Freightrain

Well, I found a 1/4" T that I could thread into the pump, it gave me two ports. One for fuel in and one for gauge. I can use 1/4" plug to seal it off when not needed. I started the truck, it runs at about 15# at idle. Any fluctuation of RPM does not really make it move a lb or so. Good? Bad or Ugly? I tried to remove the check valve. Wow, that's been in there for 40 sum years and wasn't coming off without a fight. I gave up on it for now, will wait to see if anything else comes up before trying to unscrew that from the pump. I pulled two of the check valves from the fuel pump(the top two-easiest to get to). Look okay, springs intact. Surfaces are smooth and flat.

Picked up a gauge at Summit yesterday and a nylon tubing kit to hook it up. Just need to dig through my fittings box to hopefully have enough to attach it? Hope to get into it Friday night, as I have to leave Saturday morning!! Ugh. Got a 2 hr drive, I'm keeping my fingers crossed........

What about an angled pearl handle turned forward? Or just an 45* arm to put the red ball on. That might move it forward enough to give your elbow some room.

Cab looks pretty solid. Hope it gets put back together someday.

Are those little check valves interchangeable? Could I use the one off my 673 or are they rated at different pressures? Are they typically available new, easily? I have a VIN from a firetruck or just use the pump number?

I'll check all the fittings.

Just as a side note, I have a big water separator spin on filter next to the drivers tank, then the typical original secondary(canister) up at the pump. Doubt anything could get very far up the line with it set up this way.

Interesting. I know the hand pump was dried up when I got the motor. I had to get it working(tear down/lube up) to prime the system to test run it. I had the supply pump apart and saw the 3-4? check valves(forget exactly). Might check those also. Might be just weak enough that under a heavy draw it is not pushing enough fuel. Like I said, around town is fine. I don't think it is the pickup tube as it won't do it just sitting or driving around town. Still like to put a gauge on it to see. I know autometer offer electronic high pressure gauges. Not sure if the pulsing will make them hard to read(digital readout), thus a liquid filled mechanical would be better. They offer an isolator kit for car fuel pressure, but likely not rated to 100 psi.

Thanks for the ideas Glenn and Fred. The vents are easy, so I'll check those first. Yes, it drops boost as it looses power. Doubt it is air cleaner freezing up as it has been plenty warm outside yet. I will get a gauge and see what happens. It is kinda random and would have to take a long drive to hope to have it repeat. I might look into getting an electric version so I can mount the gauge permanently in the cab? That overflow/check valve, is that the little brass fitting between pump and return line to tank? Maybe it is returning more then it should? Loosing fuel and power.

Intake is not closing up. It is steel pipe with silicone connectors. The motor has run strong with no issues at all most of the summer. Just started the loss power about a month ago. The lines from the tank to filters and then injection pump are all existing, but replaced them a few years ago so I know they are not damaged. I don't think size is an issue as it ran fine up to this point. If you lift off the pedal, then push again it doesn't really change, but by that time it would usually start to take off again anyway. It gives the sensation of no fuel. With the window down, you can just about here it "chug" as it slows down, then it revives and sounds strong again.

I'm remember the fuzzbuster when it was just a plain box with a big red light on it. That one must be one of the upgraded versions? LOL!!

Well, okay. Something is still awry. New turbo, works fine. I readjusted the linkage to get a better WOT on the pump. Second trip out this past weekend over to Pittsburgh again(just out past Watts). Trip over was fine. Heading home Sunday evening I got about 1/2 way across the Pike and it suddenly started the "dropping power/boost" issue. This seemed a bit worse then a month ago. Seems the longer grades it would suddenly drop boost/loose power, then after a couple seconds come back. It would repeat this randomly mostly on hills not so much on level ground. But I wasn't into the power either. It made it home okay, just lost speed on the hills. Once I got off the highway it was fine in town. Pulled up to speed easily and never hesitated. Now, I threw a set of filters on it today just because. They were a couple years old, but with the limited mileage they were far from used up. I cut them both apart and neither had gunk/sludge in them. Fairly clean looking pleats. Secondly, I've noticed another issue this summer. When letting off power to shift, the rpm drops like it should, but then as it gets to idle will just surge ever so slightly. I have had to adjust my shift timing as typically it screws up my main box shifting. Compound not so much as it doesn't take as much rpm drop to get into gear. The return spring on the pump arm is STIFF. No way that it is not pulling it back tight. I've readjusted the pedal a couple times to make sure everything is just right. It does not appear to be holding the throttle up any. I took it for a quick spin tonight after the filter change and it pulls fine. I get it into 5th lo and lean into it and it goes up to 15# and just pulls away from traffic easily(kinda fun to do actually as you know the cars aren't expecting it). I know I won't really see any difference til Saturday when I head out on the road again. I was wondering, could the governor be an issue? Could something in the pump be acting up? Or is it just fuel related? I don't have a pressure gauge and I know that would be a good think to have right now but don't have time to get anything installed and run into the cab by Friday night. Pretty much all the fuel lines are within a few years old so I can't see that being an issue. Don't think the fuel pickup in the tank is a problem as the last trip is was acting up going over and there was more fuel them coming home. It only seems like it happens under extended load, not short bursts. I only have a couple more trips this year then I can tear into it if need be.

I've done a few repairs. If the hole is large enough(and through) make sure you have a backer behind it or the resin/fiber will just sink through. Few layers of heavy tape should do the trick. You'll have to dress it up on the back when done. Blend it out and rough it up so the resin has plenty to bite into. Make sure to grind out any cracks. More to fill is better then burying a crack underneath. You have to work fast with the resin as it starts to get stiff in a few minutes. Have it all ready, then go quickly. My latest work when someone smacked the bumper on the race car with a golf cart:

Nice work. Love those stripes. I am working on a hot rod and the painter is also there. He works on everything from daily scrapes up to Ferrari restorations. I hear all the hub bub about painting today and the technology. I'm used to a can of Enamel, some hardner and a spray gun! It is crazy today. I always enjoyed laying down paint. Prep work, not so much!

PID Reunion. Gassers, slingshots, Funny cars, and of course our stick shift group is running elims both days. http://www.typicalgearheads.com/keystoneracewaypark/images/Flyers/2016 Nostalgia Flyer.pdf

Looking good. That's the right tool for the job. Neat Power Wagon too. Some sort of crane set up? That could be neat to play with?

Happy you got it out and drove it. Just fair warning that you may find that you don't care for it after taking a trip with a trailer on it. That big pipe will really drone badly, no matter how tall. It's the resonance, like a big gong. Dynamat around the inside of the cab will help drastically. Just the sheet I put on the firewall really helped mine. I put some on the inside of the doors to help with the tin can sound when you close them.

6" pipes? Do you have any kind of muffler on it? I know the drone(large diameter pipe) will wear on you quickly. I ran a single 5" pipe many years ago with my Dynomax muffler under the cab. One trip, one hour away and I was holding my ears on the way home. It was horrible, no matter how cool it looked. I bought a stock muffler and tried that. Even that was horrible and on long trips I was getting headaches. I quickly put the Dynomax back under the cab and a single 4" stack. That was bearable.

Sat Oct 3rd? I think you mean the 1st. Like to make it someday, but have a race that day.

I'll be at Pittsburgh raceway this coming weekend if you want to check the truck out. I'm coming over Friday afternoon, be there til Sunday evening. Not hard to find. My car is easy to spot also:

Wow, that sounds like quite the set up. Thus the reason I run a mech tach, no two step, no shift light, just me, three pedals and a shifter LOL!!

LOL!! Did ya catch on to that LOL!!!! Ya, it is kinda fun to drive now. Sounds good, runs good. My buddy made reference to the fact he has time now and will be starting to work on pieces to fix the bunk. Yea! I really hate the way the back of the truck looks with that wood on over the opening. But, what was I gunno do?

Have you thought of using "the grid"? I was talking the other weekend with a buddy that runs one in his supercharged(blow thru) mustang. Really cool piece with LOTS of tunability. He takes out timing in one cylinder to help with detonation and hurting a rod bearing.

Seems pretty happy. It actually doesn't rattle as much as it used to. Strange? Though after seeing so many post with much larger engines in from of one of these I'm a bit more relaxed about its longevity.

Are the brakes caged so you can spin the yoke and count the revolutions?