Freightrain

Yup, the two nuts hold the arm that controls fuel. Moving one then tighten the other back up against arm. I really cranked mine up about 14 yrs ago. Ran really well, got HORRIBLE mileage. I turned it back down and doubled the mileage(back to 8 mpg).

I have a couple others but never got them downloaded.

Unlike a typical car/pickup tie rod end, they use different thread pitches to allow lengthening/shortening the rod by just twisting it. Unlike a car where they are left and right handed. Strange, but it works. I went through this about 5 yrs ago with my truck. Lucky mine are still available, but it is the larger 517 axle.

Ya, I had ear plugs in the truck 14 yr ago. Sadly the noise was worse with the stock muffler on it. It would just drone you to death on the highway. I'm just glad I got the Dynamat put on the firewall, that help tremendously. That and the turbo taking the bark out of the exhaust. It was always louder with the windows down, but not anymore. The guys I see with those big 8" pipes just roaring down the highway....Ugh, ya that is just too much bellow for me. I like to hear it, but not like that. My 4" pipes are just perfect.

Sure it is cleaner air overall, but I agree with the volume being drawn by the engine I bet it is quite the vacuum inside that air intake tube. Here is a little inside video from the dinner cruise during out show last weekend. Using my sound meter I get a steady 92 db inside the cab with either the windows open or closed. Quite a bit lower then the old motor. I'm pretty sure it was over 100+ db and really bad with the windows down.

My return spring was missing on my throw out arm when I pulled mine apart. I did some measuring and came up with a spring at the local hardware just like the ones for the hood latches. Maybe not the perfect one, but by golly it was better then the complete lack of one. It was actually starting to wear on the TOB levers from the bearing just rattling on against the cast fingers for the last 50 yrs? This is the one inside the bellhousing that pulls the bearing tight against the arm. The latches actually do have a small oil hole in the top end. I think that is where I squirted oil years ago since I didn't have to take them off to pour it with the latch upside down. Though too much oil/grease and it will run down the fender when it gets hot outside.

I know one of the original ones is pretty tight. This rebuilt version is a bit softer. It holds the hood, but not as tight. If you have good ones, I'd soak them in oil to keep the spring from rusting to pieces. I know I did that years ago, but over time and lots of water it gets dry. I tried to pack a bit of grease into it before I welded it together in hopes to keep it lubricated.

Well, got a few trips under the belt. Seems to be running well. I did notice an oil leak, but it's coming from the air compressor inlet. Seems I've got some worn rings/broken rings/etc. My guess is while unloaded it is pumping oil back out the inlet screen and it is running down the outside. Guess I might have to pull the compressor from my 673(as it was rebuild) and switch them over. It makes good air but I don't want to deal with the slobbering. I don't really recall my other motor doing this but it had so many leaks it was hard to tell since everything was damp. This engine had the air inlet running to the air cleaner but I switched it to the little air breather box set up from my old 673. Maybe if I put a tube running up to the air cleaner pipe it will contain the oil? Or it will just make a mess inside my intake pipe?(most likely). I'm still trying to get a road video made, just having a hard time setting it up before I go somewhere.

I suppose you could screw it on? But since you have to weld the body back together it is not that big of deal to put a dot on the top of the washer. That is unless you can get the end of the tube to unscrew?

Very nice work. Here's one for you. My mother is 87 this year. She just took up drawing about 6-8 yrs ago. She is quite impressive and didn't realize she had it in her. She should have started years ago. She started with color but her eyes are getting bad now and had to go to just black/white. She'd done cars, houses, pets, people. It's a good thing as it keeps her active.

Of course.........priorities, priorities..........

We have car cruises coming out the ying yang from May to Oct. Any place you look, even during the week, has some kind of cruise in. I haven't been to one in a very long time, just lost interest in sitting in a parking lot. Heck I hardly even drive the hot rods anymore...........man does that make me old? Or do I just feel old? Ugh. I was at Milan, Michigan last weekend for the Reunion race, our group runs in it.

Now that it has been a few weeks and I've used it, I can feel a slight difference in tension compared to an original. I needed to find a STIFFER spring for the next ones. Likely just a larger wire diameter. I think I used a .047 wire. I felt a .062 but it seemed too stiff. I think it would be a tighter latch and likely use one on the next latch I rebuild. Mike, only problem is we only have weather that is bearable for about 3 months a year....and it ain't around December!!!

Nice. Looks like it can just peg that tach at will without breaking a sweat. Sounds good.

Unfortunately we don't have a TK to have a party at. I can guarantee it won't ever be called Ash-mud-land like some other show I've heard stories about. LOL!!

I didn't change the rubber portion, so mine just slipped on/off real easy like. I was surprised as I've heard they get beat up and loose. I was pleasantly surprised when mine was in nice shape. I just changed the front hub due to the 237 having a different set up then the 673. I had to put my 673 hub/balancer on the 237. I didn't heat the mount, only the hub for the balancer. Like I said, don't over heat it as it could melt the rubber seal/mount after it soaks in. The old manual I have says don't use a torch.

Once again, we have our annual show that weekend. Someday we'll get out to see you guys? http://www.ohvintrkjam.com/

Well, I just had mine apart, I would suggest jacking the motor up and sliding the mount off and repairing it and sliding it back on. For reinstalling the front hub, I just put it in the oven at about 200* or so for about 1/2 hour(it didn't stink up the house at that temperature). It slipped on effortlessly. Don't want it too hot as it will overheat the seal and possibly distort it.

About 1/2+" up from where the pin comes out the bottom. The threaded insert is about that long. Gives you something good to weld into when re assembling it. See 2nd picture from last. They didn't upload in the order I put them. The top picture you can see the lower mount is on backwards compared to the assembled picture below it. I cut the mount and swapped it around once I realized it was backwards. I edited the post to help tell what I did with each part. I originally posted from my phone to allow me quick download of the pictures. I added more text between the pictures to help make it easier to understand what I did.

the spring cost $1.46 and about 1 hour of my time.

Well another 15 years and another latch gave up. No spring pressure left. New latches are square and $70 each. Not what I want to spent or have. After careful consideration I thought I could fix what I have. Sure enough worked! Cut the body apart with thin cutoff wheel at the bottom end. Now they do unscrew but likely never get it apart. I cut it about 1/2" from the end. It came apart and showed how the spring was in pieces. I then ground the head of the pin off so I could get the top off. I then measured the pieces and found something close at the hardware store. I then re assembled it and welded the cap on the pin and then welded the body together. Some paint and you would never know it was apart. I did constantly dunk it in cold water to keep the spring from loosing tension from heat soak(note I figured this out after ruining one spring). Also make sure you assemble the lower portion of latch correctly or you might have to cut and weld it on correctly(ya I found that out the hard way). In all it was easy and cheaper then new. Looks correct too with the round style body. welding the top back on the rod to hold spring: Completed assembly All the pieces cut apart, broken spring included: This is just after I cut the latch apart: This is the dimple you need to grind off to remove the cap on the end of the rod to get spring removed:

Looking good. Don't want to know the stack of receipts for all that. I know it is better then a payment book for a new truck!

Should be 673. Don't know who has it, but it is suppose to be here somewhere in town if someone had some interest and wanted a set of eyes on it.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5592172157.html We have an all original 1951 Mack Tractor.Single axle with a duplex transmission.Will fire and run right now.Runs great.The reason for the stack laying on frame is because we had to dismount it to fit in are basement.Asking $10,500.00 obo. Not mine.

I've seen these but ALWAYS just cringe at the fact that IF something goes awry on the valve and it dumps all the oil out of your motor. Ugh. Granted my RV Onan genset as a similar kind of water spigot valve and it works fine. I've only got one vehicle that gets more then one change a year so I've never bought one. Thought about it, just haven't.