Freightrain

Ain't been under a new vehicle lately? Ya, not a single grease fitting on them. You know, they are "greased for life"..................HA HA HA.

Typically all those numbers are for is weight ratings. The bigger the number, the heavier the truck. The cabs are basically either a B or L cab. The hood is wide or narrow. Pick one you like and put it on a late model 3/4 ton chassis.

Good luck finding one with oil fittings. Just bought a replacement fan motor for a pedestal fan here at work> Ouch....$236. Part number 3m504 at grainger.

Nice find. When you get it running, I would just run it and enjoy it. Granted mine is a 673, but I lost two head bolts in 15 yrs or running it all summer pulling my race trailer around 3 states. It always got me home, even it was "leaking" a bit. They are pretty sturdy engines, even if they have a few weak points. They likely will always get you back home.

This is always a very touchy subject. You best bet is research your state laws online. If you call the state, you'll likely get a different answer from each person you talk to. Do you have historical tags in Wisc? That is usually the best bet in getting around it.

Eddy gave me a small can of yellow to use in my Cub cadet last summer at York. I've yet to get around to it for some reason?

Thanks Robert for the link. Looking at the dimensions, the one I have is pretty close to what I need. The "C" dimension hits the casting(on the turbo side) before it hits the pipe on the other side. I think the biggest issue is the flange diameter of the pipe I'm using is just small enough that it won't fit up into the V enough to clamp tight. Thus I'm going to thicken the width just about 1/16" to get the clamp to tighten up on it. Going to cut a ring from some sheet metal, just enough to fit the flange area. I looked at BT10494, it is just a touch thinner at the "B" dimension. Not sure if that would help or not?

I put POR15 on my chassis. Yup, don't look so shiny these days but it won't ever rust. You can beat it with a hammer and not chip it.

I just put a pair of Yokohama's on the front of my truck last spring. Ya, the price went up from 14 yrs ago when I bought them. Had $800 in the pair mounted. I got all six mounted in 2003 for $1800 and that included used rims. Even with just being a "toy", I still like to keep a "brand name" tire on it. Piece of mind I suppose.

Here is what I bought. Stupid phone has it sideways. I brought the pipe to work. Going to use the new plasma cutter to make a ring to thicken the flange.

Wooster huh? Yup, pass'n through my back yard again and ya didn't even toot the horn. I see how ya are..........LOL!! Wooster Brush has been a very long time customer and I run down there on occasion.

If I put an intercooler on it, I'll put a scoop on it.

Well, the first clamp I got from Cross truck was too big(5"), so I returned it for a 4". It is a narrow groove and would not get around the big cast iron pipe. They didn't have a wide version so I went to Mack. They couldn't come up with a real part number(since I didn't serial number from the truck it came from) so he got a few from the back and I picked one. It sorta fits but won't grab the pipe side enough. It might be the downpipe I bought is too small on the clamp area for the clamp to grab it tight. I am going to check the part number I bought and compare Jim's number. All else fails I'm going to just modify the pipe side and make a "spacer" to thicken it up and give the clamp something to hold onto. We'll see. The clamps are made by Breeze that I bought. Glad to hear the oil pressure is not out of line. I don't think I will worry about changing the gauge, yet. Like I said when it warms up it stays around 60# or so when I rev it up.

WTF......can't I buy V clamp for my exhaust?? No one has a clue along with Mack dealer. Got a wide groove version but it wont grab my downpipe enough. I tried massaging the clamp but I think I will have to add some wire to the pipe side to get it big enough to tighten it. Ugh. Did get the oil changed. 6.5 gal to the full mark. It now pegs the 100# gauge if you give it some throttle when cold. I know it was 60# hot the other night when I got some heat into it, like 160*. 40# at idle hot. She has a pretty good lope when cold. Really rocks the truck. Smoke? It fogs the neighborhood. It does clean up when it warms up some. Did move it a bit back and forth so I know the clutch works. Did get some fab work done on the bunk replacement parts. The lower ledge is built. Now for the corner piece. Get it put in and then a door. 3 wks til I got to leave!!

I may come up with something and just make it myself I just haven't got to that point yet. Once I get the nose bolted back on it I will have a better idea what I need to have to make it fit. Kevin I will let you know. Thanks.

Before I go building something I wonder if someone might have the plastic molded tube that turns 180* to hook the turbo up to the air cleaner? Something along these lines: I know the turbo is 3 1/2" diameter. My air cleaner pipe in the firewall is 4". I know it is kinda tight in a B model so this might not even work. I don't have the fenders back on the truck yet so I can't "see" what I have to work with yet. I hope to get them bolted on this weekend. Found a better pic: I suppose I could made the 180*, just need the flex piping and support/heat shield.

Well what I've been hearing is that isn't as easy as it seems. Maybe not? Dual disc clutch, deeper bellhousing, change in clutch linkage, etc? I think I'll just let it go for now(and likely for a longgg time).

That is likely from the Dick Best collection. He is from that area and I'm thinking I remember seeing it years back when I used to go to his place for his summer party.

Yes, full air pressure. The exhaust from the motor has a little "muffler" on it. I removed mine as that is also a restriction for air flow. It is NOT like you will ever hear the air wooshing out of it while driving a B model!!!!!

Yup, air. They can be finicky, but once you have the system good they work fine. Mine will near throw the blades off it runs so fast. The dash control will usually have a bad o-ring, which means it leaks air. Beyond that there isn't much to it. The wiper motor itself might need some cleaning and attention, along with the air lines to it. They swell up or get hard and plug up and won't pass enough air to make them move. The motor is easy to remove off the fire wall. Note which hose goes where so you can assemble it again. I pulled mine apart and cleaned the valving inside and put it back on with some new supply lines. Wow, what a difference.

I know it is a very, very tight fit back in that collar. You have to remove the brass drain valve to get it out of there. Too much paint and it won't slide through. I ran it long enough to get the temp gauge to start to rise. Being it was only mid 30's the paper I put in front of the radiator helped. I had fogged the neighbors for long enough and shut it down.

Well, radiator is hooked up so I fired it off. Still no exhaust, but that is next on the list. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CK_Ukv3wr88 Gotta chuckle at the black smoke. I couldn't really razz on it hard as it would blow my drier vent hose off. I know these old motors would block the sun back in the day.

I wonder if a 237 set up would bolt on. Mine was unique due to lack of cooler and turbo. Yours should be easier since it likely looks like this.

Top of the water manifold and back into the water pump. Just remove plugs and hook up hoses.