Freightrain

Oh, oops. I posted the removal of input in the 300 thread. Easy peasy.....

Won't reach far enough. Once I get the template and holes drilled it won't be such an ordeal just shoving it in the hole. If I had to hold it for a long time I would be in trouble. A bit of progress tonight after dinner with Karen. I got ambitious to see if I could get the input out of the transmission. Yup. Thanks all for the push to just try and knock it apart without any fancy tools. I watched a YouTube video of a guy doing it like mentioned. Few smacks with a hammer and it all popped apart. Worse part was getting snap ring off the front. Had to mangle it but a new one comes in the kit. Googled kits and found local Pete dealer has Eaton kit for $260. I will be getting that tomorrow after work. Pt 2468 has everything and more then I need. https://ohiopeterbilt.com/products/fuller-kit-clutch-install Question for the masses: The plastic 3/16" fuel return line. Mack part only? It is reinforced plastic but only slips on fittings, no ferrel or clamps. Mine is pretty rough and needs replaced. I did get the crank hub installed the other night and balancer is on. Just need bigger torque wrench to get to 300ft/lb. Buddies only goes 250#.

Gravel drive so no crane out there either. Going to have to man handle it.

I have no room for a crane around my truck.... The stall is only as big as the truck.

No big updates this week. Some painting of parts, made a few new small #4 lines for oil and coolant. My reman steering box showed up yesterday. Jeez that thing is HEAVY!! Kevin All is sending me a care package with template to drill frame for new box. That along with Jake pieces for Tip turbine. I did install the starter last night so it is ready to spin up. A friend gave me 10 gal of Cat oil(says better then Rotella for zinc) that I will be using. I need to get twin filter housing off the 237 before I can prime it up. I did get the race car all back together also. Trans back in, oil changed and primed up. Ready for another season after I donate bit of welding on the back end. Seems all the wheel stands have been working on the ladder bar front cross member and I saw a couple small cracks at a couple joints. Not uncommon actually but it has been a few years since I needed to address it. I also have set up my friend to use his service truck to do my install. Told him by end of March I hope to be ready to set it in the chassis. I need to start collecting material to build a custom lift cradle.

Ya, well there's your problem. Giving a damn about your companies property. So few, so far apart. I deal with that shit at my shop. I get in any vehicle and it looks like a 3 yr lived in it for a week. I have spent more of my own money on car washes then any have spent on their own vehicle since they were born. It's call Pride.

It gets the bearing out of the way so you can wiggle the input shaft out. I've watched YouTube videos of that process. For the money I may just swap the bearing and input shaft just so they are new. Like you say, it's right here in front of me.

At this point $70 Amazon pricing isn't bad. Lord knows I have wasted more on less.

The gasket is new, so likely wouldn't hurt it getting it back apart. Now I know how to get oil halo out. The kits I found have a gasket included. Not bad $220 for everything. If it is the right kit. I looked up Eaton website and this is what it called for a 18912a. https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/rt-series-eaton-fuller-transmission-clutch-install-kit-for-2-input-replaces-part-k-2468/

Double clutching? WTH is that.... 😆 I'm either starting out or not near the clutch pedal.

The splines are worn a bit. It takes "special" tools to replace it or I would get one. Or I will have to buy more $400 tools for one time use...🤦

Ok, my transmission didn't have a clutch brake on it because it was from a stationary powerplant and didn't get shifted. Are the brakes pretty generic as for fitment? As long as it is for a 2" shaft it will be okay? I know my input has a groove for the brake to engage.

My 673 didn't have any hole to bleed with. I just filled it and ran it for the last 25 yrs. I almost put my 673 housing on but waited too long to research what those pipes were for. It's on there, I will leave it. I know there is a small #4 line coming off the block behind WP housing and goes to coolant filter. I wonder if that is the bleed for this? Why didn't 673 ever have a bleed?

The radiator is taller then that fitting. The thermostat mounts in the front of the air cooler housing and goes up to radiator. See below. The upper hose is way taller.

More progress this afternoon: Heads torqued, valve train sitting on there waiting to be torqued. I loosened all the adjusters about a turn just so nothing would happen to touch when I start to roll it around. It shouldn't be too far out but remember : Safety THIRD! 😂 Exhaust manifold snugged on Tomorrow will be torquing things and adjusting valves. I found some HPC reinforced silicone plugs for the two water fittings. Same basic stuff I am using for other couplings. I tried to get dual filter housing off 237. The intake is in the freaking way! I need to fabri-cobble a socket/wrench to get the center bolt out so I don't have to remove manifold. Even 1/4" drive is too tall. Box wrench won't fit in the recess. F-me. In all, glad to see this coming together this far. I can see in another week, I could fire it up. I have my old extra radiator like I used when I ran it last summer in the driveway for about 45 minutes. Since it is on metal legs I feel a bit more secure then when it was just sitting on wood blocks wobbling around.

SUCCESS! 3/4" hole drill, turned 1/4 turn at a time by hand with vise grips got them to pop loose. No damage to head as it didn't have to cut through. You could feel it POP loose and spin with no resistance after awhile. Now onto putting heads on. I washed up the intercooler housing this morning at the shop so it is ready to put in once I torque the heads. Then exhaust manifold once I get studs reinstalled into heads.

Ok, found the water diagram. Geoff you are right, I had it backwards. Picked up my injectors. They slip right into the sleeves so no other work needs done there. I dug out my fresh jug of Tin Man in a can 😆. As soon as I get those two last copper gasket out I can continue with install. I also looked through my pictures from getting engine home and realize those two big fittings aren't used. I think maybe at one time it was set up for water cooled intercooler. The pictures show those were capped off when I brought the engine home. The upper water pump and the other large one in the oil cooler. The elbow: So, no worries there. Just need to make caps for them. I also see the heater core had been bypassed in the pictures when it was in the truck but I know where they go. All is well.

237 was from late 60s firetruck supposedly. It had shutoff. This 300 came from late 70s R model and has shutoff. Factory? Or something someone put on? The water pump housing on 237 came from my 673. The housing on this motor was the original and has stand pipe instead of nipple down by the oil cooler. I actually installed a shut off valve from a 70s Ford truck and have a choke cable running up to dash so I can adjust heat while driving.

But, thinking more about it, the suction side is at about 9 o'clock(draws from front of block). The fitting is at 12, so it that still suction? As the output is at about 4 o'clock as it goes into the oil cooler and then out to lower radiator hose.

That is kinda why I am puzzled. Both my 237 and this 300 have a shut off valve in the rear water manifold where a hose connects. But both have different fittings at the pump end. I was looking at engine and trying to determine water flow directions. Water should come from bottom of block and up per say and out at thermostat at front of engine. So the water at rear manifold is "hot" and returning to radiator. Thus it is going TO the heater core. Then the line at the pump is the heater "return" and needs to be on the suction side of pump.

I'll run the new nipple. I hate rubber plugs, that is failure waiting to happen. I will remove the lower nipple and put the plug back in. Simple.

Progress.... I put the "newer" valve spring on #5 intake, set head on and just snugged the bolts. Will torque after front head is installed. I received my reman 673 water pump and got it bolted on, along with torquing the oil filter housing once everything was lined up. I got the fan hub slipped on and nut tightened down. You can tell this is "new" as the bearings and seal make it snug to turn. Unlike my original one from who knows when?? My injectors are ready to pick up. They had to dig into their cores for a few parts to get them up to spec. I get them Thursday night. About $650 total. I still am working on getting copper seals out of front head. My round file isn't large enough to grab the copper. Will continue to tinker with that situation. I do need to come up with a plug for the puff limiter in the front of the pump. Limiter was broken off when I got motor. A question I will ask at pump shop. I did start to get the gold paint put on. Just quick coating over most of bottom end. Will need a couple more cans to actually finish it but first coat will be set. I need to determine what that hose is sticking out of top of water pump housing. My 673 didn't have that. Not sure if that heater connection? Mine has nipple that I put into new pump down by oil cooler neck. I can always swap it back for the plug that was in that hole. I think that pipe just had a cut off black hose and assume it might be heater. I know this 300 motor had water shut off on rear water manifold just like my 673/237. The 300 pump didn't have a hole down there by oil cooler like 673 pump. I did order new lock tabs for exhaust bolts. No sense in using old rusty ones. Speedi sleeve should be here Thursday for crank hub.

I may look at work and see if there is something useable.

I used a stiff oil galley brush to clean up the bores. Not perfect but pretty clean. I will test fit injectors when I get them back.