Freightrain

You must have a direct box? I have single over triplex(and with old 4.62 gears it would run 65 at 2100 rpm). With 4.10's now it will go 72 mph. I've run it flat on the governor for lots of years going 65 dragging my trailer. The ol 673 didn't really care.

I put about 14 yrs and 50K miles on mine without any A/C. It sure is nice now that it does have it. I put up with it long enough.

Great work so far. I just used one of those EZ Wire harnesses in a 41 Willys project I'm working on. Pretty nice stuff, all marked wires. Only bad was the kit I had to use was the 21 circuit and the fuse panel has NO markings on it. You have to guess what fuse is what. I see you got the more typical GM style fuse panel unit(like 12 circuit?). Much better. I got roped into this project after it was started, so I had to work with what was there. Though as tight as this little car is that little fuse panel fit better then then that big GM style. (notice LOTS of yellow tape to better mark the wires for what they are. Reading that little print gets hard on the eyes) I think you are thinking of Speedway Motors for your parts place in Iowa? They have pretty good catalogs for stuff to build hot rods with. I noticed you have a very similar underdash air unit that I have in my truck. Mine was from Retro Air in Texas. Don't worry, it will FREEZE you out of the cab! Mine works really well and priced right.

I was trying to be tongue-in-cheek about how any item that is used to kill is quickly "banned", well, here in America anyway. Guess that was my poor attempt on Friday at humor. Not that the situation is funny at all. It's sad.

http://www.foxnews.com/world/2016/07/15/at-least-80-dead-18-seriously-injured-in-bastille-day-terror-attack-in-france.html How do you fight this? They were talking on the news this morning about it and the heightened security. What are cops with batons going to do against a truck. Oh, ya, we'll just ban trucks...ya, that will fix it. Ugh. It's tragic anymore. My prayers go out to all.

Most of the late model 5spds need ATF. They run on needle bearing gears and tapered end bearings and the clearances are tight. Anything to thicken it is no good. Unless it is really, really wore out. 15 yrs back I put 1/2 Lucas and 1/2 75w/90 in my triplex. It quieted it down a touch but made it stiff to shift even when warm. I changed it some years back to just gear lube and it shifts easier, though not as easy as I would like. Since I tightened up the rear bearing shim it got a bit quieter even with the lighter lube.

It is a bolt in. Just with a B61 you have to run the 673 water pump and balancer to keep it short enough. Not sure if a B75 has the same problems? If not, then not a worry. I still run the original 673 single disc clutch. Had DW Clutch in Baltimore rebuild it and use an upgraded material(I think it was Fibertuff). Good place, good prices and quick turn around(like 3-4 days). Took a few miles to break it in, then it started biting and holds fine. http://dwclutch.com/

Just put a 237 in my B. Loving it! I skip along the first few gears, then split 4 and 5. I'm only 27K lbs loaded. It moves along well and I'm very careful to keep the RPM over 1500 rpm. Splitting it up a gear usually keeps it at speed other then a big hill might take two gears. My old triplex is pretty loose so I drive it by feel of the shifter. If it starts to feel like it is not liking it, I split up a gear and it smooths out.

Not knowing much, but do the oil lines coming from the block have typical AN fittings(I'm picturing my 673 full flow system)? You could buy a screw on style base and just hook the lines up to it? Should not be too hard to do?

Is that recent? Kinda hard to tell what the reason for it? Doesn't look like it was moved recently looking at the trash around it. Was it in a building fire?

In my opinion, it last longer, so you change it less. BUT it costs twice as much typically so if you change it 1/2 as often it costs the same. If you live in extreme climates I can see it helping, but for the basic general public I don't think it really matters. And mostly you know most people aren't going to spend the extra money for it. They have way more important things to spend in on...........like beer, cigarettes and I phones LOL!

I've met Ken before(last time at York). I see he has Jeff's name on the door(I'm pretty sure it is a joke), as Jeff is from Florida.

Looks like it has an air window on the passenger side? That black box mounted on the door panel?

Ol Sunliner Ford! Cool. The 61 Pontiac ain't bad either. Some air in the tires and they are both ready to "run again".

With all the variations today it is not worth fixing the old cable stuff. I stripped a couple different pencil gears in my triplex and gave up on it. Worked with a member here and made an electronic speedo set up. I machined a reluctor ring and the tailhousing for the pickup. It works great, but not something just anyone can do(unless you have machine shop exp). They now make GPS stuff that is plug/play.

Thanks Jim, I play hell sometimes trying to find my old posts. I gave up on it. Strange I thought it was longer then basically a year ago? BillyT, I held off for a few years til I found a unit that was cost effective. Most of the Vintage air stuff is pretty pricey once you get everything you need. I had contemplated putting a heat/air unit, but my heater is all rebuilt and didn't really want to get rid of it if I didn't have to. Again, pricing all played a part. When someone online somewhere posted a link to this place in Texas I jumped on it. Super people to deal with, though like I said the kit I bought is not longer listed.

Been there. I got my from Retroair.com. It was only $650? They don't offer the same kit anymore and looks like prices are higher now. Fit great, works great. It will freeze you out of the cab. I'm trying to find the link to my install a couple years ago. Here are a couple pictures. Condenser mounted under the bunk with a fan on it.

They need to have an automatic buzzer, like train engineers, that they have to hit every minute or so to keep them "aware" of their surroundings. If you want to ride the highways and NOT drive..........take a bus. Oh wait, they crash too?

Ya, you got the correct ones. It's all rocket science to me too. It has to do with engine rpm and throttle position and that determines how much fuel it allows. It is a real Rube Goldberg kinda thing and I'm not really sure myself. Lord knows the new ones are likely much worse. Some how they work?

I would stay small. I put a 20 circuit in that Willys. WAYYY overkill, but it was already in the car when I started on it. Most kits handle the typical operating systems and I doubt you need more then 10-12 circuits. Heck you have air wipers, so that leaves one out already. Either way, put the headlights on relays(doubt most kits are set up this way--it wasn't in Willys). I took the lo/hi wires and ran them to two relays under the dash and used them to turn them on/off. Then used good heavy wire to the headlights. On my B, I put the relays on the front core support right next to the wire terminals. Even with my std halogen bulbs it would overheat the original headlight switch and make them blink if I turned on the brights. Using the relays I can run my brights without issue.

Very cool find. The ol dog sure looks like it has hard a very hard life since new. But, what construction equipment hasn't? Other then Tom(OT), I can't say I've seen many mixer trucks in running condition at least at any shows I've been to.` The only BIG B I always remember is that red/silver wrecker from NY area(saw it at Syracuse in '03). That thing was HUGE! and very well restored.

I would say as long as the tapers are the same and you can get the right length bar, use it. I wonder if there is anything you could change out(like steering arm on the spindle) to get 517 ends to fit?

Likely west coast logging companies using lightweight alum trucks for hauling logs out of the woods. Well, ya, it is going to fail with the brittle aluminum they had back then. Those cast aluminum brackets and such.

I run a Unilite module(so many hate those too) in the race car with 6AL. When I dynoed this last motor(first time ever for me) we had ignition issues and the shop was jabbing me about that Unilite module so I bought a new one and it still messed up. They gave me more grief. OH, come to find out it was the dyno wiring!!! Seems a weatherpack plug was "loose" and causing all the problems. Never got any reprieve for the unilite though. Everything else has points in it! LOL!!

I saw that on TODAY this morning. I guess that is natural selection? If you are crazy(dumb) enough to rely on your car to keep you safe(ie: drive for you) then you get what you get. I'm sorry for the family and friends, but I don't care I am just smart enough to NOT rely on my car to drive, yet. Reminds me of the stories from way back, someone driving a camper, put it on cruise control and got up to use the bathroom and crash. Yup, here's your sign.