Freightrain

Holey crapola. What a deal. Sometimes you are at the right spot at the right time. Nice job!

Well it's all there, just coming apart. I guess a good shop could resurrect it and make a pattern to something else and cover it? Not sure I would try to reuse it and cover it.

AH, I see. Interesting.

Mine was replaced some time in it's life. The threads in the seams are coming loose and it is falling on my head. The cardboard is also brittle.

Anyone know someone that has the pattern for a black pleated/diamond headliner for B model cab? My original headliner is falling apart at the seams, literally and I don't want the beige anymore. I want to make matching door panels.

Twin snorkel air cleaner? Would think that would be tip turbine?

Nice! What for powerplant? 285/300?

Great work. I get SOOO jealous when I see shiny new parts going together!!

This is my typical day at work> Making drawings of broken parts so we can make them new. Nothing that unique about that casting that shouldn't take but a few minutes with a set of calipers to make a drawing. I hope you get it taken care of.

So does anyone know the real part number for a fuel pump? Should I just hit the dealer with my IJ pump number and go from there? Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/E6-Fuel-Supply-Pump-2-Valve-PAI-P-N-ESP-3598-Ref-Mack-314GC227-Bosch-0440008015-/262616166868?hash=item3d2524b1d4:g:3N8AAOSwEK9T37NI&vxp=mtr Mine has the old school hand pump on it and looks more like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mack-E6-Fuel-Supply-Pump-w-Primer-PAI-EPA-3587-Ref-319GC110-Ambac-SPA22B6363A-/252530193697?hash=item3acbf8f521:g:s4IAAOSwZjJU9M2T&vxp=mtr

LOL!!! You're leaving yourself WIDE open to a real smart alec comment on that statement!!!!! My friend had a FL120 toter and don't recall seeing a shut off? Maybe I never looked hard enough.

I have an old version of the Cole Hearse shut off. I've never used it as the connection points are tiny and my big cable ends would never fit it. Like I said, in all the years I've never put a charger on mine for the winter and the only time I've unhooked the batteries was when I lengthened the frame and had the battery box off the truck. I used to have 4 batteries, but only run 2 now with no issue. Mine does sit inside a lightly heated garage all winter though.

Two screws and the plates move from vehicle to vehicle pretty easily............LOL!

Yup, he never opened the hood. I don't recall exactly what all he does with the truck but I know he seems to get around with it. I was parked directly to the left of him, as he was in the isle and I was in the grass on the corner next to the ATHS forum tent with Eddy Lucast and Peter J Crook.

I used POR 15 on my new frame section. I had it shot blasted to clean, bare metal by a local company(thus the wheels and trailer hitch). I then slopped it on with a brush. I didn't cover it with anything so it is faded now. BUT, you can't chip it with a sledgehammer. Granted it doesn't see winter, but you do have to prep the metal properly for it to bite into. Few years back I had an Escort wagon for a daily driver. It had a few surface scratches and they would rust. I would sand it down and smear a bit of POR 15 on it. Yup, few months later it would peel off like an onion skin. It is all in the prep work.

Yup, that's it.

I've survived 14 yrs with no shut off or maintainer on my B. Don't know how? Ya, the typical battery shut off switch would likely do the trick. I would suggest getting the largest amp rated version you could find. These are typically for only one battery and once you get 3-4 batteries the current draw could burn it up over time if the contacts aren't large enough to carry it. Maybe get a pair of switches and break the batteries up into pairs? The maintainer? Any 1-2 amp trickle charger would work, but you would have to watch as if you have one bad battery in the bunch it will never charge all of them. I run one on my pair of deep cycles in my race trailer. Been near 20 yrs without issue. Do have to keep an eye on them as occasionally one battery might get low and it will drag the other one down. I separate them, charge them each up and then hook them back together. How I found out was the "charge" light was never coming on like it use to. Once I charged both up, the "charge" light comes on after a few hours of being plugged in.

Where's the pics of the Red/black LTL from Texas with a 600 KT in it? Smith is the name? Met him at South Bend.

Jack the front end up, grab a tire and see how loose the pins are. Could be just spindle bearings too. Then work your way back to the steering box. I recommend a block of wood and long bar to pry up/test the tie rod ends. Don't try it with just your hands like a car, you won't move it enough. Ask me how I found that one out?

Well, a little update from my trip today. Just got in, and not quite ready to lay down. First, it ran like a TOP. Perfect. It actually has a bit more UMPH then it did. I noticed about 1# more of boost(about 16) and it definitely has more pull on the hills it basically never lost speed on any hill and it used to as I made this trip last July. It held 10# fuel pressure minimum, 1800 rpm, 16# boost, flat out in OD on a grade. Like typically I usually think as long as it has fuel pressure remaining, then it can't use anymore anyway? Now, I've done three things to it this past week. I put 2 new filters on it(old, but still pretty clean inside). Next I replaced the original fuel pump with the one off my 673. It made the same 15# at idle and running down the road for the most part other then max load as I mentioned above. I also filled the tanks before I left. I had thoughts that maybe I have a draw tube issue(cracked) and if it gets down to 1/2 tank or just above it was drawing air and causing the lack of power. Since I did all three and it ran perfect I don't really know what fixed it? The original pump was a bit weaker. I just bobtailed it up the street and it dropped to 4# under a quick jab of the throttle under load. So I think the pump was weak and I might look to get a new pump for it. Not sure if those are hens teeth or easy(and cheap)? Not sure about the draw tube in the tank? Could be an issue, I didn't run it down as low on this trip(only 240 round trip) and I only have one more race and not sure if I want to top the tanks off and have to deal with draining them to work on the drivers tank. Have to figure that out in the next couple weeks. I've wanted to replace box these tanks, but just haven't come up with anything I like(price wise). I'm happy with the results, but wish I knew the root cause of the problem. One thing for sure, I HAVE to get that governor issue fixed. What a PITA that was, as it is getting much worse. It really holds RPM when you try to shift and even stop for a light. It sits at 1100rpm and then slowly drops to idle or sometimes I have to smack the pedal and it will drop to idle. Whatever, it has to get fixed. I hope I can find a pump shop that might just fix THAT issue and not charge me $3000 for a full rebuild?

Should the pressure stay at 15# or drop off with acceleration? How low is normal/OK? Lines are all near new so shouldn't have a problem. I pulled vent line off and it is open. Going to top off tanks. Didn't have issues when full. Maybe have issue with suction line in tank?

Well, looking in my book, it says I should have 20# of fuel pressure. So I pulled the pump off my 673 and put it on. Yup, still 15#. Well, going to drive it tomorrow and see what it does under load. I took a quick run up the road bobtail and with a little boost the fuel pressure really falls off, like under 5# or so(hard to read across the cab and out the window as it is mounted to the air cleaner). With the possibility of rain I couldn't strap it to the wipers! Gotta get to the race tomorrow so wish me luck.

Well, I found a 1/4" T that I could thread into the pump, it gave me two ports. One for fuel in and one for gauge. I can use 1/4" plug to seal it off when not needed. I started the truck, it runs at about 15# at idle. Any fluctuation of RPM does not really make it move a lb or so. Good? Bad or Ugly? I tried to remove the check valve. Wow, that's been in there for 40 sum years and wasn't coming off without a fight. I gave up on it for now, will wait to see if anything else comes up before trying to unscrew that from the pump. I pulled two of the check valves from the fuel pump(the top two-easiest to get to). Look okay, springs intact. Surfaces are smooth and flat.

Picked up a gauge at Summit yesterday and a nylon tubing kit to hook it up. Just need to dig through my fittings box to hopefully have enough to attach it? Hope to get into it Friday night, as I have to leave Saturday morning!! Ugh. Got a 2 hr drive, I'm keeping my fingers crossed........

What about an angled pearl handle turned forward? Or just an 45* arm to put the red ball on. That might move it forward enough to give your elbow some room.