Freightrain

Well Im in Meixco this week for work so maybe this weekend I can get back at it. I head home tomorrow. Not many Macks down here. Mostly Freightliners.

Ya, one foot sleeve isn't much. Didn't realize you were that constrained with space between crossmembers. If you didn't want to uses spacers, then you could narrow the crossmember? I've seen where guys have cut out of the middle and welded them back together(stamped steel crossmember). I could see them put on a mill and run a 1/2"-5/8" end mill(whatever it took for twice the frame rail thickness) to divide them. Bevel the ends and clamp to a table and weld back together. Grind it and Presto a custom crossmember that would allow a sleeve to fit! Depends on how sneaky you want to get to save the big cost of complete new rails.

Vlad, How about a sleeve on the inside of frame rail to help support the two halves? Bolt it in between two crossmembers, that way the inner rail butts up against the crossmembers and is less noticeable with the bunk over top of it.

Ummmm, well, you're not going to be able to get across ANY body of water with a Porsche, so I suggest something a bit more utilitarian..... The final production design was perfected by a few engineers at Yellow Truck & Coach in Pontiac, Michigan. The vehicle was built by Yellow Truck and Coach Co.(GMC Truck and Coach Div. after 1943) at their Pontiac West Assembly Plant and Chevrolet Div. of General Motors Corp. at their St. Louis Truck Assembly Plant. 21,147 were manufactured before production ended in 1945.[6] So it was UNION built.

I had plenty of time to tinker with the holiday off. Now back to the rat race. Maybe next weekend? or the one after.

I wonder if it has to do with downloading them to the site. I typically use Photobucket to link pictures. That might be the problem. You only have so much server space PER person. Run that out and you can't download anymore. Just another reason to use a hosting site.

Ya, good point. I was just listening to the servo motor and it ran for 1+ second. Maybe with some tension it will snap back quicker? Guess I'll find out.

I upload right from my phone(motorola razr). I use the "choose file" link below and they upload quickly. Don't know about the fancier new smart phones? Maybe they have better cameras and take more file space? I've never downloaded the tapatalk feature. I typically don't use my phone to post, but does make it easier when I want to post a quick picture as I don't have to download to photobucket first.

By the end of the evening last night I had it "functioning". I was able to get it to wind the cable up and return back by working the switches on the shifter. My big concern was cable travel. It only has 2" of travel. The stuff they give you to mount to most late model pumps makes it seem it has way more then that. I suppose the new pumps don't travel as far as mine does to get WOT. I was expecting to have to make a long arm to use most of the cable travel(what they recommend), but after getting it to function I was able to measure and realize it will be tight to get WOT with only 2" of travel. Measuring right at the pedal arm it is 2" for WOT. I'll be having to fab up something so the cable attaches at the same spot. I'm going to skip mounting the clutch pedal switch. It looks to be a PITA to mount and adjust since it is under the floor, behind the fender and above my fuel tank. Forget it. I will just have to use the switch on the shifter to shut if off BEFORE pushing the clutch. After seeing it in action, it is not a quick return to idle anyhow so if you did push the clutch it would not drop to idle quickly like a newer car does. By the looks it would take 1-2 seconds to drop to idle. After trying to get it to work I realized you have to ground that wire, you can't just leave it unhooked. Once I grounded it to the frame, the system functioned.

Small steps. Unit mounted on frame. Making bracket for cable to mount to compessor. Made a small box for switches to mount on compound shifter for "easy reach" while driving. Few more wires to go.

Starters....

I typically don't like political arguments, but I'll add my .02. My sister was HR over the FORD Romeo, Michigan engine plant. Let me tell you some stories about "UNION" workers. I saw the large group of "workers" that are banished to sit in the cafeteria all day and watch tv. Why? Well, all they do is screw up at any work station and since the UNION won't allow them to be fired(because of all the political correct BS), they must keep them employed. It's cheaper to just pay them to sit and watch TV then go through the litigation to get rid of them. With pay and benefits they are making $50/hr? More? Way too much to sit and watch TV all day. Why do cars cost $50K? Ya, figure it out. At what point does a line worker that bolts a seat down or push a broom need to make $50/hour? I used to pickup at Fisher Guide(GM) plant in Indiana back in late 80's. Walk into the shipping area to find 20+ guys reading papers and drinking coffee. I needed loaded, they argue who is "next" to work. One guy grabs a tow motor and loads me. Ya, tell me again why cars are $50K? Heaven hell if someone drops something on the floor you can't just pick it up. You have to get a "maintenance guy" to do it. Why? Cause that is "his job" and if you pick up that paper you are taking "his work" away from him. Oh Christ, really? My work is NON union. If we had been, we would have never survived the times. If the boss asks us to work over, we do it. We arranged work schedules to meet deadlines and ship dates. You couldn't say "well it is time for union break" and sit down for 1/2 hour. You work til the job is done, then relax. I do 5 people jobs(or more), I do whatever is needed to make the company successful. Why? Cause that is my nature. I'm not a burden, I'm what makes our company great. Unions had their times. Now it is bleeding companies dry.

Well, I stopped by Mansfield yesterday on my way home from Columbus and picked up my latest acquisition: 60 gal air start tank and TWO starters. The starters came from some late model Detroits, but what the heck I'll take them. He needs to dig up the tank brackets and the air lines/control valves which are at another location. The tank is pretty decent, still needs a blasting and painting before installing. He wanted the stuff to go to a good home and he knew me from our big Ashland truck show. Want to throw out a THANKS to Bubba Davis, of Bubba's Crap and Scrap/Towing. If you are ever in Ohio and need a wrecker give a shout out to: BUBBA'S CRAP & SCRAP 345 Empire Road Mansfield, OH 44906 419-631-5455

I measured up some tanks from a Sterling at Adelman yard last summer. They would be about the right length, but after I got home and started measuring I didn't like how low they hung. They don't look bad on the Sterling, as the cabs are really high and the tanks are mounted at or above the top of frame rail. With B cab hanging so low I would have to drop the tank down and I started to wonder what it would look like being so low. I'll have to post the pics from my phone as I don't think I put them on my computer.

I use FluidFilm on my daily driver. Keeps the rot out things here in the rusty NE Ohio weather.

I haven't priced new 50 gal tanks from Watts. I was really hoping to put round alum tanks on the truck. I suppose if I could get them to move the filler and sending unit to one end I could have my buddy cut and put a step into it. If I recall from the call, they want $600 for a 24" dia x 34" long. I remember Alumitank, but figured since Cleveland is only an hour north of me I could just get them instead of shipping them. I measured up some late model tanks but they are all 26" or larger and I think they are too big and will hang down too low for my taste. The stock round tank is what I want to keep some ground clearance. I may just have my tanks blasted and just paint them again. Make some new stainless straps to dress it up a little. I'm just tired of the crusty old tanks I have, though I spray bombed them 14 yrs ago, they are looking a bit rough. Plus the drivers tank needs some patching(again).

Well, just had an interesting conversation with the salesman from Cleveland Tank. Seems you can not order anything "custom" beyond moving a fitting or filler cap. They can not alter the size or install a step into a tank without getting DOT to certify it. Nice. Guess that really throws a monkey wrench in my plans this winter for putting new tanks on the truck. They offer square tanks with steps, but they are not the correct size for my truck and they can not adjust it, nadda, no how. You can't have them put a step in a round tank, again, DOT won't allow the change. On to plan B........or was it C?

I didn't think Ford would allow a blade on a diesel? It's too heavy with diesel engine is what I remember. Not that you couldn't put it on but Ford would not warranty anything from it. After 14 yrs I'm sure it is not a concern.

My 1972 Cub Cadet 149 hard at work. Usually not a lot of snow around here, but they say "this year"..........

Why is it for some reason the media ALWAYS shows this area as a complete madhouse? Never like this? Hmmmmm.

They offer a signal generator to put in line with your speedo cable. Typically it screws onto transmission, then cable attaches to it. It has two wires that you connect to cruise unit.

Frames? I like them done like factory with everything painted, but again I like when wires and hoses are contrasting colors. I guess it depends on how the rest of the vehicle is done.

Got an email back, yes I can cut the casing to fit. Wanted their blessing just in case I happen to return for warranty and they complain because I cut it. I have a drawing for a box for the shifter, just need some thinner material as I don't have anything lighter then 16 ga at home. Some 20 ga would likely work much easier to bend into such a small box. It's more decorative then structural.

^^Yes, just noticed that(something looked strange, but couldn't put my finger on it). I know I can't read my speedo when I'm driving without having to lean forward to see it. I'm plenty tall, but the wheel center is in the way. I know they put the tach up top as that is the one you need the most.

Ya, the zip ties are fine for hidden areas and wires, but some simple rubber insulated clamps would be some much more professional looking.