Freightrain

I typically don't like political arguments, but I'll add my .02. My sister was HR over the FORD Romeo, Michigan engine plant. Let me tell you some stories about "UNION" workers. I saw the large group of "workers" that are banished to sit in the cafeteria all day and watch tv. Why? Well, all they do is screw up at any work station and since the UNION won't allow them to be fired(because of all the political correct BS), they must keep them employed. It's cheaper to just pay them to sit and watch TV then go through the litigation to get rid of them. With pay and benefits they are making $50/hr? More? Way too much to sit and watch TV all day. Why do cars cost $50K? Ya, figure it out. At what point does a line worker that bolts a seat down or push a broom need to make $50/hour? I used to pickup at Fisher Guide(GM) plant in Indiana back in late 80's. Walk into the shipping area to find 20+ guys reading papers and drinking coffee. I needed loaded, they argue who is "next" to work. One guy grabs a tow motor and loads me. Ya, tell me again why cars are $50K? Heaven hell if someone drops something on the floor you can't just pick it up. You have to get a "maintenance guy" to do it. Why? Cause that is "his job" and if you pick up that paper you are taking "his work" away from him. Oh Christ, really? My work is NON union. If we had been, we would have never survived the times. If the boss asks us to work over, we do it. We arranged work schedules to meet deadlines and ship dates. You couldn't say "well it is time for union break" and sit down for 1/2 hour. You work til the job is done, then relax. I do 5 people jobs(or more), I do whatever is needed to make the company successful. Why? Cause that is my nature. I'm not a burden, I'm what makes our company great. Unions had their times. Now it is bleeding companies dry.

Well, I stopped by Mansfield yesterday on my way home from Columbus and picked up my latest acquisition: 60 gal air start tank and TWO starters. The starters came from some late model Detroits, but what the heck I'll take them. He needs to dig up the tank brackets and the air lines/control valves which are at another location. The tank is pretty decent, still needs a blasting and painting before installing. He wanted the stuff to go to a good home and he knew me from our big Ashland truck show. Want to throw out a THANKS to Bubba Davis, of Bubba's Crap and Scrap/Towing. If you are ever in Ohio and need a wrecker give a shout out to: BUBBA'S CRAP & SCRAP 345 Empire Road Mansfield, OH 44906 419-631-5455

I measured up some tanks from a Sterling at Adelman yard last summer. They would be about the right length, but after I got home and started measuring I didn't like how low they hung. They don't look bad on the Sterling, as the cabs are really high and the tanks are mounted at or above the top of frame rail. With B cab hanging so low I would have to drop the tank down and I started to wonder what it would look like being so low. I'll have to post the pics from my phone as I don't think I put them on my computer.

I use FluidFilm on my daily driver. Keeps the rot out things here in the rusty NE Ohio weather.

I haven't priced new 50 gal tanks from Watts. I was really hoping to put round alum tanks on the truck. I suppose if I could get them to move the filler and sending unit to one end I could have my buddy cut and put a step into it. If I recall from the call, they want $600 for a 24" dia x 34" long. I remember Alumitank, but figured since Cleveland is only an hour north of me I could just get them instead of shipping them. I measured up some late model tanks but they are all 26" or larger and I think they are too big and will hang down too low for my taste. The stock round tank is what I want to keep some ground clearance. I may just have my tanks blasted and just paint them again. Make some new stainless straps to dress it up a little. I'm just tired of the crusty old tanks I have, though I spray bombed them 14 yrs ago, they are looking a bit rough. Plus the drivers tank needs some patching(again).

Well, just had an interesting conversation with the salesman from Cleveland Tank. Seems you can not order anything "custom" beyond moving a fitting or filler cap. They can not alter the size or install a step into a tank without getting DOT to certify it. Nice. Guess that really throws a monkey wrench in my plans this winter for putting new tanks on the truck. They offer square tanks with steps, but they are not the correct size for my truck and they can not adjust it, nadda, no how. You can't have them put a step in a round tank, again, DOT won't allow the change. On to plan B........or was it C?

I didn't think Ford would allow a blade on a diesel? It's too heavy with diesel engine is what I remember. Not that you couldn't put it on but Ford would not warranty anything from it. After 14 yrs I'm sure it is not a concern.

My 1972 Cub Cadet 149 hard at work. Usually not a lot of snow around here, but they say "this year"..........

Why is it for some reason the media ALWAYS shows this area as a complete madhouse? Never like this? Hmmmmm.

They offer a signal generator to put in line with your speedo cable. Typically it screws onto transmission, then cable attaches to it. It has two wires that you connect to cruise unit.

Frames? I like them done like factory with everything painted, but again I like when wires and hoses are contrasting colors. I guess it depends on how the rest of the vehicle is done.

Got an email back, yes I can cut the casing to fit. Wanted their blessing just in case I happen to return for warranty and they complain because I cut it. I have a drawing for a box for the shifter, just need some thinner material as I don't have anything lighter then 16 ga at home. Some 20 ga would likely work much easier to bend into such a small box. It's more decorative then structural.

^^Yes, just noticed that(something looked strange, but couldn't put my finger on it). I know I can't read my speedo when I'm driving without having to lean forward to see it. I'm plenty tall, but the wheel center is in the way. I know they put the tach up top as that is the one you need the most.

Ya, the zip ties are fine for hidden areas and wires, but some simple rubber insulated clamps would be some much more professional looking.

He's missing the hinge cover plates!!!! For shame LOL! I'm jealous as heck over that clean interior. To think the day mine would be 1/4 that nice.

Nope, too long for a sleeper cab and doesn't taper out like a sleeper cab.

Did a little investigating with my new upgrade yesterday. Seems the cable is wayyy too long for my application(go figure). Without cutting things I will likely end up mounting it up in the very front corner behind the passenger headlight bucket on the frame. That will give me the length I need to loop the cable down the inner fender and around to the throttle linkage. I send an email to them asking about the strength of the stepper motor as my return spring is pretty stout and worried about the ability for it to pull it and not damage it. When I receive a reply I'm going to ask them about changing the length of the cable. Do I have to return it to them or do it myself? The clutch switch I'm concerned about. It does not appear to be "weather resistant" and with having to mount it under the cab(behind the drivers tire), I'm worried that even with just the rain I might drive in will it survive? I'm going to look at purchasing a sealed switch just for longevity sake. With the unit mounted so far forward all the wiring is no where long enough on anything so I'll be soldering extensions. It does come with weather pak style plugs on the unit itself. They offer a shifter mounted control box but I didn't want to ask what that costs so I am making my own little box to mount on the compound lever for my two switches. That will be more driver accessible friendly then mounted on the dash(which is too far to reach for my driving comfort). The tale continues................

Sadly it takes that much to get it to that point. Just have to find someone that wants to pay it.

Except fresh paint!!

Lucky mine is a fair weather truck so salt isn't an issue, but I can see your point if you did use it on a daily driver. My first question is how "heavy" of a return spring can I leave on my pump? I've got a pretty stiff one right now and not sure how strong that stepper motor is for torque? Might have to change the spring to a bit softer version? I know they did offer a shifter mounted unit with a dial on it for speed changes. I didn't ask about it but I think I'm going to make my own little box and mount the two switches to the compound shifter handle. That would keep them in easy reach as that is the shifter next to my leg and the most common to have to downshift first if need be on a hill. Grab the handle and flick the switch with my finger..........sounds like a plan. I have a small metal brake at work so making the box should be easy enough.

I bought myself an early christmas present. I have heard about this from other places and thought i would give it a try. Ordered it and it showed up a couple days later. Seems pretty simple to install, even easier since I already have an electronic speedo for a signal. Not sure how quick I will get it installed but will update as soon as I can.

^^Yup, my thought too. And why I got spoke hubs for the rear when I stretched mine. Didn't want the mismatch look. I know they used to run budd on the front, spoke on the rear. Not the other way around.

Ya, kinda wondered about all the "deck plate". Just decoration or is it to cover up a bunch of welding?

Wow..that's long. Wonder if that is original frame length?

If the metal is scorched then it will take lots of sanding to get it back down to a surface that can be polished. I've used Wenol on my stuff and it does okay to bring back some luster. Today there are LOTS of products on the market.