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Freightrain

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Freightrain

  1. I crossbolted my own block for my race car on that old mill. Little cranky, bit sloppy, but gets the job done. I've surely done my fair share of "gov'ment jobs" at work. It surely is a perk.
  2. This is me, at work, using our G/L Horizontal mill to open the holes. Since I couldn't get the bolt pattern leveled out easily enough, I used a tight fitting test pin in each hole and lined the chuck up. Then drilled that hole. Moved around the pattern. If I could have set it up a Bridgeport, it would have been easier to spin the wheel around and pick up on two holes to get the zero on X and Y. I was still concerned that the holes would be right. Got it home and bolted up perfect. Holes were still dead on. Sometimes a plan comes together.
  3. Yup. Same problem...one extreme to the other. If the heater had a variable resistor instead of 2 SPD switch.
  4. Had a friend with a car that had rusty water issues. He made a sock filter out of a piece of fine screen in the upper radiator hose. Easy to pull and clean.
  5. I am very familiar with thread serts. I like them better then heli coils. There was no enough meat on flange to do that. I just machined the holes to 3/4". Worked well. I work at a machine shop. I did all my own work. The bolts fit snug in the holes. I don't see any reason it won't work fine in my application.
  6. I should really look to get some for my truck it might take care of some of the drafts.....
  7. Yes. Check your local agent. If you run into problems contact my agent. I've had other people call and get insurance for their trucks through her office. Rachael Chandler-Head Street Address 4422 22nd Street NW Canton, OH 44708-1574 Office Phone: 330-477-8529
  8. My State Farm doesn't have issues with me using the truck, in a non commerical way.
  9. I'll have to look. Just a std group 31 truck battery, Interstate brand. Buddy got me a deal on them back then. When I converted mine from S/P, I too put 4-12v batteries in it thinking I would need them. Not. I left them for the 10 yrs. It likely took 10 yrs to work all four down to the point it sounded weak and needed replaced. Since mine is always in a garage I don't worry that it won't start.
  10. I got 10 yrs out of the last set for my truck. They just started to get slow sounding so I put 2 new ones(I used to run 4). Don't need 4 12v batteries to start a 673. Even the 237 I just put in rolls over nicely with only 2 batteries. I'm thinking they are almost 5 yrs old now? Still going strong. Didn't charge them up over winter either.
  11. Well, all is better........now if I could get that clamp to tighten enough to make it NOT leak. Ugh. I pulled the casting off the engine, used a small hammer to "finesse" the downpipe to fit the taper better. That helped, not totally. Might try some hi temp silicone, as the casting is kinda rough and likely why it leaks. Once I get that done I will get the other fender back on.
  12. Yes. The VIN got me the right part.
  13. Long Hard Ride? Must still have camelback suspension? LOL! I like it. Still has some old school class to it. Not too overboard except for that big Pete visor.
  14. Vals327 a big thank you for getting me the information I needed. The exhaust is now complete.
  15. I posted a question in the fire apparatus forums and Don stepped up with a VIN number for me. My local Mack dealer had the clamp in stock and my exhaust is now assembled. I can't say enough about the people here. From mass confusion to the right part in a matter of a few hours. Thanks guys
  16. Got a couple VIN's to try. Thanks again guys. Ed, I have access to about anything fab wise(lasers, rolls, shears, etc). Just hoped it would be something I could just buy. Well, at least the right one.
  17. Thanks Ed. That is the kind of information I'm trying to get. What/where/when? I figured maybe someone here might look at it and say what it likely would come from. The strange thing is, the bellhousing is for a single disc clutch, so what would that narrow it down to? Did the early 237 come with single disc clutches? Or at least in fire truck application where the weight was limited to just the truck GVW.
  18. Wasn't supplied with the motor. (bag over turbo to keep water out since it was raining the day I got it). I need the clamp to attach the exhaust to downpipe. Note oil dipstick aimed to the rear. Was in a some sort of cabover? Or at least access was limited to the rear?
  19. I'm trying to come up with the right size clamp to fit my turbo downpipe. Only Mack can't help because I don't have a truck serial number. The motor is "suppose" to have come from a fire truck. Does anyone recognize this downpipe? This pipe just slips onto the turbo and is held by a bracket cast into it that bolts to the manifold. Note the pyro fitting, I drilled the old plug out and put a new brass one in til I get a pyro installed. No real part number on it to research. Ive already tried a couple clamps to no avail. Getting frustrated.
  20. I think you should just give it to one of us that don't mind armstrong steering!!! Ooooh, wait, I put air assist on mine last winter. LOL!! That is one GORGEOUS truck. Wow.
  21. Dang mike.......they got near the whole medical dictionary on that prognosis...... Hope you get healed up quick. Buddy I race with got a new left knee back in '06. He joked that if it didn't work well that I would have to come up with a hand clutch set up for his car. Hmm, what about a hand air clutch? Put a motorcycle grip with a handle. Hmmm......we'll get you trucking before you know it.
  22. Ain't been under a new vehicle lately? Ya, not a single grease fitting on them. You know, they are "greased for life"..................HA HA HA.
  23. Typically all those numbers are for is weight ratings. The bigger the number, the heavier the truck. The cabs are basically either a B or L cab. The hood is wide or narrow. Pick one you like and put it on a late model 3/4 ton chassis.
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