Freightrain

Weren't these Harry's? Can't say his last name off the top of my head.

I'm betting it is a rough ridin' sum gum and likely why no one ever has one at shows(that they actually drove there).

Must be a bad leak. The compressor on the truck doesn't have enough CFM to make enough pressure to make enough noise to find it. Like mentioned, put some shop air in the tank and see where it makes noise. Might be the main line off the compressor that blew?

I was curious about that Glenn. I know on my FE engines the rocker shafts have to be rotated a specific way or they don't oil the rocker properly and they sqeak(and then wear out if you don't fix it). I bought my first 428 30 yrs ago with this issue and figured it out. I'm going to pull the shafts and see where the oil holes are at on the shafts. Not sure if the book shows location or not? I know the holes should be on the bottom side of the shaft if like a Ford motor. That is the wear side. I did clean them up before putting the top end back on. Don't recall rotating the shafts, but it is a possibility. Better to check now. Only two on the front head are dripping oil on the valve stems. Rear, nothing. I only added some oil to the filters when I screwed them on. Haven't added any other oil, it was near full and no water in it(drained some oil to see). I'll be changing it once I get it in the truck(or just before while on the ground). I did oil the tips/rockers and the like before assembly so it wouldn't be completely dry on start up.

Replaced them with new.

OK question for the day: how much oil do the rockers pump? Even after a few minutes of running it only has a couple valve tips with oil on them. The rest are dry. The rocker shafts are wet along with the pushrod cups. Just concerned as it is making 80 psi right now because it is so cold. It should be pouring out somewhere. I've had them off. Should I pull the rockers again and make sure the oil holes are clear. I washed them in parts washer but didn't tear them apart.

Strangely enough you would think they would stick "open"(not want to latch), not closed? That's kinds scary. I'm guessing they would not open from the outside either? that leads me to believe it is the latch itself, not the handle part. Really odd they both stuck.

I'd think some frost might have something to do with it also? I've had my compressor governor freeze up after I pull it outside in the winter and shut it off. Won't build air when I restart it. Once it heat soaks it works fine again. Feel lucky you are young enough to get out the window LOL!!

I saw it wed evening when I got there. Then Thurs morning someone was unloading it. That is when I talked to the buyer and they said it was already sold. I told them I was looking for something to replace my now wrecked bunk(from the day before).

Looking at the pics now I realize I watched that bunk get unloaded at York. Didn't know it was yours.

Thanks Jim. I'm stoked....especially when I got the turbo whistling.

It RUNS!!!!! Now if I could link it with my phone. YouTube "59mack" and it is there. Took a couple tries. Used a heat gun to warm the intake up and a couple small shots of ether and it fired off. Really excited. Surprisingly the motor runs smooth and didn't want to walk around on the floor. Air starter works but only after I put enough air lines on it to be strong enough to spin it. Now to start tearing truck down.

Had the cover off the gov. and the pump. Had a couple sticky plungers(which I freed up). Everything seems to move fine. I do have a thick book(manual) to cover turbo if things did awry(I wish thinking ahead). I'm only using enough fuel to barely start it the first time. Once it "starts" I will stick the line back in my bucket of fuel. Likely tomorrow I will pull starter from truck to start it. If it runs fine I will be pulling truck apart anyway.

Well it is all in one piece now. Everything is bolted on. The primer pump was not working so I had to do a little finesse with it. Finally got fuel returning to my jug. Like is good. Only hiccup is I don't have a big enough air line to the starter to make it run fast enough to start it. Ugh. Either buy a 1" line or pull electric starter from truck and wire it up. Time with tell.

Yes it has 1" drain line. That is getting replaced also. The feed line is about #8? 1/2" ID.

The original line was a very heavy hydraulic line with crimp ends. Can I use std braided line? Can't really see a reason not to but I figure I would ask.

If you read the manual for your F450(we have one) it states that when you fill the tires you are suppose to hook a long line and stay a specific distance from the tire while inflating. It was near 20 yrs ago I was helping my buddy change some 22.5's out on his trailer. Doing it all manually. We started on one as one was filling up. Suddenly.....BOOM!!!.........the sidewall went out of the tire we just mounted. Lucky we were away from it, it was laying on the ground. Had a bit of ringing in my ear for a while, but we survived.

Ya, then if you put a button on the dash, you'll need to wire in a separate solenoid(like a Ford has) for the button to activate. I remember my '66 Cub cadet tractor had one of those buttons on it. It was not foot operated, it was on the dash and you used your hand. It would leave marks in the palm of my hand from pushing it in. I hated that thing!!! Lucky my '72 Cub has a key switch! Looked like this:

Was thinking that too Paul. Have never seen a tach in a gas powered Mack. I'm not familiar with how those are wired, but that floor button is a pretty stout piece. Do they have a starter solenoid that it connects to(like a typical set up)? Or does it send power directly to starter motor? So if you wanted to use a small button on the dash you would have to include a separate solenoid.

Wonder if it is like the typical 40's car/truck. You pushed on the gas with your heel and "toed" the starter button?

Looks to be a std B61 grille/front end.

Found this with a quick google search: http://www.bostonherald.com/news/local_coverage/2015/12/nh_man_22_dies_when_tire_explodes_at_sears_in_salem I'm guessing it was likely a "big" truck tire, like for a 4x4 or dually? Not really a "truck" tire in the sense we think of. I don't think a Sears would handle anything bigger then that? Might be wrong?

You will likely never know if they are hooked up and working or not there at all. I suppose if you actually loaded the front axle really heavy then they might actually help control the spring. With the minimal weight up front, the springs never moves enough to worry about it.

Well, the 3/4" bolts are still a "?". Not sure why it was done and likely not an issue you will run into. These custom studs are only for test running the motor. Period. When I go to put the motor in the truck, I will then drill my original flywheel to 3/4" holes and get new 3/4"-16 hardened bolts. My whole point was to NOT ruin this flywheel. I'd like to be able to sell it off and not have it bastardized with 3/4" holes and not fit someones motor.

Yes, mine 4.10 in OD is about 72 mph. Take about 6-7 mph out for Direct and you are only in the 65 mph range. Fine if you don't plan on any long distance trips on the highway. Mine was 4.62 with OD it was still only 65 mph. Now I can run about 65 mph at 1800 rpm. I have 22.5 rubber. If you have enough granny gear, go 3.90?