Freightrain

Likely a 392. Yowza, I bet that is THIRSTY!!!! My 345 in my '72 pickup was bad enough, can't imagine with that truck.

Friend had one with a NTC in it. Was an old ANR truck, with the red/blue stripe through the middle. Short single axle, he put a dump bed on it.

http://www.firestoneracing.com/articles/indynews/2017/2/02-20-Penske-Blue-Hilton

Wow...wonder what it has for power? Gaspot(392 or maybe a V6) or Diesel? I think they offered diesels in those but it would be a small one, cummins? I like how they are restoring all these old transporters. Like the drag teams versions too. Love to have something like that for my rig, but I'd miss my living quarters.

Coming together pretty nice.

Going on a week, still 80# in it. I looked at my valve and it is a bolt on style only. I can't use it on a threaded fitting style tank. I thought the valve was screwed onto the mount. Nope, one piece.

Welcome to the forums. This gets hashed out regularly with individuals trying to use "antique" equipment and not have to jump through the hoops of what it takes "commercially". Is this going to be "business" equipment like making money kind of thing? Or going to shows with your toys?

No, both mine are just metal tanks. Nothing inside. The flange just makes for a nice sealing surface and a solid mount for the valve. It's a four bolt pattern with split collar, typically I've seen for hydraulic hoses.

My new doors have a very noticeable dimple, like Willies. That is why I was asking what they used from the factory. It would take a decent primer coat to fill them level. I agree on the Fluid film. Keeps moisture from tearing into the seams. I do my daily drivers twice a year with Fluid film.

Well mine comes in about 26", using a level across the top and measuring down to the floor. So yours would fit my brackets. I forgot to look at my control valve and if I could convert it to thread on. I'll check that this weekend. BTW, still at 80# today.

I'll check mine tonight and see what the actual diameter is. I see the one has a threaded bung? Is that air to the solenoid/starter? Mine has a bolt on flange fitting. Maybe that is how they do the aluminum tanks?

3 days and still holding 80#.

Hmmm, I've got a set of factory bare NOS door shells. I have wondered what they filled the spot welds with? Just paint? Or some kind of filler? I've never got them painted and put on my truck, yet. Too nice actually for my rust bucket. I have one nice extra passenger door that I was going to strip and use instead at some point.

So far this morning, still has 80# in it. Didn't drop overnight, I'm leaving it til the weekend. Looks like a keeper. I'd really like an alum tank, but getting it to Ohio? I wonder if the OD is the same as my steel tank, so it would work in my brackets? Al: It won't be polished like that per say(until I get it-they don't offer polishing on sq tanks), but I gave them a full drawing of my stock tank and they are going off it. Their picture on the website was a near perfect match. I wanted round tanks, like a B tank, but they don't offer a step in it like original. I was going to fudge it with a smaller tank and use std strap steps like I've seen on a few B models. Looks okay. Then I started to add up the price of everything and I decided to stay with square tanks. I got some money burning a hole in my pocket, just not THAT much! BTW, my steel tanks are pretty bad shape. The drivers side is leaking again, I've patched them both up a few times in the last 15 yrs. It's time to upgrade. I asked them if they would make the main body out of diamond plate so it would match my genset box and rear fenders. They said they couldn't do it. I thought one of the old High Point trucks had diamond plate tanks on it and it looked nice.

Well, I took the control valve off the orange tank and installed it on the other tank. I installed a pressure gauge in one of the other fittings in the tank. I filled it up to about 80# of pressure and marked the gauge with a sharpie. We will see if tomorrow where the pressure is. I did not plug the inlet side of the valve, I'm relying solely on the check valve to see if it is up to snuff.

The orange tank is about 15 yrs old. I'm not using that one. Glenn, that was my thought. I need to make a plate with a hook to be able to powder coat it anyway, so I was going to seal it and test it.

Well, parts are starting to accumulate. I made a trip Sunday morning and picked this up: Complete take off from a late model truck(likely a CCX truck from the color). I have a tank already, but needed the mounts, so Bubba gave me a whole set up this time. Includes valve and glad hand hook up to charge it. I got it stripped apart and will have the mounts sandblasted and powder coated black. The straps will be silver. I'm going to use the other tank as it is in slightly better shape. The tank will be coated silver to match my new aluminum fuel tanks.

WOT had some michigan special pictures a few months ago. A crackerbox with 13 axles. Likely more noise then speed!

How did we EVER move so much weight with so LITTLE power?? They can't do it without 600 hp today.

Dogbilt?

They did mine for $300. Surfaced, new lining on the disc. Shipping extra(this stuff is HEAVY). Like 3 day turnaround. This of course was a single disc. No one around here deals with this old stuff anymore. Someone here posted this place and I called them. Nice people.

I wish my B model cab was squared off! I'm liking that pleated material. My old cardboard headliner is in such sad shape I don't think I could get it all stuck back together to cover it with that pleated material? If I had more room to work I might be able to "form" some new cardboard and put material on it and do it in sections of sort.

Wonder if the bearing issues was from how bad you lugged it around at low rpm?

DW Clutch did a great job rebuilding mine. DWClutch.com

I don't even know what model I have. Got it the same time I got my starter and batteries. One wire unit, works fine. I reused the existing bracket, just spaced the alternator to line up and re engineered the slide bracket for adjustment. Pretty simple. Then all you have to do is switch the wires on the back of the AMP meter.