Freightrain

Hmmm, interesting Paul. Never had one or installed one before so I'm out in left field on that. Just know what I have heard, but I know how that goes. I wonder why the module fails with a reduced input voltage? You would think it would be the other way around? I've wanted to get a boost retard MSD for my blower car, but just don't want to spend the money! For what little driving I do with it anymore and the fact I don't really beat on it as I don't want to find out what those 1968 cast pistons are made of!

Had to laugh when the V8 died and they found out the updated ignition failed(likely a Pertronix?). People give me grief when they find out my blown 390 still runs a stock, 1964 single point distributor. Goes to 6K rpm without issue. I've wanted to upgrade the ignition but have seen enough of those conversion fail that I figure just leave the points in it. Oh, someday I upgrade it to something. Local family of boys live/breathe AMC(don't ever call it "almost a chevy" in their presence). Their gremlin does go in the 8's with a super built 401 sumthin or other and a dash of N2O. Street car. It can't weigh more then an empty can of tomato soup. I know how flimsy those cars are.

Just went through this with a couple local friends lately. Both turned a few flats on the nut and were pleasantly surprised with the increase.

Yup. Still waiting for some time to make my own. Ya, right after I get the bunk fixed...LOL!!!

Can't recall exactly how many flats I turned it but started with a couple, then thought if that is good a couple more won't hurt. Not sure if it ended up 1 full turn or what. It ran well, bob-tailing it would run away from traffic starting at a light. You can hear the snap when you crack the throttle. Once I turned it back down you could hear the "laziness" in the throttle. It was not like adding 100 hp, but it surely helps when pulling a load. Even the 1/2 turn will be noticeable. Ugh, pulling a gooseneck with a gasser. Pure torture(to the wallet). I haven't done that since 1996 with my new F350/460ci. 7 mpg pulling my race trailer. The 2000 PSD got 11 mpg. The "new" 237 gets 9 mpg.

Ugh, sounds like quite a trip. Glad you made it back home okay. Let me tell you about hydroplaning with good tires. Ugh, if you recall my incident last year going to York. Pucker factor: 100.

Jeezus............rub your belly and tap your head and PRESTO it is in Reverse. WTH???? Why do they make it SOOOOOOOOOOOO freak'n complicated. Does Rube Goldberg work there? Their fix: Dealers will be able to load the software into the vehicles, and it will automatically shift the cars into park if the driver's door opens while the engine is running. Have you EVER had to hold a door open to aide in parking or backing up to something? Guess that is out of the question now. Thanks.

Ya, back then I was "racing" it when the diesel drags came to town. Shortly after diesel went to $4/gal and getting 4 mpg wasn't cut'n it! I rolled the power back and got 8 mpg and just put up with the drop in power. I'm sure after it was turned up it went from 187 hp to 190 hp(at least). LOL!!

^^^I read a story about Bob Chandler and Bigfoot. Anyone remember the movie "Take this job and shove it"? They used Bigfoot in many scenes. The director had them basically destroying the truck. That is until Bob basically told them "NO" and demanded he wanted control over who drove it and what they did with it. The ending scene where it goes through the guard shack? Yup, that was Bob driving it(with beard shaved off because actor Robert Hays didn't have beard).

Yup, the two nuts hold the arm that controls fuel. Moving one then tighten the other back up against arm. I really cranked mine up about 14 yrs ago. Ran really well, got HORRIBLE mileage. I turned it back down and doubled the mileage(back to 8 mpg).

I have a couple others but never got them downloaded.

Unlike a typical car/pickup tie rod end, they use different thread pitches to allow lengthening/shortening the rod by just twisting it. Unlike a car where they are left and right handed. Strange, but it works. I went through this about 5 yrs ago with my truck. Lucky mine are still available, but it is the larger 517 axle.

Ya, I had ear plugs in the truck 14 yr ago. Sadly the noise was worse with the stock muffler on it. It would just drone you to death on the highway. I'm just glad I got the Dynamat put on the firewall, that help tremendously. That and the turbo taking the bark out of the exhaust. It was always louder with the windows down, but not anymore. The guys I see with those big 8" pipes just roaring down the highway....Ugh, ya that is just too much bellow for me. I like to hear it, but not like that. My 4" pipes are just perfect.

Sure it is cleaner air overall, but I agree with the volume being drawn by the engine I bet it is quite the vacuum inside that air intake tube. Here is a little inside video from the dinner cruise during out show last weekend. Using my sound meter I get a steady 92 db inside the cab with either the windows open or closed. Quite a bit lower then the old motor. I'm pretty sure it was over 100+ db and really bad with the windows down.

My return spring was missing on my throw out arm when I pulled mine apart. I did some measuring and came up with a spring at the local hardware just like the ones for the hood latches. Maybe not the perfect one, but by golly it was better then the complete lack of one. It was actually starting to wear on the TOB levers from the bearing just rattling on against the cast fingers for the last 50 yrs? This is the one inside the bellhousing that pulls the bearing tight against the arm. The latches actually do have a small oil hole in the top end. I think that is where I squirted oil years ago since I didn't have to take them off to pour it with the latch upside down. Though too much oil/grease and it will run down the fender when it gets hot outside.

I know one of the original ones is pretty tight. This rebuilt version is a bit softer. It holds the hood, but not as tight. If you have good ones, I'd soak them in oil to keep the spring from rusting to pieces. I know I did that years ago, but over time and lots of water it gets dry. I tried to pack a bit of grease into it before I welded it together in hopes to keep it lubricated.

Well, got a few trips under the belt. Seems to be running well. I did notice an oil leak, but it's coming from the air compressor inlet. Seems I've got some worn rings/broken rings/etc. My guess is while unloaded it is pumping oil back out the inlet screen and it is running down the outside. Guess I might have to pull the compressor from my 673(as it was rebuild) and switch them over. It makes good air but I don't want to deal with the slobbering. I don't really recall my other motor doing this but it had so many leaks it was hard to tell since everything was damp. This engine had the air inlet running to the air cleaner but I switched it to the little air breather box set up from my old 673. Maybe if I put a tube running up to the air cleaner pipe it will contain the oil? Or it will just make a mess inside my intake pipe?(most likely). I'm still trying to get a road video made, just having a hard time setting it up before I go somewhere.

I suppose you could screw it on? But since you have to weld the body back together it is not that big of deal to put a dot on the top of the washer. That is unless you can get the end of the tube to unscrew?

Very nice work. Here's one for you. My mother is 87 this year. She just took up drawing about 6-8 yrs ago. She is quite impressive and didn't realize she had it in her. She should have started years ago. She started with color but her eyes are getting bad now and had to go to just black/white. She'd done cars, houses, pets, people. It's a good thing as it keeps her active.

Of course.........priorities, priorities..........

We have car cruises coming out the ying yang from May to Oct. Any place you look, even during the week, has some kind of cruise in. I haven't been to one in a very long time, just lost interest in sitting in a parking lot. Heck I hardly even drive the hot rods anymore...........man does that make me old? Or do I just feel old? Ugh. I was at Milan, Michigan last weekend for the Reunion race, our group runs in it.

Now that it has been a few weeks and I've used it, I can feel a slight difference in tension compared to an original. I needed to find a STIFFER spring for the next ones. Likely just a larger wire diameter. I think I used a .047 wire. I felt a .062 but it seemed too stiff. I think it would be a tighter latch and likely use one on the next latch I rebuild. Mike, only problem is we only have weather that is bearable for about 3 months a year....and it ain't around December!!!

Nice. Looks like it can just peg that tach at will without breaking a sweat. Sounds good.

Unfortunately we don't have a TK to have a party at. I can guarantee it won't ever be called Ash-mud-land like some other show I've heard stories about. LOL!!

I didn't change the rubber portion, so mine just slipped on/off real easy like. I was surprised as I've heard they get beat up and loose. I was pleasantly surprised when mine was in nice shape. I just changed the front hub due to the 237 having a different set up then the 673. I had to put my 673 hub/balancer on the 237. I didn't heat the mount, only the hub for the balancer. Like I said, don't over heat it as it could melt the rubber seal/mount after it soaks in. The old manual I have says don't use a torch.