Freightrain

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/pts/5559948383.html 1985 R model Mack cab and hood - $1500 (cambridge,oh) R688ST NO RUST GOOD DOORS GOOD GLASS $1500 OBO Not mine, just on local CL.

My brake control is on the left lower corner of the dash, right by the door. It is an old school valve with chrome handle. Not the later yellow.

Glad I'm not the only one. Just bought a '95 F150 and previous owner put something on the window. Nice, but a PITA with the wipers on. It spatters the rain all over making it even more difficult to see. I'm going to do a little buffing on the paint and get some wax on the truck so I might buff the windshield to get the surface cleaned off.

Superior Spring in Canton, Ohio made new main leaf for my Mack a couple years ago. They didn't offer the right eyelet so they made it for me and reclamped the pack.

I used to have rain x on the windows years ago when the wipers didn't work as well. Though I don't usually worry much as I don't go racing in the rain. Just bad timing and this time I put a dab of silicone on the fitting to keep it from coming loose. It lasted 10+ yrs so I guess I just need to keep an eye on it. I like rain x to a point, but it also makes wipers skip and smear in some situations. Almost better to not use the wipers at all after you put it on.

Well did a little work on the truck tonight. My shutters were not working correctly so I unhooked them. Checked things out and realized I put the air in the outlet side and shutters on the inlet side. Oops, so I swapped lines and we'll she if they work right. They closed, but would not open right(just leaked air). The valve is one way and with air going the wrong way I could see why they would not open. My air wipers also quit an hour from home the other night. I was thinking the worst............but seems it was only the brass plug on the toggle valve. It was loose and leaking air which would not allow it to have enough volume to work. Once I resealed that they are back to working lickety split. All back to good and ready for taking it in another week to the train tour our club set up.

Fred, I just put a sheet of Dynamat across the doghouse area(engine compartment). I had one sheet left over from the pack I bought a few years ago when I did the floor area. It was just enough to do it. Since I still have all my wires/plumbing I didn't want to worry about covering the whole wall. It surely made a difference.

Looks good. I like fabricating, even if I don't have the right tool for the job LOL!!

Just bought this kit for my 237. Felpro kit and felpro valve covers.

I like the long look too. As for racing? Yes they got the race in but I parked the car before eliminations. The traction was so poor that in four passes I never got a full run. Three of them I tried to take out the photographers on the left side and the last pass it tried to change lanes and spin around. I was pissed and put it back in the trailer. The track was too cold no matter what they tried. I had a good time overall talking with everyone. Racing sucked...,they need to get this set up later in the year when it is warmer. The truck performed flawless. Online issue was my wipers took a dump about an hour from home. They would only go one way. Guess I need to check some airlines. They only ran 10 hrs of a 12 hr drive.

Running good. Quick pit stop and 3 hrs to home.

The valve covers should be like any 2 valve motor. 237-285-300? Shouldn't they?

Nothing like a 6 hr drive in the rain! Ugh. Lucky the old air wipers work perfect. Truck ran Flawless! Really happy with the added power especially with trips to the flatlands of PA. Not!

I just built a complete harness for this Willy's. Used an EZ wiring harness. I too put relays on things light headlights so the switch won't see the high draw from the halogen bulbs. The harnesses are typically marked well but the instructions can be vague. Work slow and have a plan and they do work.

Oh ya, wasn't thinking about the short hood and the motor being laid over. Ooops.

Sounds like mine Jim. Made it home under its own power, barely. Hood flew off, only one front brake worked, no floor boards. Ya, real nice truck LOL!!!

Just swapped my motor. Pull the front end off, engine comes out easily. Just have to hold the tailshaft of the transmission as the mount is in the front and that holds that end it up fine. A fellow did a DT466/auto swap a few years ago. It is a small motor, so it should fit in really easy. I'd have to do a search and find the thread where he built the truck. Found the link:

Ya, Adelman's is in my back yard. Matter of fact the previous owner of MY truck currently is the used truck salesman. He sold out the towing business(retired) and just sells trucks to keep busy. I need to take it over and show him. I stopped over last fall to look for alum tanks and saw his car across the street(truck yard) so I went over and talked. I hadn't seen him in a few years.

Well, I kinda wondered about it. Kinda sounds like a V8 in a way. That thump(power pulse) under load, even at 1600 rpm. Just didn't seem to be that bad earlier in the trip. Once the transmission was warm(and loose) it seemed to be more noticeable. I held the shifters and you could seem to feel it in the aux and you could "hear" it like it was knocking the teeth in the transmission as it pulsed. Guess that is the best way I can explain it. I just don't want to spit gears out, though I know I'm not "abusing it". For Mike: Thanks. Here's a car video(been seen before I'm sure). Ron, I kinda thought they still had oil bath in the early days of the 237. My buddy Dan was just concerned that my old metal mesh might break loose and get into the turbo.

If I rotate it and raise it, it would likely fit okay. My air inlet goes through the cab.

Nice! I suppose with some work I could do the same kinda thing. Just need to find a bargain on a housing. I want to keep my riser on the top, as I like that raised option.

Watts has NEW for $525....ouch. Likely the same filter as you have? Just not ready to spend that kind of money on a filter for a rusty ol truck. I hot tanked mine about 12 yrs ago and painted it. Looks nice and I know the inside is perfectly clean. It was mentioned by a friend that I should NOT run an oil bath filter as the wire mesh might get into the turbo.

I'm kinda liking the "longgg" look without the bunk. I'd like it better with tandems out back(even though that is a moot point with what I do with it--I just like the look). Jim, do you still run an oil bath air cleaner on your truck? I'm wanting to get a dry element, but just don't want to spend that much money right now(Watts has them).

Ya, I'm used to that. My g/f thinks we are in a parade any time we go out in one of the "toys". The constant stares, pictures and questions at stoplights.

Well the road trip test went well. Got the race car loaded and hit the highway yesterday. Pulls well. Drives nice, went about 50 miles. Gets about 15# of boost, pyro went to 900* under a pull, temp only gets to 175* or so under load. Typically about 160* cruising along. The only concern is my transmission. I don't lug it below 1600 rpm. It has always been noisy after at trip(rattling), but under load it seems to thump? Don't really feel anything in the shifters, but I don't want to hurt anything worse then it is. We'll see how it does this week on my trip.