and use their small slide hammer to try to pop them loose.

Tight as prom night... 😆 Rear head looks like they have been out as different shade of color and cleaner looking. Front head they are packed with dirt all the way up to clamp. Ugh. I was hoping to take to machine shop today but may have to wait a week.

Question of the night: Pulling injectors. Mine are "stuck". Tried giving one a smack with a pry bar and no go. Puller the best way? Do you remove the nut and thread puller on that(what thread is it?)or use the banjo threads(which seems like metric m10).

I contemplated hold downs but I can't see the friction of the rings pushing the liners up. Not when it took a hydraulic puller to get them out. They are dry and have .001/.002 shrink. It turns with little effort.

One down.....five to go... Bam! 6 in and still turns freely. No problems, even doing it by myself. I used a double folded piece of cardboard as a "safety* on the journal. Never needed it. They went in smooth and controlled. I could reach under with one hand and control the rod end while tapping piston with deadblow. I just snugged bolts, will torque this weekend and get oil pump installed. Buddy would have helped but space is a premium and having to walk around each other would have made it harder then it needed to be.

No worries, I will make sure it can't fall and damage anything.

The book shows how you twist the rod 45* to clear squirter, then straighten to get to crank journal. Doable. I can see not having the squirter in the way would be easier. I'm not pulling them as I am not working in a chassis so I have all the room to work just standing next to the block. I may check alignment after install to confirm my intuition is correct on my alignment check.

And here I am taking my shot in the dark doing mine..... 😆. Just like rebuilding my Triplex last winter. Had no clue but after figuring it out it turned out fine. Joey, no the shop has no big diesel stuff tools. My friend with the seal installer says it's a PITA and sounds like he doesn't use it. He is very busy and hard to get any time with him. That is why I was just fudging the oiler alignment. I'll buy the tool if I have to. I need to get out to garage and confirm they even sold me the right seal and ring. Mech, I used 1/8" TIG rod that we have tons of at work. We use 1/8" and bigger at work.

Thanks. I didn't bang them around removing pistons or liners so I figured they would be okay, but wanted to confirm someone else didn't screw them up.

Crank has wear ring and I bought a new one as the old one has a groove in it. The instructions mention different depths of seal for dealing with wear. I quest the seal the dealership sold me, even though I asked for wear ring also. Is the seal same between both? Hope so. The bottom end gasket kit came with front and rear seal so I could give the new one back and recoup $120+. I haven't opened the new one yet just in case. The one in the gasket kit I got out and looks identical to what I removed.

All 6 ready.... I played around with oilers. Not sure when I will get alignment tool so I think I will go off law of averages and get them all close to the same. I laid a straight edge across block, used a piece of .125 TIG wire and measured all the locations from top and side of bore. 4 were close to same, two needed some finesse. They are pretty close now within about 1/4" of each other's location. I assume it needs to hit the bottom of the piston(basically missing the rod end). Kinda up in the pocket behind the pin. Using an old piston I just eyed up where it looks best. Again, OCD is making it rocket science and probably was just fine before I moved a couple a little. I need to work on the rear seal install. The book makes it look crazy. Install housing the use installer to press seal in. Why can't I press seal in housing and then install housing? Don't want to screw this up either. Of course I don't have all the "installation tools" they request. I'd like to get pistons dropped in this week/weekend so I can get pan installed.

I spent some time last night discussing the details with my motor guy. He says "run it". So I feel pretty good hearing that. He doesn't do large diesels but does Duramax and Power strokes and it is all the same....just a bit larger. On with assembly.

We have a Sunnen hand hone at work that is basically the same as a stationary block hone. We use it to hone tubes at work. We have 6" long to 5 ft long extensions for it. We run it with a two handed 3/4" Milwaukee drill. I suppose if I covered up the crank well enough I could swipe a little out. But cleaning it back up would be a mess with the crank in it.

The good thing is all the parts are the same. No odd one out that is off the chart. The rings I touched up were likely fine but the feeler gauge was just a touch too snug in my opinion. I didn't have to do all, just a couple.

It is all Mack parts. My concern is the liners being almost -.002 undersize from book spec after installation. Why? Manufacturing? I had .0015-.002 shrink and the book calls for .001 clearance to .-001 shrink. It squeezed them a bit. Then the pistons being +.001/.0015 larger then old pistons. It all adds up to tighter fit. The book has a wide variation, so what is right? That is all I question. I have slipped pistons in the bore(had to to be able to check ring gap). They fit, it isn't that tight. Like I said, I don't want to gall a liner and tear it apart again. This is all just the anal "wannabee" machinist in me. I'm all for hacking shit that doesn't matter. Engine work is a not that.